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"BuyDig offers the Fujifilm X-M1 16.3-Megapixel Compact Digital SLR-Like Camera with a Fujifilm XC 16-50mm F3.5-5.6 OIS Lens for $529. Coupon code "BCD146237411" cuts the price to $414. With free shipping, that's a buck under our June mention and the lowest total price we've seen. (It's also a current low by $171.) It features a 3" tilting LCD, 1080p video capture, 802.11n wireless, and HDMI output." You should be able to sell the kit lens for lease 150. whatever7 fucked around with this message at 17:48 on Jul 24, 2014 |
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Jul 24, 2014 17:44
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Welp, took the plunge and am selling my XF300 to fund an A7s.
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Jul 24, 2014 17:47
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halwain posted:I'm having problems deciding between a Fujifilm X-E2 and the X-A1. How much better is the x-e2 and what are the real advantages? Its the first time im getting a mirrorless camera and im The X-A1 has neither an xtrans sensor nor a veiwfinder. Buying a Fuji with without the two main draws of the system is a bad idea. 8th-snype fucked around with this message at 04:03 on Jul 25, 2014 |
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Jul 24, 2014 17:57
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I think the X-E1 with its faster kit lens is a steal at the current used prices of $600ish. Something to consider as well if you're okay with slowish autofocus. Has xtrans and viewfinder.
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Jul 24, 2014 18:03
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8th-snype posted:The X-A1 has neither an xtrans sensor nor a veiwfinder. Buying a Fuji with with the two main draws of the system is a bad idea. The viewfinder is something to consider but by all reports the X-A1's output quality is very close to (if not the same as) the X-Trans sensors. It's also the smallest, cheapest body in the system and uses the same second generation processor as the X-E2 and X-T1.
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Jul 24, 2014 18:22
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powderific posted:Welp, took the plunge and am selling my XF300 to fund an A7s. Prepare to be blown away. The reviews seriously do not do this camera justice. It's not as sexy as the Fuji cameras, but if you're looking at it from the "right tool for the job" perspective, it's incredible.
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Jul 24, 2014 18:39
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In that updated Fuji lens map, the 16-55 f/2.8 that was rumored to have OIS is relisted with no OIS  I'm not saying IS is needed for that focal range, but I'm certain the lens will be near $1000, if not more. You'd assume OIS for that much money, but maybe it will come out cheaper.
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Jul 24, 2014 19:57
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HPL posted:Prepare to be blown away. The reviews seriously do not do this camera justice. It's not as sexy as the Fuji cameras, but if you're looking at it from the "right tool for the job" perspective, it's incredible. Fuji, at least, humors me by patching my xpro-1.
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Jul 24, 2014 20:01
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Malcolm XML posted:The problem i have with the a7 series is that sony will inevitably release an a7 mark 2 next year that includes all of the improvements and drop support for the old cameras. With a totally new lens mount for the curved sensors they're working on
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Jul 24, 2014 20:06
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timrenzi574 posted:With a totally new lens mount for the curved sensors they're working on And little in the way of lens support.
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Jul 24, 2014 20:06
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Musket posted:And little in the way of lens support. And say goodbye to adapted lenses since the lenses have to be designed to project onto a curved surface rather than a flat one. While I suppose it's possible to use adapters with corrective optics, I doubt the resulting image will look that great nor will the adapter be cheap.
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Jul 24, 2014 20:31
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halwain posted:I'm having problems deciding between a Fujifilm X-E2 and the X-A1. How much better is the x-e2 and what are the real advantages? Its the first time im getting a mirrorless camera and im 8th-snype posted:The X-A1 has neither an xtrans sensor nor a veiwfinder. Buying a Fuji with with the two main draws of the system is a bad idea. By all accounts the X-A1's sensor is really good for the money, even among Bayer sensors. I would let the viewfinder be the deciding factor between the two. If you're used to using rear LCDs to compose your images and it doesn't bother you, the X-A1 might be a better introductory option, especially at that price. That said the X-E2 is probably more enjoyable to use and the viewfinder is best in class awesome. In this case, since the practical differences to you are almost entirely ergonomic, you really should drop into a camera store and handle both. Fart Car '97 fucked around with this message at 20:46 on Jul 24, 2014 |
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Jul 24, 2014 20:43
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That sigma 30mm 2.8 for E mount seems to be backordered everywhere. Any reason not to buy the old one used?
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Jul 24, 2014 21:20
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I read a review somewhere that said the old one might actually be ever so slightly better? I can't confirm that at all though.
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Jul 24, 2014 21:24
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The old one just looks uglier, that's about it.
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Jul 24, 2014 21:27
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timrenzi574 posted:With a totally new lens mount for the curved sensors they're working on I suspect the curved sensors will take a longer time to hit the interchangeable lens mount cameras because it doesn't play nicely with zoom lenses yet. More likely to see it in fixed lens cameras like the next RX1 model first.
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Jul 25, 2014 01:29
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alkanphel posted:I suspect the curved sensors will take a longer time to hit the interchangeable lens mount cameras because it doesn't play nicely with zoom lenses yet. More likely to see it in fixed lens cameras like the next RX1 model first. Probably, I was mostly being facetious. Just would be a very Sony thing to do.
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Jul 25, 2014 03:18
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alkanphel posted:I suspect the curved sensors will take a longer time to hit the interchangeable lens mount cameras because it doesn't play nicely with zoom lenses yet. More likely to see it in fixed lens cameras like the next RX1 model first. Curved sensors only make sense on fixed lens cameras They are a way of reducing the number of lens elements which are big and expensive At the cost of fixing a particular curvature which is ok if you can match the lens focal surface to the sensor! The human eye cannot zoom so that's probably a reason why the retina can be curved
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Jul 25, 2014 20:12
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Malcolm XML posted:Curved sensors only make sense on fixed lens cameras Pretty sure you could design an interchangeable-lens curved sensor. You'd just need to make sure that all the lenses have the same nodal point (which they have to in order to have a fixed register distance) and a fixed curvature of field, right? I mean there's nothing particularly special about a flat focal plane, I don't see how it's a crucial element of interchangeable lens mounts. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 22:51 on Jul 25, 2014 |
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Jul 25, 2014 22:49
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Got my Viltrox EOS-EF adapter in last week. Tried shooting a concert with a Tamron 28-75 and Tokia 11-16 last night. While it's nice to have the zoom capability of the 28-75, I think I'll stick to primes. The 28-75 is just too fricking huge with the adapter on relative to the A7S that it's like shooting with a 70-200, bulk-wise. The 11-16 works great from 15-16mm, but you need to take off the lens hood at 15mm. I might keep the 11-16 in my regular kit though as I don't have a comparable prime lens right now. The Sony 16mm pancake works okay at full frame, but the edges of the frame are crap.
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Jul 26, 2014 16:14
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Another thing I've found, and I can't confirm this, but it seems like AF speed is related to shutter speed. The faster the shutter speed, the faster the AF, which I guess makes sense on a liveview-based system.
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Jul 26, 2014 20:02
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HPL posted:Another thing I've found, and I can't confirm this, but it seems like AF speed is related to shutter speed. The faster the shutter speed, the faster the AF, which I guess makes sense on a liveview-based system. Are you sure that isn't just AF being slower in worse light?
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Jul 27, 2014 08:20
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8th-snype posted:Are you sure that isn't just AF being slower in worse light? Yeah, "lots of light" would certainly account for both better AF performance and high shutter speed.
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Jul 27, 2014 09:04
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Paul MaudDib posted:Pretty sure you could design an interchangeable-lens curved sensor. You'd just need to make sure that all the lenses have the same nodal point (which they have to in order to have a fixed register distance) and a fixed curvature of field, right? Sure but it defeats the point of saving a few lens elements and making a flat sensor is far easier than a curved one
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Jul 27, 2014 13:09
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8th-snype posted:Are you sure that isn't just AF being slower in worse light? No. If I bump up the ISO or open up the aperture, it locks on faster.
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Jul 27, 2014 14:26
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whatever7 posted:"BuyDig offers the Fujifilm X-M1 16.3-Megapixel Compact Digital SLR-Like Camera with a Fujifilm XC 16-50mm F3.5-5.6 OIS Lens for $529. Coupon code "BCD146237411" cuts the price to $414. With free shipping, that's a buck under our June mention and the lowest total price we've seen. (It's also a current low by $171.) It features a 3" tilting LCD, 1080p video capture, 802.11n wireless, and HDMI output." Is it worth selling my K01 for this? How does the image quality compare? I know the x-M1 is half the size, at least.
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Jul 27, 2014 22:54
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A7s arrived, but I discovered that it won't let me use X-AVCS withouth a 64gig or larger card, which I don't have. Not sure why it needs that since I can record the same bitrate fine from a C300 on 32GB Cf cards. Oh well, looks like I'm making a shopping trip.
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Jul 28, 2014 19:51
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I want to start taking some landscape shots with my x100s. I'm thinking I should get a polarizer and probably a lens hood as well (I already have a solid tripod). Anyone have recommendations?
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Jul 30, 2014 20:11
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I prefer graduated ND filter myself.
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Jul 30, 2014 20:49
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I don't think a polarizer will help a ton with landscapes, an ND filter and a generic rubber lens hood would be a better investment.
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Jul 30, 2014 20:59
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Elliotw2 posted:I don't think a polarizer will help a ton with landscapes Err.... Why not? CPFs are great for making skies more saturated or removing reflections from water.
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Jul 30, 2014 21:34
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Polarizers clean up the reflections on leaves too. It's great for landscapes. Get a good quality CP and a good quality ND for bright days. You get what you pay for with those filters, I've found.
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Jul 31, 2014 00:38
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But maybe look at wide angle photos shot with a CPL first, because I personally loving hate the uneven black sky effect.
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Jul 31, 2014 01:05
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RustedChrome posted:Polarizers clean up the reflections on leaves too. It's great for landscapes. Get a good quality CP and a good quality ND for bright days. You get what you pay for with those filters, I've found.
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Jul 31, 2014 10:03
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B+W filters are great. This is all hearsay, but the Kaesemann's supposedly let a litle more light through and add a very small yellow tint. I've never noticed the yellow tint, but I've also never done a comparison between an MRC and a Kaesemann. The thing that sold me on the Kaesemann is the weather-sealing since I tend to shoot in rain a lot. If you don't need the B+W, go with a Marumi. edit: The link that's been floating around forever: http://www.lenstip.com/115.4-article-Polarizing_filters_test_Results_and_summary.html luchadornado fucked around with this message at 12:26 on Jul 31, 2014 |
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Jul 31, 2014 12:22
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I've had great luck with B+W, Marumi and old Hoya's.
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Jul 31, 2014 16:48
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If I'm happy with my X-E2s and don't shoot sports, nor do I really need weather sealing, are there any major benefits to upgrading one to an X-T1? Is the autofocus really that much better for everyday stuff?
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Aug 1, 2014 08:04
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Bob Socko posted:If I'm happy with my X-E2s and don't shoot sports, nor do I really need weather sealing, are there any major benefits to upgrading one to an X-T1? Is the autofocus really that much better for everyday stuff? 1. Yeah, it kinda is. 2. Ergonomically, the X-T1 is MILES ahead of the X-E2, downside is it is a bigger camera, so if size matters... 3. DAT HUGE EVF, seriously, it's like a window. 4. Articulating screen - you're a former Sony guy, much like myself, the flippy screens rock. 5. Battery grip, with 2 full batteries on tap, I almost never have to worry about swapping out in a normal day of always-on walkabout use.
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Aug 1, 2014 16:48
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Well I broke down and ordered a X-T1. Any accessories that I should be looking for?
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Aug 1, 2014 16:50
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Gom Jabbar posted:Well I broke down and ordered a X-T1. Any accessories that I should be looking for? The extended eyecup is a nice addon, especially when it's bright outside. In my opinion, a grip is not needed.
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Aug 1, 2014 17:10
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