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ItalicSquirrels
Feb 15, 2007

What?
I've always been curious how non-alcoholic beers are "brewed". Obviously there has to be some malt and some hops, but do they boil them, carbonate, and bottle immediately? Do they let them cool down and then sulfite them before carbonation? It seems pretty obvious they can't have any yeast in them or they'd explode on the shelf after creating some alcohol.

Also, I'm totally going to make a non-alcoholic beer and market it to the Arabic world. And there's only one thing such a beer could be called: Ab'Douls. It could be served with salaami.

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ItalicSquirrels
Feb 15, 2007

What?
I've got a batch of malted cider (5 gallons apple juice with 3 lbs. pilsner DME) but it seems to be taking a while to clear. It's at 2 months in secondary and there's been some settling, but it hasn't noticeably cleared. Should I wait 3-4 months before bottling or would it be better to just bottle now and shove them into boxes for aging?

Also started a batch of mulberry wine, strawberry dessert wine (4 lbs. strawberries, 4 pounds sugar), and I have cranberry wine AND mead going. Those all have months and months to go before they're good, though. Only about four months until the rhubarb wine should be good on the other hand!

ItalicSquirrels
Feb 15, 2007

What?

Paladine_PSoT posted:

At 19 days, the mead has gone from 1.114 to 1.092. I added all the nutrient in the first three days, though. Should I consider adding more at this point because it's chewing through it so slow? Should I maybe consider pitching more yeast? Airlock activity is good, but slow. Really constant. I'd like it to be drinkable by Oct 5th if possible.

1) Did you add any kind of acid at all? Citric acid, acid blend, even just starting your yeast in orange juice? One of the things that has always helped me in the 4 five gallon batches I've made is adding a teaspoon of citric acid to the honey and water as well as starting in 12 ounces of OJ with the nutrients and energizer. Like Cpt.Wacky said, repitch, add more nutrients, and make sure you aerate well.

2) Mead brews slow. I've always left my primaries for a month and haven't had a bad batch yet.

3) I have bad news for you. Mead ages like wine. You'll want to leave it in bottle for at least a year before it starts to get good. Now, if by "drinkable" you mean "not actively fermenting", October 5th is a perfectly acceptable date. I still wouldn't bottle it, though, unless you like glass shards and sticky patches on the floor.

ItalicSquirrels
Feb 15, 2007

What?

Cpt.Wacky posted:

Mead isn't some mystical process. The fermentation mechanics are the same as beer. Sugar, water, yeast = alcohol and CO2. The starting gravities are higher and the yeast strains are different but everything else is pretty much the same. "Mead takes a long time" whether it's referring to fermentation or aging is just like "Rack to secondary" in the beer world. For a long time no one understood the importance of yeast nutrients to avoid stalled or prolonged fermentations. Those conditions (and probably no temperature control) stressed the yeast causing off flavors that needed a long period of aging to get rid of them. When I went to visit Sky River Meadery here in Washington the owner said they only need about 3 months to go from pitching yeast to bottles.

That's fine, but every person I've talked to face-to-face who has brewed mead has run into the same thing I have. We all add nutrients, we all brew in the right temperature, all of that. And every time it's taken a year or so for the mead to not have a "green" taste. Did your guy at Sky River say how long it was until they put the bottles out for sale?

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