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Tonight's Goals: 1) Remove the black body trim 2) Take apart the rear bumper a Pile of trim  It was a little scary taking it all off, but not as bad as I thought it would be.  I'm thinking that I should replace these window brush things before they scratch up the glass.  The door panel   One Rusty bumper beam   After washing with Dawn. All the body shop guys tell me to use Dawn because of the Grease removing stuff in it. And, more shop supplies. Epoxy and plastic repair stuff, and some glazing putty for the bondo on the car. I prefer sand my bondo to 180 ish and use the glazing putty on the sanding scratches. Then I sand it again, Epoxy primer the whole thing, and send it again. 
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Apr 20, 2012 01:26
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Your windows aren't scratched to gently caress already?  Mine are already terminal. I forget exactly what people use to replace the pads. I've seen felt and fake fur used.
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Apr 20, 2012 02:07
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Maybe the "loop" side of some Velcro?
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Apr 20, 2012 12:44
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It never occurred to me before now that that is why my windows are all scratched up. I bet part of a whiteboard eraser would work great.
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Apr 20, 2012 14:33
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RS25's DIY windowpad replacement using fake fur: http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t46901-diy-repair-window-pads.html
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Apr 20, 2012 15:36
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I'll add the fake fur to my list. So much to do!. Every now and then, I get to the point in my projects where I say "OHGOD this is never going to be finished." The answer, of course, is to order a bunch of new parts. New lightweight off road only dealer rear bumper beam. The Cost? Cheap. $25 bucks a week interest free. I assume it isn't much, since my wife goes into the invoices and makes sure we don't get charged above dealer cost and no shipping charges.  What's in the boxes? Pretty taillights with none of that horrid orange.  And now, the problem that I've been putting off for way too long. What to do about the gap between the rear bumper cover and the quarter panel. Have a look   It's really not THAT bad, but I think I want to redo this section to close the gap a bit. I'm going to cut off where that line is and weld some more metal in. This will most likely wreck the body fill in the immediate area. Oh well, that's the way it goes.
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Apr 24, 2012 00:31
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daslog - what you up to Memorial Day? I'll be up at Lime Rock Park for an event and I can probably haul up all my leftover poo poo from gutting the car if you wanna drive down to the track. You're welcome to all of it. Quick list Black moonroof (worked) Rear interior cards Interior trim crap (some are messed up) Trunk lining crap Roof foam thing (foam is fine, the gray is a bit dirtied in spots) Buncha random little poo poo (glovebox, rear view mirror, blah blah) Tire donut Whatever else I find I'll probably make it up to West Dover, VT at some point over the summer if that is a bad date. Oh, can you/your wife get the following part? 57220FA130 (Aluminum Hood)?
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Apr 24, 2012 01:22
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c355n4 posted:daslog - what you up to Memorial Day? I'll be up at Lime Rock Park for an event and I can probably haul up all my leftover poo poo from gutting the car if you wanna drive down to the track. You're welcome to all of it. Quick list I'll let you know on the hood. At this point, I'm actually ok on parts as I don't think I'll ever do this amount of Rust repair again, so the 98 is going to end up being a Rally car.
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Apr 24, 2012 01:36
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daslog posted:I'll let you know on the hood. At this point, I'm actually ok on parts as I don't think I'll ever do this amount of Rust repair again, so the 98 is going to end up being a Rally car. Haha, I was gonna ask if you wanted to fix my rear quarter rust :p Looks good so far.
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Apr 24, 2012 01:40
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c355n4 posted:Haha, I was gonna ask if you wanted to fix my rear quarter rust :p My son wants me to flare his rear quarters too. Take a number! Here is a question for you Subaru experts: Since I have access to all these dealer parts, should I be ordering some WRX stuff for my RS?
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Apr 24, 2012 01:42
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daslog posted:My son wants me to flare his rear quarters too. Take a number! You can widen the track with some of the control arms and so forth. I never really explored it since it throws my classing way off. Might be worth asking in the bigger subaru thread.
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Apr 24, 2012 19:33
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GD sedan control arms are quite a bit wider than the GC/GD wagon ones are. If you go up to '06 GD WRX or 04-06 STI you can get aluminum control arms to boot. From what I understand you do not have to change out the front axles, though it might be a good idea to. Might be worthwhile figuring out if you can scam a 4.44 rear diff from a Forester XT and pair it with an appropriate ring & pinion set for the 5-speed. There's also some 4.11 rear LSDs that are probably clogging up Subaru warehouses.
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Apr 24, 2012 19:55
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I'd honestly just finish the car. wrx upgrades? maybe a wrx rear bar which is 17mm and fine if you don't plan to touch the rest of the suspension. Like SS said, GD control arms and rear links for a wider track width, have fun breaking the big rear end rear bolts. Get a 4.44 LSD rear diff and give it to me, I'm looking for one. 2000 and 2001 RS rear diffs are 4.11 LSD.
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Apr 24, 2012 19:58
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to widen the rear track it is a good idea to change the axles. the only thing holding them into the diff is a snap ring and it's pretty common for them to pop out with adjustable lateral links and such. Plus from a handling standpoint a wider front track is a good thing.
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Apr 24, 2012 20:10
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c355n4 posted:
Here is the answer I got: $375 and everyone who asks gets the Carbon Fiber hood instead. PS: I have no way to ship it to you.
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Apr 24, 2012 22:53
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daslog posted:Here is the answer I got: $375 and everyone who asks gets the Carbon Fiber hood instead. You guys actually have it in stock?! Surprisingly, the aluminum hood is often lighter than the lovely carbon fiber hoods.
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Apr 25, 2012 02:13
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c355n4 posted:You guys actually have it in stock?! Surprisingly, the aluminum hood is often lighter than the lovely carbon fiber hoods. In stock? No. It would have to be ordered.
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Apr 25, 2012 02:38
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OK, so now that I've decided to paint the entire car, my focus has been to get the bodywork done to the point where I can wash the car. It's critical that it be washed with Dawn (or some other degreaser soap) before sanding the paint down for a respray. First, fix my mistake on the quarter panel.  Mask of the paint that I don't want overspray on. I don't need to worry about spraying in a dirty garage since the primer will be sanded anyway.   One coat of Primer!  Two coats. You can still see the outlines of the Bondo. Another coat will cover that after the sanding.   Next up, washing and filling in a million pinholes like these. 
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May 11, 2012 02:06
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daslog posted:If you want, now is a good time to change out the stock fender braces with something nicer. Easier to do with the front quarters off. I forget what your plan for the car was.
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May 11, 2012 02:41
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c355n4 posted:If you want, now is a good time to change out the stock fender braces with something nicer. Easier to do with the front quarters off. I forget what your plan for the car was. I'm interested! What are my options?
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May 11, 2012 03:21
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daslog posted:I'm interested! What are my options? http://turninconcepts.com/product_info.php?products_id=56 I have a pair of those. Maybe ask jamal if he has any other options. Or you could try making a pair yourself. They're aren't anything fancy.
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May 11, 2012 03:34
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Is there really that much flex in the RS?
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May 12, 2012 00:13
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daslog posted:Is there really that much flex in the RS? They were called the "watermelon chassis" in Japan from their amount of flex.
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May 12, 2012 00:16
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daslog posted:Is there really that much flex in the RS? loving idiots don't believe me when I say the GD chassis is a better chassis.
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May 12, 2012 00:23
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Slow is Fast posted:loving idiots don't believe me when I say the GD chassis is a better chassis.
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May 12, 2012 00:32
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c355n4 posted:http://turninconcepts.com/product_info.php?products_id=56 Turn in Concepts is the best. Also I carry their parts.
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May 12, 2012 02:30
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Octopus Magic posted:They were called the "watermelon chassis" in Japan from their amount of flex. 
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May 13, 2012 19:32
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With the RS in primer, it was safe to wash it. This is a pretty big milestone for this project. I should have it in paint by July. First the hood. Blocked the entire thing with the long Durablock. You can see the high spots in the picture, as they are sanded through to the metal.  The way I fix these is to gently tap them down with a body hammer and then use fill to smooth them out.  And sanded down.  Sunday was much less fun. Another fight with my son who was pissed that I was using my own driveway to work on my car. Oh well. This is my daily driver. It's inspection month, and 12 years of New England has led too..   The rocker  I made this piece using a block of wood as a template. If I gave two shits about this car, I would have worked harder on the arch  Welded I didn't get a pick of the long strand bondo, but I'll take some pictures of it in primer after I bondo it. daslog fucked around with this message at 04:54 on May 14, 2012 |
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May 14, 2012 04:47
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I almost bought an RS with about the same level of rust as the forester. The big issue I didn't like was that rocker rust. See how it has rusted away one of the mounting points for the subframe plate bolts? Those two bolts hold the front subframe to the chassis and I DIDNT want to touch that on a car. I highly suggest welding a plate in there and retapping the bolt holes for that subframe plate as you really don't want the other 12mm bolt to rust/sheer off and your subframe start flopping. Also, your son needs to stfu. I do all my work at my folks house and my dad's projects come first. I am LUCKY to be able to use his garage and tools to work on my stupid cars. Have him read this paragraph.
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May 14, 2012 12:22
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Slow is Fast posted:I almost bought an RS with about the same level of rust as the forester. I did notice that Subframe mounting point. I need to research how difficulty it would be to remove that piece of the subframe to get in there to do the work.
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May 14, 2012 12:27
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daslog posted:I did notice that Subframe mounting point. I need to research how difficulty it would be to remove that piece of the subframe to get in there to do the work. Just take the plate off. It's three bolts. Big bolt into the subframe, and two little side bolts that hold the plate on. You shouldn't have to mess with the actual subframe itself.
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May 14, 2012 12:39
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daslog posted:This is my daily driver. It's inspection month, and 12 years of New England has led too.. I feel like this is just a normal part of life living in New England. "Hmm, yes, my car seems to have rusted in half. I'll be in the workshop for a few hours if you need me."
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May 14, 2012 17:43
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InitialDave posted:But the Japanese love watermelon? I love udon noodles but I wouldn't use them as something I described as stiff still.
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May 14, 2012 17:46
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Octopus Magic posted:I love udon noodles but I wouldn't use them as something I described as stiff still.
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May 14, 2012 18:00
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Spent all 3 days this weekend working on the car. I didn't take a lot of pics thought. Day 1 was Sunroof day. Lot's of cleaning, lubrication, and finally a swap between the 98 and the 99. (that's a random EJ25 we have laying around in the background, not related to this project)   I also swapped the headliners and the little thing that goes on the sunroof. The old one had cigarette burns. Lots of cleaning was involved.  I found this little treasure of monster cable in the 98. Someone put in O2 or (OZ?) brand speakers and passive crossovers and a VR3 amp. The red wire is a 4 gauge, so that's getting used in the 99 as well. Anyone know if this stuff is poo poo?   POR-15 is a rip off. You are always better off using a 2 part Epoxy primer and just brushing it on when needed. It will only cost you $100 for two sprayable gallons, and it's an actual Epoxy. Here I brushed it on in the trunk area.   Next, I did the fur trick for the window brushes that was suggested earlier is this thread. Thanks Cessna! (no pictures) This leads me to my current problem. Two missing bolts on the passenger side window regulator and 2 stripped bolts on the driver's side. This might explain the scratches in the windows not related to the brushes I replaced. I'm thinking that I'll have to use the tap and die on the stripped threads for the drivers side, and replace the bolts with bigger ones. On the passenger side, I'll just replace 2. I think this is a common problem with Subarus of this era. top two bolts spin freely  Missing two on this side 
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May 29, 2012 23:15
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Is that random ej25 for sale? SOHC? I need all of them.
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May 29, 2012 23:32
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Slow is Fast posted:Is that random ej25 for sale? SOHC? I need all of them. It's DOHC, and it may have overheated, but it's not seized.
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May 29, 2012 23:40
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So I just had the brilliant idea of going to the 98 (which is fast becoming a parts car) and stealing some bolts from there. Drivers door only has 2 out of 4 bolts, same as the passenger side.
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May 30, 2012 00:05
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The wire is good wire, can't screw that up too bad.  The VR3 amp is Wal-Mart brand, I own that exact same one. I bought it for $40 brand new off the shelf about 5 years ago. It is a pile of junk, doesn't put out anywhere near the power that it says it does (more like maybe 25-30W/channel). On the bright side, I use mine for testing random speakers and it still works to this day, but please don't use it for anything a real person will be listening to.
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May 30, 2012 00:55
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| # ? Apr 26, 2024 02:16 |
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daslog posted:So I just had the brilliant idea of going to the 98 (which is fast becoming a parts car) and stealing some bolts from there. Drivers door only has 2 out of 4 bolts, same as the passenger side. Haha, I'll have to check my door at some point.
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May 30, 2012 02:18
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