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Pompous Rhombus posted:I keep an eye on my local CL (mostly to torture myself) back in the US, and I think any pre-08 KLR650 I've seen under $2500 has either over 30,000 miles on it or needs wear items replaced. Is that just a Florida thing, or is everyone really leaving like $800-$1000 of haggle room? I bought an '01 KLR650 with 30,000 miles on it. I sold it two years later with 35,000 and change miles. The only things that needed replacing were the carb diaphragm and the fuel petcock. Point is, 30K isn't bad.
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May 16, 2014 05:50
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sklnd posted:Have any of you fine KLR folks installed a choke cable eliminator? I had a plunger on the side of my carb on my KLR back when I had one. It usually started up just fine, rarely had to choke it. I had done a lot of work to mine. Rejetted the carb, airbox mods, 2 brothers pipe with fmf header, and a more aggressive set of cams. I also had the big IMS 7 gallon tank. It took some getting used to, to reach under the big lobes of the IMS tank to get to the plunger when needed, but it was still pretty easy to use.
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May 18, 2014 03:22
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OSU_Matthew posted:Nice! I really love the look of the black KLRs--very sleek! You should peel off some of the decals and swap in the KLR BMW logo sticker for subtlety. for sale posted:By the way dead pressed you got like the best color scheme of all of the gen 2 models for a good price, good job dude. I actually like the Kawasaki green, but I'm satisfied completely with the black. It does look really good in person; I'm getting a lot of compliments from coworkers, etc. I'm really blown away by this bike, plenty of power, really comfortable, can't ask for too much more from a $3k bike.
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May 19, 2014 22:01
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OSU_Matthew posted:Nice! I really love the look of the black KLRs--very sleek! You should peel off some of the decals and swap in the KLR BMW logo sticker for subtlety. 
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May 20, 2014 02:31
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OSU_Matthew posted:KLR BMW logo sticker for subtlety. I feel like this would go well on my Buell with some Truck Nutz.
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May 20, 2014 03:10
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Nice! That's a great look for the bike... I'm not such a fan of the 90's logos plastered all over. Is that the bike your buddy rode over to Baja recently? clutchpuck posted:I feel like this would go well on my Buell with some Truck Nutz. Luckily for you, a sizeable contingent of Harley owners seem to agree.  IHatePancakes posted:I also had the big IMS 7 gallon tank. It took some getting used to, to reach under the big lobes of the IMS tank to get to the plunger when needed, but it was still pretty easy to use. How do you like the IMS tank? A couple people I went riding with recently suggested I go that route instead of crash bars, since it's about the same price and wraps over the radiator to protect it.
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May 20, 2014 17:33
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OSU_Matthew posted:How do you like the IMS tank? A couple people I went riding with recently suggested I go that route instead of crash bars, since it's about the same price and wraps over the radiator to protect it. It worked great, just had terrible luck with mine. First one IMS sent leaked from the get go. Get the replacement in, have it for 2 days then I get hit and go down hard on the right side, sliding and abrading a hole in the side, at the bottom of the lobe naturally. I buy another one to replace it, and it worked great. I guess you can say it did its job in protecting the bike, but I had some issues with quality with the first one. The replacement ones I had to specifically ask and make sure they pressure tested them to ensure that they were leak proof. They offer some protection, but the plastic is not as strong as you think. Asphalt or even rubbing up hard on trees I think they would have issues. If I had another KLR, I would go another route if I wanted more protection. For long cruising days, or just having the extra distance between fill ups was nice. Offroad, carrying all the extra fuel just made the bike even more top heavy. If you take it offroad, running it at half capacity helped some. In short, the IMS tank offers extra fuel capacity for slightly decreased off road maneuverability. The tanks also have build quality problems due to the nature of making them. And don't slide them doing 35 on asphalt.
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May 21, 2014 05:00
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I read on ADVrider that some people experienced the IMS tanks eroding and weakening after a while because of the gas eating at the plastic. I don't know how true this is since it sounds like a dumb design decision for a gas tank, but it's made me wary on investing in one even though I like the idea. That sucks that you're on your third (second bought) tank already by the way, those things aren't cheap! for sale fucked around with this message at 08:13 on May 21, 2014 |
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May 21, 2014 08:11
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Thanks! That's good to know... I thought it seemed like a wonky idea to rely on the gas tank for radiator protection. I'll probably wind up buying a set of these and a metal skid plate instead, since they seem to be the cheapest thing I can find. Though speaking of the radiator, I finally got around to pulling the tank and troubleshooting mine last night. Unfortunately it wound up being the fan motor was completely boogered. I was surprised at how expensive those suckers are, though I guess the consensus is that ninja fan motors are the same specs and substantially cheaper. Fortunately I lucked out and found a used '08 take-off for ~40$.
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May 21, 2014 15:44
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Hey guys So I'm looking to take my KLR off road. I live in BC and I'm thinking the Squamish area. New to dirtbiking though I did dirt bike in Guatemala and loved it. Anything I need to know to prep my KLR 650? Get proper gear of course. As for tires, I did some googling and there are so many choices that I was hoping for some preferences here. I'm not mechanically inclined, so I was hoping for tires that I could ride on street and off road. I also live in Vancouver so it rains a lot. Do I need to make any modifications to protect my oil drain for my KLR in case I hit something? I'm leaning towards the Kenda k270 tires front and back? Thanks
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May 26, 2014 06:58
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I've heard good things about Kendas. Go for it. If you're planning to go offroading once in a blue moon, you might be better served with less aggressive tires, but that's a decision only you can make. I don't know anything about BC or the Squamish area. How serious do you plan to be offroad? I've dragged my stock KLR through some pretty gnarly stuff -- muddy trails, lots of vegetation, over/through some shrubs -- with no issue. If you're going to be bottoming out on boulders, that's another issue.
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May 26, 2014 07:08
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Safety Dance posted:I've heard good things about Kendas. Go for it. If you're planning to go offroading once in a blue moon, you might be better served with less aggressive tires, but that's a decision only you can make. I don't know anything about BC or the Squamish area. Not serious for off roading because I'm going to go out by myself and learn on my own so I'm gonna slowly ease into it. I think I will ride my KLR stock. At the same time, I don't want to take a spill if I can help it. What kind of less aggressive tires would you recommend if not Kendas? Thanks
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May 26, 2014 09:26
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OSU_Matthew posted:Nice! That's a great look for the bike... I'm not such a fan of the 90's logos plastered all over. Is that the bike your buddy rode over to Baja recently? It is the same one. And at. 54 years old he's been a fan of the 90's logos since they were new ha ha. We're both looking at KTM. 990's though for a barely planned trip this fall with no real destination or timeline.
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May 26, 2014 14:41
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dogpower posted:Hey guys If you've dirtbiked before, then you've probably got a good idea. I would check ADVrider and see if there's a local riding group you can go out with. It's a heavy bike, and it's nice to have the experience/trails knowledge/someone else to pick it up off you, because it's too much when you're worn out. Aggressive tires are great... if you care about your plastics, pick up crash bars and a metal skid plate instead of the stock plastic one. I've cracked mine and it doesn't take much to bottom out on the engine case. Also lighten it up however you can. Lowering the psi on your tires down to 16 or something helps too. Otherwise general stuff like riding on the pegs helps. Maybe this is bad advice, but it helps me get up some bad hills when being mired at the bottom, but popping your clutch makes a difference in getting the momentum going.
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May 26, 2014 15:32
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dogpower posted:What kind of less aggressive tires would you recommend if not Kendas? Avon Distenzias, maybe. The problem with aggressive dirt tires is that they will wear down really quickly if you're riding on the road.
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May 26, 2014 16:35
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Safety Dance posted:Avon Distenzias, maybe. The problem with aggressive dirt tires is that they will wear down really quickly if you're riding on the road. Cool. Ill probably learn how to switch out my tires when I do go dirt biking because the tires that I have on are currently still pretty fresh.
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May 27, 2014 02:29
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I really loved the Dunlop D606 knobbies that came on my bike. Worked great in all off-road conditions (caveat sand, never ridden on that), and I got several thousand miles of winter riding out of them as well. Rode pretty smooth on the freeway too, though a tad loud.
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May 27, 2014 12:48
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A few friends and I have been running the Kenda Big Blocks. No complaints so far. And I'm coming off of the Pirelli Mt21's.
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May 28, 2014 03:59
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I've never touched the front forks, but after a discussion with a buddy at work, he suggested I should at least have a look down in there and check the oil level and whatnot. Is there a time limit on when various parts (rubber, etc.) of the forks will just wear out? Pretty sure the PO never touched anything on the bike. I know the bike sat for ~5 years untouched in his unheated garage, so that might be a factor. Might be answering my own question here, but am kinda fishing for stories/knowledge on when this stuff might just crap out, or signs that it might be about to.
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Jun 20, 2014 16:23
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I've kinda been wondering about the exact same thing... then my next thought is usually "gently caress it, it's a KLR"
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Jun 20, 2014 23:08
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After work I went to a multidealer shop in the area. Man, nothing fits my large frame (6'4") like the KLR. The KTM adventure bike came close and would maybe be my next move, but the Concourse and VStrom both felt small. The Honda 1300? I sat on felt like a child's thing. I didn't even bother trying the ninjas/cbrs out... Maybe I am destined to this bike forever?
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Jun 20, 2014 23:28
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Dead Pressed posted:After work I went to a multidealer shop in the area. Man, nothing fits my large frame (6'4") like the KLR. The KTM adventure bike came close and would maybe be my next move, but the Concourse and VStrom both felt small. The Honda 1300? I sat on felt like a child's thing. I didn't even bother trying the ninjas/cbrs out... 690 enduro or smc, XR650R, bmw x-country/x-moto.
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Jun 21, 2014 04:18
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OSU_Matthew posted:I've kinda been wondering about the exact same thing... then my next thought is usually "gently caress it, it's a KLR" The 300+ miles I just put on the bike in the last 48 hours puts me squarely in the latter camp. A bird committed suicide at 55 MPH under the huge stock fender and I took the bike on babby's first adventure through mud and 6" standing water over gravel. Weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee! I also realized that it's the rider, not the bike, that has a question of limitations here. Ha. Ally McBeal Wiki fucked around with this message at 02:03 on Jun 23, 2014 |
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Jun 23, 2014 02:01
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Cross posting from good deals thread: $1,500 1989 KLR. I know you guys like that  blue & green color scheme.
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Jul 1, 2014 17:04
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Finally back to update my post from 2 months ago about a klr 650 running problem. In the meantime I've rebuilt the front end and replaced the tires on my zrx1200 and done a ton of work getting a 1982 cx500 on the road. Although not familiar with the klr it was still a cinch to pull the carb and break it down. Until recently all my motorycles have been Inline 4 UJMs which can be murder for carburetor work so this was quite a relief. Why didn't I start with a single cylinder motorcycle 10 years ago and simply enjoy life? Anyhow, the aluminum pilot jet plug was drilled out and the carb was broken down in seconds and then sent home with a friend for sonic cleaning. A few replacements parts have been ordered along with a choke cable and the plastic piece that connects it to the carb, which everyone warned me would break, and it did. I think the problem was discovered before the carbs came apart. The choke cable was seized. It was probably stuck in the full choke position which would explain why it started easily when cold but ran poorly and was impossible to ride. The choke lever was broken in away that it felt like you were getting cable movement but I think it was just the cable ferrule moving around inside the housing. With the choke cable removed it was impossible to pull the metal cable through the sheathing. I tried soaking the cable with wd40 and breaking it free with pliers and a vice but it wouldn't budge. The head broke off before the cable came free so no spare for the parts box. I've never seen a cable seized like that before. No signs of corrosion or being pinched tight either. Research led me to discover some aftermarket brass replacement parts for the choke system but I'm not authorized to purchase them. If it were my bike they would be a no brainer, but so would changing or modifying the exhaust. I was given the go ahead to do the $0.22 mod while the carb was out but I'm not quite sold on it yet.
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Jul 7, 2014 15:19
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Tried tightening my extremely loose throttle cables a few days ago and surprise, my push cable has been in half since I bought the bike. I am learning so much! Ordered some motion pro cables and I really have to reccommend having poo poo on your bike that it's supposed to have, it just feels great. Now to address that plate on the end of the swingarm that I replaced with a blank light switch panel after it rattled off...
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Jul 9, 2014 06:52
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My carb was returned sparkling clean and ready to build. I went ahead with the 22 cent mod by drilling out the slide hole, going 1 3/4 turns out on the pilot screw and adding a single needle shim that was leftover from my Zrx dynojet kit. The affects were immediately noticeable. Snappier throttle and smoother performance all the way up to 80mph. It feels a lot like adding a full jet kit and slip on but nothing else was done to the airbox or exhaust. I expected little to no noticeable increase in performance so the results are satisfying.
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Jul 10, 2014 20:29
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Z3n posted:690 enduro or smc, XR650R, bmw x-country/x-moto. None of those felt like a real "step up" or "something different". I'd rather just run my KLR into the ground.  OSU_Matthew, it looks like you own the Coleman ATV seat protector. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006JMK7N8/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 How do you like it? Reviews seem positive on Amazon, and I just ordered one for myself for a couple of reasons, primarily the hope that I would have numb-dick by the time I get to work/home everyday. I also went ahead and ordered a pair of Nelson-Rigg (SE-2060-ORG) Hi-Visibility Orange Adventure Dry Saddlebags. I'm tired of trying to shove my work boots, laptop, raingear, and other poo poo in my topcase. I think these will help quite a bit. Also, I'm making a statement with the safety orange in TN Vol country. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AC6XSHE/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 All in all, only $20 thanks to cashback rewards on a company expense card. Whoop. Now, to hide them from my wife....
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Jul 13, 2014 19:55
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Dead Pressed posted:None of those felt like a real "step up" or "something different". I'd rather just run my KLR into the ground. I'll comment on the ATV seat protector. It's better than the stock rear end-numbness, but for me, a guy with a very nondescript, almost non-extant rear end, it only delays the inevitable pain. Worth 20 bucks or whatever they're charging for it (I saw the same one at Wal-Mart not long ago for like 12.99) but it's not a complete solution. I still plan to save a few bucks and upgrade the seat all the way to the Corbin or something. Also, take the seat off and mount the straps under it if you can. I goofed and cut the ends off the straps (the larger bits so that they won't slide through the plastic clips) and am thus left with little room for adjustment. The thing also slides around sometimes which can be a bit unnerving when having fun on twisties, but proper butt positioning fixes that pretty easily.
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Jul 14, 2014 01:00
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Yea, like ^^ he said, it's worth the $15 at walmart to alleviate a bit of the stock torture device.
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Jul 15, 2014 00:14
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^^I'd highly recommend an atv seat cover. It fits great, and I haven't had any complaints about discomfort since, (though that could also be because I'm used to it now). The only thing I don't like is that it's difficult to cinch down as tight as I would like, because the buckles get in the way of slipping it under the seat and cranking down on the straps. Doesn't move anywhere, but it kind of annoys me. I'll have to try the aftermarket cables. My bars have riser blocks on them, and that makes the cables stretched too taut for comfort, especially on when cranking the wheel. If I'm trying to adjust while parking and turn too far right, the choke cable gets so tight it actually actuates the choke and stalls the bike. Does anyone know if I can get longer cables for everything? Or should I just remove the risers to solve this?
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Jul 16, 2014 12:36
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Just spotted this beauty on the local market. Anything special about the tengai version? Any KLR is pretty drat rare over here.
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Jul 23, 2014 22:32
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Only that it looks kickin rad and you need to buy it to preserve it. Looks like street tires, too.
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Jul 23, 2014 22:51
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Supradog posted:Just spotted this beauty on the local market. Buy it right this instant so I can live vicariously through you. Those colors are just 
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Jul 24, 2014 00:45
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My uncle dropped my bike after trying to sit on it but I'm happy, it gave me an excuse to get new mirrors and a paint job. http://m.ebay.com/itm/190403902345?txnId=1021833271009 Picked up these chinese mirrors from an advrider post to replace the Mickey mouse ears. They screwed right in and really increase visibility. They shake about as much as the OEMs, so I'm happy overall. Wish they didn't look so "street", but they're performing well, so not much to complain about there.   Also stumbled my way through two plastidip coats that took way longer than they should have taken. I learned a lot of lessons, mostly on how not to do things. The tank actually matches better to the plastic in person, it's just how it turned out on my phone.  For anybody planning on doing this: 1. Two coats is definitely not enough, shoot for four or even six. It'll average out to about three or four cans. 2. Put extra on your side fairings or you'll rub it off when you start riding 3. Don't be lazy with sanding 4. Don't try to fill with overspray, it'll mess the whole piece up and you'll have to start over 5. Be sure to use a matching primer in any case. for sale fucked around with this message at 02:36 on Aug 8, 2014 |
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Aug 8, 2014 02:16
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Well, I just bought my second bike ever and it's a KLR650. Previous owner did a bunch of work to it, and I haven't had a chance to really tear into it at all so lets hope I didn't gently caress up too badly.    My KLX 250 as a bonus in the background.
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Aug 12, 2014 02:24
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for sale posted:blackout klr Looks pretty sweet! I'd love to cover up the rapidly fading lovely John Deere green that's infecting mine. What fender is that? I'm looking at either chopping the stock one up or the Acerbis for like $25 to see if either makes a difference at highway speeds.
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Aug 17, 2014 02:58
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My local bike shop offered me a decent deal on a 200x KLR that I'm halfheartedly considering. They say they've gone through it and it is great mechanically, but it's missing plastic on the right side like the radiator cowling, fairing, muffler guard, maybe more I didn't notice. I didn't ask many details at the time but they mentioned that they've done the dohickey, brakes, fluids, cables, plug, etc. These guys are trustworthy so I'm just wondering about the costs of replacing plastic and the tires. How much would the plastics be (and where's the best place to order them)? What tires do y'all recommend for commuting and occasional dirt/gravel?
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Aug 17, 2014 03:51
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I'd say skip the plastics and just get an IMS 6.6 gallon fuel tank. That replaces a lot of the plastics, and, if you get it in green, you can always see how much fuel you have. http://imsproducts.com/Products/ind...zeSet=6.6%20gal I think Avon Distanzias are the go-to tire for 90/10 street/dirt riding.
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Aug 17, 2014 04:47
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FaceEater posted:Looks pretty sweet! I'd love to cover up the rapidly fading lovely John Deere green that's infecting mine. What fender is that? I'm looking at either chopping the stock one up or the Acerbis for like $25 to see if either makes a difference at highway speeds. Thanks man, yeah it's the acerbis supermoto fender. Some people say to really feel a difference on the highway you need to add a fork brace, but I definitely noticed a positive difference with just the new fender. It's a good cheap fix and it's really easy to install. You just need a drill bit and about a half hour and it's on there rock solid. RE Jose I got a great price on kendas but kind of regret putting them on instead of avons or bridgestones since I just do street riding. If you don't do any off-road you'll feel much more comfortable on the highway with strong street tires, but the Kendas or shinkos are nice otherwise. for sale fucked around with this message at 08:21 on Aug 17, 2014 |
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Aug 17, 2014 08:13
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