|
Mishra posted:How viable is reloading in a small Condo? I don't really have the space for a permanent setup but the island in my kitchen is solid enough to clamp stuff to. Is it worth trying to reload for my Garand? Of course given how far downrange that thing flings brass I collect only one case per clip. There's quite a few closet reloading benches in this thread, as well as a couple of setups with some of those Home Depot wire shelves with a block of wood clamped to them to hold the press.
|
| # ? Dec 5, 2011 21:31 |
|
|
|
| # ? May 19, 2013 00:52 |
|
|
Yeah I'm using the harbor freight table mentioned in this or the last reloading thread with everything bolted to it just fine. Also I found out yesterday what taper crimping really was and that I wasn't doing it, whoops. AND found out why can happen if you don't: The portion of my feedramp which is part of my .40's frame, which is an aluminum allow, has a few ridges gouged into it from my non-TC'ed shells. I now know what to do and am going to use the dreaded dremmel to fix my feed ramp. :\
|
| # ? Dec 5, 2011 21:51 |
|
|
Sten Freak posted:AND found out why can happen if you don't: The portion of my feedramp which is part of my .40's frame, which is an aluminum allow, has a few ridges gouged into it from my non-TC'ed shells. Woah. Sounds like you might want to ease off the bell.
|
| # ? Dec 5, 2011 21:59 |
|
|
As traffic-chat seems to be happening in the general question thread I thought I'd crosspost this here too: quote:I’m just playing with the idea for now, but would you guys be able to put together an integrally suppressed De Lisle style build firing .45-70? If so, what might it cost? quote:It's certainly possible. I don't reload and don't have room to at this point. And I'd probably need a .45-70 rifle to test stuff first, which I don't have at this point either. Can one of you folks with quickload run some numbers and see if there's a suitable loading to be at least nearly all ignited by the time it reaches the suppressed portion of the barrel? I'm guessing maybe 7" of barrel, 9.5" of suppressor?
|
| # ? Dec 5, 2011 22:48 |
|
|
Oh crap, I'm using a medium burning powder (Unique) and that post makes me think it's probably a bad idea to run it through a ported integral suppressor. The ports start 1" from the chamber. BTW, I haven't tried them in the suppressor yet so glad I read that.thermobollocks posted:Woah. Sounds like you might want to ease off the bell.  .
|
| # ? Dec 5, 2011 22:58 |
|
|
He followed up with: quote:One way around the unburned powder issue is to pour some water through the bore after a few shots. So.. just don't do a bunch of mag dumps or you might be holding a pipe bomb.
|
| # ? Dec 5, 2011 23:02 |
|
|
Sten Freak posted:Oh crap, I'm using a medium burning powder (Unique) and that post makes me think it's probably a bad idea to run it through a ported integral suppressor. The ports start 1" from the chamber. BTW, I haven't tried them in the suppressor yet so glad I read that. It could be that the bullets are grinding against your feed ramp, but it seems like the case mouth would be more likely. It's doing worse than factory ammo, right? That stuff usually doesn't have a crimp so much. Also, make sure your hellacrimped rounds will actually sit in the chamber correctly. What kind of gun is this?
|
| # ? Dec 5, 2011 23:08 |
|
|
And another followup if it helps figure loading data: quote:
|
| # ? Dec 5, 2011 23:32 |
|
|
thermobollocks posted:It could be that the bullets are grinding against your feed ramp, but it seems like the case mouth would be more likely. It's doing worse than factory ammo, right? That stuff usually doesn't have a crimp so much. Also, make sure your hellacrimped rounds will actually sit in the chamber correctly. What kind of gun is this? Looking at some factory rounds I don't see the smooth transition like I'm getting so I assume my crimp is way more. I like Turtles posted:So.. just don't do a bunch of mag dumps or you might be holding a pipe bomb.
|
| # ? Dec 6, 2011 01:10 |
|
|
I don't have QuickLoad (yet!) so I can't help you out with your suppressed .45-70 problem. But I do have interest in it. Were you planning on loading subsonic for the suppressor, or do you not care? With the shorter barrel you'll have due to the porting, it should be easier to get it subsonic. But then, if you're using ammo loaded for rifles, that also means more unburned powder. So far all my loading had been for my 1859, and I try to load as hot and as fast as I can. I've also considered loading some subsonics, with Oregon Trail lead bullets and Trail Boss powder. Not sure how that would work out of a shorter barrel. But now you've bot me thinking of taking an 1895, porting the barrel starting just past the magazine, and getting an integral suppressor put over that. I need to measure how long the barrel would be before the porting, and see how that compares to your DeLisle plans. I'll look into some pistol load data for .45-70, and maybe purchase QuickLoad and see what I can come up with.
|
| # ? Dec 6, 2011 03:34 |
|
|
Running subsonic sounds like the way to go. This would be be a range toy pure and simple.
|
| # ? Dec 6, 2011 03:44 |
|
|
I like turtles posted:Running subsonic sounds like the way to go. This would be be a range toy pure and simple. I can confirm that subsonic rounds are hilarious!
|
| # ? Dec 6, 2011 06:35 |
|
|
I own a LOT of 50 BMG reloading stuff but I only have a few primers, maybe around 450 of the 500 count CCI #35 I bought for around $200 a few years back. I just bought 1000 count of these for $212 delivered http://www.natchezss.com/product.cf...&prodID=TLKVB50
|
| # ? Dec 6, 2011 08:31 |
|
|
thermobollocks posted:Woah. Sounds like you might want to ease off the bell. I was trying to explain to a friend of mine what happens during that stage of the reloading process and I couldn't think of it. I told him, "Right now, I am bellend'ing the brass." Neither of us is British, but it is such a great slang word.
|
| # ? Dec 6, 2011 13:31 |
|
|
If you don't have a Chargemaster, it's time to buy one. $279 at Natchez. Add another $21 worth of RCBS stuff to qualify for a $50 rebate. This is as cheap as I've seen them in the past couple of years. They also have good prices on reloading kits from RCBS and Lee, if that's your thing. Link
|
| # ? Dec 6, 2011 17:18 |
|
|
dexefiend posted:I was trying to explain to a friend of mine what happens during that stage of the reloading process and I couldn't think of it. Man, you gotta be careful when you're bellending your brass. Thrust your hips too hard, and you can end up with split case mouths. And after too many cases, you might get one with a plugged up flash hole. Then you have to wait a few hours while you rest up before you can start on the next batch.
|
| # ? Dec 6, 2011 17:37 |
|
|
GroovinPickle posted:If you don't have a Chargemaster, it's time to buy one. It's xmas time. Why do you do this?
|
| # ? Dec 6, 2011 20:08 |
|
|
I am looking to get into reloading .45acp. I want to use cast bullets and a powder that fills up the case and meters well. Can anyone recommend a bullet/powder combo?
|
| # ? Dec 8, 2011 05:00 |
|
|
bunnielab posted:I am looking to get into reloading .45acp. I want to use cast bullets and a powder that fills up the case and meters well. Can anyone recommend a bullet/powder combo? 230gn round nose and AA#7. AA#7 will make fireballs, though.
|
| # ? Dec 8, 2011 16:30 |
|
|
thermobollocks posted:230gn round nose and AA#7. You say that like it's a problem. 
|
| # ? Dec 8, 2011 16:32 |
|
|
MazeOfTzeentch posted:You say that like it's a problem. More of a disclaimer, really 
|
| # ? Dec 8, 2011 18:55 |
|
|
I have an uninsulated garage I'd like to set up my reloading equipment in. It's sealed from rain and such, but it's still susceptible to heat/cold. Right now, it's cold, but usually doesn't drop down below 30 degrees overnight, or if it does, it doesn't stay there for more than a couple of days. What problems could come from this? Is it safe to store components out there? Will the cold, etc affect my dies (i.e., cause shrinkage)?
|
| # ? Dec 9, 2011 02:26 |
|
|
Mishra posted:How viable is reloading in a small Condo? I don't really have the space for a permanent setup but the island in my kitchen is solid enough to clamp stuff to. Is it worth trying to reload for my Garand? Of course given how far downrange that thing flings brass I collect only one case per clip. I reload for my Garand and my RCBS single stage press is more than sufficient, so your island should be fine. You might even be OK with a hand press but I haven't tried resizing with one.
|
| # ? Dec 9, 2011 05:00 |
|
|
QuarkMartial posted:I have an uninsulated garage I'd like to set up my reloading equipment in. It's sealed from rain and such, but it's still susceptible to heat/cold. Right now, it's cold, but usually doesn't drop down below 30 degrees overnight, or if it does, it doesn't stay there for more than a couple of days. What problems could come from this? Is it safe to store components out there? Will the cold, etc affect my dies (i.e., cause shrinkage)? I wouldn't store powder/primers out there... otherwise the rest should be fine... (it's not the cold you worry about it's the heat)
|
| # ? Dec 9, 2011 05:24 |
|
TRAP SET!
|
shalafi4 posted:I wouldn't store powder/primers out there... otherwise the rest should be fine... (it's not the cold you worry about it's the heat) What about the humidity? I would expect that to be the biggest issue.
|
| # ? Dec 9, 2011 07:44 |
|
|
Would expansion from temperature swings mean that you might have to fine adjust seating dies and the like?
|
| # ? Dec 9, 2011 16:01 |
|
|
Can 60/40 solder (60% tin, 40% lead) be used to cast bullets? If it can be used, is it a good idea?
|
| # ? Dec 9, 2011 17:12 |
|
|
Fast burning powders: Is there one that is universally loved and hopefully in the Speer reloading manual? Looking for a fast burning pistol powder to use for mostly 9mm in a ported suppressor.
|
| # ? Dec 9, 2011 20:48 |
|
|
shalafi4 posted:I wouldn't store powder/primers out there... otherwise the rest should be fine... (it's not the cold you worry about it's the heat) Gotcha, thanks! Sten Freak posted:Would expansion from temperature swings mean that you might have to fine adjust seating dies and the like? That's what I'm wondering... Well, it looks like I'll just set everything up in the garage and cart around the primers, powder, and dies. Still simpler than trying to reload in the house 
|
| # ? Dec 10, 2011 00:08 |
|
|
I've left my primers and powders out in my barely insulated garage for quite some time, and haven't noticed any problems. Primers still go bang, powder still burns, bullets to flying down range. I used to have my reloading setup out in the garage too, and never had a problem with dies losing their adjustment, but then I was only loading plinking ammo. Unless it's really humid, or gets wet, I wouldn't worry about it.
|
| # ? Dec 10, 2011 00:12 |
|
|
taqueso posted:Can 60/40 solder (60% tin, 40% lead) be used to cast bullets? If it can be used, is it a good idea? No, it wouldn't work well, and it would be more expensive than lead. Casting alloy is more like 1 to 3% tin. Sources for lead: tire shop - wheel weights. fewer weights are lead anymore, and most of them are spoken for by bullet casters. metal recyclers - pay by the pound range berms - I've collected pistol and muzzleloader rounds from the sand of an outdoor range. Takes time and limited supply, but what you do find has the perfect mix of tin, antimony and lead already. Collected when the range is not in use, obviously. plumbing supply lead - I've never used this one, but it's supposed to be out there somewhere, in sheets. I would expect it to be pricier than a recyler. isotope lead - my latest favorite. Any hospital with a nuclear medicine dept gets meds in little lead cylinders: many, many of them. It costs money to return them, so they pile up in a corner. If they don't age them 60 days, age them yourself to make sure they've lost any radioactivity.
|
| # ? Dec 10, 2011 02:50 |
|
|
Bedbouncer posted:No, it wouldn't work well, and it would be more expensive than lead. Casting alloy is more like 1 to 3% tin.
|
| # ? Dec 10, 2011 06:37 |
|
|
Bedbouncer posted:isotope lead - my latest favorite. Any hospital with a nuclear medicine dept gets meds in little lead cylinders: many, many of them. It costs money to return them, so they pile up in a corner. If they don't age them 60 days, age them yourself to make sure they've lost any radioactivity. Until I read far enough to know that you were after the shipping container, I thought you had gone thoroughly insane and were shooting isotopically enriched lead. Do be careful about not creating another Goiânia incident. That said, 210Pb is mildly radioactive. This caused a brief run on old church roofs, since aging lead for a century or so after smelting it from the ore will reduce the effect lead solder has on nearby semiconductors. It should shoot the same as ever. Tin-lead solder will have different mechanical properties as well as the amount of expansion or contraction on solidification. On the other hand, people have machined bullets out of brass stock. What would be really interesting would be using one of the amorphous metal alloys that has been recently developed.
|
| # ? Dec 10, 2011 07:39 |
|
|
gently caress that, free tracer rounds. PEW PEW PEW
|
| # ? Dec 10, 2011 07:43 |
|
|
taqueso posted:I figured that would be the case. I already have a bunch of solder bars, so cost isn't the issue. Just thought I might be able to find something more fun to do with them than sell on ebay. The stuff will be great for alloying whatever else you get to achieve the proper ratios. Its definitely got a use.
|
| # ? Dec 10, 2011 08:10 |
|
|
Bedbouncer posted:range berms - I've collected pistol and muzzleloader rounds from the sand of an outdoor range. Takes time and limited supply, but what you do find has the perfect mix of tin, antimony and lead already. Collected when the range is not in use, obviously. Most muzzleloaders use pure lead, jacketed rounds are also usually pure lead. You can never really be sure if what you get is the right stuff or not. You might get stuff in that general direction by picking up other cast shooters remains but every cast shooter tends to have his own recipe based on what he could pick up.
|
| # ? Dec 10, 2011 08:15 |
|
|
Wa11y posted:I've left my primers and powders out in my barely insulated garage for quite some time, and haven't noticed any problems. Primers still go bang, powder still burns, bullets to flying down range. I agree with this. All of my setup is in an uninsulated 12x20 shed. I have never had any problems and I live in Texas. Some of the power has been in a similar situation for nearly 20 years and it was still usable.
|
| # ? Dec 11, 2011 00:36 |
|
|
I would like to take a minute to talk about a primer storage experience. I recently received a group of Winchester large rifle primers and primed brass. They had been stored in an ammo can here in Wyoming's very cold, very dry, high latitude conditions. This ammo can had been in storage in the crawl space of a house for the last 10 years. They were not exposed to moisture directly, only the severe sub zero cold and heat over and over for 10 years. About 10% of them will not fire regardless of how many primer strikes they receive. None of this is empirical, but may serve to help you draw your own conclusions. I would also like to talk about tracers for a moment. There are many kinds of tracers that have exposed material at the rear. Others have an enclosure cup. Those without the enclosure cup, especially on 5.56 tracers, can fail to light off because the exposed material oxidizes enough to limit ignition. Long skinny 62gr "long range" 5.56 tracers with enclosure cup http://www.wideners.com/itemdetail....em_id=100000409 145gr 30-06/308 tracers with cup http://polygunbag.com/.30CalM25Trac...LargerView.html 150gr .310" for use in x54r/303brit/7.7Jap (x39 if you are adventurous) with cup? http://polygunbag.com/7.62x54RTracerTipsLargerView.html I have used the 30-06/308 in x54r and x39. I do really really wonder if those green tips actually light green or red.
|
| # ? Dec 15, 2011 15:31 |
|
|
Probably old news to seasoned reloaders, but as someone brand new to reloading, the Hornady Lock'n'Load Auto Charge is simply amazing. It cost more then my Lee 50th anniversary kit but is worth every cent. There's something really neat about picking up a very precisely weighed charge, pouring it into brass, seating the bullet, and having the next precise charge ready in 5-10 seconds.
|
| # ? Dec 17, 2011 11:40 |
|
|
|
| # ? May 19, 2013 00:52 |
|
|
I got a mosin and I may be getting into hand loading sometime in the future. Right now i'm buying ammo that comes in brown paper packages tied up in string. The case is almost copper colored. Are these shells that I can save to use to reload later? I have no idea who the manufacturer is, and the back is only stamped with the numbers 22 and 08. Edit: Actually, looking at bullet costs for reloading I probably wont be reloading this stuff as it's way cheaper to just buy it. But I would like to know if anyone knows the manufacturer just for curiosity's sake. CainFortea fucked around with this message at Dec 18, 2011 around 06:45 |
| # ? Dec 18, 2011 06:40 |
|
