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The price of these stupid things is the only thing that's stopping me from having a simple whole home audio setup. I want to put one of these on my living room receiver, but it costs $100 more than I spent on the receiver itself! http://usa.denon.com/us/heos-link If they were like $150, I'd just say "gently caress it, imma buy one for every room," and they'd probably make even more money than otherwise. Edit: Looks like they go for $200 on ebay... poo poo, that's tempting. KillHour fucked around with this message at 17:32 on May 25, 2015 |
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May 25, 2015 17:29
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My cousin gave me an old surround sound system for my basement, including a couple of speaker stands. Do they make any sort of a bushing or anything to change thread sizes for speaker stands? The holes on the bottom of the speakers are about half an inch in diameter with a relatively course thread. The posts on the top of the stands are about 3/8" diameter with some sort of machine screw thread pattern. So if I put the speaker stands in the holes in the bottom of the speakers, it's kind of a hotdog in a hallway situation. I was thinking of just cramming some epoxy in the bottom of the speaker holes and spiking them onto the stands, but if there's a more elegant solution, I'd prefer to do that. All of the speakers are probably from the mid '90's or so.
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Jun 1, 2015 19:10
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Quick question - there's no reason I should get the slightly newer Marantz slim receiver - this guy - http://www.amazon.com/Marantz-NR150...s=marantzi+slim - for $100 more than the previous model - http://www.amazon.com/Marantz-NR140...s=marantzi+slim - right? The newer one looks identical specwise but includes "Airplay," which is weaselly as you have to bring your own wireless connection or connect it via an ethernet cable to a router. Is there any other compelling reason to go with the newer one?
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Jun 12, 2015 15:15
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We're wondering about outdoor audio here. We need to push some sound out to our pool, which is 40-60 feet away from the house depending on where you are in it. We're willing to put a hole in the wall inside for a receiver, although not necessarily for things like a CD player or whatever. I think we'd just stream from some other device, get it boosted, and then send outside. Whatever we do has to be able to sustain the occasional horizontal rain. I'd also prefer if we could temporarily mount speakers on some stands or something before we ultimately hang them off the eaves. Audio quality does not have to be immaculate since we're next to a pretty busy road. There's no getting over that noise. I think we're willing to go over $1,000 on it. I'd presume we'd need to support remote controls, and have some wireless capability to handle all the streaming. We might be able to run wire from an amplifier out to the speakers, but I can't do much crawl space shenanigans where I want to potentially mount one of the speakers.
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Jun 20, 2015 16:51
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I've just moved into a place that has speakers set up on the outside deck. The speaker wire is ran into the basement so I'm looking for a basic received that I could, preferably, stream from my phone or computer. Is there a basic receiver recommendation out there for this kind of use?
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Jun 28, 2015 15:38
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So I live in a small 750 sq ft apartment. I'm looking for something simple to use with my TV and different devices for music, mostly Iphone. Would the audioengines A2 suffice? I don't need my speakers to be heard from the 1st floor really.
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Jun 30, 2015 04:00
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I'm looking at getting a decent speaker setup for games, TV/movies, and music, in that order. I'm thinking a 3 speaker setup, possibly getting a subwoofer sometime later. For the receiver, I'm thinking the Denon AVR-E400. The critical feature here is analog upconversion. I occasionally play older game systems, and not having to muck around with the TV input would be a big plus. This is the lowest-end receiver I could find on A4L with upconversion. Since I won't be doing surround sound or using any of the networking features, it seems like overkill. But it's also not super high priced, so whatever. For speakers, the Polk CS10 center and Polk RTI A1 bookshelves are high rated on Amazon and nicely priced, so they seem like a simple pick. All told, we're looking at about $600. I could justify spending more if there's an obvious step up. We're not musicians or audiophiles or anything, so value-for-dollar is more important than perfect audio quality. Any thoughts? ColdPie fucked around with this message at 18:57 on Jul 4, 2015 |
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Jul 4, 2015 18:46
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I'm so not an audiophile and I think people here might kill me for saying so but I think I'd prefer a low end 5.1 speaker system, specifically the monoprice speakers, over an expensive 3 speaker no sub system.
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Jul 4, 2015 22:28
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The Dave posted:I'm so not an audiophile and I think people here might kill me for saying so but I think I'd prefer a low end 5.1 speaker system, specifically the monoprice speakers, over an expensive 3 speaker no sub system. If you have $100-200 more to spend over that system so far, the best place to put it is a sub for a 3.1 system. The rear speakers aren't really worth it unless you watch a ton of movies (and even then, better front speakers are where you should spend that money first). In other words, I wouldn't go with a Monoprice 5.1 setup (especially since they aren't a clone of the Energy system any more) over what you picked, but I would consider a sub to be a better upgrade than looking at more expensive speakers. KillHour fucked around with this message at 23:05 on Jul 4, 2015 |
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Jul 4, 2015 23:03
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Hey all, I just set up my first home PC and have been having problems getting my subwoofer to produce enough bass in direct mode. So I have my computer connected to my receiver, a used Onkyo tx-Sr308, via a toslink cable, and my speakers are Harmon Kardon HKTS 16s. My standard settings have the speakers set to "small" with a crossover frequency set to 120 hz- I'm assuming in this mode all the bass should be directed to the subwoofer? However, In the standard mode, there is barely any bass at all- in fact, for some songs when I put my hand on the driver of the subwoofer it is not even moving. But when I listen in dolby digital modes or use the "double bass" feature I get bass as usual. I'm not sure what is wrong but I hope the crossover isn't broken in the AV receiver as I bought it used. In all other listening modes I get bass as usual, so I know something is not wrong with the subwoofer.
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Jul 5, 2015 22:37
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Direct mode disables the crossover (along with all other audio processing). It's for when you want the output to be as identical to the input as possible.
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Jul 5, 2015 23:11
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I see so the output becomes unmolested by the receiver- gotcha. However it is still not sending anything to the subwoofer, is this normal? Also, will 5.1 sources, like from DVDs encoded with dolby digital, have a separate input to the subwoofer so I should still have bass?
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Jul 5, 2015 23:34
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Yrs, direct mode won't send anything to the subwoofer unless there is an LFE track (such as in 5.1 or 7.1 content). Direct mode is really just there to make audiophiles happy. Don't use it.
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Jul 5, 2015 23:37
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Right now I have a cheap Sony Blu-ray player hooked into my TV. I was given this Oppo BDP-105 and think it's really overkill. I'm not really even sure what all it is capable of, or why I'd need one. Does anyone have experience with one? Should I just sell the Oppo, or is it so awesome that I should keep it?
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Jul 6, 2015 03:26
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Sell it. Oppo makes stuff for suckers.
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Jul 6, 2015 05:45
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I forget which model but one of the high end oppo's can be used as a pre/pro and direct connected to external amps. Might be that one.
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Jul 7, 2015 09:45
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jonathan posted:I forget which model but one of the high end oppo's can be used as a pre/pro and direct connected to external amps. Might be that one. Why would you ever want your pre integrated into a bluray player?
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Jul 7, 2015 13:43
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KillHour posted:Why would you ever want your pre integrated into a bluray player? They market them as high-end CD player/DACs as well. I had an Oppo 970 which was a good all-region DVD player but the remote was garbage. They decided it was better to go high-end though, probably sparked by the fact that other companies were buying their players and re-badging them for thousands of dollars.
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Jul 7, 2015 16:31
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I have a Denon X1000 that has HDMI CEC and a Samsung TV that does not. If I plug in CEC compatible devices directly into the AVR (Chromecast, PS4) I should be able to use the AVR remote to control them, correct?
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Jul 9, 2015 17:46
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Raymn posted:I have a Denon X1000 that has HDMI CEC and a Samsung TV that does not. If I plug in CEC compatible devices directly into the AVR (Chromecast, PS4) I should be able to use the AVR remote to control them, correct? The chromecast doesn't support any kind of remote input. It does have CEC but it's only used for switching over to its input whenever you play something. edit: actually i might be wrong, the pause/play buttons might work in netflix and the like but i've never tried it. I don't use the chromecast anymore since my tv's apps are better, oddly. CheddarGoblin fucked around with this message at 17:56 on Jul 9, 2015 |
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Jul 9, 2015 17:53
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the nicker posted:The chromecast doesn't support any kind of remote input. It does have CEC but it's only used for switching over to its input whenever you play something. Pause/play/ff/rwd work from my understanding.
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Jul 9, 2015 18:27
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KillHour posted:Yrs, direct mode won't send anything to the subwoofer unless there is an LFE track (such as in 5.1 or 7.1 content). Direct mode is really just there to make audiophiles happy. Don't use it. I use the "Pure Direct" mode on my receiver (Yamaha), but only for rhythm games like Rock Band and Rocksmith. I actually quite like the way I have the processing setup right now for all other content.
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Jul 9, 2015 19:58
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KillHour posted:Why would you ever want your pre integrated into a bluray player? Less devices in your signal path, and the below 20hz signal rolloff that are built into most devices starts to really compound when you have BR player to pre/pro to amps to speakers. It likely wouldn't do you or I any good, but I remember one guy was testing it with good results.
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Jul 13, 2015 23:27
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Woot has the Klipsch RF-82 II speakers for 329.99 on sale now, they usually go for 399.99 on Amazon and crutch field. They have great reviews and I want to get them to replace two pioneer Andrew jones towers, however I'm worried my yamaha v675 reciever at 95 wpc will not handle them, however reading a lot of forums, I'm told that it might be fine. Can anyone with experience in this tell me if I'm ok?
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Jul 15, 2015 00:03
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You will be fine
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Jul 15, 2015 00:29
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Axim posted:Woot has the Klipsch RF-82 II speakers for 329.99 on sale now, they usually go for 399.99 on Amazon and crutch field. They have great reviews and I want to get them to replace two pioneer Andrew jones towers, however I'm worried my yamaha v675 reciever at 95 wpc will not handle them, however reading a lot of forums, I'm told that it might be fine. Can anyone with experience in this tell me if I'm ok? Don Lapre is right, but to teach a man to fish, as it were: http://images.klipsch.com/RF82II_635042119237310000.pdf The sensitivity of these new speakers is 98dB @ 2.83v / 1m http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/ephox/StaticFiles/PUSA/Files/Home/SP-PK52FS%20SingleSheet.pdf The sensitivity of your current speakers is 87dB @ 2.83v / 1m Those Klipsch speakers should be significantly louder at the same power output.
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Jul 15, 2015 02:21
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Although klipsch tends to bend physics to prop up their sensitivity ratings, they still are a very good and efficient speaker. 93db/watt is likely a more realistic measurement. People often think the bigger more fancy speakers need more amplifier, but actually the bigger crazy speakers usually need way way LESS amp. For example, klipschorn speakers only need a couple watts from a tube amp to sound really good, or pro auditorium style JBL speakers that can get upwards of 110db from a single watt.
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Jul 15, 2015 19:09
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So I have been trying to mount my satellite speakers- Harman kardon KHTS 16 - to an old rear end pair of speakers stands I bought over 10 years ago. They are good stands and stands are stands right? The problem is I no longer have the set of mounting brackets the stands came with. The brand is called omni mount, and the connector is facing forward for speakers with screwholes in the back (right above the oval shaped hole which I assume is where you route the wires through). My speakers ( see pictures) have the screwhole on bottom, so unless I want the speakers facing the floor or ceiling, I have to do something about it. Is there any way to jerry rig these two together, or better yet buy new compatible mounts for this thing? These are high quality speaker stands and I would hate to get rid of them for a simple incompatibility. 
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Jul 18, 2015 05:13
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Double sided tape?
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Jul 18, 2015 19:13
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Make some type of L bracket, either as an connecting piece joining the speaker to the stand, or an L braket that just connects to the stand and the speaker then sits on it. Just go to your local hardware store and wander around the metal/bolts isle and Im sure you can come up with something.
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Jul 18, 2015 20:19
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Thanks for your help guys, I actually ended up finding a great deal on craigslist for 2 Polk Audio RT 2000i towers, 180 for both. They are in terrific condition, some slight marks on the cabinet but nothing a sharpie couldn't take care of. They are about 12-14 years old but were stored in a climate controlled environment their whole lives and for 180 dollars, I am absolutely thrilled, they retailed for 1k each in early 2000s. I went ahead and ordered a used CS400i center to timbre match and am now using my old pioneer andrew jones towers as surround speakers. The RX V675 Yamaha receiver I have seems to have no issue powering them and since they both have powered subs built in, I guess its less load on the receiver. I've set the cross-over for my BIC America F12 to 60hz (YPAO recommended this too) and so far I am pretty drat impressed. My only issue is dialogue from the center speaker is often too low during movies, so I'm hoping the CS400i sounds better than my andrew jones pioneer center, I should know later this week. So far I have adjusted the center by +4db to compensate.
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Jul 20, 2015 01:04
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Powered subs built into the speakers plus a dedicated sub... I don't know what's its called on Yamaha's but you might want to experiment with double bass. Where the .1 sub signal is sent to the front speakers and the sub...
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Jul 20, 2015 18:07
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I'm a visual guy primarily. Ask me to set up a killer visual system or make some graphics or clean up VFX work and I'll make magic happen. When it comes to audio though, I'm basically clueless. I have a good ear, but I have no idea what works together or how to set it up correctly. I'm looking to get a system of sorts and would love some feedback / suggestions. My needs: I have a Denon 300F turntable I play my records from I have a computer that I output to multiple audio speakers from(currently headphones, tv through hdmi[as a 3rd mirrored monitor], desktop speakers, and a separate pair of headphones with a built in microphone) This is really my big problem. I hate having to open up my settings and change my audio output in windows, it's just not very elegant. I want to be able to route / switch between my turntable and computer easily, and I want the speakers / receiver to be pretty nice because I love listening to my records and want them to sound as best as I can. I'd say my budget would be between 500-800, what kind of recommendations would make sense for me? I also love fiddling and playing with poo poo, but I also kinda already have enough of that going on with my computer/mic/headphones/tv setup. As far as sound tone / what I listen to, it's primarily folk / indie-new-folk / blues / blues rock / stuff like kanye / and a lot of electronic, specifically stuff like Kavinsky Perturbator and the like [really I listen to a lot of types of music but mostly I like warm bass-y sound with really nice mids, treble is nice too, but it's never my first concern(maybe it should be?) Anyway, any suggestions for an audio-idiot? edit: this is also a system I'd like to be able to add onto later, at the moment I'm talking about a 2.1 system. I don't even really have room in my apt to properly place surround speakers, so I'm fine with saying 500-800 is half or 2/3rds of my total finished 5.1/7.1 system. double edit: should I also look for a preamp for my denon? jaik3n fucked around with this message at 16:20 on Jul 21, 2015 |
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Jul 21, 2015 15:13
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jaik3n posted:I have a computer that I output to multiple audio speakers from(currently headphones, tv through hdmi[as a 3rd mirrored monitor], desktop speakers, and a separate pair of headphones with a built in microphone) This is really my big problem. I hate having to open up my settings and change my audio output in windows, it's just not very elegant. The editorial guys at work all use these things: http://www.mackie.com/products/bigknob/
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Jul 21, 2015 21:02
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I can't do without a big knob.
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Jul 22, 2015 06:40
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I'm in the process of setting up an test lab for the company I work for, and I need some advice. If any of this sounds stupid, please bear with me, as I'm not entirely up to speed on audio technology/terminology. I need a sound system with the following:
Risket fucked around with this message at 18:21 on Jul 22, 2015 |
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Jul 22, 2015 17:04
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The chances of finding a 7.1 system that can actually handle 7.1 input over RCA for that price is slim to none. What, exactly is this setup testing? Edit: unless you go with a cheap piece of Chinese crap (Pyle, et al) that only has RCA inputs. Those exist, but I wouldn't suggest anybody actually buy one. KillHour fucked around with this message at 17:21 on Jul 22, 2015 |
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Jul 22, 2015 17:13
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Good point, edited out the price. I work for a company that does engineering work for a very large projector manufacturer. Though most of our emphasis is on the projectors, we need an audio system that will at least come close to what our users will hear in a theater. I know Dolby ATMOS equipped theaters can have a lot more than 7 speakers, but 7.1 is good enough for our purposes. Basically I need to emulate the audio heard in a theater in our lab. The audio processor that we'll be using is analog out, hence the HDMI/TOSLink not needed. Instead of a receiver, would an 8 channel mixer be a better option? Risket fucked around with this message at 17:47 on Jul 22, 2015 |
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Jul 22, 2015 17:41
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I'm sure this is a terrible question, but what is my best bet if I want to spend like <=$200 just to beat built in TV speakers?
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Jul 23, 2015 14:27
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Fruit Chewy posted:I'm sure this is a terrible question, but what is my best bet if I want to spend like <=$200 just to beat built in TV speakers? Audioengine A2's for $250?
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Jul 23, 2015 14:32
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