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The 1997 Galant with an automatic has a 90A alternator that is supposed to bolt up directly and be less expensive. Here is a quick thread on the topic. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/mai...b-question.html
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| # ? Feb 10, 2011 13:46 |
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| # ? May 24, 2013 22:43 |
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Yeah, when I replaced my alternator I used the 90A. It bolts right in. You just need to change the fusible link as well. Actually now that I think about it, I went to CAP and had them look up the Galant VR4 alternator, which was 90A and I used that one.
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| # ? Feb 10, 2011 16:47 |
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I'm currently debating on doing this with my 2g TSi right now. Glad to know that the GVR4 alternator bolts up as well.
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| # ? Feb 12, 2011 04:51 |
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Asking this for a friend. My friend has a 1G. He took it for an alignment, and now he thinks the suspension is loose or something because it makes a lot more noise than it used to. He also found a clip similar to this: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...N0250&ppt=C0362 on the floor except it had notches in it. Of course he promptly lost the clip after he couldn't find it in the FSM. What is the clip, where does it go, and is there anything he can check to make sure the alignment shop didn't gently caress up the suspension somehow? Thanks
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| # ? Feb 12, 2011 18:22 |
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Brigdh posted:Asking this for a friend. That is called a circlip, or c-clip. It goes on the end of the axle and holds the axle inside the transmission so it doesn't fall out when turning. His suspension is fine, he just needs to install that clip back onto the axle. It wouldn't surprise me if he actually needs to top off his transmission fluid too since it will leak without that clip keeping the axle hole plugged.   Since he lost the clip, he can probably order one from Mitsubishi directly for cheap. I'm seeing two part numbers, MB297888 and 32194c. It's possible that Mitsu doesn't make it anymore though and he might have to just order a new axle (which the car probably could use anyway.)
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| # ? Feb 12, 2011 19:38 |
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BoostCreep posted:That is called a circlip, or c-clip. It goes on the end of the axle and holds the axle inside the transmission so it doesn't fall out when turning. His suspension is fine, he just needs to install that clip back onto the axle. It wouldn't surprise me if he actually needs to top off his transmission fluid too since it will leak without that clip keeping the axle hole plugged. He says the clip he lost was more like 10, maybe 15 cm in diameter, the one you pointed out was only 3cm. Is there a different clip you can think of? Thanks Edit: He made a drawing in paint, hopefully it helps: 
Brigdh fucked around with this message at Feb 12, 2011 around 22:31 |
| # ? Feb 12, 2011 22:21 |
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Hey BoostCreep, I sent you a PM.
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| # ? Feb 12, 2011 22:38 |
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Brigdh posted:He says the clip he lost was more like 10, maybe 15 cm in diameter, the one you pointed out was only 3cm. Is there a different clip you can think of? That's a huge goddamn clip. The only thing I can think of that comes close is the circlip that holds the cartridge to the compressor housing on a 14B. Does it look like this (circled in pink)?  Shame Boner fucked around with this message at Feb 14, 2011 around 22:49 |
| # ? Feb 14, 2011 22:37 |
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Anyone have recommendations for a Mitsubishi online parts store? I'm looking for a few miscellaneous pieces, and not only can I not figure out the part numbers, I have no idea where to look for them. Ideally, the inventory would be by subsystem, with an image of the parts all exploded, like this: http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com...catcgry5=SWITCH
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| # ? Feb 26, 2011 19:23 |
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The c-clip only holds the axle from popping out of the differential against the load of the boot/grease/mechanical friction of the tripod joint. The dust/oil seal takes care of keeping the oil in the diff, not the axle retaining circlip.
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| # ? Feb 26, 2011 19:31 |
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kimbo305 posted:Anyone have recommendations for a Mitsubishi online parts store? http://www.mitsubishiparts.com If you have a 2g car, you can check out http://www.2gnt.com/CAPS to click through things.
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| # ? Feb 26, 2011 23:10 |
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jnztuning.com sells Mitsu parts as well.
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| # ? Feb 27, 2011 01:29 |
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thvwlshvscpd posted:If you have a 2g car, you can check out http://www.2gnt.com/CAPS to click through things. Please note that the NT in 2GNT stands for Non Turbo. I'm pretty sure the Admin team there weeded out the turbo specific stuff from their CAPS database. Edit: Obviously if the part isn't GST/X/TSi specific then that site will work out great for you. Maker Of Shoes fucked around with this message at Feb 27, 2011 around 19:19 |
| # ? Feb 27, 2011 19:16 |
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thvwlshvscpd posted:http://www.mitsubishiparts.com Nice, this is exactly what I wanted. Now if only I could find a place with touchup paint.
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| # ? Feb 28, 2011 01:55 |
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kimbo305 posted:Now if only I could find a place with touchup paint. Like this?
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| # ? Mar 1, 2011 00:10 |
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DJ Commie posted:The c-clip only holds the axle from popping out of the differential against the load of the boot/grease/mechanical friction of the tripod joint. The dust/oil seal takes care of keeping the oil in the diff, not the axle retaining circlip. Correct. After re-reading what I wrote, it was a little hazy. What I meant is that the oil seal won't seal properly if the axle isn't clipped securely in place.
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| # ? Mar 1, 2011 01:53 |
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I stumbled across a pretty good article last night giving a decent in-depth history along with some general information about DSMs. I think it is worth a read even though it is from 2003, so it is a little out of date. Eventually I will update the OP with a bunch of information and a brief history of the cars along with a buyer's guide. I just need my life to calm down a bit before I can put the time in. http://www.grassrootsmotorsports.co.../diamond-stars/ I love that the author found a way to tie William Shakespeare to Diamond-Star Motors. Classy. Also for a brief update on the progress of my Talon, there really isn't much progress on my Talon. The good news though is that I just sold my '09 STI this weekend which will free up some money each month to dedicate to getting the Talon back on the road. Good times.
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| # ? Mar 15, 2011 21:40 |
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Finally started working again this week and just got $1,000 back for my taxes. Ordering a set of Yokohama S.drive tires tonight. I'm trying to track down a passenger fender (preferably in red) to replace my rusted out one as well as a set of under engine splash guards on DSMTuners. I'm also thinking about buying an RRE catch can, what are your thoughts on these? Will I fail emissions because of it? I forgot how much I love having money. After the tires, I'm saving up to get my top end rebuilt. So far the list is: OEM Timing Belt OEM Head Gasket OEM Water Pump OEM Tensioner OEM Valve Stem Seals Topline Revised Lifters ARP Head Studs OEM Balance Shaft Eliminator Kit OEM Tensioner Pulley OEM Idler Pulley
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| # ? Mar 18, 2011 14:51 |
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I dont see why a catch can would fail emissions. Also they are fairly easy to make on your own instead of ordering one, from a gatorade bottle to a less ghetto just find a appropriate sized metal can like all those reusable metal water bottles sold everywhere. Just tap it in two place for a in and out and if you wanna get fancy put a drain on the bottom or a breather on top.
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| # ? Mar 18, 2011 15:01 |
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I try to stay away from ghetto things like a Gatorade bottle whenever possible, and its only $54 for the RRE catch can kit. I was just wondering if it'd fail emissions because on the website its called a Crank Case Breather/Catch Can and has a breather filter on the top. When I had a breather filter on the crank case of my 420a Avenger it made me fail emissions. It also says "Race cars only, not smog legal."
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| # ? Mar 18, 2011 15:13 |
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I've never heard of a catch can making you fail emissions, but fortunately it can be removed in under 5 minutes for the test.
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| # ? Mar 18, 2011 16:53 |
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BoostCreep posted:I've never heard of a catch can making you fail emissions, but fortunately it can be removed in under 5 minutes for the test. I've seen it happen. Logic would dictate that it wouldn't but that breather line is considered emissions equipment and tampering with any OEM emissions equipment is insta-fail.
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| # ? Mar 18, 2011 17:55 |
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I just ordered a set of Yokohama S.drive tires for my wheels today. I have these rims: As you can see I'm missing the center caps. Does anyone know where I can order a set of new center caps? DSMTuners and Google was no help, and on every set on eBay they disclaim that there are many different sizes for various wheels so they may or may not fit. I plan on getting them powder-coated gold, I need these first. Outside of a Mitsubishi dealership does anyone know where I can order a set of lug nuts for these as well? I was told on DSMTuners that the lug nuts for these rims are weird and thusly any set you buy from say AutoZone will not fit. I checked out RockAuto but they had about 10 different kinds of lug nuts and it just confused me.
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| # ? Mar 20, 2011 00:15 |
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PCV is a closed system, mentioned AND illustrated on the VECI label, and you wonder why venting it to atmosphere is an issue?
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| # ? Mar 20, 2011 01:57 |
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DJ Commie posted:PCV is a closed system, mentioned AND illustrated on the VECI label, and you wonder why venting it to atmosphere is an issue? Are you referring to the catch can? I've always had a recirculating stock BOV to circumvent the venting to the atmosphere issue, but I've had a catch can for a decade with no problems at all.
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| # ? Mar 20, 2011 02:09 |
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Super Aggro Crag posted:Outside of a Mitsubishi dealership does anyone know where I can order a set of lug nuts for these as well? I was told on DSMTuners that the lug nuts for these rims are weird and thusly any set you buy from say AutoZone will not fit. I checked out RockAuto but they had about 10 different kinds of lug nuts and it just confused me. When I had mine, I just brought one lug off the car into O'Reilly's and the parts dude pointed me to where the mag wheel lugs were on the shelf. I had no issues with fitment. The dealer will tell you that there are 4 or 5 different lugs for the car depending on the month/shift/weather because they had different locking lug nuts.
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| # ? Mar 20, 2011 17:53 |
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So you're saying that AutoZone or CAP will have lug nuts that fit? Because I was thinking about buying some anodized red lug nuts.  Do you think I could order a set of center caps as well?
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| # ? Mar 20, 2011 18:36 |
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BoostCreep posted:Are you referring to the catch can? I've always had a recirculating stock BOV to circumvent the venting to the atmosphere issue, but I've had a catch can for a decade with no problems at all. No, I am talking about the PCV system. It usually has a hose from the intake pipe after the MAF to the valve cover, then a screw in PCV valve that goes into the intake manifold vacuum side. The air let out is already metered, since it either leaks from around the rings or through the vent line. Its not much air, but its meant to be a system where it burns the blowby and other crankcase emissions from being released. Its about 20% of a normal car's overall emissions.
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| # ? Mar 20, 2011 18:46 |
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Super Aggro Crag posted:So you're saying that AutoZone or CAP will have lug nuts that fit? Because I was thinking about buying some anodized red lug nuts. About the lug nuts, yes. Sorry, I couldn't find this thread for a few days.
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| # ? Apr 3, 2011 16:51 |
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Thanks, I'm going to take a trip to AutoZone then. I noticed that my oil pressure gauge stopped working. The entire oil pressure sending unit was dirty and rusty. There is the bell shaped oil pressure switch and the wire. Is that all I need? Do I need to buy a special wire (I noticed its clipped together in the middle) or can I just run any wire?
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| # ? Apr 3, 2011 17:00 |
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Factory gauge, or aftermarket? If you're talking about the larger can-shaped pressure sensor, that has the slide-on clip on the top, the clips eventually get oil-soaked and suck at staying clipped to the sensor. The one on my 3000GT is the same way. The smaller sender next to the can-shaped one is for the oil pressure warning light. If it's the sender, just replace that. If you can't get the clip to stay on, just replace the factory gauge sensor with an aftermarket gauge/sensor, if you feel like it. Otherwise, I've not found a good way to replace just the clip 
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| # ? Apr 3, 2011 19:50 |
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I know I've heard the factory oil pressure gauge is useless, but I just want to fix it before I start buying any aftermarket things. I'll have to check again, but I'm pretty sure the wire was clipped on, but it was grimy as hell. Also, can someone please tell me where to get center caps for these rims: 
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| # ? Apr 3, 2011 21:21 |
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Super Aggro Crag posted:Also, can someone please tell me where to get center caps for these rims: Go to http://www.mitsubishiparts.com and search for Center cap. They are $13.56 per.
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| # ? Apr 3, 2011 21:30 |
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thvwlshvscpd posted:Go to http://www.mitsubishiparts.com and search for Center cap. They are $13.56 per. Yeah, I couldn't find them when I searched under 1991, but I see them when I punched in 1999. I'm pretty sure they are the same exact rims, so hopefully it'll work.
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| # ? Apr 3, 2011 22:02 |
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Super Aggro Crag posted:Yeah, I couldn't find them when I searched under 1991, but I see them when I punched in 1999. I'm pretty sure they are the same exact rims, so hopefully it'll work. It's because those are 2g wheels and not offered on your 91. It will work.
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| # ? Apr 3, 2011 22:50 |
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DreamOn13 posted:It's because those are 2g wheels and not offered on your 91. It will work. What ^^^ said. You have 2g wheels on your car. I searched for a 1999 as well.
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| # ? Apr 4, 2011 02:16 |
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Hey, I've got some DSM content (mostly me bitching about stuff with my car). I haven't had internal lights come on reliably with the driver's door open in a year or more, finally fixed that by replacing the drat switch. My intermittent wipers are no longer intermittent, intermittent just goes the same speed as the low speed. In addition, stopping the wipers stops them immediately rather than returning to rest postion (annoying). Guessing it's the relay or the switch? Aaand, the mounts that hold in lock/window switches on the driver's side all broke, so I need a new inner door panel if I want to be able to roll down my windows. <sigh>
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| # ? Apr 4, 2011 18:27 |
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Project update! I finally got some free time this weekend to make some progress on the Talon. The goal was to get the engine out and on an engine stand so I could start the teardown. I wanted to start ordering parts for the rebuild, but I need some vital information first, like what size overbore pistons to order, valve guides, etc. So the sooner I can get it all to a machine shop, the sooner I can start spending money. I apologize in advance for the messy garage and cell phone pics. (actually I'm pretty impressed with the pictures, taken with my new droid phone.) I ended up renting the largest and most ridiculous engine hoist to get the engine and tranny out of the car. Good thing I happened to have a tow hitch on my Jeep, because this is the smallest hoist I could find to rent in LA and towing it was the only way to get it to my garage. For reference, that Jeep has a 3" lift on 31" tires, and the engine hoist is taller than it while on its side. I had to lift it up inside the garage because it didn't clear the opening. At least it was cheap.  DSM Parts!  This is the FP Green turbo in my avatar picture. 15k miles of 26psi and not a hint of shaft play. Not bad for an oil cooled hybrid turbo. I'm planning on replacing it with a smaller Evo3 16g, so this will have to find a new home, possibly either my Jeep or the S2k that I am planning on buying later this year.  Get out of my car! I'll never really know what caused the valves to drop since I wasn't there when it died, but the crank still spins freely which is a good sign to me.  This is the nut that I have lovingly dubbed "the nut from hell". And I was pleased to see that it lived up to its name after all these years of not having to deal with it. This nut holds the wheel hub assembly to the lower control arm, and it is the most annoying and awful nut to deal with on the entire car. 1st gen DSM guys, especially AWD 1st gen DSM guys, know and loathe this nut very well. You have to remove this nut to get enough play in the suspension to remove the axle from the transmission, and it's a bitch for so many reasons that I don't even want to write about it. The rusty marks on the control arm are from previous years of banging the hell out of it with a hammer to get just enough clearance to get the bolt off the ball joint. It is not fun. Also I obviously need some new ball joints.  And out of the car!  The cramped workspace. Still beats a parking lot though.  I'm shocked there isn't rust anywhere on the unibody or in the engine bay. This car spent 15 years of its life in Rochester, NY where cars begin to rust before they leave the dealership. Fortunately I am the second owner, and the first owner kept it in a garage and washed it religiously for the first 10 years of its life.  Hello transfer case! It is still attached to the driveshaft to prevent it from leaking precious BG Synchroshift II all over the floor. Fun note, the transfer cases in DSMs are under recall for the life of the car. So it could have a million miles on the odometer and be 50 years old, but as long as Mitsubishi or Chrysler still exist, you can get a new transfer case if yours goes bad.  The engine right before I split the transmission off.  And after the split. The pressure plate looks like hell after the half dozen tranny and clutch swaps I've performed in parking lots over the years.  This is the ACT 2600 pressure plate after 20k miles and probably several hundred AWD drag strip launches. Time for a new one!  The same goes for the clutch disc, this car's 4th since I've owned it. You can see the cracks on the outside of the pressure plate at the bottom of the picture.  The flywheel and the infamous six bolts. All of those little markings on the flywheel are cracks. Not too bad considering it's the original flywheel and has been resurfaced twice already. So add flywheel, pressure plate, and clutch disc to the tab. Ugh $$$.  Some more parts pictures: Downpipe with test pipe attached, IC pipes, some more misc stuff.  Here is some DSM ingenuity to fix a sheared bolt that holds the brake line to the strut. This will be replaced when I put the new suspension on.  And finally all buttoned up until next weekend when I start the engine teardown. The engine is on the stand to the right of the car. I had to put everything either under the car or on it so my girlfriend can have her parking space back. I managed to fit a lot of crap in a very small space.  Parts that I know I need to order, excluding engine internals: - ACT 2600 clutch - RRE OEM Flywheel - Ball joints all around - My front sway bar is extremely rusty. I should be able to sand and repaint, but I'd also love to get some new thicker bars. - All new rubber from motor mounts to suspension bushings. - New struts and springs. Going to ditch the 8 year old Ground Control "coilovers" and replace with Eibach Pro Kit with new KYB AGX shocks. (unless there is a better option I am unaware of) - Brake rotors and pads, hopefully with 92+ two pot front calipers. - DSMlink - Mitsubishi MLS headgasket - Timing belt kit and pulley components - Tires - Tons of fluids I have the feeling that list will continue to grow...
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| # ? Apr 5, 2011 00:47 |
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Holy hell, that's a giant hoist. Makes me thankful for the folding 2-ton I've got, it takes up minimal space when I'm not using it. Are they still honoring recalls on the DSM transfer cases? I know a lot of the 3000GT guys get the runaround on transfer case replacements, even if they've locked up. It's retarded, but what can ya do. Mine has never leaked from the case seals, but I have had to replace the output seal once or twice.
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| # ? Apr 5, 2011 03:09 |
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| # ? May 24, 2013 22:43 |
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I wonder if they're still honouring it in Canada. I know Mitsubishi wasn't even here prior to 2002, and Chrysler doesn't have the best history of not being grossly incompetent/negligent.
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| # ? Apr 5, 2011 03:14 |
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