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Thanks, that might work if it doesn't mess up the table's finish, but the rubber looks like it would help that...maybe if I put a cloth between it would help even more? As for storage space, we have plenty of that - just out of furniture space.
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| # ? Apr 19, 2012 20:46 |
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| # ? May 24, 2013 02:26 |
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It's the wood that would be in contact with the top of the table, but yeah, rubber feet on the underside. You can sort of see what I'm talking about in this picture, although the clamps are kind of obscured: 
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| # ? Apr 19, 2012 21:52 |
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GroovinPickle posted:It's the wood that would be in contact with the top of the table, but yeah, rubber feet on the underside. You have two Chargemasters? I thought I was top tier player for having one of them.
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| # ? Apr 19, 2012 23:08 |
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chise posted:You have two Chargemasters? I thought I was top tier player for having one of them. u jelly? im jelly. Isn't that like 500-700 bucks worth of scales alone?
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| # ? Apr 19, 2012 23:49 |
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Actually I sold one of them because I realized that as someone who shoots about 100 rounds/month these days, I really don't need a powder charge to be available as fast as I can pour them and seat bullets. Nice to have a backup, though.
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| # ? Apr 20, 2012 01:33 |
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I have a bunk bed and just clamp my press to the ladder when I feel like loading. A table would be a decent upgrade. But it works.
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| # ? Apr 20, 2012 07:53 |
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I bought a Harbor Freight metal framed table probably linked early in this thread. Then at someone's suggestion didn't install the particle board top but a nice thick piece of plywood. It's great, though top heavy without something weighting the bottom shelf. This was for my condo. Now that I've got a gun room I think I'm going to leave the press mounted to the HF table. Portable has benefits. We'll see long term but I cannot think of a reason to move it to the bench yet. Another friend showed me his portable setup which is a rolling auto toolbox with the press mounted on the top. It's a more expensive solution but looks slick and very functional. E: How many of you guys recycle your non-reloadable brass? There's a recycling center that buys "contaminated" brass here for .75/pound IIRC. I've got quite a bit of 8mm brass and odds and ends I'm going to drop off eventually.
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| # ? Apr 20, 2012 13:22 |
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I used a Workmate as a loading bench when I lived in an apartment. When you're not loading it just folds up.
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| # ? Apr 20, 2012 13:28 |
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Sten Freak posted:E: How many of you guys recycle your non-reloadable brass? There's a recycling center that buys "contaminated" brass here for .75/pound IIRC. I've got quite a bit of 8mm brass and odds and ends I'm going to drop off eventually. I've got a five gallon bucket mostly full of non-reloadable brass, and eventually when it gets full, I'll see about finding a recycler who will buy it. I fill it with everything. Shavings from trimming brass, spent primers, .40S&W, split cases, crap cases, anything brass or nickle plated brass that I can't or won't use.
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| # ? Apr 20, 2012 13:41 |
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I'm guessing this is crap? Thanks for all your advice so far, a few more questions: Where's the best and cheapest bullets? Powder is best to be bought local, correct? Anyone local to Raleigh, NC and know who I should buy from? Are primers the same way? If the reloading stuff up top is crap, I know dillon is the highest recommended one - any advice on finding a good used one? blackknight5k fucked around with this message at Apr 21, 2012 around 02:38 |
| # ? Apr 21, 2012 02:32 |
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blackknight5k posted:I'm guessing this is crap? RCBS makes good stuff. Is the workbench itself included in this deal? If it isn't, $375 is way too much for whats pictured. A new RCBS master kit can be had for $400.
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| # ? Apr 21, 2012 02:55 |
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I sent an email to find out what exactly what is included, I guess we will find out...
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| # ? Apr 21, 2012 03:01 |
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George Zimmer posted:RCBS makes good stuff. Is the workbench itself included in this deal? If it isn't, $375 is way too much for whats pictured. A new RCBS master kit can be had for $400. Primers and powder are best bought locally to avoid hefty hazmat fees.
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| # ? Apr 21, 2012 04:16 |
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Not Nipsy Russell posted:Primers and powder are best bought locally to avoid hefty hazmat fees. True, but it's not clear exactly what all is included in the sale.
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| # ? Apr 21, 2012 04:23 |
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I have read in several relatively trustworthy places (but have not confirmed) that you can dispose of primers by dropping them in a bucket of oil.
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| # ? Apr 21, 2012 04:59 |
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kwantam posted:I have read in several relatively trustworthy places (but have not confirmed) that you can dispose of primers by dropping them in a bucket of oil. Why would you want to?
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| # ? Apr 21, 2012 06:09 |
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blackknight5k posted:I'm guessing this is crap? If you can talk the guy down on the stuff pictured, it's good hardware. I actually got that exact press and powder thrower recently - but for like $120.
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| # ? Apr 21, 2012 06:38 |
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kwantam posted:I have read in several relatively trustworthy places (but have not confirmed) that you can dispose of primers by dropping them in a bucket of oil. The fastest way I've found is to strike them with the firing pin of my favorite gun.
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| # ? Apr 21, 2012 07:04 |
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kwantam posted:I have read in several relatively trustworthy places (but have not confirmed) that you can dispose of primers by dropping them in a bucket of oil. any organic solvent will work along with plain old water.
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| # ? Apr 21, 2012 08:29 |
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TRAP SET!
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Not Nipsy Russell posted:Primers and powder are best bought locally to avoid hefty hazmat fees. I just got yelled at by the Internet for buying powder and primers locally, because I was "paying too much." 
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| # ? Apr 21, 2012 14:53 |
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So I just bought a case of fiocchi plinking 9mm- can I save all this brass while I'm saving money for a press and reload using it? It would save me a bunch /round.
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| # ? Apr 21, 2012 16:09 |
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areyoucontagious posted:So I just bought a case of fiocchi plinking 9mm- can I save all this brass while I'm saving money for a press and reload using it? It would save me a bunch /round. Pretty sure it's fine for reloading. The only real problem commercial brass I've seen in 9mm is S&B, which requires swaging of the primer pockets. 
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| # ? Apr 21, 2012 16:23 |
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Infrared, is that older S&B? Cause 2010 production doesn't have this problem.
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| # ? Apr 21, 2012 16:29 |
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I'm trying to price out how much money / round I'd end up saving (excluding startup costs) and this is my list of supplies, just to estimate prices. I'm going to buy a reloading manual (ABC's sounds good) and figure things are going to change, but is this a reasonable list? Brass: Free! (saved from plinking with store-bought ammo) Bullets: Missouri Bullet Company 9mm 115gr $59/1000 Powder: Hodgdon's Titegroup $23.99/ 1lb Primers: Federal Primers, $40/1000 Total cost/case: $122.99 Cost/Round: 12 cents Cost/round for Fiocchi ammo I just bought: 23 cents Sweet!
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| # ? Apr 21, 2012 17:25 |
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Sten Freak posted:Infrared, is that older S&B? Cause 2010 production doesn't have this problem. Probably; all the S&B brass I have is pre-2005.
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| # ? Apr 21, 2012 17:59 |
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infrared35 posted:Probably; all the S&B brass I have is pre-2005. Makes sense. I remember reading complaints about their brass quite a while ago. E: Had some .40 loading issues this eve. One case completely buckled in the die. I was thinking maybe not enough flare or too much crimp. Next couple were fine, then 2 more in a row so I pulled my die out, was trying to remove RCBS's horrible locking ring and the die fell off the press on to my tray with 25 or whatever already measured cases, screwing all of them up and spilling a bunch of powder everywhere.  Going to flare more and back the body of the die out just a bit. I may have to post pics of the screwed up rounds cause they're impressive.
Sten Freak fucked around with this message at Apr 22, 2012 around 00:24 |
| # ? Apr 21, 2012 18:12 |
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areyoucontagious posted:I'm trying to price out how much money / round I'd end up saving (excluding startup costs) and this is my list of supplies, just to estimate prices. I'm going to buy a reloading manual (ABC's sounds good) and figure things are going to change, but is this a reasonable list? FYI: ABCs of Reloading isn't a reloading manual (i.e., a book that has various loadings for different cartridges). Every reloader should have a copy of ABCs and read through it multiple times before reloading, but it doesn't have any load data in it. For that I'd say grab a manual from Hornady or.... Well, the other ones slip my mind right now.
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| # ? Apr 22, 2012 00:36 |
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ABCs is $1.99 on Amazon's Kindle store.
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| # ? Apr 22, 2012 01:43 |
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Lyman or Lee for general loads. Bullet manufacture like Speer, Barnes or Sierra for specific bullets. Freebie powder manufactuer's pamphlets for cross-referencing.
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| # ? Apr 22, 2012 01:48 |
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"Dear Hornady - Your 148 grain hollow base wadcutters for .38 special are the tits, if tits were perfectly cylindrical and made of lead. I love them (here I am referring to both your bullets and to tits). However, the lube you coat them with is horrible. When I'm done loading, my fingers feel the way they do after I've eaten an entire bag of Cheetos. I speak from experience on this matter. Please, for the love of god; can you find some other way to lube your HBWCs? Sincerely - Not Nipsy Russell" "P.S.: I do enjoy the way the lube smells like maple syrup, though." Actual thread content: Does anyone know a good way to keep my dies clean? Is it safe to use cleaners that might leave a residue inside them? I'm thinking the answer is "no". So - something volatile like NCBC? WD40? These are carbide dies.
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| # ? Apr 23, 2012 02:29 |
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I can't help you with your bullet problem, but baked Cheetos are pretty good and not greasy, hth.
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| # ? Apr 23, 2012 02:34 |
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Not Nipsy Russell posted:Actual thread content: Does anyone know a good way to keep my dies clean? Is it safe to use cleaners that might leave a residue inside them? I'm thinking the answer is "no". So - something volatile like NCBC? WD40? These are carbide dies. Carbide isn't going to be dissolved by anything, so blast away. Acetone works great to clean pretty much anything off of metals.
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| # ? Apr 23, 2012 02:36 |
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I have loaded a ton of the Mangus bullets HBWC, they are less sticky, but I tumble lube them with Lee Alox so the stickiness is still there.
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| # ? Apr 23, 2012 02:45 |
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I've cleaned my dies using a q-tip with alcohol. What not to do: 
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| # ? Apr 23, 2012 02:50 |
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Wow. Did you not dry them out afterwards or something?
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| # ? Apr 23, 2012 03:24 |
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Ok, so I've got the temporary mounting solution, someone sell me on a press. I read Dillon a lot in here, and I hear Lee getting talked down on. What's so horrible about Lee and what's so great about Dillon? Who else is pretty good?
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| # ? Apr 23, 2012 12:10 |
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Lee stuff is cheap, and you usually get what you pay for.
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| # ? Apr 23, 2012 12:14 |
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Mad Dragon posted:Lee stuff is cheap, and you usually get what you pay for. Lees cast turret press (the four station one) is great for the money, it can work as a single stage or as a midpoint to a progressive. I have loaded without exaggeration maybe 8-10k rounds on mine and I would always recommend it as a first press. The only flaw is the priming system, which can turn you into a rage monkey in short order. Other people seem to hate it less then I, however.
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| # ? Apr 23, 2012 12:55 |
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Some Lee stuff is decent, but a lot of it is cheap and breaks. I did use this press for quite a while and thought it was pretty good for the money. If you're loading precision rifle rounds or doing a lot of full-length resizing you might want to step it up, but that's fine to get started. For what it's worth my upgrade was to a Forster Co-Ax. edit: I'm assuming single-stage presses, so if you're talking about progressives I probably don't know anything
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| # ? Apr 23, 2012 12:58 |
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| # ? May 24, 2013 02:26 |
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Steak Flavored Gum posted:Wow. Did you not dry them out afterwards or something? These are a result of several screw ups coming together. I'm not sure exactly but what I think the main problem is after looking at everything is setting the crimp without seating the bullet to the proper depth - the case just gets squished down without the body of the bullet to support it. I *think* that's it. Maybe insufficient flare but I'd not bet on that. I just messed up and learned an important lesson: Never rush. It cannot hurt to check the first round against a known good one for a quick visual confirmation and hold up the micrometer screen against the manual. I had left my dies at the wrong seating depth then transposed numbers in my head.
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| # ? Apr 23, 2012 13:26 |
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