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Shoozy posted:I have been thinking about making resin pendants for a couple years now. I got a $50 Amazon gift card for Christmas and decided now is the time to take the plunge and try making something. I am now in possession of eight ounces of Easy Cast Clear Casting Epoxy, Castin' Craft Mold Release Conditioner, Castin' Craft Molds, and some bales. My plan is to print some small pictures off the Internet, cut them to size, seal them with ModPodge and set them in resin. I'm obsessed with the 80s movie "Flash Gordon" right now so it'll probably be something from that. I used photo editing software to shrink a bunch of photos down and merge them into 1 photo with blank space around each image and ordered prints from Walmart or Target photocenter. I got like 8 photos to work with from one 4x6 print for something like 12 cents. I didn't seal it, just cut it up, threw it in the mold and poured the resin on it. Came out perfectly. It's a few years old now so there's some surface damage, but here's my son's underwater portrait as a necklace: 
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| # ? Jan 11, 2013 05:15 |
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| # ? May 20, 2013 11:29 |
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Fionnoula posted:I used photo editing software to shrink a bunch of photos down and merge them into 1 photo with blank space around each image and ordered prints from Walmart or Target photocenter. I got like 8 photos to work with from one 4x6 print for something like 12 cents. I didn't seal it, just cut it up, threw it in the mold and poured the resin on it. Came out perfectly. It's a few years old now so there's some surface damage, but here's my son's underwater portrait as a necklace: This is great! Thanks for the tips, everyone. I'm going to make something this weekend.
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| # ? Jan 11, 2013 12:13 |
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Hey there, this is a small question, but I'm hope that I'm asking in the right thread. I was wondering if anyone who's done a pretty papercut (kinda like this or this) has tried to use it as a stencil for paint. As I'm working on a papercut, I can see that it's not going to be the type of stencil I'd thought it'd be. If I were take any of the papercuts I linked to use it as a stencil on white paper, I'd be painting around the stencil, but the space underneath the stencil would be left white. I hope that makes sense. Does anyone have experience with stencils and how to 'invert' a papercut,?
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| # ? Jan 16, 2013 20:48 |
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I know I'm way late to the party (is there a new craft thread up?) but you'll have more luck using your desired negative-space color (white?) on a background the color of your desired lines because "inverting" a papercut/stencil that complex would not work. You'd be left with a lot of blank open space in the middle and all those itty bitty detail lines that are currently negative space? They'd be itty bitty detail stencil bits completely unconnected and floating around your desk. You could take a black/white image and invert it with your image-editing software of choice if you just want to reverse the color of the area you're cutting/tracing...? Also stencils tend to bleed paint around the edges especially with fine detail work. You might be better off making an actual papercut and mounting it on a contrasting background.
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| # ? Mar 19, 2013 04:06 |
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I have a shoe box stuffed to the brim with small upholstery type fabric samples, sizes ranging from 1.5"x1.5" to 4"x4", all in rich jewel tones. I used two of the rectangles (1.5"x4") folded in half, sides sewn together and then filled with  , I have no idea what to do with the rest of them. I feel like they need a fate better than cat toys and weird rear end patches/patchwork stuff- or sitting in the box until I die buried under half finished projects. I thought about the paper shadow-box type art project, but I don't know how that would work with fabrics and I'm also lacking inspiration. Does anyone have any ideas? I can easily take pictures to show you all the palette I have to work with, or just for the hell of it. I've had them for a year and I put them next to my "pending crafts" pile because it's starting to haunt my dreams.
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| # ? Apr 15, 2013 07:42 |
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tra la la
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AltruisticNemesis posted:I thought about the paper shadow-box type art project, but I don't know how that would work with fabrics and I'm also lacking inspiration. I would use glue (well, Mod Podge) so I could stiffen it and keep the edges from fraying. I like adhering things to canvas to convey an image, so I wouldn't go shadow-box. But that is me personally, not actual advice. If I were to do a shadow-box with fabric, I would glue the fabric to paperboard then cut it out once it's dried. In fact, pretty sure I have a bunch of paperboard sitting around unused from a long-abandoned project if you don't have an easy, cheap source of it. The other thing I would say small fabric pieces like that are good for are things like applique sewing. Hopefully you get some better suggestions than what I can give!
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| # ? Apr 15, 2013 09:34 |
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AltruisticNemesis posted:I have a shoe box stuffed to the brim with small upholstery type fabric samples, sizes ranging from 1.5"x1.5" to 4"x4", all in rich jewel tones. If you really like the fabric, you could always sew the scraps together to form a quilted fabric, which you could then make into a couch pillow or something.
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| # ? Apr 15, 2013 14:35 |
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AltruisticNemesis, you can also turn them into cute tacks and/or magnets using buttons to cover: http://howaboutorange.blogspot.com/...k-tutorial.html If you want to cut it into shapes for a shadow box or to make ornaments or something, you might want to get some Stiffy Fabric Stiffener--I think it would make the fabric a bit more rigid than Mod Podge would.
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| # ? Apr 15, 2013 17:01 |
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I'm hoping this is the right place to ask this, though it might be more on an engineering/materials side. My father is a bit of a artist/tinkerer and his latest idea is for a clock design that rather than having hands move to indicate the time, it would use two disks. The larger would have a hole cut out that would highlight the numeral on the face to indicate the hour. The second, smaller disk would be offset from center with some marking used to indicate the minute. He wants it to be battery powered rather than being needed to plug in. What he's found so far is that a high powered clock motor using a C cell battery, is built to move a set of aluminum clock hands up to 16" in length and roughly 10 grams in weight total. He wants to know if the same motor would reliably move a 12" and 8" disk with the same precision, assuming the weight is the same. I'm thinking it won't work as smoothly. I know this is a bizarre question, and we could test it out by buying several motors and fabricating the discs, but we want to know if the idea is sound enough to jump off from.
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| # ? Apr 16, 2013 13:44 |
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werebee posted:I would use glue (well, Mod Podge) so I could stiffen it and keep the edges from fraying. I like adhering things to canvas to convey an image, so I wouldn't go shadow-box. But that is me personally, not actual advice. If I were to do a shadow-box with fabric, I would glue the fabric to paperboard then cut it out once it's dried. In fact, pretty sure I have a bunch of paperboard sitting around unused from a long-abandoned project if you don't have an easy, cheap source of it. That's a good idea, given the fabric is old and couch like and pillows/quilts don't sound too keen. Are you offering me the paperboard or did you want the fabric?
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| # ? Apr 21, 2013 03:18 |
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I'm offering paperboard. I already have too many projects...
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| # ? Apr 21, 2013 05:58 |
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When I was a bit younger, my brothers and I would make a little imaginary show while playing with our toys. Sometimes (Well, all the time) our toys would break and we'd be poo poo out of luck because our parents, who we're working insanely hard to obtain legal citizenship here in the good 'ole US, didn't really have the money to spare to buy us new ones all the time. Rather than cancel the show because Hulk's leg fell off or something, I'd just kinda tape it back on. After a while, I got pretty handy with tape, and just decided to try making toys out of things I found laying around the place. It turned out okay, I guess. Anyway, after a recent move, I found a bunch of them and thought I'd post pictures.     (Sorry if this post doesn't fit in with the thread, I'll remove them if that's the case )
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| # ? Apr 28, 2013 17:36 |
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Sawboss Jones posted:When I was a bit younger, my brothers and I would make a little imaginary show while playing with our toys. Sometimes (Well, all the time) our toys would break and we'd be poo poo out of luck because our parents, who we're working insanely hard to obtain legal citizenship here in the good 'ole US, didn't really have the money to spare to buy us new ones all the time. Those are cool. . . despite the inevitable poo poo-talking that will accompany it, you might brave a GBS thread, just to see what people come up with.
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| # ? Apr 28, 2013 19:28 |
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Reminds me of that goon who made robots out of stuff around the house (bottle caps, pill bottles, paperclips, etc). That last pic reminds me of Skeletor. 
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| # ? Apr 28, 2013 19:43 |
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I'm making handmade magazine holders, using cut out cardboard. The guide I'm following says to use a hot glue gun to build it. I've never used one before, so I went to Michaels and got an $8 one. It didn't work out well, though. It seems like the glue dries way too fast for me. It doesn't help that dispensing the glue from the gun is so drat slow, too. By the time I've finished applying the glue, it's already begun to form up. So now my sides are barely adhevsed on, and the glue is thick and not really pushing down, so you see big globs of glue between my cardboards. Am I doing something wrong? Or could I use a different glue?
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| # ? May 2, 2013 15:12 |
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Hot glue is usually recommended because it dries/forms up so quickly and isn't easily absorbed. It sounds to me like you might have a low temp glue gun. I have one too and it does seem to dispense very slowly so it's hard to use for big projects. High temp glue guns seem to dispense far quicker, but you can easily burn the crap out of your hands. I always end up with some crazy blisters with those. Either style of glue gun will put out a glue that sets up quickly though, so you've got to move fast. You could probably use a slower setting epoxy, but epoxy discolors cardboard and you'd have to hold it until it dried. There are also more standard glues that might work, but you'd have to find a way to vise the thing until it dried, and cardboard is kind of absorptive.
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| # ? May 2, 2013 16:04 |
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What I would probably do in this case is just put a few dots of glue down (like one dot at each end and one in the center), use those to tack the pieces together, then go back and reinforce the entire seams with the hot glue at your leisure.
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| # ? May 2, 2013 16:25 |
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Revol posted:I'm making handmade magazine holders, using cut out cardboard. The guide I'm following says to use a hot glue gun to build it. I've never used one before, so I went to Michaels and got an $8 one. It didn't work out well, though. It seems like the glue dries way too fast for me. It doesn't help that dispensing the glue from the gun is so drat slow, too. By the time I've finished applying the glue, it's already begun to form up. So now my sides are barely adhevsed on, and the glue is thick and not really pushing down, so you see big globs of glue between my cardboards. Just use plain old Elmer's and binder clip it or put something heavy on it until it's dry. If you want to cover it with fabric (can't tell if that's scrapbook paper or fabric) I've heard spray adhesive works really well. I have one of those super fancy glue guns and I don't think even it would work well on cardboard.
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| # ? May 2, 2013 21:58 |
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It's a dual-heat gun. It was set to high heat. flutterbyblue posted:You could probably use a slower setting epoxy, but epoxy discolors cardboard and you'd have to hold it until it dried. There are also more standard glues that might work, but you'd have to find a way to vise the thing until it dried, and cardboard is kind of absorptive. Absorption probably isn't a problem, as the glue isn't going on the cardboard. I'm lining these using colored duct tapes. This is the blog post I'm using for the idea: http://karenkavett.com/blog/1650/di...ine-holders.php Marchegiana posted:What I would probably do in this case is just put a few dots of glue down (like one dot at each end and one in the center), use those to tack the pieces together, then go back and reinforce the entire seams with the hot glue at your leisure. Yeah, that's an idea...
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| # ? May 2, 2013 22:03 |
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If you're covering everything in duct tape, why don't you just tape the whole thing together? 
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| # ? May 2, 2013 23:26 |
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Mizufusion posted:If you're covering everything in duct tape, why don't you just tape the whole thing together? In my experience, using tape (even duct) to fasten things at a 90 angle doesn't work incredibly well, and I need these holders to be more sturdy. I got it assembled last night, and it came out well. I'll post pictures once I get my label printed. (Going to get it done at Office Depot or something, since it's going to be all black, which would kill my ink.) Edit: Any recommendations for your favorite place to get things printed? I'm thinking of getting one glossy page printed with multiple 'face plates' made up. These labels have the books' logo, the 'volume' number (I'm making holders for my Batgirl collection, which will be split between two holders, so I'll have a volume I and II), principle creators on the collection, and the issue numbers. Revol fucked around with this message at May 3, 2013 around 13:59 |
| # ? May 3, 2013 12:29 |
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When I was in art school, we got things printed at Walmart. We got surprisingly crisp prints there. But ymmv.
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| # ? May 3, 2013 16:49 |
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foxatee posted:When I was in art school, we got things printed at Walmart. We got surprisingly crisp prints there. But ymmv. Huh! Never thought about Walmart. And I'm planning to go there anyways today, got a gift card from work that I was going to turn in for Nintendo eShop cash.
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| # ? May 3, 2013 17:07 |
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| # ? May 20, 2013 11:29 |
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Done! Went more in-depth on the project in BSS.
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| # ? May 3, 2013 23:05 |
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