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Bulk Vanderhuge posted:Honest opinion, is this thing worth it? They've always done this, huh? I did the alternator in my ex girlfriend's 4g GT. It looks clean from the outside, but the passenger's side strut tower has light shining through it. Whatever, the 4g is just a faster, manual transmission equipped Dodge Stratus, anyway.
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May 14, 2011 20:54
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Bulk Vanderhuge posted:Honest opinion, is this thing worth it? Ehhhhh... better go look in person. $1700 seems pretty low for an AWD 2G.
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May 14, 2011 21:02
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ACEofsnett posted:They've always done this, huh? I did the alternator in my ex girlfriend's 4g GT. It looks clean from the outside, but the passenger's side strut tower has light shining through it. The 1st gen cars have a bead of silicone that runs the length of every exposed sheet metal seam in the engine bay. This prevented the exposed edges that don't get a lot of paint to be better protected from rust. Mitsubishi decided with the 2g cars that they could save money by removing this feature and left the 2g cars without this silicone. The cars unfortunate enough to be brought to states with a lot of rain, snow, and salt ended up rusting through the strut towers in a matter of years. It sounds like they continued this tradition of poor craftsmanship all the way to the 4th gen eclipse.
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May 14, 2011 22:08
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Some 16 year old kid and his older brother just randomly rang my door bell asking about my Eclipse. The older brother was a mechanic and owned a 1G and 2G so he knew what he is getting into. Showed them both everything that was new or bad about it. Told him to come back with $2,000 cash and its his.
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May 15, 2011 18:15
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Super Aggro Crag posted:Some 16 year old kid and his older brother just randomly rang my door bell asking about my Eclipse. The older brother was a mechanic and owned a 1G and 2G so he knew what he is getting into. Showed them both everything that was new or bad about it. Told him to come back with $2,000 cash and its his. I've had random people show up and ask me about my car, and I'm not selling mine. I don't get it sometimes.
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May 15, 2011 18:27
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I was thinking about putting it up on Craigslist, but this kid just showed up. He said he lives a few streets over so I'm assuming he drove by it every day for the past 6 months and has seen it in the same spot. EDIT: Decided to put it up on Craigslist --> http://westernmass.craigslist.org/cto/2382721365.html Super Aggro Crag fucked around with this message at 20:56 on May 15, 2011 |
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May 15, 2011 18:31
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Small update: I got my head and block back from the machine shop on Monday. I need to take some better pictures, but here is the block:  Small recap: 2.3L bored .020 over Wiseco forged pistons, 8.5:1 Eagle rods New OEM Mitsu oil pump and front case, balance shafts removed ACL bearings Brian Crower springs and retainers SS Nitrided swirl polished and back cut valves, 1mm oversized New valve guides, seals, etc ARP hardware throughout I'm pretty excited, but it ended up costing a lot more than I thought it would, so it's going to be a little while before I can afford to order the next round of parts. I ordered parts from Buschur, including the headgasket, AEM UEGO, etc, but they never billed me and it never shipped. So I need to reorder that stuff along with the brake lines and rotors. Everything else I was planning will be put off until the car is running again. I am planning on trailering the car to RRE to have it broken in on their dyno while it gets tuned. Seems like the best bet.
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May 25, 2011 20:59
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I think your turbo is going to spool so quick it is dumb. At least until you can get something larger on the car.
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May 26, 2011 02:52
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thvwlshvscpd posted:I think your turbo is going to spool so quick it is dumb. At least until you can get something larger on the car. You are right. The plan is to put the 14b on there at first until the engine is broken in properly and I get the car past the ludicrous CARB SMOG poo poo in CA. Then I'll be swapping back to the Green. But yeah, I've been told that the combination of the ported stock turbo with the 3" exhaust and 2.3L 8.5 CR pistons will basically remove all lag from the turbo. Who knows, maybe it will be so torquey that I won't need a larger turbo for road race/autocross purposes.
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May 26, 2011 04:17
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Just to throw it out there, I did my second Prothane master bushing kit. The job sucks. I hope to not do it again. I have the two lower control arms on the front of the car to do. The rest have been done.
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Jun 13, 2011 17:54
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thvwlshvscpd posted:Just to throw it out there, I did my second Prothane master bushing kit. The job sucks. I hope to not do it again. I have the two lower control arms on the front of the car to do. The rest have been done. I'll probably just pay someone to do that horrible job on mine when the time comes (hopefully soon).
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Jun 13, 2011 21:41
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That ported 14b will run out of steam at 18-20psi and will be moving the same amount of air that the Green would at ~10psi. Probably see the same amount of airflow at the same RPM, too. I'd just go with the Green as soon as you're done breaking it in (or turn the boost all the way down on the Green. Heavy accel, motor decel.
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Jun 13, 2011 22:56
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Nait Sirhc posted:That ported 14b will run out of steam at 18-20psi and will be moving the same amount of air that the Green would at ~10psi. Probably see the same amount of airflow at the same RPM, too. I'd just go with the Green as soon as you're done breaking it in (or turn the boost all the way down on the Green. Heavy accel, motor decel. Plans right now are to go with the 14b just to get it on the road and broken in, then swapping pretty much right away to the green. While I'm in this thread, here is a tiny update...  No, it's not running. I moved out of my girlfriend's place this weekend and had to move the paperweight. I ended up towing it to my office where my business partner keeps his project in the garage there. It's a tight fit, but it is still a lot more room to work than the even smaller garage that it has been stored in since November.  (bonus laser eye pic of my dog) I have everything I need to get the build done now except for the MLS headgasket, 2G style front SS brake lines, wideband, and the flywheel/pressure plate that the machine shop needed to balance everything and then forgot to give me. I took apart the driver side front end to see how bad the damage is from the accident a decade ago. It's not pretty  The rest of the car is in such amazing shape, (that is flawless factory 20 year old paint, just really dirty), and the interior is immaculate, but it really requires quite a bit of work to get the front end fixed. I'm going back and forth on selling the chassis and tranny and putting the fresh engine into something like this: which is a 1973 Dodge Colt which was really just a rebadged Mitsubishi Galant imported for Chrysler. It would be such a blast with the 2.3 4G63 and RWD. It will be a bitch to find a clean one though. They didn't sell very well and they were pretty much thought of as disposable. But I'd love to get one that exact color and mutilate it with a "modern" turbo engine and some sort of transmission that doesn't require a transfer case. I haven't decided what to do. I've had this Talon for 11 years and it'd be a shame to sell it to someone who most likely will part it and crush it. But it does require as much money to fix as I could probably buy a Colt and I wouldn't have to worry about SMOG issues. What to do, what to do....
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Jun 14, 2011 04:24
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BoostCreep posted:...and some sort of transmission that doesn't require a transfer case. Like a GM auto? I'll just leave this here: https://secure.buschurracing.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=22_98 Additionally, they make an adapter plate for GM 5-speeds for the Evo 4G63. No reason besides cost you couldn't have one fabbed for a 1G though. 
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Jun 17, 2011 15:43
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Almost positive someone makes a adapter plate for a 1g 4G63 / GM tranny A friend has always wanted to do a full out drag conquest and we always talked about it with a GM tranny fake edit, that may be for the conquest 4g63 or 64. Either way, yea do that.
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Jun 18, 2011 06:59
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https://secure.buschurracing.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=975 They do!
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Jun 19, 2011 04:02
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Hey guys, quick question (but first a little background). My 1G Eclipse's frame is rusted out. I have about $2,500 in brand new parts in it so I'm looking for a rust free 1G so I can use mine as a parts car. I came across a black one that the owner claims is rust free. From the pictures it looks like its built well, 16G, FMIC, boost controller, etc and he also said it has a 2 year old paint job. He's willing to let it go for $2,800 and he claims everything runs perfectly except that he left in the old clutch throw out bearing when putting in a new clutch. I'm still new to cars and haven't done any transmission or clutch work yet, so I'm not too familiar with what exactly it is. Will the car break apart on the drive home? Is it a PITA (or expensive) to replace that one part?
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Jun 28, 2011 01:50
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Throw out shouldn't keep you from driving it home. People drive for a long time on noisy ones. Its a easy job, and cheap if your doing the wrenching. Probably a few hundred in labor for a shop. Its easy enough to drop this transmission, though you will probably need help and then its just taking old one out and install new. I bought my car on the cheap with a broken clutch fork, having never done much and changed it in 2 nights with a few hours work each night. Made me feel great and gave me the confidence to continue working on bigger projects. streetlamp fucked around with this message at 02:41 on Jun 28, 2011 |
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Jun 28, 2011 02:05
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Sometimes people will tell you there is a slight problem or something that seems easy to fix, so when you take the car for a test drive and notice something sounds or feels weird, you just think that is the problem. Then in actuality it's actually a much worse problem that they can then claim they knew nothing about. A TOB is attached to the clutch fork and slides along the input shaft of the transmission. Its job is to mate the spinning pressure plate to the stationary clutch fork via a rotating bearing. A worn TOB would chatter at idle and then become quiet once you press the clutch pedal or put the tranny into gear. They are relatively cheap, and you should always put in a new one (preferably OEM) when replacing a clutch. Many aftermarket ones have a plastic surface that wears out extremely fast, especially when doing AWD launches. It's not that big a deal, but if it's bad enough for the guy to mention it to you, you might be wary of other things he's done to the car. In my prime I could swap an AWD tranny in under 3 hours start to finish if the bolts aren't rusted using hand tools and jack stands, but it's not a fun job by any means.
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Jun 28, 2011 02:26
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Thanks for the info. It looks like someone is about to buy it, and I'm actually a few weeks short of having enough money for his offering price anyways. I just got excited because all the 1G DSMs around here are rotted out, riced out or both.
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Jun 28, 2011 02:32
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Where are you located by chance? Thinking of selling mine but if rust is a big concern you are probably a decent ways away.
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Jun 28, 2011 02:40
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streetlamp posted:Where are you located by chance? Thinking of selling mine but if rust is a big concern you are probably a decent ways away. Western Massachusetts. My car seriously rusted out this winter just from sitting in the driveway. But to be fair we had a ridiculous winter and snow was sitting a couple feet above my car's roof for a few months. The used car market here is ridiculous in general. For $3,000 you can buy a 15+ year old car with over 150,000 miles. I've seen 10 year old cars with 200,000 miles selling on Craigslist for $8,000.
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Jun 28, 2011 02:43
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If you happen to venture down to VA, here is a brief description of the car http://textsnip.com/ca7bdc/ http://imgur.com/9Jzyp
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Jun 28, 2011 03:03
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So I didn't really mention it while I owned it, but I had an '03 Evo. When I got it was super exciting and seemingly in good shape, but as time wore on, it had clearly been beaten on like the DSM stereotype. The clutch was insanely bucky, the front end collision it'd been in was only so-so repaired, and there was rust under the door frame paint, somehow. I would love to have a pristine Evo, but I think that car (which took me a while to find) has scared me straight for life. I can't imagine how hard it must be for DSMs. Still, that thing kicked rear end when you put the pedal down. Super Aggro Crag posted:The used car market here is ridiculous in general. For $3,000 you can buy a 15+ year old car with over 150,000 miles. I've seen 10 year old cars with 200,000 miles selling on Craigslist for $8,000. Do you want to buy my beater Crown Vic? Not great on gas obviously, but needs nothing.
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Jun 28, 2011 03:47
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streetlamp posted:If you happen to venture down to VA, here is a brief description of the car If you read this, sign on AIM tomorrow around 5:00PM. I was thinking about visiting my friends down in NC this summer, so I'm interested. Super Aggro Crag fucked around with this message at 03:56 on Jun 28, 2011 |
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Jun 28, 2011 03:54
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I changed my valve cover gasket out to try and fix an oil leak. Apparently not leaking is not a possibility for this car. I am now leaking oil around the turbo oil feed inlet.  I am still planning on driving to the Shootout though. I just need to get this sorted out in the next three weeks.
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Jul 15, 2011 00:41
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thvwlshvscpd posted:I changed my valve cover gasket out to try and fix an oil leak. Apparently not leaking is not a possibility for this car. I am now leaking oil around the turbo oil feed inlet. Did the new gasket fix the VC leak? And is the oil leaking at the oil feed inlet on top of the turbo? You can buy very cheap copper washers from Mitsubishi and swap it out pretty easily. That is a notorious place for DSMs to leak oil, as well as the flimsy turbo drain pipe. Edit: By the way, I finally got my balanced flywheel and pressure plate back from the machine shop and my Mitsu MLS headgasket arrived along with new injector O rings and lower insulators. So I have all the parts for the physical build, now I am just waiting on my wideband gauge to have everything I need. Next step is degreasing and cleaning the engine parts that I am reusing, as well as the engine bay. BoostCreep fucked around with this message at 01:18 on Jul 15, 2011 |
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Jul 15, 2011 01:16
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Well I finally got time to make some progress on the build.  It's not much yet, but at least I got the head and block out of boxes, on the stand, and mated together. I also spent hours de-greasing the intake manifold, water pipes, thermostat housing, and a ton of other crap, as well as scraping about 5 pounds of old gaskets. I also learned that I need to transfer the studs from the old head to the new for stuff like the CAS and thermo housing. I also need to order new exhaust manifold studs and a bunch of bolts. When I moved out of my gf's place, I had one day to pack the car up and move it. I had the feeling I'd lose a bunch of bolts and it definitely happened. I would have gotten farther on the build yesterday but I can't find the bolts to the front case (all 12 of them), which amazingly are all different sizes and lengths. So I'll be placing an order for a shitload of bolts before I can continue assembling. BoostCreep fucked around with this message at 21:51 on Jul 24, 2011 |
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Jul 24, 2011 21:47
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Aircraft remover is your friend for de-gunking old parts.
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Jul 24, 2011 21:54
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Looks like you are making progress. I need to do something with mine soon. I still have not fixed the oil leak and I leave on a road trip in 16 days.
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Aug 1, 2011 04:47
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Started working on my 93 TSI FWD again yesterday. The car had made a god awful noise last time I started it (it's been sitting for a year, since I bought from previous owner, was only driven once to new resting place) so I decided to pull the starter and have a look. Well, the teeth on the starter are pretty ate up, and one of the holes was tapped and had a heli-coil inserted that was now backing out. I think I'm just going to replace the starter, but the ate up teeth have me concerned about my flywheel. Am I wrong in thinking there is an inspection hole with a cover on it for checking just such a thing? The transmission also feels like 5th gear and Reverse are missing, as if the slots are now reserved for neutral. I'm pretty sure it's just a bent shift fork, as this seems like a fairly common issue on 1Gbs. I'm not sure if it's worth replacing a shift fork in a questionable transmission, or just trying to pick up another one on the cheap from a junkyard, or maybe go all out and get one rebuilt. I really wanna skimp on spending too much on this transmission issue, as the final goal is an AWD shell swap once I have enough cash to do so, and would rather not get a jack or TRE or Shep transmission for a FWD. I dunno, love/hate this car. Starting to side with my girlfriend on the "hate" end more and more everyday, but gently caress do I wanna go smoke some unsuspecting victims in my Primer Grey talon.
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Aug 11, 2011 15:47
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So I drove to the Shootout for the second year in my TSi. I was going to caravan up with some people from Florida/South Carolina in South Carolina. I managed to find the last oil leak in my car after arriving in South Carolina to find I had lost two quarts of oil along the way. Oil pressure stayed stable, I didn't smell anything, but there was a hole in the turbo oil feed line. Thankfully no damage was done as I was keeping tabs on the oil level throughout the trip. I managed to have a new feed line made at a hydraulic shop and continued on my way with no other issues than driving 2500 miles in a car with no air conditioning.
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Aug 30, 2011 00:04
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Psionic Sasquatch posted:Am I wrong in thinking there is an inspection hole with a cover on it for checking just such a thing? You are correct. There is an inspection plate at the bottom of the transmission that sort of looks like a semi-circle. It attaches to the block with 3 little bolts. It's right where the transmission meets the oil pan. You can't miss it. Psionic Sasquatch posted:The transmission also feels like 5th gear and Reverse are missing, as if the slots are now reserved for neutral. I'm pretty sure it's just a bent shift fork, as this seems like a fairly common issue on 1Gbs. Since it is only affecting reverse and 5th, I'd bet it is the cables. Even if the shift fork is bent, the cables are adjustable with I believe two 10mm wrenches and you might be able to adjust it that way. I've had to do that when I had shifting problems in the past. I'd try that before diving into anything more complex. thvwlshvscpd posted:So I drove to the Shootout for the second year in my TSi. Well that is how the Shootout works. Glad to hear you made the drive from so far away. I am planning on driving to Ohio for the 20th annual Shootout from Los Angeles in my Talon. That should be around 4,000 miles round trip with a 3" exhaust resonating under my rear end. That'll be exciting. (Totally can't wait too). Plus it will be my 7th Shootout, 11 years since my first, and 6 years since my Talon has been there. On my first trip in 2001, there was a white '92 Talon in my Caravan that was burning and leaking so much oil that the back half of the car was completely black after his 600 mile drive from North Carolina. Nothing like DSMs trying to reliably drive several hundred miles together. If I recall, he still ran low 12's and made it home in one piece.
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Aug 30, 2011 19:38
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My first trip was with a bunch of guys I met on DSM forums. 3-4 of us total though I think. One of them rear ended the other one at a stop sign and jacked up both cars.
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Sep 1, 2011 00:09
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I just got a phone call with an offer to pick up a 96 2gnt with bent valves for free. I'm thinking $700 or so to make it run. Should I do it? Edit: Fixed year. th vwls hv scpd fucked around with this message at 00:30 on Sep 21, 2011 |
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Sep 20, 2011 23:44
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Uh no not really unless you just need a daily driver to puts around in. My first car was a 2Gnt and what a miserable car.
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Sep 21, 2011 00:07
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streetlamp posted:Uh no not really unless you just need a daily driver to puts around in. My first car was a 2Gnt and what a miserable car. I loved my last 2gnt. It was a lot more fun to drive than the TSi around turns. I really need coilovers. Anyway, I am throwing around the idea of fixing it and trying to flip it on CL for about $1500.
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Sep 21, 2011 00:32
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2Gs handle better because they don't have a godawful beam axle in the rear. Bend the beam and you can get some camber in the rear, which would help a bit. My 90 GST handled like absulute horseshit even with new suspension all around.
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Sep 21, 2011 16:36
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2Gs do at least have four wheel independent suspension. Not a whole lot of travel, but they can handle pretty well if you can work out the understeer issues. DSMs don't really have much of a reputation for turning since most of them are used for drag racing. I had a '99 2GNT and it was pretty fun once I put a turbo on there. If you can get one for free, go for it. Make it a DD or flip it. Either way you are doing pretty well for the money. As for my car, I only had a couple hours this weekend so I spent them degreasing and cleaning parts and getting the new front case installed. That oil filter housing was completely black with two decades of oil and dirt covering it. It's painfully slow building this thing with my schedule, but at least I am squeezing in time here and there when I can.  I'm hoping my schedule this weekend is open enough that I can get the engine finished. I still need exhaust manifold studs, but I can do pretty much everything else from oil pan to valve cover. It's so weird seeing shiny things on my DSM...
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Sep 27, 2011 02:15
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 Well, at least it's starting to look like an engine again. I have been plagued with missing bolts left and right. I had to get clever with the front case and water pump, and now I am missing the bolts for the timing belt auto tensioner. The good thing is that those are the last ones I need to get this side of the engine finished. I still have to transfer some of the studs from the old head to this one for the water neck, CAS, and intake manifold. And I need to order new exhaust manifold studs. But other than that, the engine will be complete and ready to go. That means I get to focus on the chassis next. Cleaning 20 years of grease and grime, installing new front axles, removing some sheared/rusted bolts, etc. Then I get to figure out how the hell to run my vacuum lines again after having them all removed for the last 10 years. So, things left to do: Engine - Get bolts for auto tensioner. - Install timing belt and finish buttoning up that side of the engine. (t-belt cover, pullies, alternator, PS pump, etc.) - Oil Pan (already cleaned, just waiting to get the engine off the stand so I can install the rear main seal. - Install the rear main seal. - Flywheel, clutch disc, pressure plate. - Transfer studs, install water neck, manifolds, CAS, coolant pipe, turbo, etc. - Valve cover and spark plug gaskets. - Swap "o" rings on the injectors and rail and pray my injectors still work. - Plumb vacuum lines. - Fix knock sensor that I ripped out of its plug like a moron. - Buy a new o2 sensor. Chassis: - Fix stripped and sheared bolts. Oh so many of them... - Clean engine bay. - Replace or rebuild front axles. - Inspect fuel tank and fuel pump for damage from sitting for 6 years. (not looking forward to this one) - Fuel filter - Install ECMLink, troubleshoot til the cows come home. - Put engine in car. - Fabricate new lower IC piping. - Clean and repaint upper IC piping. - Front big brake upgrade, SS lines, bleed the system. - SS Clutch line. - Fabricate new intake for the 14b. - Port the 14b so it doesn't boost creep like crazy. - Tune. - Get sick of the 14b after a few days and install the Green turbo. - Retune. There's still a lot to do. I know there's a lot I am forgetting.
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Oct 4, 2011 03:47
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