Monitor/Display Megathread - Chromebook Pixel is best IPS display on market

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Serious Hardware/Software Crap > Monitor/Display Megathread - Chromebook Pixel is best IPS display on market

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Alereon: Feb 6, 2004; Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed; College Slice

Just a quick reminder that you can now get active DisplayPort to single-link DVI adapters for <$25 that support up to 1920x1200 displays (this is an MDP->SL-DVI adapter for Radeon HD 6000-series cards). This is a pretty inexpensive way to get triple-head Eyefinity going without having to buy a $100 adapter or DP monitor.

# ¿ Jan 12, 2011 03:10

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# ¿ Apr 24, 2024 17:07

Alereon: Feb 6, 2004; Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed; College Slice

DrDork posted:

Are you sure? I was under the impression that, due to clock-source issues, you'd still be limited to two monitors, since the card itself can only physically utilize two non-DP outputs at once. It is a nice option for people with the U2311H trying to use it with both a PC and a XBox/PS3, though!

Yeah that issue is why this adapter exists, it's an active adapter that generates the TMDS signal, not just a passive pin adapter. If you're doing 1920x1200@60hz@24bit or less it's a great alternative to getting the $100 adapters which don't have that bandwidth limitation.

# ¿ Jan 12, 2011 23:29

Alereon: Feb 6, 2004; Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed; College Slice

I haven't been paying much attention to monitors for awhile, but today Engadget had the announcement of the AOC Aire Pro, a 23-inch LED-backlit IPS monitor for $199. The only comparable priced IPS monitor I noticed on Newegg is the Asus ML239H for $189.99-$20 MIR=$169.99, so this looks like a reasonably good deal, but I didn't look very hard.

# ¿ Nov 19, 2011 07:31

Alereon: Feb 6, 2004; Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed; College Slice

Stealthgerbil posted:

I am trying to find a decent monitor from the sales? How are ASUS monitors?

Reviews of the $189 Asus IPS monitor on Newegg were pretty good, except that some people got monitors with bad backlight bleed on the corners. Most people said they were fine. I ordered one on Monday but it's not going to be here until next Tuesday thanks to the holiday weekend, I'll report back then.

# ¿ Nov 24, 2011 11:46

Alereon: Feb 6, 2004; Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed; College Slice

MixMasterMalaria posted:

Uneven backlighting, very poor vertical viewing angle, and underwhelming color reproduction. I like the 16:10 contrast ratio and don't hate the 1680x1050 resolution but watching 1080 content (and eventually editing it, I hope) would be nice. I've not had a problem with response times and was planning to keep the monitor to display tools while doing full screen editing with whatever I get for a primary.

I've read the OP and know the pros/cons of IPS vs TN panels and would lean towards IPS but it's not a necessity unless doing some 2d graphics work for indie games definitely calls for it.

The 24 inch Dell ultrasharps are the most appealing to me, but frankly out of my price range at the moment.

Check out the Asus ML239H for $189.99-$20 MIR=$169.99 at Newegg, it's an IPS panel. That price and rebate should be available until the end of the month. If you care about color accuracy as opposed to just looking nice you might want to consider investing in a color calibrator, even a cheap monitor generally has better color accuracy when calibrated than a more expensive but uncalibrated monitor.

# ¿ Nov 24, 2011 20:25

Alereon: Feb 6, 2004; Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed; College Slice

Kudaros posted:

The newegg reviews talk a bit about backlight bleeding -- what exactly is this? Is it an over reaction?

This right here is an example of bad backlight bleeding, it's one of the ways a monitor can be defective. A little bit of bleeding is normal, but if it's bad you just get it replaced.

# ¿ Nov 25, 2011 01:42

Alereon: Feb 6, 2004; Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed; College Slice

Stealthgerbil posted:

I just ordered http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824009315 from the newegg sale and it seems to get good reviews. I assume its fine for gaming even though its a budget monitor?

The monitor itself will probably look fine, it's so cheap because it doesn't support HDCP copy protection, meaning you can't use it to watch Blurays, hook it up to a TV box, or otherwise use it for watching protected content.

# ¿ Nov 25, 2011 10:15

Alereon: Feb 6, 2004; Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed; College Slice

Hanns-G monitors (and generic/low quality brands in general) tend to have rather short lifespans. Make sure you get an Active DisplayPort->DVI adapter, if you only need 1080p support then one of the cheaper single-link DVI adapters will do fine, as long as it's an active adapter.

# ¿ Nov 26, 2011 02:36

Alereon: Feb 6, 2004; Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed; College Slice

ToastyX posted:

I'm pretty sure that's not true. What monitor doesn't have HDCP support these days?

The Detailed Specs specifically says it doesn't support HDCP. They would be able to easily disable it via the firmware and not have to pay the per-monitor royalties, so that may explain its absence. I suppose it COULD be an error but I don't see anything contradicting those specs.

# ¿ Nov 27, 2011 07:09

Alereon: Feb 6, 2004; Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed; College Slice

Dominoes posted:

I play flight sims, and shooters with long-distances involved like Battlefield and Arma.

I'm using an HP ZR24w.

Other than cost, is there a reason not to buy a big loving monitor with a very high resolution (Like the 30" version of what I have) so it takes up a good portion of my actual view, then set the game FOV to whatever FOV the monitor's actually using so I can see distant objects in high detail? My 24" is only taking up about 50-60 degrees, which is too cramped to set game FOV to.

Multi-monitors is another, probably more common solution, but I can't see how the split in the middle wouldn't be a huge distraction.

What videocard do you have? If you have (or are willing to buy) an AMD card, you can do Eyefinity, which is designed to stretch games across multiple monitors. Three decent 23" 1080p IPS monitors would be cheaper than a single huge monitor, you don't have a bezel in the middle of your field of view, and the AMD drivers can even do bezel compensation (which makes the bezel block some of the field of view so geometry stays consistent between monitors.) You'd probably need at least a Radeon HD 6950 2GB to play anything modern at 5760x1080, but that would look pretty drat immersive.

# ¿ Dec 4, 2011 14:02

Alereon: Feb 6, 2004; Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed; College Slice

Keep in mind you're limited to a maximum of two legacy (DVI/HDMI) monitors, so you'll need at least one Active mini-DisplayPort to DVI adapter, but the inexpensive single-link ones are fine since you only need 1080p. I built a system with that Asus monitor and it looked fine, the viewing angles were definitely better than my TN panel, but I didn't get to spend as much time with it as I would have liked. Some of the Newegg reviews complained about backlight bleed but the one I got was fine in that sense. The base/stand works surprisingly well also, though you will need a level surface to put all three monitors on as it doesn't have much/any height adjustment.

# ¿ Dec 4, 2011 15:08

Alereon: Feb 6, 2004; Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed; College Slice

Do note that a Radeon HD 6870 isn't exactly a fast card (mid-range from two generations back...) so it shouldn't be too concerning that 1440p isn't realistically playable. You'd certainly need to look at at least a Radeon HD 7950 Boost 3GB or Geforce GTX 670 2GB (though it's kind of stupid to buy a card with only 2GB of video RAM for 1440p gaming as it will likely be obsolete in a flash). While there have been and are driver issues on the AMD side, the R7950 Boost 3GB is a pretty compellingly priced card.

# ¿ Jun 17, 2013 19:58

Alereon: Feb 6, 2004; Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed; College Slice

Seamonster posted:

The 6870 isn't a fast card because of a VRAM limitation and its not the chip's age being the primary problem. The 7950 might be 25%-40% faster but also consumes a third more power at full tilt compared to the 6870, gaining you practically nothing in "efficiency."

But yes, 2560xN means you need more VRAM (and power supply) than you might think.

The Radeon HD 6870 has literally half the number of texture units as the Radeon HD 7970B, leading to roughly half the texturing throughput (50.4 GTex/sec on the 6870, 95.2-103.6 GTex/sec on the 7950GB). This is on top of the 50% compute performance improvement on the 7950B over the 6870. Having only 1GB of VRAM is critical too but there just isn't enough card there for 1440p.

Alereon fucked around with this message at 20:52 on Jun 17, 2013

# ¿ Jun 17, 2013 20:42

Alereon: Feb 6, 2004; Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed; College Slice

Anandtech posted their review of the Monoprice Zero-G Slim 27" IPS display. Do not buy this monitor, brightness control is implemented incorrectly and completely fucks the image. It seems like rather than reducing the backlight brightness it just reduces the contrast of the image.

Alereon fucked around with this message at 20:03 on Aug 26, 2013

# ¿ Aug 26, 2013 20:00

Alereon: Feb 6, 2004; Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed; College Slice

Agrajag posted:

Wait! You can overclock your monitor!!?!?!? WHAT? So, I don't have to be stuck at 60hz?

Some cheaper monitors with pretty minimal electronics (particularly some Korean models) will attempt to drive the panel at whatever input refresh rate they receive. Most other monitors will just only synch to refresh rates they support, or drop frames to match the panel refresh rate. The downside is that many monitors won't work at higher refresh rates or will have artifacts, I think in some cases it can even damage the monitor. Note that IPS panels can't physically refresh fast enough to show 120 frames per second so if you try you'll only get blur, though this should be fine for the purposes of making motion look smooth. Trying to do 120Hz 3D is right out on an IPS monitor though, you need TN if you actually want to approach 120 displayed frames per second.

# ¿ Sep 1, 2013 19:38

Alereon: Feb 6, 2004; Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed; College Slice

Gnomedolf posted:

I've ordered a Qnix. I'm looking at video cards to use with it that won't break the bank too badly. How would a GTX 760 do for gaming at this resolution?

Check out the TechReport review of the GTX 760, they do a useful benchmark method that tells you how much time each card spends below 60/30/20fps. Depending on the game there can be a VERY huge difference between the GTX 760 and GTX 770 when you look at how much time is spend under 30fps. One key factor to pay attention to is Video RAM amount. Most GTX 760 and GTX 770 cards have only 2GB of RAM, that's enough for today but can't be expected to hold up very long, especially at 1440p. The Radeon HD 7950B and 7970 start to look like compelling values because they have 3GB of RAM at 2/3 the price of competing nVidia cards. The downside there is that AMDs drivers have gotten VERY bad over the last couple years, though they have been improving noticeably over the last few months. The poor single-card options from nVidia and huge gap between the GTX 760 2GB and the GTX 770 4GB has led to GTX 760 SLI solutions being somewhat popular, though that still doesn't get you around the video memory barrier, and when multi-GPU doesn't scale well it offers an awful experience (granted it usually scales pretty well with current nVidia drivers, and micro-stutter is less noticeable in the past).

You'd likely find the GPU Megathread helpful for further discussion.

# ¿ Sep 8, 2013 19:49

Alereon: Feb 6, 2004; Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed; College Slice

Note that if you care about color accuracy you NEED a hardware color calibration device. Even the most accurate monitors out of the box are only roughly equal to the least accurate monitors post-calibration. I'm not saying that you shouldn't buy a good monitor and should calibrate a crappy one, just that you're not actually getting the performance you should expect if you haven't calibrated the monitor.

# ¿ Sep 12, 2013 00:24

Alereon: Feb 6, 2004; Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed; College Slice

movax posted:

Doesn't seem "broken" (I can adjust it OK); there definitely is more glare than I would like in an office with a single overhead fluorescent light. Thinking about switching lighting in that office to a floor lamp or something for some more diffuse lighting.

In the Anandtech review, they found that backlight brightness cannot be controlled and instead the controller just adjusts picture contrast. Monoprice said that was intended (as a cost-saving measure?), but maybe there's a new working version out.

# ¿ Oct 4, 2013 18:10

Alereon: Feb 6, 2004; Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed; College Slice

Skilleddk posted:

I've wanted to switch monitors for some time. Got a standard 24 inch Samsung at 1920x1200 res. I have it hooked up to a 1920x1080 TV and sometimes stream onto it. But now I want to buy a bigger 27 inch monitor, and have my samsung at the side. I'm wondering what would be the best upgrade choice, go for a 120hz or a 2560x1440 monitor. I'm not that much into gaming anymore but whenever some new graphical beast game comes out, I play through it in one sitting. I've never tried either 120hz or 2560x1440 and just wonder what would be the best? My other specs are i2500k (overclocked to 4ghz, can push 4.5 if I bother), 8GB ram and GTX680

You'd have to use a comparably crappy TN panel monitor to get 120Hz, so 1440p would probably give you a better experience. Basically TN panels are fast and ugly, IPS/PLS panels are slower but have better image quality, in particular their viewing angles.

# ¿ Oct 8, 2013 21:37

Alereon: Feb 6, 2004; Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed; College Slice

GrizzlyCow posted:

What about what Overlord are offering? Are they just not good, or do they not perform as advertised?

Those are 60Hz panels that can be overclocked to 120Hz. Like El Scotch said, this may not work, and a monitor that overclocks to 120Hz without artifacts on their test platform may not work or may have graphical anomalies on your system. More importantly, even if it works the panel doesn't have a fast enough response time to actually change the picture in the 8ms that's available at 120Hz, resulting in blurring. Even this would be acceptable, but the monitor uses overdriving* to achieve the quoted response time, and it's designed to work with a 60Hz signal. The overdriving won't be effective on a 60Hz signal, and could even result in much worse artifacts than are normally visible.

* Overdriving is a way to improve the pixel response time to better than the native response time of the panel. It works by telling the pixel to change more than it needs to, causing it to change faster, then stopping it when it gets to the value you actually want. For example, if you need to change a black pixel to gray, it is much faster to tell the pixel to switch to white and stop it halfway than to wait for the full transition to gray. The downside is that in reality the pixel actually overshoots to a brighter gray than you intended then settles back, which can cause visible artifacts (usually a brighter outline on dark moving objects). If you are giving a monitor with overdrive (all of them) half the time to the transitions than it expects, the response time will be much worse than you expect.

Alereon fucked around with this message at 01:42 on Oct 9, 2013

# ¿ Oct 9, 2013 01:38

Alereon: Feb 6, 2004; Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed; College Slice

Ak Gara posted:

Nvidia Control Panel, so Nvidia users only I think.

The same feature works in the Catalyst Control Center for upscaling so I think it works for downscaling as well, you just have to be at a non-default resolution for the scaling options to become visible.

# ¿ Oct 10, 2013 20:51

Alereon: Feb 6, 2004; Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed; College Slice

lethial posted:

Though, what do you guys think g-sync will do with the mouse movement? Will it make it feel floaty like vsync does?

You're probably noticing the one to two additional frames of latency from vsync, and no G-sync won't have this. That said you shouldn't be noticing latency from vsync if the configuration is correct, so double-check settings such as triple-buffering.

Bonus explanatory edit: Vsync (double-buffering) adds one frame of latency, triple-buffering adds another. While that seems bad, it shouldn't be perceptible if your framerate isn't significantly below the refresh rate. When it starts to be a problem is when you have a game that has some extra rendering/interface latency already, a monitor that adds a few frames of its own delay, and suddenly you're up well past 100ms of latency, and those extra frames may be the difference between it being perceptible or not.

Alereon fucked around with this message at 22:53 on Oct 20, 2013

# ¿ Oct 20, 2013 21:25

Alereon: Feb 6, 2004; Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed; College Slice

Sidesaddle Cavalry posted:

I can see where you're coming from. I think I was repulsed a little when I happened upon a dumb post from another forum basically saying "ASUS didn't mention what type of panel it was, so it must be lovely TN because they didn't want to draw peoples' attention to that fact".

It might just be my wishful thinking, but if ASUS is going to manufacture a brand-spanking new TN panel (new as in, nobody's ever made a 1440p TN), I hope they sparkle some fancy magic dust on it and turn it into something with better color quality, etc. or perhaps even make it a VA panel like the way EIZO touts their own, as being somewhat "better".

El Scotch posted:

Anandtech's liveblog comment:

03:17PM EST - Looks like it's not IPS though, apparently really good for a TN panel

We'll see what the reviews look like after it's released.

I think Sidesaddle Cavalry is on the right track and this may actually be a 1440p MVA panel, like the 1080p one used in the Eizo Foris FG2421. These panels have a claimed 1ms response time and officially support 120Hz, and at a glance they look visually somewhere between TN and IPS. They do have off-axis color shift so they aren't good where you'd use IPS, but they aren't NEARLY as bad as TN so colors don't look weird just from moving around or slouching in your computer chair. I have read that they also don't use (or benefit from) overdrive, which simplifies designs.

Alereon fucked around with this message at 02:25 on Jan 7, 2014

# ¿ Jan 7, 2014 02:21

Alereon: Feb 6, 2004; Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed; College Slice

Alereon posted:

I think Sidesaddle Cavalry is on the right track and this may actually be a 1440p MVA panel, like the 1080p one used in the Eizo Foris FG2421. These panels have a claimed 1ms response time and officially support 120Hz, and at a glance they look visually somewhere between TN and IPS. They do have off-axis color shift so they aren't good where you'd use IPS, but they aren't NEARLY as bad as TN so colors don't look weird just from moving around or slouching in your computer chair. I have read that they also don't use (or benefit from) overdrive, which simplifies designs.

I was wrong the Asus ROG SWIFT PG278Q really is TN gently caress this gay earth. gently caress anyone who spends $800 on a TN monitor. Monitor confession time: I currently have a 1200p TN monitor and the only reason it sucks is because I have horrible posture, but if I was buying a new monitor I would want a real image quality upgrade. It's just annoying that 1920x1200 went away so if I want a new monitor I either have to downgrade to 1080p or spring for 1440p. Enough videocard to get smooth performance in all games at 1440p is crazy expensive, which is why G-Sync is compelling to me. I guess I just want a cheaper 1440p monitor with G-Sync, but I kinda want 120Hz too for the better experience where G-Sync doesn't work, such as jitter-free 24fps video playback.

# ¿ Jan 8, 2014 03:58

Alereon: Feb 6, 2004; Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed; College Slice

XboxPants posted:

Well, could I have all three of them plugged in and switch between which two are active at any given moment? That would still work for me 90% of the time.

That should work, though the correct solution is just to spend ~$20 on an Active DisplayPort to DVI/HDMI adapter as appropriate (works up to 1080p). The Active part means it has a chip that generates DVI/HDMI signals, versus just being a pin adapter and requiring the card to send the correct signal type, like on the $5 adapters. Also, if you have a new AMD videocard you can run three monitors as long as two of them are exactly the same resolution and refresh rate and can thus be driven from the same timing source.

Alereon fucked around with this message at 19:52 on Feb 6, 2014

# ¿ Feb 6, 2014 04:16

Alereon: Feb 6, 2004; Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed; College Slice

XboxPants posted:

I was starting to lean towards that direction, so thanks for the encouragement. If they're just $20 I think I'll just do that. Any recommendations, or should I just choose a nice brand/review rating and go with it?

I'd just go with the cheapest on Newegg (sold by Newegg) that says it is Active and has customer reviews saying it worked. There are some suspiciously cheap "active" adapters that are mislabeled passive and I think KingWin has one model that just doesn't work, if it averages like 1/5 stars and has a bunch of reviews saying they got no picture don't buy that one

quote:

Excellent! I think that'll just fine for me, since both of my extra monitors are actually TVs.

Just a note I made a typo in my earlier post, to use a third monitor using a simple adapter it must use the same resolution AND refresh rate as one of the other monitors. This applies to the R-series cards, I don't think 7-series cards can do it without the active adapter.

# ¿ Feb 6, 2014 19:57

Alereon: Feb 6, 2004; Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed; College Slice

Zorilla posted:

I've heard a couple mentions of active adapters being down to $20, but I haven't seen any examples. Are you referring to any active adapter, including single link and/or ones with a full-size DisplayPort connector on one end? Aside from multi-monitor setups, it seems like the biggest reason one might want an active adapter is to drive a Korean 27" monitor from a Mac or other Mini DisplayPort-equipped device, and that would require Mini DisplayPort to DVI Dual Link.

If you need support for more than 1920x1200@60Hz@24-bit you're going to need a more expensive adapter. For most users this isn't an issue since they can just put hang their high-resolution display off of a high-bandwidth link and use the adapter with their second/third display. This $70 adapter on monoprice seems to be the cheapest offering true dual-link DVI that would work for Mac users.

# ¿ Feb 7, 2014 18:17

Alereon: Feb 6, 2004; Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed; College Slice

ShaneB posted:

Nice. Are the perfect pixel ones usually worth it?

I'd suggest googling for "Korean IPS" and "Korean PLS", you'll find megathreads on various forums with details. To summarize, there's two major types of Korean monitors out there, those based on LG IPS panels and those based on Samsung PLS panels (Samsung's version of IPS). It's kind of personal which type you'd prefer, I think PLS is generally "better" for most users who'd be considering Korean monitors, due to less "IPS glow" and better screen finishes, but that's me.

Most Korean IPS monitors are glossy, though I have heard some have an awful grainy matte finish with a terrible anti-glare coating. The PLS monitors come in glossy and VERY fine matte, fine enough not to cause visible grain. In general glossy monitors provide better image quality and no glare, EXCEPT if you have bright lights at an angle that will reflect them directly, in which case you need matte. Avoid monitors labelled "glass front", these have a sheet of tempered glass in front of the panel for kiosk/cafe usage and this affects image quality seriously. Pixel perfect monitors are not worth paying for, if they test them at all it's not thoroughly, so there is no change in your chance of getting a dead pixel.

# ¿ Feb 27, 2014 00:27

Alereon: Feb 6, 2004; Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed; College Slice

Zorilla posted:

I don't think I've made the same observations about the matte AG coating between the two OEMs. My current X-Star's matte finish is pretty much indistinguishable from LG-paneled monitors I've used in the past, such as the Dell U2713H/HM and HP ZR2740w. Same with the IPS glow; aside from the U2713H, which is a bit of an oddball and not for general purpose use anyway, the amount of glow has been similar between all IPS/PLS monitor's I've viewed in the past.

It sounds like you have way more personal experience with these monitors than I do so I'll defer to your judgment, I've seen a Korean LG IPS model in person once and I only really had time to appreciate the contrast and color (in terms of pop, nor correctness) and not look deeply. I thought I remembered a site showing closeup comparisons of pixels on the various monitors showing the matte LG IPS panels had worse-than-average grain, but I will admit to being overcautious and having high standards due to having a VERY gritty Dell LCD. Similarly I thought I had seen comparison shots showing much lower "glow" on the PLS panels, but I can't find that via Google again so I could be making that up.

quote:

I can't say I've seen many glossy PLS panels around- that's probably more of an LG thing due to OEM demand. In fact, the only true glossy Korean PLS monitor I've seen was one that only just showed up within the last month: the Monex M27QSM. I haven't heard much talk about it, so I have no idea how it stacks up to the X-Star/QNIX or anything else with the LTM270DL02 PLS panel.

I was poking around the Ebay vendors this week and they seemed to mostly be selling glossy PLS panels, and from the forum reviews I was reading they really were glossy and not just fine matte.

KingEup posted:

What kind of a stupid industry thinks it's a good idea to wrap a monitor in cheap-rear end looking plastic?

The kind that is buying defective (A-) panels at a deep discount, connecting it to electronics at the lowest possible costs, and then selling them at whatever markup they can get overseas?

# ¿ Feb 27, 2014 03:17

Alereon: Feb 6, 2004; Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed; College Slice

KingEup posted:

Wouldn't it be cheaper to not bother manufacturing a plastic case and stand?

You kind of have to have something to hold the panel and electronics and buttons together, unless I'm misunderstanding what you're saying. I totally get that it is ridiculous that a monitor would be perfectly usable except the plastic case is slightly too inconsistent, it seems like the answer to that is spending like $1 each more on build quality. The manufacturers probably don't care and will sell all the monitors they make without that because they are so drat cheap, though. Wanting an option that's like 5% less lovely for 5% more money is the story of technology (and most things really).

# ¿ Feb 27, 2014 03:33

Alereon: Feb 6, 2004; Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed; College Slice

Zero VGS posted:

Nvidia has pretty much come out and said that no one has found a way to make it work with IPS yet; technical reasons mostly involving response times. I'm sure it'll make headlines once someone figures it out.

G-Sync works fine with IPS monitors, there just aren't any that support 120Hz due to the higher response time. They are pushing 120Hz TN panels with G-Sync for the best possible smoothness, even though you'd get the most significant improvement and overall experience with 60Hz on an IPS panel.

# ¿ Mar 10, 2014 16:13

Alereon: Feb 6, 2004; Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed; College Slice

Zero VGS posted:

Nah, I know Anand said "oh yeah it's fine", but when people complained that all nine or so current and announced panels were TN, an Nvidia rep made a semi-official post saying they haven't worked it out yet because of the panel's limitations. I don't have the time to find the post but I promise I didn't imagine it.

The quotes on this page indicate nVidia was talking about why IPS panels can't do 120Hz. For marketing reasons nVidia may require partners to pair G-Sync modules with 120Hz+ LightBoost-enabled monitors, but that's not because it wouldn't work at 60Hz on IPS panels.

# ¿ Mar 10, 2014 18:33

Alereon: Feb 6, 2004; Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed; College Slice

ShaneB posted:

The anand reviews have it as their best (as of review date) off-the-line specs...

That's far worse than the lowest-accuracy monitor they've tested post-calibration. Pre-calibration the U2713HM had a Delta-E of 3.15, the worst monitor in their tests (BenQ VW2420) scored 2.09 after calibration.

# ¿ Mar 19, 2014 23:22

Alereon: Feb 6, 2004; Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed; College Slice

BANME.sh posted:

YCbCr 4:4:4 was the default, but I tried out what RGB 4:4:4 looks significantly brighter and more vivid, but I don't know which option would be best to use. The setting also reverts itself after about 30 seconds even though there is no dialog saying "reverting in 30 seconds..." that typically shows up when you change video settings.

The last one is the only one that will work correctly.

# ¿ Mar 31, 2014 21:27

Alereon: Feb 6, 2004; Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed; College Slice

Samuel L. ACKSYN posted:

So could I use a HDMI to DVI cable with the Korean monitor, or is there going to be some problem with that? Should I just get a dedicated video card instead?

You wouldn't be able to use an HDMI->DVI adapter for >1920x1200 as you need dual-link DVI, it sounds like a videocard would be the correct choice since your motherboard doesn't have DisplayPort. Make sure any videocard you consider has dual-link DVI or this will not work!

# ¿ Apr 21, 2014 18:40

Alereon: Feb 6, 2004; Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed; College Slice

To avoid double-posting: Does anyone have any opinions on the Monoprice 27" IPS LED CrystalPro? It seems similar to the Zero-G but without the scaler that causes input lag and brightness/contrast issues. I can't find anyone that has reviewed this monitor which makes me a little hesitant, I'm mostly considering it over a Korean panel from Ebay as there's a usable warranty and return policy, and supplies of Korean monitors on Ebay seem to be drying up which makes me worry about buying from the dregs of whats left.

Edit: Upon review it seems that the Monoprice 27" CrystalPro is just a First FSM-270YG. I did find one for $279.99 on Ebay vs $400 for the Monoprice, so I don't think the American warranty and return policy are worth it. Let's hope I don't lose the Korean panel lottery!

Carecat posted:

Are we going to get awesome 24"+ versions of the fancy AMOLED screens in new phones? They'll put this stuff in TVs so it will filter down to us eventually right?

Screen burn-in is a real problem, especially since AMOLED subpixels age at different rates. In Android 4.4 Google fades to the top black bar instead of having a sharp transition to make burn-in less visible on AMOLED displays.

Alereon fucked around with this message at 17:52 on Apr 27, 2014

# ¿ Apr 27, 2014 16:28

Alereon: Feb 6, 2004; Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed; College Slice

The First FSM-270YG I bought for $279.90 on Sunday arrived yesterday, significantly beating the shipping estimate of Monday. This thing is beautiful, thanks for all your help Zorilla! I neglected to consider that I'd need a longer Dual-Link DVI cable to connect it to my machine, but I hooked it up to my roommate's box for a quick inspection and it looks great. Backlight bleed is the best I could have hoped for, it looks almost perfectly even straight-on with only very slight extra bleed along the bottom where the taskbar normally is, there are no obvious bright corners like I was afraid of. I didn't see any dead pixels when I tested with black and RGB backgrounds. The only problem is that brightness adjustment doesn't seem to be working, I'm holding the +/- down buttons next to the power button with no visual change, but maybe I'm doing it wrong and will test more thoroughly later today when I get the longer cable. IPS glow is definitely visible on a black screen, I'm hoping that I'll be able to improve this by reducing the brightness, though at the end of the day even if I'm stuck here its a HUGE improvement over the Acer P243W TN-panel I was using before.

Can anyone suggest any good test images or patterns for checking for dithering artifacts on 6-bit panels? I'm curious if I can actually see any visual artifacts going away vs just a general improvement in color quality.

# ¿ May 3, 2014 15:13

Alereon: Feb 6, 2004; Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed; College Slice

Zorilla posted:

These IPS panels do glow a little bit on the bottom from a normal viewing angle and distance, It's not that, right? If not, I recommend "massaging" the area surrounding the bleed with a fine microfiber cloth, observing how it changes as you apply gentle pressure. IPS panels are so finnicky about fit that even the slightest change can have a significant effect on bleed.

Now that I have it set up in front of me I think this is more a result of where I'm sitting to look at the monitor. It does have a bit more bleed in the lower-right corner, but that's also where I least care about having bleed. It feels like the color temperature is a bit cool, but I think my monitors were previously just set warm. I found resetting my other display back to factory default made it match this one pretty closely. I can play with color in my nVidia settings anyway. Coming from a TN monitor the color temperature depending on how much I was slouching so this is a huge improvement in any case.

quote:

As for brightness, the controls respond very slowly compared to the X-STAR and QNIX. The labels are in Korean, but you did correctly guess that it was the pair of buttons directly to the left of the power button that control brightness, not the first two on the left like some other models. You need to hold it down for a few seconds before you'll even notice a change. The power LED will blink slowly, then quickly, indicating the adjustment rate is speeding up.

Thanks, verified working. I would have liked a bit more range but it's definitely enough for normal usage.

Edit: Also, while I haven't tested it, the nVidia control panel says the display is HDCP-capable, contrary to the TechReport review.

Alereon fucked around with this message at 20:29 on May 3, 2014

# ¿ May 3, 2014 20:21

Alereon: Feb 6, 2004; Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed; College Slice

tacosupreme posted:

I'm considering making the plunge.

Did you have any problems given that this model ships with a Korean power plug? Would a normal three prong connect to the box (and wall) with no problems?

Also, did you end up reducing the glow?

I'm pretty sure the glow I'm seeing is the normal IPS glow. The bottom-right corner is a bit brighter than the others, but not to the point where I think it's an assembly defect or would consider disassembling the monitor, the backlight is still more even than the Acer P243W TN monitor I replaced. The only thing that remains a concern for me is the blue color cast, though I got just got a new monitor at work and think it looks blueish so maybe I just like my displays warm. I think I really just need to buy a color calibrator so I can stop trying to set relative color by eye.

# ¿ May 8, 2014 22:06

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# ¿ Apr 24, 2024 17:07

Alereon: Feb 6, 2004; Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed; College Slice

flappin fish posted:

Does anyone know for sure whether or not one or both of these laptops would be able to use an external monitor at 2560x1440? Would it make any difference if I got a monitor with an HDMI input vs using an adapter to DVI?

I'm pretty sure the HD 2500 laptop should output 1440p over HDMI with the latest drivers, and that spec sheet you linked claims HDMI 1.4 support. Do note that this would only work with a monitor with HDMI input, the Korean monitors with DVI input require dual-link DVI, which you can't get from an HDMI->DVI adapter. If you have DisplayPort you could use an Active DisplayPort to Dual-Link DVI adapter, but they tend to be pretty expensive. Note also that getting a Korean monitor with multiple inputs adds input lag due to the additional scaler.

Your older laptop is right out.

# ¿ May 19, 2014 00:48

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Serious Hardware/Software Crap > Monitor/Display Megathread - Chromebook Pixel is best IPS display on market

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