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DeesGrandpa posted:So any of you loading .38spl, assuming I have the brass already, what are you guys spending per round on a basic cheapo plinking round? If you don't count the time? 4.2 cents.... (got somewhere around 800lbs of lead for free and do casting)
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| # ? Apr 14, 2012 18:50 |
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TRAP SET!
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| # ? May 21, 2013 09:03 |
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Rather than buying a box of 9mm I grabbed a box of Trail Boss.  I'm completely stoked to start loading some light 44mag 
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| # ? Apr 14, 2012 20:05 |
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QuarkMartial posted:Rather than buying a box of 9mm I grabbed a box of Trail Boss. I ran a USPSA match once as a joke shooting my 6" Model 29 with Trail Boss 44 Mag. It ruled.
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| # ? Apr 14, 2012 21:52 |
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Well, I am sold on trailboss. The drop was a little too much at 25 yards, so I will likely increase the load, but felt recoil was essentially zero. I will probably keep some around for new shooters to have fun with too.
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| # ? Apr 14, 2012 22:18 |
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I'm hoping it lives up to the hype. Put 150rds of my 44 mag reloads through my Redhawk today and I loved it, but the loading itself is kinda stout - 7.1gr Unique with a 240gr "Keith-Style" SWC from Missouri Bullet. I enjoyed it, even if I can't get a decent sight picture to save my life. Having a light 44mag load would be pretty sweet - I'm looking forward to toying with one soon
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| # ? Apr 14, 2012 22:48 |
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I'm tempted by that sale on 844 powder at Widener's, but I'm nervous about it because I can't run any load data for it through QuickLoad. 
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| # ? Apr 15, 2012 03:48 |
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I loaded up 100 rounds with my shotshell press. Will report back on eyeball status tomorrow.
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| # ? Apr 15, 2012 06:37 |
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infrared35 posted:I'm tempted by that sale on 844 powder at Widener's, but I'm nervous about it because I can't run any load data for it through QuickLoad. What manuals have load data for it? I see it's not listed anywhere on the online hodgdon site.
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| # ? Apr 15, 2012 11:04 |
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Gewehr 43 posted:What manuals have load data for it? I see it's not listed anywhere on the online hodgdon site. I haven't found any yet, but there are people all over Arfcom and other places publishing data. 
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| # ? Apr 15, 2012 13:28 |
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Well, I can't see what could possibly go wrong.
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| # ? Apr 15, 2012 14:06 |
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Gewehr 43 posted:Well, I can't see.... Is it because you've also tried arfcom's load data? 
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| # ? Apr 15, 2012 16:15 |
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If I remember right most people us H335 data for it.
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| # ? Apr 15, 2012 16:33 |
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Absolut_V posted:If I remember right most people us H335 data for it. Huh. According to Quickload, that looks pretty good. Maybe I will buy some after all.
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| # ? Apr 15, 2012 16:41 |
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I've you've already got a good powder that works for you I'm not sure I'd bother with the surplus pulldown powder. I figure it's worth $0.02/round in savings, which is not insignificant if you're loading in bulk, but for someone like me who shoots maybe 1000 rounds/year through an AR, I'll stick with the known-good stuff.
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| # ? Apr 15, 2012 17:20 |
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GroovinPickle posted:I've you've already got a good powder that works for you I'm not sure I'd bother with the surplus pulldown powder. I figure it's worth $0.02/round in savings, which is not insignificant if you're loading in bulk, but for someone like me who shoots maybe 1000 rounds/year through an AR, I'll stick with the known-good stuff. If I buy locally, I'm paying $30 a pound for powder. That translates to nearly 11 cents per round. If I buy the surplus stuff, it's less than four cents per round.
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| # ? Apr 15, 2012 17:25 |
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Split the difference and buy a well known brand online in bulk?
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| # ? Apr 15, 2012 17:35 |
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emathey posted:Split the difference and buy a well known brand online in bulk? You and your sensible answers. 
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| # ? Apr 15, 2012 17:38 |
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infrared35 posted:If I buy locally, I'm paying $30 a pound for powder. That translates to nearly 11 cents per round. If I buy the surplus stuff, it's less than four cents per round. I guess my point is that buying surplus over something like H335 or AA2230 only saves you about two cents per round, so for that $20-40/year (based on shooting 1000-2000 rounds/year) I'll stick with H335 or H322.
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| # ? Apr 15, 2012 17:41 |
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GroovinPickle posted:poo poo son what are you doing paying $30/pound? VV user spotted. 
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| # ? Apr 15, 2012 19:13 |
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thermobollocks posted:VV user spotted. All powders are $30 a pound locally.  Sometimes they go on sale for $25 a pound. 
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| # ? Apr 15, 2012 20:40 |
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infrared35 posted:All powders are $30 a pound locally. You poor bastard.  Also, I got my shotshell press assembled and made some baller clay-asploding ammo without losing any eyeballs 
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| # ? Apr 16, 2012 00:36 |
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 Which M1 do I want to blow up? I'm not sure if Obamarama part II is hitting or what but Sportsmans Warehouse had no small magnum rifle primers and very little primers period. Was going to use H110 with magnums, but had to get IMR 4227 which calls for a std primer. The rounds are 100 gr and my manual shows a COAL for partially jacketed rounds like this but a different brand. Then the Lee dies guide shows a greater min OAL for IMR 4227 and one other powder, though the notes say that min is when using a max load and I'm at min. In short  . There are a few sloppy variables here concerning COAL but I am starting at the min load so realistically -should- be OK.The brass is once fired Magtech. Rem primers (only available). I also bought some 110 gr rounds to play with.
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| # ? Apr 16, 2012 04:02 |
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Sten Freak posted:Are the bullets supposed to shove the brass out like that? They look a bit packed in.
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| # ? Apr 16, 2012 04:35 |
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infrared35 posted:All powders are $30 a pound locally. You guys are so cute with your super cheap powders. VV N3xx powders here are 43 euros a pound (well, 500grams). N1xx powders come in 2lbs (1kg) cans and are 65-75 euros. Black powder (swiss) is 80 euros for 2lbs.
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| # ? Apr 16, 2012 08:09 |
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One of my employees was cleaning out his father in-laws garage that recently passed away. He found this powder and brought it in for me. I assume it's no good because of how old it looks. What's the best way to get rid of this stuff?
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| # ? Apr 16, 2012 13:19 |
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Mystery powder is not good. If you're not 100% sure that what it's labeled as is exactly what it is don't use it. You cannot do this visually. Looking at the labels it looks old as hell too, and modern load data might not be kosher with it. Who knows? It's better to be safe than sorry. I think you can just toss it outside on your lawn or whatever, as long as it's not in one big pile I don't see it doing anything bad.
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| # ? Apr 16, 2012 13:35 |
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On disposal, I read you shouldn't vacuum powder since the static can ignite it. So if you spill powder on carpet, you're hosed. Or is the vacuum warning more for huge tubs and not a single round's worth?
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| # ? Apr 16, 2012 13:39 |
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I have vacuumed up small bits of powder before, your mileage may vary, don't burn your house down, no warranties express or implied.
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| # ? Apr 16, 2012 13:46 |
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Javid posted:On disposal, I read you shouldn't vacuum powder since the static can ignite it. So if you spill powder on carpet, you're hosed. Or is the vacuum warning more for huge tubs and not a single round's worth? I'm just thinking out loud here, but I would imagine that if you've got a substantial amount of powder in your carpet (more than a couple grains?) you could get it up safely with one of those carpet shampoo thingies (like a Rug Doctor).
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| # ? Apr 16, 2012 13:49 |
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I haven't spilled it, it's still in the containers but, I'm not going to use it. I don't think I can just throw it in the dumpster. Mix it with water?
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| # ? Apr 16, 2012 14:34 |
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emathey posted:I think you can just toss it outside on your lawn or whatever, as long as it's not in one big pile I don't see it doing anything bad. Or you could pour it in a line and toss a match (not on your lawn, dummy).
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| # ? Apr 16, 2012 14:40 |
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GroovinPickle posted:Do this. Spread it around like fertilizer, and water it. The watering is more for the fertilizer aspect than for safety. Cool, thanks
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| # ? Apr 16, 2012 14:47 |
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I've vacuumed smokeless powder before. Static won't ignite it, and the autoignition point of nitrocellulose is around 160 degrees C (I think smokeless is a bit hotter than this because of the stabilizers) so it's unlikely to be an issue. Still, brush up what you can of whatever you spill, and spread it around the lawn, as the other guys have said. It's got lotsa nitrogen so it should be good for it! You can vacuum up whatever's left without worry. Primers, on the other hand... Don't!
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| # ? Apr 16, 2012 15:21 |
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Those lint roller sticky paper thingys are good for flat carpet. Not Nipsy, This is how all my rounds look, more or less. I was taught that the less flare you use the better because it's less the brass gets reshaped, and it helps prevent setback. But I'm still somewhat new to reloading so if my rounds look screwed up or if I'm doing something wrong I'm all ears.
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| # ? Apr 16, 2012 15:41 |
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Sten Freak posted:Those lint roller sticky paper thingys are good for flat carpet. Your crimp's going to prevent setback more than flaring less. Flaring less helps your brass live longer in certain cases.
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| # ? Apr 16, 2012 15:59 |
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I know almost nothing about reloading, but I think I'll have to dip my toes in it to come up with 7.65mm Roth Sauer ammo for my Frommer 1910. As far as I can tell, it's basically 32acp but the brass is a few mm shorter. I saw a Youtube video on trimming cases, but it looked like you had to get a tool that was made to the correct specs of the cartridge you're loading. If I could find Roth-Sauer reloading stuff, that would be awesome, but I'm thinking I'll have to go the custom route on it. What sort of tool would accomplish this? I'm thinking I'd need some 32acp brass to trim, and then basically everything else to reload 32acp (is this a common/easy caliber to reload?) and go through the normal steps. Does that seem right? Any advice?
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| # ? Apr 16, 2012 16:08 |
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Sten Freak posted:Those lint roller sticky paper thingys are good for flat carpet. Using less flare is meant to extend brass life, as pointed out by thermobollocks. I'm more wondering about this:  versus this:  See the foreskin/turtleneck thing going on with your rounds? That doesn't look right. Like the bullets are too big. Are you sure you've got the right .30 bullets? What bullets are those?
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| # ? Apr 16, 2012 16:10 |
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thermobollocks posted:Your crimp's going to prevent setback more than flaring less. Flaring less helps your brass live longer in certain cases. By the way, do your loads often show the projectile's profile off through the brass like these? Because mine usually do and all have worked fine. Well except for my .40 which had no crimp causing the rim to catch on the feedramp but that may have also been due to length problems and the gun itself.
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| # ? Apr 16, 2012 16:11 |
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Not Nipsy Russell posted:Using less flare is meant to extend brass life, as pointed out by thermobollocks. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/22...cket-box-of-100 E: and yes I knew less flare was to extend brass life but was told it would help with setback issues too.
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| # ? Apr 16, 2012 16:13 |
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| # ? May 21, 2013 09:03 |
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Sten Freak posted:I knew what you were talking about. These are .308 M1 carbine projos yes. Huh, weird. I guess if the round's the right diameter, and it chambers, pushing the brass out like that may not matter. It's really strange, though. Maybe it's the brass? Military brass is generally thicker - perhaps there's some swaging going on with the military stuff? What did the factory Magtech ammo look like? Oh - and no offense meant at all - I'd just never heard the flaring as a means to control setback thing. Only crimping.
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| # ? Apr 16, 2012 16:19 |
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