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Hey there, key key. Do you have anything for the TP21 (Raptgb 915, or "Sugga")? I'm in Sweden as well and just bought one, I could use some help with the engine.
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| # ? Sep 27, 2011 16:54 |
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| # ? May 22, 2013 12:35 |
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key key posted:I work at a shop which was previously a military workshop for the swedish military (I'm Swedish and this workshop is in Sweden of course). My boss (the owner) used to work for the military and we still have a couple of guys who used to work there when they fixed military vehicles. I thought about this yesterday and asked one of them if we still had the manuals, and yes we do. Found them and took a couple of pics. That's awesome. In terms of manuals, the commercial manual covers everything pretty well, except for one area: electrical. The milspec volvo's are 24v, the commercial are 12v, so anything I could find on the original 24v system would be a godsend. I've managed to find an original 24v diagram and parts list (both in swedish and german - google translate is my friend here), but anything more I can find would be absolutely fantastic. Doccers fucked around with this message at Sep 27, 2011 around 18:09 |
| # ? Sep 27, 2011 17:55 |
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I also found a swedish site with english manuals in PDF, seems to be for the civil version but since they're in english, maybe they are easier for you to use. http://www.terrangbil.net/info.asp?category=27 In the left menu under "Dokument" you can find "Instruktionsbok" (Instruction manual) "Smorjschema" (Lubrication chart) "Delkatalog" (Parts catalog) "Generelt" (General information) "Service" (Obvious) "Motor" (Engine) "Elektriskt" (Electrical) Seems to be for 12v-systems though. "Drivlina" (Drivetrain/Driveline) "Bromsar" (Brakes) "Karosseri" (Body)
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| # ? Sep 28, 2011 14:44 |
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key key posted:I also found a swedish site with english manuals in PDF, seems to be for the civil version but since they're in english, maybe they are easier for you to use. Yep, this is the manual I already have, and it's for the 12v system. I just need to find whatever I can for the original 24v one, though at this point I'm considering strongly just converting everything over to 12v when I start the serious rebuild next summer, Some of the 24v parts (like the starter) simply cannot be found anymore.
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| # ? Sep 28, 2011 16:09 |
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Doccers posted:Yep, this is the manual I already have, and it's for the 12v system. That's too bad, it would be much cooler to keep it original  . I wonder where we get our parts from for the C300-series... I know we're trying to get rid of lots of parts that we had lying around for "Bandvagn 206" (google image search it...), we have several military crates with original spare parts kits and special tools that we are going to try to sell to the local fire department/rescue services because they still use Bandvagn 206.
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| # ? Sep 28, 2011 18:27 |
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key key posted:That's too bad, it would be much cooler to keep it original http://www.tatanka.nu bought the rights from Volvo to the C3 series trucks and all of the spares (what was left of them), as well as contracts/plans for parts. They're currently working with suppliers to make some new spares for things that haven't been available for years, but they haven't done starters and I don't know if they plan on doing so. I would love to keep it stock 24v, as not only am I trying to keep it in it's original configuration (all of the customization I'm planning on doing is going to be easily revertable back to stock form), but it would save me a massive rewiring headache. But if I can't get parts for it... I've got some time before I have to make that call though, and I've still got feelers out for a few of the non-findable components (starter is pretty much the main one I'm focused on, there's still 24v alternators for that pattern being made, and several british companies making 24v relays, etc). If you ever do a sell-off of your C303/304/306 parts, contact either Tatanka or myself. 
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| # ? Sep 28, 2011 19:32 |
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Doccers posted:starter is pretty much the main one I'm focused on If the starter is broken and you really need a new 24v one, I could ask my boss if/where it would be possible to get one and for how much. Since he has been working for the military many years and we still fix vehicles for them sometimes, I doubt there would be any problem getting hold of one...
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| # ? Sep 28, 2011 19:39 |
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Is the starter not rebuild-able?
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| # ? Sep 28, 2011 20:38 |
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My starter is not broken, I just want a spare for the point when it does fail. I'm sure it'll be rebuildable unless the casing cracks. It's not something I can just grab a part for if I break down in Bumfuck Wyoming, so I want to have a spare on-hand. It's not an immediate problem, and I've still got a few feelers out there.
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| # ? Sep 28, 2011 20:41 |
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Doccers posted:My starter is not broken, I just want a spare for the point when it does fail. I'm sure it'll be rebuildable unless the casing cracks. It's not something I can just grab a part for if I break down in Bumfuck Wyoming, so I want to have a spare on-hand. It's not an immediate problem, and I've still got a few feelers out there. Ahh, good! A friend of mine almost paid 3-400 for a NOS for his vintage Packard, until i showed him to a local re-builder 
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| # ? Sep 28, 2011 20:47 |
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Why not just step down to 12VDC and get a beefy 12v pre-emptively? There's plenty of hardware designed for that (inspecifically so truckers can run cootie lights), but there has to be a comparable match prebuilt somewhere.
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| # ? Sep 28, 2011 20:47 |
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Viggen posted:Why not just step down to 12VDC and get a beefy 12v pre-emptively? There's plenty of hardware designed for that (inspecifically so truckers can run cootie lights), but there has to be a comparable match prebuilt somewhere. Car starters are pushing like 100+ amps if I'm correct, and would blow that step-down you linked a hundred times over. Now I'm sure they make beefier stepdowns, but it's probably cheaper to just convert it to 12v and be done with it. Could be wrong though I'm just kind of assuming here.
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| # ? Sep 28, 2011 21:40 |
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VCR 2.0 posted:Car starters are pushing like 100+ amps if I'm correct, and would blow that step-down you linked a hundred times over. Now I'm sure they make beefier stepdowns, but it's probably cheaper to just convert it to 12v and be done with it. Surely I was demonstrating a fully functional inline device, and not just pointing out that they likely exist, but I have no idea where the hell to look for one. That thing would pop if you tried to run most $20 aftermarket stereos. It's rated for 1 amp.
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| # ? Sep 28, 2011 21:44 |
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Let's face it, the thing needs a Coffman starter  .
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| # ? Sep 28, 2011 21:59 |
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InitialDave posted:Let's face it, the thing needs a Coffman starter Eh, hand crank all the way. Remember, thumbs OUT.
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| # ? Sep 28, 2011 22:10 |
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Geirskogul posted:Eh, hand crank all the way. Remember, thumbs OUT. Nah, that needs an air start, like the truck from Mad Max 2. Something that crazy should make crazy noises as well.
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| # ? Sep 29, 2011 04:15 |
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Red_October_7000 posted:Nah, that needs an air start, like the truck from Mad Max 2. Something that crazy should make crazy noises as well. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rh1lxbelxVI Problem solved.
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| # ? Sep 29, 2011 05:22 |
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Update: Brake time! Not many photos this time because gently caress it I'm tired. On Saturday I went on a drive with lloyddobler and his volvo-buds, up to Bailey, colorado and the delicious coney island hot-dot stand there. On the way back down, the brakes started shrieking, and pulling heavily to the right. With judicious use of engine braking I was able to get all the way home without any problem, but this poo poo will not stand. So it's off with the wheels! 38" military tires? They weigh a loving lot. They're also attached by 8 lugs, all of which were torqued on there way too tight and, because I'm an idiot, I never pulled the wheels off to check anything after I got it here, because nothing with the wheels or brakes were really giving me a problem, so with everything else I had to repair, it simply slipped my mind to do so. After work wednesday, I managed to, with the help of a 2 foot long torque wrench, get three of the wheels off, at 8 lugs a wheel, which not even me standing on the wrench could break free (had to pull upwards on the wrench with everything I had, eventually they started moving). Got the front two drums off, and everything looked fine - which is disconcerting with how much it was pulling to the right, I was certain it would have been the right front brake. Mid-Right drum? We could not get it to budge. Period. Raps with a mallot, nothing worked. Exhausted and disappointed, we retired for the evening. Fortunately, Volvo thought ahead about "What to do if the drum is REALLY loving on there", and put a couple of threaded holes in the side of the drum! Just shove a couple of 3/8", 24 Fine pitch bolts in there,  Like So, and after a bit of wrenching, the drum ever so slowly starts to slide off! ... And to my disapointment, the pad looks fine and thick on this one too. gently caress. On to wheel number fou- wait. Now, Correct me if I'm wrong,  But isn't the pad supposed to be ATTACHED to the shoe? (Not imaged: the dixie-cup worth of brake dust and other poo poo that came out of this drum, and the slight gouge something wore into the drum) Well then. Looking at the markings, these look like original volvo pads - Considering there's only 45,000 KM on this truck, these may well *BE* the original, factory installed shoes. And they're delaminating! Oh what fun! Sadly, after last night's endeavors, and a ridiculously long day at work today, I'm a bit too bushed to start the joy of disassembling the shoes and replacing them - especially when, by all accounts, it's kinda a bitch to do. So for now I popped the drum and wheel back on, pulled the jack out from under it, and I'll tackle it tomorrow or this weekend. (I just so happen to have a box of all shoes required sitting next to me, so once I get some rest and have some time to do this right, the brake job commences!)
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| # ? Sep 30, 2011 00:43 |
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Is it hard to get replacement drums? Seems like that would be one of the easier things to get if you had to replace them.
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| # ? Sep 30, 2011 01:36 |
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Drums and Shoes come off of a Land Rover Series III 109" V6. The drums themselves apparently need to be machined a bit to fit with the hubs, but I've got a machine shop so it's no big deal. I plan on getting a spare set and machine them, and keep the old ones on-hand as spares, but I'm a bit strapped for cash at the moment. I also picked up brake shoes for it, and as stated above the old shoes are going to a shop nearby that will re-pad them. I also have some spare pistons for it, new in wrapper. I'm waiting until I do the full tear down of the axles, etc next year to do the pistons, getting at the brakes with the portal hubs there is a bit of a pain.
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| # ? Sep 30, 2011 17:24 |
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 Straight six, drat you!
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| # ? Sep 30, 2011 19:45 |
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InitialDave posted:
Woop! Sorry, I don't know much about rovers. v  v
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| # ? Sep 30, 2011 19:47 |
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Doccers posted:Woop! Sorry, I don't know much about rovers. v
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| # ? Sep 30, 2011 19:51 |
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InitialDave posted:In that case, don't forget that the 4-pots didn't get the bigger brakes the six did, so be careful when you're ordering, in case the supplier doesn't realise there's a variety of 109" specs. I did know there were different brakes between the 4cyl and 6 cyl, i just thought it was a V config instead of a straight.
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| # ? Sep 30, 2011 23:02 |
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Son of a bitch. There's two sets of brake adjusters per wheel, not mentioned in the manual. We were only operating on half of the shoes. Corrected, shoes replaced, easiest drum brake job I've ever heard of and I love Volvo for that. test drive successful, Truck is back to giving no gently caress.
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| # ? Oct 1, 2011 01:07 |
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Augh! You were standing on a torque wrench?? You never use those for taking things off! 
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| # ? Oct 1, 2011 02:40 |
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Raluek posted:Augh! You were standing on a torque wrench?? You never use those for taking things off! Yeah, if it's a beam wrench it's no good anymore.
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| # ? Oct 1, 2011 03:06 |
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Raluek posted:Augh! You were standing on a torque wrench?? You never use those for taking things off! No poo poo. That just made me cringe.  Loving the Volvo, though. Keep up the awesome work man.
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| # ? Oct 1, 2011 03:07 |
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iwentdoodie posted:No poo poo. That just made me cringe. Old torque wrench. We have newer ones. It's long since worn out for "accurate torque" use. We pretty much use it as a socket wrench with a built in breaker bar. Doccers fucked around with this message at Oct 1, 2011 around 03:24 |
| # ? Oct 1, 2011 03:21 |
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Raluek posted:Augh! You were standing on a torque wrench?? You never use those for taking things off! Depends on the torque wrench. Find yourself with a stahlwille, flip the ratchet and throw a pipe on the end and jump away. Hell, gedore will tell you that the clicker is accurate whether you have no extension or 10 meters of extension on it. Cheap torque sticks, yes you've ruined calibration. Get into the thousand $ plus ones and odds are as long as you aren't trying to go in the direction (according to the handle on the wrench) of torque spec clicking the only hindrance is whether the head can hold the torque or not.
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| # ? Oct 1, 2011 06:18 |
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Minor updates, no photos as nothing much has changed appearance wise: Brakes completely redone, all shoes replaced. Some had completely delaminated and pretty much fell out when I removed the drum. Fun for all. Windshield wiper squirter repaired - Baron got confused at some point and dumped antifreeze coolant into the reservoir for the fluid, which then gelled after sitting for lord knows how many years, and murdered the pump. Temporary solution was to grab the other pump for the non-existant Headlight wiper system, which is thankfully the same type of pump. Drivers side squirter now works, passanger side squirter is completely clogged up and apparently melted, and we'll need to remove the entire dash to get at it. That will wait for the major rebuild next summer. The oil leaks appear to have stopped, Lucas oil seal apparently works. Neat! Heater system more or less works, I still need to go through and patch up some of the seams where plastic fittings have shrunk over the years. When brakes were done, was able to locate and reset all brake warning systems, so now the brake light goes out when I take the parking brake off. It will light up if it detects an imbalance between the two brake channels, or if I push the brake pedal too far in (which should only happen if something's very wrong with the system, such as the brakes needing adjustment) Was able to determine issue with interior lights -the lights work just fine, it's just the switches that have failed. They use a contact piece with a spring behind it to bridge a circuit, the contact pieces are there but the springs are not, (apparently crumbled and fell out over the years), so the switches cannot close the circuits to turn on the lights. The whole mechanism is riveted, so I cannot easily get into it to repair it. Will likely just replace with 24v LED fixtures. Runs very well now, no smoke at all. Clutch is very grabby now, and showing off my need to refine my clutchwork while driving. (Hey I've driven automatics for the past 15 years ok?) Re-worked all of the door latch mechanisms, many needed a lot of cleaning. Rear door now closes correctly without need to manually reset the latch, though the lock is still jammed in place. Previous owner states that it is keyed the same but "Needs effort to lock", If that was the case, it's frozen solid now. Very strange lock design, will likely just order a replacement and have the rear door on a seperate key. All other doors work much easier now, and was able to determine why the "Interior Lock" mechanism was not working on two doors. The locks on this are... odd. it's not a standard automotive lock, it's essentially a cylender with a couple bars that rotate out when locked, so you cannot push it inwards to engage the latch. Due to this, when unlocked, you cannot re-lock the cylender from inside, there's no way to reach it. So, to "seal" the doors from the inside, you can rotate the latch downwards, which will engage a latch lock in the mechanism. Even if the door is "unlocked" from the outside, you cannot open it from outside if the latches are in this position. There's a screw location and screw that can block the latch being put into this position, and two of the doors still had the screws there. We've removed them, so now we can keep the doors "Locked" while driving if we desire. The work goes ever on, I'm still unable to track down what's going on with the left front turn indicator, or why when I turn on the right turn indicator, it blinks the left indicator light in the cab, but left does nothing. The front 24v external plug circuit also does not work, need to track that down as well. Both rather low priority at the moment. The next job I'm going to start is replacing the interior panelling - it's worn out, warped, and falling apart. Also, I now have a full tool kit for the truck inside of it now. Used some rather oddly sized bolts in places, 27mm for the differential fluid level ports, and the lugs are 24mm. Have two half-inch sockets for those, and a good 20 inch breaker bar for it now. (No more standing on the beat up old torque wrench) Doccers fucked around with this message at Oct 27, 2011 around 17:46 |
| # ? Oct 27, 2011 17:43 |
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Dismount posted:
Just rereading some comments - if you can grab those, I would be eternally grateful. It turns out a couple of rotating hooks that I have on the inside, are meant specifically as litter carriers. There are also supposed to be some straps for the middle that hang down for the other side of the litters, but those are missing (but I can easily fabricate them). and yes, having one or two litters on hand would be a good thing to have, especially if I want to start doing volunteer S&R work with it or something.
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| # ? Oct 27, 2011 21:30 |
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Update with Questions! I went out to do a full flush and fill on the coolant, as the mix was a touch wrong for the extreme cold we can get in Colorado, and immediately ran into some problems. The manual no longer matched the actual coolant setup. The radiator appears to be aftermarket closed system, with a "cap" that actually does not remove. (marking are in pure english, not swedish). This meant I could not fill the system correctly after draining it, thankfully I decided to check everything over before starting to drain the coolant. The cooling system uses a pressure bottle, and is set up in a way that I cannot fill it from the pressure bottle and reliably get all of the air out of the system. (an issue that came up in older closed-radiator Jeeps. The solution there is to caress the air out of the upper radiator hoses etc. In the Volvo, this isn't really feasable, due to the routing of the hoses etc.) We did however find some fittings that were not in the original manual at all, and after testing, determined they were for coolant. It appears to be a system to rapidly flush and fill the coolant, one hose goes up towards the oil cooler (which uses coolant to cool the oil as opposed to a more common air cooling radiator to cool the oil), the other to a point lower in the system. it looks like this is how to do a full flush and fill of the entire coolant system rapidly, using a pressurized hose fitting. Sadly, I'm not familiar with this type of setup, and have no idea where to even START looking. If anyone has any idea what type of fittings these are, and where I can look to find the correct equipment for them, I would be extraordinarily grateful, my only other option is to convert the entire system back to something I could manually fill.    Again, if anyone can ID these types of fittings, let me know. Thanks! [edit] Someone on the TGB owners group notified me that these are not for filling/flushing the coolant, these are hookups for an external engine heater for starting it in cold weather.  Which leaves me back where I started from. Doccers fucked around with this message at Dec 11, 2011 around 22:11 |
| # ? Dec 11, 2011 21:58 |
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It looks like they're threaded anyway, so if you determine what the thread is, you can just replace them with something you can get a connection for.
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| # ? Dec 11, 2011 22:28 |
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For everyone who asked me "Where the hell do you find something like that", oddly enough another has come up for sale over in california, this time an ambulance box varient (better for a camper conversion but a touch too tall for my tastes): http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Volv...cfcb47005#v4-44
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| # ? Dec 15, 2011 14:20 |
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45 days, no update. You have made AI sad. For shame.
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| # ? Jan 30, 2012 21:12 |
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Sponge! posted:45 days, no update. You have made AI sad. For shame. Man, it's winter. In fuckin Colorado. I don't blame him for not working on it right now.
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| # ? Jan 30, 2012 21:36 |
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Sponge! posted:45 days, no update. You have made AI sad. For shame. gently caress I'm ONE drat day late with an update.  Well, your wish is my loving COMMAND, Sponge! Not much work has happened until recently as A: it's been PRETTY loving COLD, and the truck runs and I'm not going to gently caress with too much until A: Springtime rolls around, B: I recover my bank account from buying the thing, and C: I finish up with some other projects I'm dreadfully behind on. Thankfully B just happened, so I can afford to buy some things! What things? Well.. THINGS IN THIS UPDATE!!! Part "I don't loving remember", Locks and Lights! Hi AI, Sorry it's been awhile, things have been "oh god my fingers" cold and I've been hiding inside with a warm laptop. but problems remain unsolved. And there's nothing I dislike more than unsolved problems. problems like, "The rear door won't loving lock". Yeah.  This fucker right here. I've been putting it off until now because it at least closes and latches correctly, but lately someone decided to get into it and steal the cheap bottle jack, breaker bar and 24mm socket for changing the tire. They didn't touch anything else. I don't know what the gently caress. Now that I have some cash to throw around again, I can start DEALING with this. Lets get our gameface on. So this little fucker here won't lock. Key fits, but it won't turn the lock closed. Ok, lets get this guy open and see what makes it tick.  Careful with that axe, eugene... So this is the inner door housing and the latch to open it from the inside. Pull lever to right, door opens. yay. Lets pop off that housing there...  Huh, well thats... different. To open it, you push the lock cylinder inwards, which hits that lever there and unlatches the door. Ok, lets get that cylinder out of there...  Bueno. (PIC MISSING: ME STUFFING A GOD DAMNED BLOCK OF WOOD IN THERE SO NOBODY COULD OPEN IT WHILE THE LOCK WAS OUT)  Hello, you little nightmare, you  So here's how this bad boy is supposed to work: Turn the key, and that little square peg pops out, holding the cylinder in place and preventing it from going through the housing  to push against the lever. Problem: Key will not turn inside of lock. Baron informs me that "It works, sorta, but you have to jiggle it just right". It wasn't even close to working. Apparently what had happened, was the thing was so dirty over years of use, that it was opening with the INCORRECT KEY. The code for this lock didn't match the rest of the truck. When I cleaned it up, I freed up the tumblers and it no longer accepted the (wrong) key I have. Fortunately, Opel Lady had a similar issue with her Opel she's working on, and found an awesome local cranky locksmith who is a god damned WIZARD and loves a challenge. He managed to create a key for her Opel from scratch off of old codes he had on microfiche, so we figured we'd let him have a crack at this little bastard. It's supposedly made by Taylor locks, but Taylor themselves have no record of it, and the C303 forums and mailing lists I'm on are full of tales of locksmiths refusing to work on it because of a ridiculously tiny set screw that's peened in place from the factory. So what did this guy do? Drilled out the peen, ground down a screwdriver to fit that miniscule screw, backed it out and REKEYED THE DAMNED LOCK without ANY of the right parts - he apparently just MADE them. Jimmy Lock and Key, you guys are awesome. And if anyone needs locksmith work in the Denver area, this man is a loving mad genius.  Yes...  YESSSS! well, that's one serious pain out of my rear end. Whats next... Interior cab lights!  So the original lights for this bad boy used a 24v bulb that's pretty hard to find, and neither of my cab lights worked. Ok, simple. track down the bulbs, and we should be good to go, right?  Wrong. Turns out, it's the switches that are toast. There's a small detent that's supposed to sit on that spring and bridge the connection. It disintegrated long ago and came out as bits and pieces. I can make a new detent, but there's no way to disassemble the light to slide it back into the spring - I tried bending the detent stop, but it was already starting to crack (aged metal), and it just wasn't happening. The light is riveted together (you can see the hammer marks on the brass rivet there), and getting it apart without destroying it wasn't going to happen, period. Goodbye, 1970's plastic light!  Hellooooo 2012! 24V superbright LED strip in aluminum housing! Slick, yes. but does it WORK?  HOLY JESUS CHRIST MY EYES Ok yeah we're going to need to work up a diffusion system for that... gaah. Lights up the cab all pretty like though. Now, one more little thing... we're missing a window lock. The side windows in the front cab slide open, and originally there's a little latch lock riveted to the door frame.  Yeah. Originally. Ok, we're going to need to seriously clean this up, then machine out something to fit the original rivet points, rivet it in place, and make sure it holds and fits all tolerances...  ... uh.  gently caress it. Surprisingly enough, this works FAR BETTER than the original latch does on the other window... Tune in next time, when we look into: - A rear-view camera! - GPS navigation! - Radio equipment installation! - Bumper and Roll cage fabrication! - Blood! - Insulation and sound dampening! There's lots more to come, Kids! Doccers fucked around with this message at Feb 1, 2012 around 01:10 |
| # ? Feb 1, 2012 01:05 |
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Doccers posted:
Absolutely loving brilliant! 
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| # ? Feb 1, 2012 01:23 |
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| # ? May 22, 2013 12:35 |
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I love this project. 
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| # ? Feb 1, 2012 01:29 |
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