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What are the AF improvements like? Is it outright lens travel speed? The brain is better and doesn't search so much? Or the brain is better at deciding what the photographer wants to photograph? I'm not so concerned about the latter, since I don't think I'll ever get away from using a single focus point on my subject, then recompose while holding the shutter half closed. Most x100s reviews seemed to focus on improvements when the camera is quickly shoved in a subjects face on the street, having the shutter mashed down, and a decent photo come out. If it's actual physical AF lock speeds, are there any quantative measurements available to compare? Even my old Canon 20D would pretty much just snap to focus instantly, which is absolutely not a good way to describe the lazy searching of my x100. If the x100T gets near those speeds, that would be a big seller. Faster shutter is cool too, being unable to step outside on a normal day and shoot with a wide aperture without enabling the ND filter seems stupid since it's a pain to dig through the menus. It should have been a little button on the lens or something to simulate the action of actually putting on a filter. Kreez fucked around with this message at 20:32 on Sep 20, 2014 |
# ? Sep 20, 2014 20:30 |
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# ? Apr 26, 2024 12:41 |
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ChirreD posted:What are the real time OVF frameline adjustments? The big rectangle shifts or something?
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# ? Sep 20, 2014 20:54 |
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The X100 uses Contrast detect AF only, which means the lens racks back and forth until the CPU finds a solid, focused line, read off of the imaging sensor. It's highly accurate, but the speed is hugely dependent on the processing power available. The X100t not only has a faster processor (for finding those lines faster), it also has on-chip Phase detection. Phase detection is what your 20d had, and Phase detection judges focus using depth differences between different points. Essentially the camera uses Phase detect to get the lens to the right general area and then Contrast detect to lock focus. It should be quite a bit faster, especially if jumping large focal distances or tracking moving objects. An electronic shutter also allows 100% silent shooting, but you can't use a flash with an e-shutter so no balanced fill flash. It is a nice option to have, though.
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# ? Sep 20, 2014 21:40 |
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Breadnought posted:If you've ever used a proper rangefinder camera, it's very similar to that. As you adjust the focus closer to the camera, the frame lines will move more to the bottom right in real time. It's not quite as smooth as a real rangefinder camera though, it has a bit of a digital feel (in the same way the focus by wire manual focus feels a bit digital compared to a regular manual focus lens). I see. But strange because my x100 (and I think also x100s) did that when pressing shutter halfway. Must be improved somehow I guess
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# ? Sep 20, 2014 22:09 |
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grack posted:The X100 uses Contrast detect AF only, which means the lens racks back and forth until the CPU finds a solid, focused line, read off of the imaging sensor. It's highly accurate, but the speed is hugely dependent on the processing power available. Cool, thanks for the info.
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# ? Sep 20, 2014 22:27 |
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ChirreD posted:I see. But strange because my x100 (and I think also x100s) did that when pressing shutter halfway. Must be improved somehow I guess My x100 does not move the frame outline when using the OFV in MF, only when using AF. The new "pop up tab" thingy must provide some focus feedback so that there is a reason to use the OFV in MF mode? edit: it seems that the improvement is also in AF mode. It moves the frame in real time rather than after it has achieved focus. Kreez fucked around with this message at 22:39 on Sep 20, 2014 |
# ? Sep 20, 2014 22:30 |
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Kreez posted:The new "pop up tab" thingy must provide some focus feedback so that there is a reason to use the OFV in MF mode? I forgot to check wether focus peaking or split image would show up in the pop up tab thingy, but even without those I was surprised by how clearly I could see wether something was in focus or not. If you can activate focus peaking on top of that, I'd have no problem using the OVF for 99% of shooting conditions.
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# ? Sep 21, 2014 01:56 |
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How can you see whether something is in focus or not using the OVF?
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# ? Sep 21, 2014 04:21 |
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The pop up tab shows you a digital image of the focus point, zoomed in as though you pressed the Focus Assist button. According to the DPreview article, the pop up tab supports Split Image focusing, so I'd imagine it could handle focus peaking as well.
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# ? Sep 21, 2014 04:47 |
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Oops, missed the "I'd", thought you were talking in the present about x100/x100s.
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# ? Sep 21, 2014 16:30 |
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I haven't seen this posted here. Maybe I have, and I skipped over it because it looked stupid. It still looks stupid, but I'm intrigued. I don't suppose anyone here has the Sigma Quattro, or its predecessor (Merrill)? I think I'm going to rent one for a week
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# ? Sep 22, 2014 18:22 |
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The Camera Store did a review of one. I thought it looked kindof terrible.
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# ? Sep 22, 2014 19:55 |
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Helicity posted:
I read a X100s/X2/GR/DP1m/whatever-nikon-thing review recently. After 4 generations Sigma still can't produce accurate green color.
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# ? Sep 22, 2014 21:11 |
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I had a Sigma DP1 several years ago. Under ideal conditions, it was amazingly similar to a slide film like Kodachrome. Apparently they still haven't figured out how to make the Foveon sensor avoid confetti noise above ISO 400. I think that new Fuji chrome preset will give you the look without all the pain.
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# ? Sep 23, 2014 04:36 |
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I don't know how to feel about the X series Supertele coming out in late 2015... 140-400mm f/4-5.6. I think I'm definitely going to pick up the 50-140mm f/2.8 over Christmas, though.
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# ? Sep 23, 2014 19:13 |
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Phone posted:I don't know how to feel about the X series Supertele coming out in late 2015... 140-400mm f/4-5.6. I still can't understand why Fuji seem to be the only one of the lens manufacturers who haven't adopted some form of ultrasonic motor technology. Instead they're left talking about "triple linear motor" arrangements. I know Canon are moving towards STM on some of their lenses, but that's only where they want quiet and smooth for video reasons. Everyone is sticking USM versions in everything but the cheapest lens. Do Fuji know something we don't about USM being over-rated?
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# ? Sep 23, 2014 20:53 |
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Pablo Bluth posted:I still can't understand why Fuji seem to be the only one of the lens manufacturers who haven't adopted some form of ultrasonic motor technology. Instead they're left talking about "triple linear motor" arrangements. I know Canon are moving towards STM on some of their lenses, but that's only where they want quiet and smooth for video reasons. Everyone is sticking USM versions in everything but the cheapest lens. Do Fuji know something we don't about USM being over-rated? Could it have something to do with size? USM is a regular rotational motor that basically turns a gear, right? Maybe there is space saving that can be gained with the linear motor design. I have no idea but Fuji lenses, despite all the qq'ing on the internet about "oh no too big!!", are much smaller than the Canon/Nikon equivalents.
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# ? Sep 23, 2014 22:33 |
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dorkanoid posted:Thanks! I'll be looking for an E-PM2 and the 20mm - these are 2x crop? I use my 40mm quite a lot on full frame, so that seems perfect I found a Panasonic GF2 for $100, thinking of going with that. Is that stupid?
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# ? Sep 23, 2014 22:34 |
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dorkanoid posted:I found a Panasonic GF2 for $100, thinking of going with that. Is that stupid? I also found a Panasonic Lumix G 14mm f/2.5 ASPH for about $250 (it costs about $580 new here) - I think this could be a fairly cheap combo that covers my use cases
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# ? Sep 24, 2014 08:14 |
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800peepee51doodoo posted:Could it have something to do with size? USM is a regular rotational motor that basically turns a gear, right? Maybe there is space saving that can be gained with the linear motor design. I have no idea but Fuji lenses, despite all the qq'ing on the internet about "oh no too big!!", are much smaller than the Canon/Nikon equivalents. I think so too, every iteration the lenses get bigger and heavier. What started small (x-e1 + 35mm) now is getting heavy, looking at my 23 and 56. Great lenses but the "much smaller than DSLR" advantage is fading. I can only imagine enlarging lenses again with bigger faster motors will go against that.
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# ? Sep 24, 2014 09:30 |
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A lot of that is simply physics in the way though. If you want a sharp and good f/1.4 lens, it simply has to be larger.
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# ? Sep 24, 2014 09:47 |
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Doing a bit of googling, there does seem to be a train of thought that ultrasonic motors work less well with CD-AF than PD-AF. Looking at the m43 lenses, they don't seem to carry either Olympus' SWD or Panasonic's XSM branding, so perhaps that's the answer.
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# ? Sep 24, 2014 09:48 |
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ChirreD posted:I think so too, every iteration the lenses get bigger and heavier. What started small (x-e1 + 35mm) now is getting heavy, looking at my 23 and 56. Its still much smaller SLR lens of the same class. Look at Fuji 14mm 2.8 vs Pentax 14mm 2.8 or 15mm 4.0. Fuji lens is not bigger. There is no comparable lens of 23mm, 56mm, 16mm from other mounts. Only Fuji lens that are bigger are the constant 2.8 zoom lenses. Tokina make similar zoom lens. whatever7 fucked around with this message at 13:35 on Sep 24, 2014 |
# ? Sep 24, 2014 13:32 |
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dorkanoid posted:I found a Panasonic GF2 for $100, thinking of going with that. Is that stupid? nothing at that price is really stupid e. except a lytro
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# ? Sep 25, 2014 00:17 |
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I am trying to choose a prime lens to pick up next and can't decide if the 17 or 25 would be a better match to the 45 that I already have. I walked around with the 12-50 this morning using those two setting and have almost convinced myself the 17 is the right choice. Thoughts or experience would be appreciated.
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# ? Sep 25, 2014 01:00 |
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Ropes4u posted:I am trying to choose a prime lens to pick up next and can't decide if the 17 or 25 would be a better match to the 45 that I already have. The 25mm f1.4 is my favourite m43 lens ever and I also like it more than the Fuji X100 lens.
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# ? Sep 25, 2014 01:22 |
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Mr. Despair posted:nothing at that price is really stupid Well what about a Canon EOS M?! (I bought the 14mm and the guy threw in an even cheaper GF2, $330 shipped )
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# ? Sep 25, 2014 06:41 |
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Just bought an used NEX-6 in Australia with additional bits: Kit Lens SELP1650, SEL50F18, SEL16F28 and Ultra Wide Converter VCL-ECU1 for $650 shipped, from eBay. Did I get a decent deal? First mirrorless/DSLR quality system for me, coming from a Canon s90.
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# ? Sep 29, 2014 04:56 |
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That's not too bad a deal at all, and the 50mm f1.8 is an ok lens. I would personally sell either the 16-50 or the 16mm + UWC on ebay, since they're bother not super great lenses, and get either the Sigma 19mm or Sony 20mm, but that can come later.
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# ? Sep 29, 2014 10:45 |
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I'm looking to replace an aging Lumix point-and-shoot and a borrowed bulky Canon 400d since I'm getting more and more interested in photography and I find that I don't like the pictures coming out of the Lumix and I keep coming up with reasons to bring the (relatively) massive Canon. Something like the x100t would be awesome (especially with those gorgeous filters) but TBH it's a bit too expensive for me. I've been looking at the Sony a5000 (or the upcoming a5100, I guess) which seem to be both very tiny and very nice. Are there any alternatives that you'd recommend over the Sony? Most of my shooting will be available light/outdoors-type stuff, at least initially.
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# ? Sep 29, 2014 14:22 |
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The A6000 isn't that much more expensive ($150 give or take) and would be a substantial upgrade. Or buy a used one from KEH for $528 if price is important. The two cardinal rules of photography are "shoot more pictures" and "buy used".
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# ? Sep 29, 2014 14:31 |
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Sagacity posted:I'm looking to replace an aging Lumix point-and-shoot and a borrowed bulky Canon 400d since I'm getting more and more interested in photography and I find that I don't like the pictures coming out of the Lumix and I keep coming up with reasons to bring the (relatively) massive Canon. Since both the x100t and the LX100 will be selling for MFSP for a while, I argue its much better deal to get a LX100 now. You should be able to sell it in a year and lose minimal money. IMO its one of x100t's closest competitors.
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# ? Sep 29, 2014 14:34 |
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I'm not too sure about the LX100, especially compared to the A6000. I guess there's not really a reason to wait for the A5100 to come out either, it's not THAT much smaller or lighter and is missing the viewfinder. Thanks for the tips!
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# ? Sep 29, 2014 14:47 |
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Do know that the A6000 is still pretty beefy next to your average point and shoot, and the only pancake lenses are the 16-50mm, 16mm and 20mm lenses. If size is a serious concern, maybe look at a M4/3 and one of the bodycap/pancake lenses for it. edit: Looking at it, the A6000 + one of the 3 pancakes are actually the same size as the LX100, so take that how you will. Karasu Tengu fucked around with this message at 15:36 on Sep 29, 2014 |
# ? Sep 29, 2014 15:04 |
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That's a good point. I think the Lumix DMC-GM1 would be fairly decent in that regard, I suppose? e: It's still fairly expensive over here (The Netherlands) though, especially compared to the cameras mentioned above it's not that much cheaper. e2: Gah, and now a secondhand Fuji X-E1 is available very near to me as well. Sigh. So many options! Sagacity fucked around with this message at 15:38 on Sep 29, 2014 |
# ? Sep 29, 2014 15:20 |
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Sagacity posted:e2: Gah, and now a secondhand Fuji X-E1 is available very near to me as well. Sigh. So many options! Get this with 35 1.4 or the 18-55 OIS and go to town.
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# ? Sep 29, 2014 21:00 |
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Sagacity posted:That's a good point. I think the Lumix DMC-GM1 would be fairly decent in that regard, I suppose? Fellow X-E1 owner here :-) I'm also from the Netherlands and I am right now selling the Fuji XF 35mm. If you want to get into the system cheap. My username [at] me.com for more info. ChirreD fucked around with this message at 07:33 on Sep 30, 2014 |
# ? Sep 30, 2014 07:31 |
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Thanks guys! But I'll think I'll start with the a5000 because it's really quite cheap and should still allow me to start experimenting a little. I'm sure once I catch the photography bug I'll be telling people to shut up and take my money on more expensive gear
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# ? Sep 30, 2014 10:01 |
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So I've now been able to really put the Wasabi Power and Progo brand BLN-1 batteries to use in my OMD EM-5 after shooting a Spartan Race and really hammer them. The OMD throws a bit of a fit with 3rd party batteries. The battery meter in the top left of the screen and EVF is the standard Full/66%/33%, with the Progo batteries, the gauge will show a full battery when a charged one is inserted, then about half the time the gauge will go from 66% to 33% in very short order, but will still hold charge for quite a while, even as it shows me a blinking red 33% gauge. To be fair, I was pounding the poo poo out of the batteries, taking about 37,000 pictures at around 8-9 FPS bursts. This happened a little less with the Wasabi batteries. At the end of the day, both the Wasabi and Progo batteries seem to discharge a little faster than the factory Olympus batteries, but not so much that it's a problem. For more typical use (travel, fun shots, etc) they run just fine. For reference, I was running the EM5 with the full battery grip, keeping a factory Oly battery in the body and swapping out the batteries in the grip as they died. I was going back and forth between using the 60mm f/2.8 macro and 75mm f/1.8, full speed burst mode. Weather was fairly warm (low 80s).
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# ? Sep 30, 2014 15:12 |
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# ? Apr 26, 2024 12:41 |
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What would be a fair selling price for a Fuji X-E1 with the 18mm and 35mm lenses?
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# ? Oct 2, 2014 01:02 |