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Comfy sponk posted:Not gently caress up my gun. You'll definitely wanna re-test if you switch primers, magnum or not. I've heard stories of safe loads blowing primers and rupturing cases from a simple primer switch.
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| # ¿ Jun 27, 2011 22:24 |
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| # ¿ May 22, 2013 14:03 |
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Operating Rod posted:Does anyone reload 8mm Mauser? I'm looking for a nice, pleasant load for deer at 'brush' yardage in a Kar98K. I do! I use Remington 185 gr. PSP bullets, PRVI brass, 43.5 gr. H4895, and CCI LR primers. Why do you want to replicate a commercial load? You're probably better off just developing your own.
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| # ¿ Jul 10, 2011 21:48 |
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emathey posted:Tell me about pressure sensitivity goons! I'm using H355 in .223 and I chronoed some loads this month and would like to know how the weather change come winter time might affect my results. I made a load in the winter for .223 with AA2230, 25 grains over a 55 gr. FMJBT, the published max. A hot load, but still safe. Come this summer I shot a batch of that same load in 75-80 degree weather and I got loose primer pockets and some serious ejector shearing. This is why I always go middle of the road with ball powders.
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| # ¿ Jul 23, 2011 03:51 |
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emathey posted:My thoughts on it was I did the testing at the beginning of July, it's already hot as gently caress then, and I didn't have any pressure signs so I figured it'd be safe in the winter as well, I just wanted to see what other people had to say. Yeah you should be good.
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| # ¿ Jul 23, 2011 05:56 |
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MY RCBS hand priming tool has worked flawlessly.
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| # ¿ Feb 4, 2012 18:19 |
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QuarkMartial posted:I'm thinking of doing something similar to what I did when I had it set up before. I have some scrap wood that I can sandwich on top of and below where I want to mount the press and bolt it all together, which is what I think I'll probably end up doing. This is exactly what I do on an ordinary folding table. It's worked just fine, and I've done some pretty strenuous resizings on rifle cases. Should be more than adequate for your needs.
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| # ¿ Feb 4, 2012 20:39 |
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bunnielab posted:It is hard to throw expensive brass away but this is a good reminder why you need to. Word, especially if you bump the shoulder back every time you reload. If it's set for too much bump, you might get incipient case head separation. EDIT: Yeah, the articles on AccurateShooter/6mmBR are great, but the forum is just so-so. Lots of crotchety old benchresters. George Zimmer fucked around with this message at Feb 9, 2012 around 03:33 |
| # ¿ Feb 9, 2012 03:29 |
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Steak Flavored Gum posted:Well this loving sucks... I just stuck my very first case through my new Forster Benchrest Full-Length Sizing Die. gently caress. Whoa there, cowboy! Check to see what Forster's policies are, they might cover it. Also,  Did you use any lube?
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| # ¿ Feb 9, 2012 05:35 |
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Ah, alright. Sorry if I came off like a dick, it's just that that's the usual culprit. It's odd that you can't get the expander ball out. I've crushed some cases in the die before but was still able to extract the case. About the over-expanded cases, what chambering is this? I've heard once-fired 7.62 cases that were fired in machine guns can be an absolute pain to resize because of the loosely cut chambers.
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| # ¿ Feb 9, 2012 06:19 |
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Steak Flavored Gum posted:Dunno. You could try taking the expander ball out, sizing the case, then perhaps using an expanding mandrel to get the neck to the right width since it will likely be too small if resized without the expander.
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| # ¿ Feb 9, 2012 17:33 |
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Sacrilage posted:Anyone have a recommendation for .308 reload powder? I've used reloader 15, but I've not been super happy with the consistency of the powder I'm getting (maybe it's just the shipping to this god forsaken island). I've used IMR4064 in 7.5 Swiss, which is reasonably close to .308, with good results. Varget will also work since it's just a shorter grain version of 4064. EDIT: H4895 is good too
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| # ¿ Mar 6, 2012 19:10 |
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22 Eargesplitten posted:How much did your Swiss load come out to? Maybe I'm just missing the cheaper alternatives, but I'm having a really hard time finding a load that gets under 60 cents per round without using cheap 147 grain bullets. I don't remember, but it wasn't cheap, only slightly cheaper than buying GP11. I was using SMK's and somewhat pricey brass (Winchester .284 converted) though. The market for brass is what I think contributes to it the most. 7.5, when you can find it, isn't cheap and the alternatives for conversion aren't either.
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| # ¿ Mar 7, 2012 06:29 |
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shoognite posted:When reloading .223, what kind of case trimming will I be expecting, say per 1000 rounds? Every case? Just a few? Just every few if you don't run them too hot. I usually do it every other time I load a batch. EDIT: If you crimp into cannelures but still want to maintain a consistent COL from batch to batch, you may wanna do it every time.
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| # ¿ Mar 8, 2012 15:26 |
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shoognite posted:I was asking because I need to purchase a trimmer now. I was going to go cheapo, but I guess I might need something a little nicer You can make a somewhat decent setup with a hand trimmer if you have a cordless drill. Most companies make an adapter for it.
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| # ¿ Mar 8, 2012 18:48 |
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shoognite posted:This is what i might go for...Any suggestions? I haven't used their cordless adapter, but I really like my RCBS case trimmer. I'm sure the adapter is just as good quality wise. They also make a 3-way cutter that looks awesome since you won't have to chamfer the case mouths after trimming. EDIT: the cutter is an accessory, not an entirely different trimmer.
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| # ¿ Mar 8, 2012 19:31 |
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Gewehr 43 posted:I'm looking at snagging a few hundred rounds of the PMC .308 for my M14 clone. Any idea if the brass is any good for reloading? All I want is plinking ammo that I can reload. PMC is just okay. You might get loose primer pockets after a few loadings. For plinking though, it should be just fine.
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| # ¿ Mar 14, 2012 15:28 |
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QuarkMartial posted:Is PMC the same as Magtech? I want to say that's what my Magtech brass is stamped. Those casings have been the easiest for me to prime - the primer just pops right in. The pocket being a little loose would explain that. Possibly. I know Magtech is from Brazil and I'm pretty sure PMC is also from somewhere in Central/South America. EDIT: just looked it up, apparently PMC is from Korea. Who knows though, Magtech could just source their brass from PMC.
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| # ¿ Mar 14, 2012 15:45 |
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Gewehr 43 posted:Good to know, thanks. My hope is to buy 200-400 rounds of factory ammo to start with, then just reload from there. I'm indifferent to brand except for price. So far, the PMC is the cheapest brass cased stuff I can find. Any other recommendations? I really like Prvi Partizan brass, as well as factory ammo. Yeah, you won't save reloading the first time around with fresh brass, but you can mitigate the costs by buying once fired stuff. Beware of surplus 7.62 though, alot of it was fired in machine guns with super loose chambers and will require alot of force when resizing.
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| # ¿ Mar 14, 2012 22:23 |
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thermobollocks posted:Are you equally boned when you try to neck down .308 brass? Isn't .308 the parent case of 6.5 Creedmoor? If so, I'd imagine it be rather simple.
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| # ¿ Apr 2, 2012 01:53 |
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Gewehr 43 posted:I don't currently have an M1 Carbine, but I'm kicking around the idea of offering one of my Garands as trade fodder over of the CMP forums. The big turn off I've always had about carbines is the cost of ammo. If I can bring that down and I get to spend a few hours here and there dinking around making ammo for it, that'd be fun. I wouldn't worry too much about it. I think you'd really only have to learn to bell the case mouth, otherwise I think the process is the same.
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| # ¿ Apr 19, 2012 17:01 |
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blackknight5k posted:I'm guessing this is crap? RCBS makes good stuff. Is the workbench itself included in this deal? If it isn't, $375 is way too much for whats pictured. A new RCBS master kit can be had for $400.
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| # ¿ Apr 21, 2012 02:55 |
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Not Nipsy Russell posted:Primers and powder are best bought locally to avoid hefty hazmat fees. True, but it's not clear exactly what all is included in the sale.
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| # ¿ Apr 21, 2012 04:23 |
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What dies are youse guys using for .38 Special? Hopefully gonna start loading for it this summer (on a single stage  )
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| # ¿ Apr 27, 2012 15:52 |
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A FUCKIN CANARY!! posted:Do the Lee Factory Crimp dies actually apply a different kind of crimp, or is it just a convenience thing? I'm not sure about pistol dies, but on rifle rounds the crimp is usually way easier to apply and way stronger. If I had a choice to use a Lee FCD vs. applying a roll crimp on a seating die, I'd choose the Lee every time.
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2012 15:18 |
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Gewehr 43 posted:It's personal preference, and I certainly see why you do it, but I don't like the idea of having a bunch of charged cases sans bullets sitting around. It's too easy to spill and it opens the door for a double charge. I usually seat my bullets immediately after charging. Same here. In the very least, I'll put charged cases in a different loading block.
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| # ¿ May 1, 2012 01:55 |
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Looks like your seater die is screwed in too far. Try backing it out a little.
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| # ¿ Jun 1, 2012 23:48 |
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Javid posted:That's the crimp die I referred to, it's backed way the hell beyond where it would be contacting the case. I understood that, but you could have inadvertently set the seater, not the crimp die, too far in. I'm assuming you're referring to a Lee-type crimp die, right? Could also be happening in the sizing die for the same reason. I've had this happen a few times in my .223 loads, FWIW I don't think it had any adverse effect besides overstressing the brass and potentially reducing its usability over time.
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| # ¿ Jun 1, 2012 23:55 |
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Javid posted:It's an RCBS crimp + seater die, dunno how the Lee ones work but if there're separate crimp/seater dies then that's not what this is. It's definitely happening in the seat stage, though - I catch them at that point, but most of them feed so I don't just pull and redo them immediately. They're really only problematic when the gun's cold - once it warms up the bolt + hot chamber soften it up just enough that they feed fine. Still, wanna eliminate it if possible. I'd say back out on both your sizing and seating dies and load up a few dummies to see what happens. EDIT: missed the part about catching them during the seating stage. I'd say just the seating die then.
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| # ¿ Jun 2, 2012 00:06 |
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gfanikf posted:How do people generally store their powder and primers? I don't have a garage area, but I want some thing I can put in a closet and keep the items safely and separately stored, but not too expensive. My goal is to keep my infant (thought starting down the crawling path) and cat away from them an setup so nothing they do can cause in issue, and greatly upset my wife. I store my primers in a small plastic toolbox I got at a hardware store, along with all my other accessories and small tools. As for powder, I just keep it in the can beside said toolbox on my bench. I'd say some shelves in your closet that are out of reach for your cat/kid would work fine for storing stuff.
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| # ¿ Jun 23, 2012 04:15 |
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Butch Cassidy posted:I have used that model of caliber pretty extensively and can confirm that it is worth the money. Little fuckers can take a beating. I dunno if I'd call it my absolute favorite, but I love the versatility of IMR4064, even though it's a pain to meter.
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| # ¿ Sep 1, 2012 14:21 |
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gfanikf posted:It would either be Newtown in Bucks or if near the very end of the month Lower Merion in Montco. I would most likely be good with the same amount...which we need some more people. Ahhh I live in Telford but I'm currently in WV for school
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| # ¿ Oct 13, 2012 06:08 |
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So I was cleaning out my range bag today and found this: Mostly .38, but theres some .357 too. There's probably half of this still to be mined out of it. Gonna laod it all up when I go home for Thanksgiving break...on a single stage 
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| # ¿ Oct 31, 2012 00:18 |
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QuarkMartial posted:If you stage your loading properly, you could do it all in an afternoon. I don't doubt that I could, but it won't be the funnest reloading session I've ever had. How well does Trail Boss meter?
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| # ¿ Oct 31, 2012 19:07 |
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CAT ON THE COUCH!! posted:Is reloading .308 a good way to save money? How long would it take me to break even on the initial outlay? Should I just buy a shitload of bulk steel instead? Start saving your brass now. Once you start reloading, your initial costs will be significantly reduced.
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| # ¿ Nov 1, 2012 01:23 |
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Roundboy posted:Going to use a local goons single stage to try out some 7.5 swiss loadings. I've used 168 gr. SMK's with good results in my 7.5 loadings FWIW. Stick with Redding, they're well wroth the extra bucks. I had to resize .284 brass about a year ago to make into 7.5 and I definitely feel like the Redding dies played a huge part in them coming out as well as they did.
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| # ¿ Nov 2, 2012 00:07 |
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Roundboy posted:Thanks for the info. My plan is to try some 150g, but i am open to heavier depending on if I see any on the shelf at the local reloading place For powder, pretty much any powder that can be used in .308 can be used for 7.5 Swiss. I use 4064, which is more or less just a longer grained Varget, with good results. Reloader 15, H4895 are good too. You could get away with using 5 rounds of each load for testing if you don't wanna use too many components for testing (I personally try to conserve as much as I can). Making dummy rounds is a good idea for any cartridge you load IMO. Always nice to have a quick, easy way to set up your dies if something goes amiss for whatever reason.
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| # ¿ Nov 4, 2012 20:47 |
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Jeremy_X posted:I've been handed an interesting task by a friend of mine that has way more money than sense. He's decided to take up shooting after going out with me a few times. Any basic reloading starter set will suit him just fine. I have the RCBS kit and it's great. Honestly, unless you're an AGGIN' IN THE .1'S benchrester, you probably won't notice the difference in terms of precision of one setup to another, and even then it's debatable. The pistol rounds may be a bit tedious on a single stage, but if he's the type of guy who collects and abandons hobbies, it's probably best that he not drop a ton of money for a progressive press, even though he seems to have alot to spare.
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| # ¿ Nov 6, 2012 15:18 |
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Mishra posted:Ok so I'm finally looking to get started reloading .30 carbine and 7.5 Swiss, any recommendations on a trimmer? I know firsts would be best but I can't afford it right now, something motorized would be cool though. Do you have a cordless drill? RCBS make an adapter for their hand trimmer that utilizes one, works well from what I've seen. Combine that with the three way cutter that chamfers and deburrs at the same time and you'll be working at a fast pace.
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| # ¿ Nov 28, 2012 00:55 |
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| # ¿ May 22, 2013 14:03 |
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BarkingSquirrel posted:Is there like a decent set or kit or whatever for beginners? Only calibers I shoot are .22lr, 9mm and .223 so I'd only be reloading for the latter two. If you're really looking to do it on the cheap, you could use a handpress. Other than that, any standard reloading kit will suit you just fine. I really like my RCBS kit.
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| # ¿ Mar 6, 2013 01:40 |
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