|
I got a run around when I noticed it on my 2G like 7 years ago. They complained about the clutch, and all the "hot tuner mods" or whatever. I asked them what a clutch has to do with a transfer case leak and they made up all sorts of stories. I decided to just buy another seal and cram it in with some RTV sealant.
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2011 05:23
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 27, 2024 04:46 |
|
|
That balljoint bolt is the same on the Stealth/3000GT and I fully understand. Axle jobs, engine swaps, ball joint removal and just trying to get more room are all a bitch. I recommend a giant prybar instead of a hammer though, just watch out for snapback.
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2011 14:26
|
|
|
the_paradigm_shift posted:That balljoint bolt is the same on the Stealth/3000GT and I fully understand. Axle jobs, engine swaps, ball joint removal and just trying to get more room are all a bitch. I recommend a giant prybar instead of a hammer though, just watch out for snapback. Yeah I use a picklefork to get it most of the way off, then a huge long pry bar and a big hammer to get it the rest of the way. I learned to work on cars with this one over the last decade, so there are still remnants of many mistakes from the early days.
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2011 19:37
|
|
|
I wanted to throw in another couple parts places: http://www.mitsubishiparts.net/ for OEM parts. Seems to be the new "go-to" after Conicelli stopped selling Mitsubishi parts. RussellM on evolutionM.net runs or is involved with the site and has been very helpful finding parts and with technical things. http://www.mitsubishigraveyard.com/ for junkyard parts that you can't find anywhere else or are just too lazy to look. I've always talked to Mike there and have had good experiences dealing with them. Maker Of Shoes posted:Please note that the NT in 2GNT stands for Non Turbo. I'm pretty sure the Admin team there weeded out the turbo specific stuff from their CAPS database. Edit: Obviously if the part isn't GST/X/TSi specific then that site will work out great for you. WinCAPS, while pretty terrible from a usability standpoint, is what I use to find part numbers for all DSMs. Sometimes you have to do a little guessing on where some parts are hiding if you're browsing for part numbers http://www.stealth316.com/2-wincaps.htm (download) BoostCreep posted:I have the feeling that list will continue to grow... Any specific reason for the 2600? After putting one in my Talon, I can't really recommend it for daily driving. It's just too heavy when there are other manufacturer's pressure plates out there that have comparable clamping force without giving you a workout. If you want to go big on brakes, PM me about the AP Racing 4-pot kit that's taking up space in my basement. Big Nubbins fucked around with this message at 20:48 on Apr 5, 2011 |
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2011 20:00
|
|
|
greasy digits posted:I wanted to throw in another couple parts places: Thanks! I really need to add this stuff to the original post and guide this thread towards more of a DSM general thread rather than just a project thread. Hopefully I can do that some time tonight. greasy digits posted:I can already tell you that you're going to want to add water pump, OEM throw-out bearing, clutch fork, clutch fork fulcrum ball, and possibly flywheel hardware. While you're in there, may as well replace your main and half-shaft seals since they're cheap. Probably want to add a Zeitronix or Innovate wideband eventually too, if you plan on doing any useful tuning with DSMLink. I think I grouped the TOB in with the clutch and the water and oil pump in with the timing belt components. I'm also doing a complete rebuild of the engine, including all seals. Good call though, I should separate all the items out individually so I don't forget anything. And I'll definitely be getting a wideband for DSMlink. Which reminds me that I need to drill and tap the manifold... Crap, also just remembered the balance shaft eliminator kit. Ooh and front axles too... yep, the list keeps growing. greasy digits posted:Any specific reason for the 2600? After putting one in my Talon, I can't really recommend it for daily driving. It's just too heavy when there are other manufacturer's pressure plates out there that have comparable clamping force without giving you a workout. If you want to go big on brakes, PM me about the AP Racing 4-pot kit that's taking up space in my basement. I bought this car stock with 82k miles on it in 2001 with a slipping clutch, and the first thing I did was replace the stocker with an ACT 2600. I've just become accustomed to driving it with that clutch and it takes some serious abuse without giving up the ghost. What clutch would you recommend? I have been out of the DSM world for over half a decade, so I'm sure there have been improvements during my absence.
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2011 23:29
|
|
|
I've been out of the DSM game for a bit now too but I have the 2600 and love it, its fine for daily driving. Just gets to be a pain in if your in stop and go traffic for a while. My car is around 450whp, has been for 3 years or so. Plenty of tuning pulls, drag racing and launches. If your going higher then 600whp or so I would look into quartermaster twin disc setups and the like. But my next big thing whenever that is will be switching to a automatic.
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2011 23:45
|
|
|
BoostCreep posted:I bought this car stock with 82k miles on it in 2001 with a slipping clutch, and the first thing I did was replace the stocker with an ACT 2600. I've just become accustomed to driving it with that clutch and it takes some serious abuse without giving up the ghost. What clutch would you recommend? I have been out of the DSM world for over half a decade, so I'm sure there have been improvements during my absence. If you're already used to the 2600 feel, I'd stick with it. I actually really like the one in my Talon. It bites hard and the discs holds up better than with the 2100. I had a 2100 that started slipping after 4 years of spirited driving and a few launches. I should've qualified my previous statement by adding that I wouldn't recommend it to someone upgrading from stock, didn't want a "heavy" clutch, or who wasn't planning on making decent power. Supposedly the Centerforce DF with the 2500# pressure plate has a stock feel, and is perfect for power levels that the 16g is capable of. It gets a bad rap for having a short life, but it's most likely that it wasn't broken in properly, or the flywheel wasn't stepped properly, or was abused. I've never owned one, so take that with a grain of salt. You can't really go wrong with the 2600 otherwise. Obviously you can further improve clutch feel by replacing the accumulator and rubber lines with a SS line straight to the slave, and removing the restrictor from the slave cylinder. The latter will run you a higher risk of shocking the driveline, but as long as you don't work the clutch like an rear end in a top hat, you're fine. The more "direct" engagement feel is nice. I only mentioned TOB because I'm used to posting that in DSMTuners anytime anyone mentions getting an ACT clutch. Sorry if I didn't give you credit where it's due; call it muscle memory. The ACT TOB is notorious for falling apart during service since parts of it are made of plastic 
Big Nubbins fucked around with this message at 15:50 on Apr 6, 2011 |
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2011 15:45
|
|
|
greasy digits posted:I should've qualified my previous statement by adding that I wouldn't recommend it to someone upgrading from stock, didn't want a "heavy" clutch, I don't know what you sissies are talking about with the 2600 being a "heavy" clutch,... Hey, why am I walking in a circle? greasy digits posted:The ACT TOB is notorious for falling apart during service since parts of it are made of plastic This. I got to spend about $900 getting my transmission R&R'ed to replace a throwout bearing that decided that life just wasn't worth living any more. I made sure the shop bought a bearing from Mitsubishi.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2011 18:39
|
|
|
greasy digits posted:Any specific reason for the 2600? After putting one in my Talon, I can't really recommend it for daily driving. It's just too heavy when there are other manufacturer's pressure plates out there that have comparable clamping force without giving you a workout. If you want to go big on brakes, PM me about the AP Racing 4-pot kit that's taking up space in my basement. What size rotors? Would they fit a 2G?
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2011 18:59
|
|
|
Sup BoostCreep. I'm Christ on ladsm.com Thought I recognized that huge picker from your thread over there. Might as well introduce my DSM I got a 97 GSX, second owner.  
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2011 20:00
|
|
|
soup_ignorant posted:Sup BoostCreep. I'm Christ on ladsm.com Thought I recognized that huge picker from your thread over there. Hey man, beautiful GSX. I was wondering if there would be some crossover between AI and LADSM. Welcome to the thread. I'm doing my best to make it to a LADSM meet. I've been crazy busy with work and between that and wrenching on the Talon/Jeep I don't get much free time. I'm aiming to have the Talon back on the road next month though after its 6 year hiatus.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2011 21:32
|
|
|
BoostCreep posted:Hey man, beautiful GSX. I was wondering if there would be some crossover between AI and LADSM. Welcome to the thread. I'm doing my best to make it to a LADSM meet. I've been crazy busy with work and between that and wrenching on the Talon/Jeep I don't get much free time. I'm aiming to have the Talon back on the road next month though after its 6 year hiatus. Crossover from NWDSM here. Unfortunately, about the only time we talk now is when someone gets exploited and spams the few people that are left on the list.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2011 22:30
|
|
|
I honestly like DSMTuners a lot, they've been very helpful to me.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2011 22:38
|
|
|
I hate this thread. I miss my DSMs so much.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2011 23:12
|
|
|
Super Aggro Crag posted:I honestly like DSMTuners a lot, they've been very helpful to me. Yeah, they've grown up quite a bit since the old days when they started.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2011 23:52
|
|
|
Super Aggro Crag posted:I honestly like DSMTuners a lot, they've been very helpful to me. Octopus Magic posted:What size rotors? Would they fit a 2G? Edit: I never ended up selling my car as I said a few pages back. The guy that was interested ended up buying his old Talon back since he couldn't wait for me to fix a problem with mine. A few days later, he got run off the road into a guardrail by a semi that merged without yielding, crunching up the back of the car. I so happen to need a hood and bumper, and would love to swap the boring 2G "sea of gray" interior with the two-tone. Bonus that it's the 97 "2gb" body style. I should be able to get his car sans engine for a few hundred bucks 
Big Nubbins fucked around with this message at 00:15 on Apr 7, 2011 |
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2011 00:05
|
|
|
really really interested in those, aim me at some point. Would probably get my 2G (partly) back on the road....
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2011 00:57
|
|
|
Super Aggro Crag posted:I honestly like DSMTuners a lot, they've been very helpful to me. I remember when they just started and people called it Tooners because DSMtalk was where the cool guys hung out. It has grown up quite a bit. Though I was a moderator on 2GNT.com during my early 420a days, and those sites weren't very friendly to the NT guys back then. Ah the memories... I actually joined SA just because of the fact that everyone in AI is from a different background and it isn't always a circle jerk of how awesome our one chosen car platform is.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2011 01:14
|
|
|
Okay, so I did something really dumb today and want to know how much damage I just did to my car and/or how to fix it. I was attempting to change the transmission fluid today. What I thought was the drain plug was actually the fill plug (17mm bolt on the front of the transmission). What I thought was the fill plug (19mm bolt on top of the transmission) was not and I have no clue what it is. I dumped about a quart and a half of tranny fluid into it before I realized that it wasn't it. On the plus side, I finally found the legit drain plug and drained a little over a quart of nasty, grimy and smelly tranny fluid. No metal shavings were on the plug, so I guess that's a good thing.
|
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2011 19:15
|
|
|
Super Aggro Crag posted:Okay, so I did something really dumb today and want to know how much damage I just did to my car and/or how to fix it. A picture might help.
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2011 08:23
|
|
|
You do know that removing the balljoints are dead easy to femove, you need a wedge or a large cold chisel. Undo the nut so its level with the top of the balljoint and you use the cold chisel as a wedge between the driveshaft and the Balljoint. A Sledgehammer helps. Also I found the transfer leak has also to do with the exhaust proximity to the transfer case, So a nice new seal and a hoseclamp with the screw side towards the transfer case so it cant get too close works a treat. Kaptainballistik fucked around with this message at 12:44 on Apr 11, 2011 |
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2011 12:41
|
|
|
MikeyTsi posted:A picture might help. I'll take a picture when I get home from work if its not raining out.
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2011 14:08
|
|
|
Super Aggro Crag posted:Okay, so I did something really dumb today and want to know how much damage I just did to my car and/or how to fix it. By any chance was it this bolt? It's on the front (closest to the bell housing) of the transmission on the side closest to you if you're in front of the car, on top, and if memory serves, is about the right size that you're describing. It's got a ball and spring integrated, and it's there to restrict movement of the reverse shift lever. Otherwise it's possible you can end up with 4th and reverse engaged simultaneously. As long as you put everything back as it was, you're fine. I'd make sure you can still get into and out of reverse cleanly. While you can fill the transmission from this hole, obviously you're not meant to. 
Big Nubbins fucked around with this message at 17:11 on Apr 11, 2011 |
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2011 17:06
|
|
|
Here is the bolt in question. Let's hope I didn't gently caress up my car.
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2011 22:03
|
|
|
I've been doing a lot of research on the components I want for my engine build and came across some interesting info. I was going to go with 2g OEM pistons for their 8.5 compression when I stumbled across some articles discussing the pistons from the Evo 9. The Evo 9 pistons are 8.8:1 compression and bolt right into 7 bolt blocks and fit in 6 bolt blocks with some light machining (same as fitting 2g pistons to 6 bolt rods). The cool thing about the Evo 9 pistons other than the higher CR is that the top of the piston is made of forged aluminum. So basically you get a half forged piston with some slick coating on the sides to help prevent wear and a very cost effective price which is just a hair more expensive than cast 2g pistons. Not a bad deal. Pic courtesy of DSM Graveyard:  Comparison video between 2G, Evo 8, and Evo 9 pistons, again courtesy of DSM Graveyard: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P9SPaYI3_wY&feature=player_embedded I've also been having a lot of trouble finding local machine shops that have any experience with the 4G63. The first two places I called, which I am sure are very competent judging by their Yelp rating, have never heard of the Eagle brand of cars and mostly work with GM and Ford V6s and V8s. I have been quoted between $1,500 to $1,800 for machine work alone (not including parts) on my head and block, which sounds very expensive for what I need done. So I am considering going with a vendor like DSM Graveyard where I can send my block and head to have them do the proper machining, and I know (hope) it will be right because that is all they do. I can get their "Frankenstein" stage 1 head for $550 and block for $1,600, and their "crate motor kit", which is all the timing components, oil pump and front case, water pump, gasket set, and all that good stuff for $550. That way I can assemble the engine myself and not have to pay the extra premium for someone else to get my cam gears lined up correctly. So far I've not seen anything bad about the Frankenstein engines, so hopefully I won't be shooting myself in the foot for going that route. I have heard that they take a long time to turn around builds, but I have plenty of other stuff to budget and purchase before this car can be put back on the road anyway. Frankenstein block info: New Reconditioned 6 Bolt Turbo Crankshaft All New Bearings ACL/Clevite Completely Machined and Hot Tanked Block New OEM 2G 8.5 Pistons (Upgrade to Evo 9 for $100) New OEM 2G Evo (Large Diameter) Wrist Pins New Sealed Power Chrome Piston Rings New ARP Rod Bolts New OEM Main Bolts Aline Honed and Reconditioned Big Rods New OEM Freeze Plugs Completely Assembled - Ready for Build Free Custom Frankenstein Spark Plug Cover Shipped Fed Ex Insured 3 Month Warranty!! Head info: Hot Tank and Check for Cracks All Cylinder Heads Resurfaced Bead Blasted Castings!! New Graveyard Motorsports Racing Valves New Graveyard Motorsports Viton Seals New Manley Stage 1 Springs (8000 Redline) New SBI Valve Guides Custom 5 Valve Job!! 3 Angle On Seats, 2 On Valve I need to make some phone calls on Monday, but this seems to be the best bang for the buck as far as rebuilds go, but I fear shipping costs may offset those savings.
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2011 10:24
|
|
|
BoostCreep posted:I fear shipping costs may offset those savings. Even if they do I imagine it would be worth the peace of mind knowing that someone familiar with your engine components is going to work on them as opposed to Joe Blow FAAAVHUNNNNERRRHORSE.
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2011 20:40
|
|
|
No question... go with the guys that know your engine.
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2011 23:41
|
|
|
BoostCreep posted:
The Eagle brand hasn't existed for around 13 years now, and it wasn't a brand that had a lot of "classics" that anyone cared about. Call it a Mitsubishi when you talk to people.
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2011 06:06
|
|
|
MikeyTsi posted:The Eagle brand hasn't existed for around 13 years now, and it wasn't a brand that had a lot of "classics" that anyone cared about. Call it a Mitsubishi when you talk to people. Yeah the only way they even found the correct engine was by looking up a 91 GSX. Another shop I called tried telling me the 4g63 is an AMC engine. I think I will just stick to the DSM specialty shops for this type of work.
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2011 07:07
|
|
|
Honestly, with you living in the LA area (judging from OP) I would call Road/Race Engineering @ (562) 777-1522 and speak with them. They probably aren't the cheapest, but that have been in the DSM game for more than a decade. I've never heard anything bad about them and I do buy parts from them when I need something. They even have a deal worked out with a local Mitsu dealer so they can get better than average prices on OEM parts. EDIT: I am having issues with my LC-1 install and hate my TSi right now.
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2011 07:12
|
|
|
BoostCreep posted:Yeah the only way they even found the correct engine was by looking up a 91 GSX. Another shop I called tried telling me the 4g63 is an AMC engine. I think I will just stick to the DSM specialty shops for this type of work. Wasn't the eagle brand made out of what was left of AMC? I don't remember too well what happened after Chrysler bought them. Still, you're right, go with the guys that know what they're doing.
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2011 07:20
|
|
|
thvwlshvscpd posted:Honestly, with you living in the LA area (judging from OP) I would call Road/Race Engineering @ (562) 777-1522 and speak with them. They probably aren't the cheapest, but that have been in the DSM game for more than a decade. I've never heard anything bad about them and I do buy parts from them when I need something. RRE was my first thought. I've been buying stuff from them since 2000 as well, but I called them and emailed them and they haven't gotten back to me. It seems unless you are good buds with them or you are ready to drop a huge chunk of change, they don't exactly bend over backwards to help you. Which is funny, because I do need to spend a bit of cash to get this car back on the road. I still plan on buying my clutch, flywheel, cat, and a bunch of other stuff from them. RRE doesn't have their own machine shop though anyway, so it's not a big deal.
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2011 07:49
|
|
|
BoostCreep posted:RRE was my first thought. I've been buying stuff from them since 2000 as well, but I called them and emailed them and they haven't gotten back to me. It seems unless you are good buds with them or you are ready to drop a huge chunk of change, they don't exactly bend over backwards to help you. Which is funny, because I do need to spend a bit of cash to get this car back on the road. I still plan on buying my clutch, flywheel, cat, and a bunch of other stuff from them. RRE doesn't have their own machine shop though anyway, so it's not a big deal. Lucas English (Camas, WA) is a great guy for DSM work. I'd go to him all the time if it weren't for the fact that it's a 2-3 hour drive to get to his shop.
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2011 08:33
|
|
|
BoostCreep posted:RRE was my first thought. I've been buying stuff from them since 2000 as well, but I called them and emailed them and they haven't gotten back to me.
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2011 18:55
|
|
|
BoostCreep posted:Head info:
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2011 23:13
|
|
|
As Nero Danced posted:Wasn't the eagle brand made out of what was left of AMC? I don't remember too well what happened after Chrysler bought them. Still, you're right, go with the guys that know what they're doing. Eagle was Chrysler's punishment from buying Jeep/AMC from Renault in 1987. They usually sold Mitsubishi Rebadges, but also sold the Renualt Medallion, The Eagle Premier(which was a mutant Renault 25), and the Vision(Cab-Forward car). The 300M was to be an Eagle, too.
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2011 00:38
|
|
|
Left Ventricle posted:I am completely clueless when it comes to DSMs specifically, but isn't hot tanking bad for aluminum engine components? Doesn't it, like, eat away at it or something? You can hot tank aluminum depending on the solution they use, sandblasting it is bad for it though. Muffinpox fucked around with this message at 02:22 on Apr 19, 2011 |
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2011 02:18
|
|
|
I just got off the phone with Mike W. at Road Race. After a decade of ordering parts from him, I finally got a chance to have a chat. He seems like a really nice guy, and very knowledgeable, which goes without saying. I called to get some information, mainly the fact that RRE sells a J-pipe to connect a 14B/16G outlet to a stock side mount intercooler location for 2G DSMs, but I need one that faces towards the driver side of the car for my FMIC. He said he can probably put the J-pipe on a shop car and just bend it in the right direction for me. I love the way he thinks. So other than that, I ordered some parts which will hopefully start coming in next week. Ordered: From Buschur Racing: AEM UEGO Wideband A/F controller and gauge Machined Aluminum DSM shifter bushings 2G Knock Sensor OEM Mitsubishi Head Gasket Injector O-Ring Kit (mine are toast) From Road Race: RRE "No Name" Flywheel ACT 2600 PP with street disc SS braided clutch line 1g AWD High Flow Cat 4 Layer Heavy Duty exhaust manifold gasket 7cm turbo Gasket BG Syncro Shift - 3 quarts (transmission lube) Red Line Heavy Weight Shock Proof Lube - 1 quart (for transfer case and rear diff) Red Line Friction Modifier - 4 ounces (for rear diff with LSD) Red Line Water Wetter "The J Pipe" 90 Degree Elbow to I/C (2 of these for lower IC piping) 2 1/4" HD Rubber hose and clamps Turbo oil drain gaskets (2) Exhaust manifold to turbo gasket (6cm housing) From eBay: I found a Galant VR-4 Eprom ECU that has already been socketed and has fresh caps installed for $130. Score. Still left to order this week: Speed density cables and sensors (IAT and MAP). This will let me remove the MAS from my car entirely. Timing components, water pump, full gasket kit, etc. And I need to package up my head and block to send out to the DSM shop in Michigan to get the machining taken care of. That will happen tomorrow morning. BoostCreep fucked around with this message at 04:11 on Apr 22, 2011 |
|
#
?
Apr 22, 2011 02:32
|
|
|
I am assuming you are not going with v3 Lite since you are going with speed density. Full v3 has better resolution on the load/ignition and load fuel maps. Especially once you get the load over 2.0.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2011 05:29
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 27, 2024 04:46 |
|
|
thvwlshvscpd posted:I am assuming you are not going with v3 Lite since you are going with speed density. Full v3 has better resolution on the load/ignition and load fuel maps. Especially once you get the load over 2.0. Honestly the last tuning I've done to my DSM was 6 years ago with an SAFC2 (blue screen) and a PocketLogger on an '01 model Palm Pilot. I did get the Lite version, because I figure it will be enough to set up SD on a 14B until I pony up for a ported and clipped Evo3 16G, at which point I can start worrying about min/maxing my fuel maps. I did a ton of searching through DSM forums and people seem to be running SD without a problem on big turbos and V3 Lite, so I figured what the hell? It costs the exact same to upgrade to the full version as buying it in the first place, so if it looks like I need that at a later point I will make the switch. The only thing I saw from ECM Tuning concerning the differences is that V3 Lite maxes out at 8,000rpm and 26psi while V3 full allows tuning to 10,000rpm and 40psi. Since I will be running at most the 16G on CA 91 octane, I assumed the Lite version would be sufficient. Do you have any links or articles about how the full V3 is better than Lite for SD? I'd love to catch up on 6 years of advancements in DSM tuning.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2011 06:35
|
|