|
psydude posted:They tried putting it into bridge mode and it wouldn't assign an IP address to my external interface. I even tried plugging my laptop directly into it for good measure, but to no effect. I'd return the loving thing to the branch office, but I'm sure the replacement they'd give me would be hosed up and ultimately end up costing me a $50 service charge. With the hassle of not having your own equipment and the high monthly rental fees (when I had comcast it was $7 a month) it's usually worthwhile to buy your own modem for $60-80. Folks in the thread have had pretty good luck with the Motorola (now Arris) SB6141 and 6121.
|
#
?
Sep 17, 2014 20:37
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 13, 2024 02:12 |
|
|
Gorau posted:Thanks for the advice. I think it'll work, but one final question. I looked into the data sheets for the nanostations. It says it has a minimum operating of -30c. That's unfortunately not cold enough. -40 or 45 isn't uncommon for us. Do you think it would be be possible to mount them inside and just point them in the general direction without too much lost signal strength? One of the buildings is aluminum sided and the others are wood. You have a teeny tiny short shot so log into the radios and back off their transmit power by half when you're setting them up. That will do two things - improve their performance because you aren't screaming loudly at each radio and it will help fix a cold weather bug some of the Ubiquiti products showed when running transmit power full blast. They should be fine in the low temps though a little plastic casing around them would be a fine idea. Don't put them inside, that will suck and they won't work right.
|
|
#
?
Sep 17, 2014 23:24
|
|
|
I bought 2 wireless cards (the recommended Intel 7260HMWDTX1 Dual Band Wireless-AC 7260 PCIe plus Bluetooth 4.0 AC1200 Wireless adapters) and a refurbished Airport Extreme (5th generation, so N only). My previous connection dropping problem has been resolved, so thanks for the advice. My WiFi card is working perfectly in Linux. My girlfriend's Windows 7 64 bit machine works fine until the computer goes to sleep. When it comes back up, the WiFi is disconnected and will not reconnect. I unchecked the box that allows the computer to turn it off under power management. After doing that and sleeping the computer the WiFi shows up disconnected and cannot find any wireless networks. We have what I believe to be the newest drivers (Windows shows version 17.1.0.19). That said, the Intel download page is kind of confusing. They have several different versions listed as "Latest." I just picked the one with the highest number (17.1.0). I believe I have narrowed the problem down to the Preferred Band setting in the Advanced section of the device's profile in Device Manager. When I have "Prefer 5ghz" selected, the problem occurs. When I have "No Preference" selected, I don't believe it does (it doesn't happen when I manually sleep the computer, but I haven't let it go to sleep on its own yet since I changed the setting back. She's using it now, I'll report back when it goes to sleep). Obviously, that's a workaround, but I'd love to avoid it. Our 2.4ghz band is pretty congested. She gets about 18mbps down on 2.4, and maxes out our 60mbps connection on 5. The router is less than 15 feet away from her computer, with direct line of sight, so I doubt it is interference. Any ideas would be great. Thanks!
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2014 00:26
|
|
|
Just moved into an upstairs apartment. Router is downstairs with the landlord. I'd like to get a wired connection upstairs if I can help it, and the landlord is willing to let me set that up. I'm fine with hiring a pro to do it -- is there some type of business that specializes in wiring ethernet cable? Or maybe some chain store that I wouldn't have thought of that offers an ethernet wiring service? Alternatively, are those Ethernet Power Line Adapters any good? Somewhere between wifi and ethernet in terms of speed/consistency, or complete garbage?
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2014 18:05
|
|
|
Minidust posted:Just moved into an upstairs apartment. Router is downstairs with the landlord. I'd like to get a wired connection upstairs if I can help it, and the landlord is willing to let me set that up. I'm fine with hiring a pro to do it -- is there some type of business that specializes in wiring ethernet cable? Or maybe some chain store that I wouldn't have thought of that offers an ethernet wiring service? I was going to PM you but you don't have plat. The most recent Powerline gear is rated for 600 mbps, you should get about 70-80 (500 mbps spec) or 200-250 mbps (600 mbps spec) in real world scenarios. It generally Just Works, so the process would be buying a set of adapters, putting them in the plugs you want, and seeing if you get a signal. A few posters in this thread have tried them with good results. There's currently two specs available, the slightly older spec (500 mbps) and the newer spec (600 mbps). See if the price difference is worth it to you for extra range / speed, SmallNetBuilder compared the performance of the two if you want more details: http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/lanwan/lanwan-reviews/32454-tp-link-homeplug-head-to-head This is SmallNetBuilder's section on powerline and should give you a good overview http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/labels/powerline
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2014 18:31
|
|
|
Minidust posted:Just moved into an upstairs apartment. Router is downstairs with the landlord. I'd like to get a wired connection upstairs if I can help it, and the landlord is willing to let me set that up. I'm fine with hiring a pro to do it -- is there some type of business that specializes in wiring ethernet cable? Or maybe some chain store that I wouldn't have thought of that offers an ethernet wiring service? Electricians mostly. Or call a local small computer shop and ask them who runs their CAT5, they'll probably tell you. Is your power separate from the landlords? If so, powerline probably won't work all that well.
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2014 18:58
|
|
|
UndyingShadow posted:Electricians mostly. Or call a local small computer shop and ask them who runs their CAT5, they'll probably tell you. A computer shop probably doesn't have good cable runs. Also, powerline adapters cause huge radio interference.
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2014 19:10
|
|
|
SEKCobra posted:Also, powerline adapters cause huge radio interference. Interference to shortwave radio? Do you feel this is a major concern for most folks?
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2014 19:28
|
|
|
Rakthar posted:Interference to shortwave radio? Do you feel this is a major concern for most folks? It means the authorities might come by and take your network equipment away and you are back to square one.
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2014 19:30
|
|
|
SEKCobra posted:It means the authorities might come by and take your network equipment away and you are back to square one. That doesn't seem like a remotely realistic scenario. "Avoid powerline, the government may take away your $60 adapter because of the RF interference" as a stance feels silly to me. I know this has sparked discussion in the UK but even there they are talking about the aggregate effects of tons of people using them.
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2014 19:34
|
|
|
SEKCobra posted:It means the authorities might come by and take your network equipment away and you are back to square one. That's bullshit. They wouldn't be allowed to SELL powerline adapters if they were causing so much radio interference that the FCC felt the need to come and take away your networking equipment.
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2014 22:57
|
|
|
UndyingShadow posted:That's bullshit. They wouldn't be allowed to SELL powerline adapters if they were causing so much radio interference that the FCC felt the need to come and take away your networking equipment. Just because a manufacturer claims compliance doesnt mean its true. Since theres actual radio services, like the amateur radio service, on the affected bands, the chance of an interference report is quite high.
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2014 04:54
|
|
|
I recently moved overseas and want to get a router that supports VPN so I can bypass the content filter this country has and use stuff like Netflix, Banking, etc... Any recommendations?
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2014 15:56
|
|
|
I'm wondering if I can get some insight on this weird issue I started having. Fairly new to home networking, FWIW. I'm using a Netgear N600 wireless adapter on my main PC, and a Linksys N (I forget the model) as my router using DD-WRT. When I configured everything, I set up two SSIDs—one for all the Macs and stuff in the household, and the other dedicated to my desktop PC. With WPA2 encryption on both SSIDs, both SSIDs work fine for every device in the household except for the PC, which can't connect to either despite full signal strength. There's no error of any kind, it just instantly connects to our neighbor's network. I assumed this was because of the encryption, so I switched the SSID the PC uses to use WPA-WPA2 mixed. Worked like a charm! My PC connects! ...Only now the SSID for all the other devices stops working. On our Macs, we'll get an error pop up that says, "The wireless network appears to have been compromised and will be disabled for about a minute." Then all devices—the Macs, my Apple TV, my Android phone—refuse to connect with either SSID... except my PC, which connects to its SSID just fine. I did a little bit of digging, and it looks like this is something with fairly recent Apple computers that simply hate WPA encryption and want you to use WPA2. But the SSID my devices are trying to use is using WPA2. I'm not sure how to make both SSIDs work fine together with this happening. Hopefully that makes sense. oversteps fucked around with this message at 17:06 on Sep 19, 2014 |
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2014 17:04
|
|
|
Is there a point to shielded TP cables at home? I'd like to run two gigabit connections next to each other, both 5m/16ft long. Should I expect interference to have an effect?
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2014 18:37
|
|
|
SEKCobra posted:Just because a manufacturer claims compliance doesnt mean its true. Since theres actual radio services, like the amateur radio service, on the affected bands, the chance of an interference report is quite high. So you're saying avoid powerline networking because a manufacturer COULD claim compliance but not be compliant, and then the FCC COULD come and confiscate your equipment? What kind of fantasy world do you live in? Point me to one example where the FCC broke down someone's door because they were using unmodified powerline networking equipment and confiscated it.
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2014 19:06
|
|
|
Combat Pretzel posted:Is there a point to shielded TP cables at home? I'd like to run two gigabit connections next to each other, both 5m/16ft long. Should I expect interference to have an effect? No, 16ft isn't nearly enough to matter. Data centers run giant bundles of dozens of cat5 wires bound together longer than that. Wired connections are pretty drat resilient. I've seen longer than standard runs; runs over, near, and across electrical wiring; and all manner of other questionable things and the connections have all worked fine. I'm not saying you won't have problems if you do stupid things, but it's not really that sensitive.
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2014 19:13
|
|
|
UndyingShadow posted:So you're saying avoid powerline networking because a manufacturer COULD claim compliance but not be compliant, and then the FCC COULD come and confiscate your equipment? What kind of fantasy world do you live in? Point me to one example where the FCC broke down someone's door because they were using unmodified powerline networking equipment and confiscated it. I don't think there is a single powerline adapter that doesnt cause interference, and I don't have any examples of the US, but I know of several cases in Germany and here.
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2014 19:23
|
|
|
SEKCobra posted:I don't think there is a single powerline adapter that doesnt cause interference, and I don't have any examples of the US, but I know of several cases in Germany and here. The government can pry my powerline networking equipment from my cold, dead hands. Seriously, there were 20 APs in range of my condo, and after a significant number of people cut the cord, wireless was unusable at ranges of >10' between 6PM and 11PM. To make things worse, assholes had set their APs to use overlapping bands. An electrician quoted $1200 to get a cable from one place to another, because the condo simply wasn't built with adding cable anywhere. A wireless repeater did nothing. I was on the verge of giving up and selling my PC when I looked and two 200mbps powerline adaptors were ~30 shipped.
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2014 19:36
|
|
|
I have a lovely Actiontec MI424WR provided to me courtesy of Verizon. I think it sucks or something, I have a lot of latency issues with my vidya games and this past week on my desktop it's just been dragging me down on web sites and everything. I've been loving around with ports, switched from the default WEP to WPA2, changed channels but it still just sucks nuts at random times. For the record, my PC within 10 feet of the router (but I can't run a cable, it's not an option currently). Would I be better off just spending some money on, say, something like the Netgear WNR3500L linked in the OP? I'm pretty sure the Actiontec is a total piece of dog rear end and I could probably bitch to Verizon, but I really don't want to spend my time talking to them.
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2014 23:16
|
|
|
ukrainius maximus posted:I have a lovely Actiontec MI424WR provided to me courtesy of Verizon. I think it sucks or something, I have a lot of latency issues with my vidya games and this past week on my desktop it's just been dragging me down on web sites and everything. I've been loving around with ports, switched from the default WEP to WPA2, changed channels but it still just sucks nuts at random times. For the record, my PC within 10 feet of the router (but I can't run a cable, it's not an option currently). Stick it up your rear end.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2014 01:16
|
|
|
So I just "upgraded" from my old E1200 router to an E2500, and I also upgraded my modem from a CM100 to an SB6120. When I do speed tests now, my desktop is getting the correct speed from the wired connection, but my laptop is getting less than a 10th the speed I was getting from my old E1200 over the wireless connection...WTF?!
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2014 02:21
|
|
|
ConspicuousEvil posted:So I just "upgraded" from my old E1200 router to an E2500, and I also upgraded my modem from a CM100 to an SB6120. When I do speed tests now, my desktop is getting the correct speed from the wired connection, but my laptop is getting less than a 10th the speed I was getting from my old E1200 over the wireless connection...WTF?! 1. You're connecting to 2.4 GHz wireless and it's hitting interference and affecting the quality of the connection. 2. You're connecting to 5 GHz wireless, and doesn't penetrate through walls, etc. as well as your old 2.4 GHz wifi did. I would check and see which band you're connecting to. If you're connecting to 2.4 GHz, try changing the channel through the router's settings. If you're connecting to 5 GHz, try switching to 2.4 instead and see if that makes a difference.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2014 06:13
|
|
|
I want to make sure I"m reading this right. Recently the internet has started to get worse with packet loss. I ran WinMTR. I know a single node with high loss isn't a problem, but I"m getting 8-10% loss after my modem. That means my modem is dropping packets, right? code:
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2014 15:22
|
|
|
beepsandboops posted:I think one of two things is probably happening: Thanks for the help. The only thing I could find was that I'm connecting to channel 6 (which I think is 2.4?) I tried changing to channel 11, on the router but that doesn't seem to be helping. How do I tell my laptop's wireless adapter which frequency to connect to so I can try the 5ghz band? ConspicuousEvil fucked around with this message at 16:07 on Sep 20, 2014 |
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2014 15:35
|
|
|
Minidust posted:Just moved into an upstairs apartment. Router is downstairs with the landlord. I'd like to get a wired connection upstairs if I can help it, and the landlord is willing to let me set that up. I'm fine with hiring a pro to do it -- is there some type of business that specializes in wiring ethernet cable? Or maybe some chain store that I wouldn't have thought of that offers an ethernet wiring service? Cable installers are good at running it. Put an ad on craigslist.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2014 18:35
|
|
|
Gothmog1065 posted:I want to make sure I"m reading this right. Recently the internet has started to get worse with packet loss. I ran WinMTR. I know a single node with high loss isn't a problem, but I"m getting 8-10% loss after my modem. That means my modem is dropping packets, right? Packet loss appearing after your router means that something is happening in between your router and the gateway (first router). It could be your router's WAN port, it could be the modem, but it could also be your ISP's equipment (either wiring or the network interface on that first router). For cable services sometimes the entire node can have packetloss if there's too much traffic. It can be difficult to tell, but you can definitely take that result and ask your ISP. Do they have a help forum? 9% packetloss is really awful and is probably making your connection really lovely. Firstly, I'd connect to the modem directly and try the same test just to be sure it's not the router (it's probably not but it's worth making sure before you call anyone), then put it back how it was and call your ISP. If it's really consistent they should be able to see it, too. Many cablemodems let you view their signal diagnostics page which may be helpful if you're looking at bad signal quality on your lines: http://www.dslreports.com/faq/7363
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2014 20:26
|
|
|
Not sure if my router or modem is dying. Last friday TWC did a channel number update which forced me to reboot the model and router multiple times to get a connection. That's resolved now and I've got internet but it sucks. Time Warner Cable Internet Router: Asus RT-N66U Modem: SB-6121 Desktop over ethernet: VPN to work is good. Remote desktop is responsive. However, websites don't load on the first try. Takes a few tries or just waiting but when they load they load quick. Seems to always hand on the first try which didn't happen before. iPad/iPhone over 802.11n: Same thing for websites and youtube app. Stuff doesn't load on the first try. Takes a few tries or just waiting but when they load they usually load quick. You tube app fails to play usually on the first try but when it goes it goes well most of the time. Maybe its just a local issue.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2014 21:55
|
|
|
ConspicuousEvil posted:Thanks for the help. The only thing I could find was that I'm connecting to channel 6 (which I think is 2.4?) I tried changing to channel 11, on the router but that doesn't seem to be helping. How do I tell my laptop's wireless adapter which frequency to connect to so I can try the 5ghz band? I think you can tell pretty much any OS to prefer one band over another, but I'm not 100% sure. Looking at my Windows 7 machine, if you go into the adapter settings, it has a "Band Preference" option. Your mileage may vary. Alternatively, you could go into the router's settings and force it to only broadcast on 5 GHz and see if that does anything for you. Good luck!
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2014 22:18
|
|
|
Shaocaholica posted:Not sure if my router or modem is dying. Last friday TWC did a channel number update which forced me to reboot the model and router multiple times to get a connection. That's resolved now and I've got internet but it sucks. Change your DNS to 8.8.8.8 or 8.8.4.4 and report back. Sounds like slow name resolving.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2014 22:38
|
|
|
e.pilot posted:Change your DNS to 8.8.8.8 or 8.8.4.4 and report back. Sounds like slow name resolving. Seems to be working, thanks!
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2014 23:10
|
|
|
Shaocaholica posted:Seems to be working, thanks! 
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2014 23:22
|
|
|
beepsandboops posted:Yeah, channel 6 is on 2.4 GHz. 5 GHz operates on channels like 40-120 IIRC. Ok, so I couldn't figure out how to force my adapter to connect to the 5ghz frequency, even with changing it so the router was transmitting two SSIDs. So I disabled the 2.4ghz frequency on the router and that seems to have worked. I ran a speed test and I got close to 20 Mbps, does that seem reasonable if my wired connections get close to 60? Thanks again, you guys are awesome!
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2014 01:22
|
|
|
ConspicuousEvil posted:Ok, so I couldn't figure out how to force my adapter to connect to the 5ghz frequency, even with changing it so the router was transmitting two SSIDs. So I disabled the 2.4ghz frequency on the router and that seems to have worked. I ran a speed test and I got close to 20 Mbps, does that seem reasonable if my wired connections get close to 60? Thanks again, you guys are awesome! You should poke around at those things and see if you can affect any of them, but I would think that 20 Mbps would be fine for most things.
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2014 02:46
|
|
|
beepsandboops posted:That doesn't seem too unreasonable. There are a few different factors that could bring down the speed--things like channel width (20 MHz vs 40 MHz), router placement, what's between your laptop and the router, what your laptop is actually capable of, and what speeds you're consistently getting on your connection. Depending on what kind of internet connection you have (I'm guessing cable), I would be really surprised if you got 60 Mbps consistently. Sadly, I know part of my issue is that the router is in another room and has a few walls between it and where the laptop is. It's still weird that I'm getting slower speeds with my new router than with my old. Disabling the 2.4ghz band seemed to work, but then none of my mobile devices could connect to the network 
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2014 23:45
|
|
|
(Posted earlier in the Product Recommendation thread) I have to buy a modem/router for my new house but haven't purchased one in ages. Looking at this right now but no clue if it's worth the price: http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-SURF...odem+and+router I see they are all rated for speeds WAY higher than I can get in my area (50 MB/s) so should I buy a cheapo one or is that pretty standard? People are saying modem/router combos are poo poo but I am a 100% F- when it comes to home networking. If someone could help hold my hand: I'll just be running a standard 50 MB/s line from Xfinity (ugh) and want to connect my two computers and hopefully a new TV some time. Hardware will be centrally located in a two-story house. Networking stuff gets really big really fast as people tend to recommend stuff without explaining why it's important to a dumb idiot baby like myself.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2014 01:28
|
|
|
Inzombiac posted:(Posted earlier in the Product Recommendation thread) Combos suck, period. Getting a separate router and modem literally adds one extra cable, which runs from the cable modem to the internet port on the router. And you'd have to go through all that networking setup anyone on that combo, but with the added benefit of Motorola's bad web interface. Buy this: http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-Motorola-SurfBoard-SB6141-DOCSIS/dp/B00AJHDZSI Now, choose: Good http://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Dual-Ban...rds=asus+router Better http://www.amazon.com/RT-N66U-Dual-...rds=asus+router Best http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Night...s=netgear+r7000 The difference between all of these is down to wireless speed. Without knowing what you plan to connect your computers with, I can't help you choose.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2014 06:31
|
|
|
The newer wave two 802.11ac routers and some wave one 802.11ac router like the asus rt-ac66u has a thing called beam forming where it changes the beam pattern till you have the strongest signal. This makes a huge difference in the 5Ghz range even for non 802.11ac device and doesn't have to blast the airwave with high transmit power. So yeah get something with beamforming especially if you want to use 5Ghz. DaNzA fucked around with this message at 06:37 on Sep 23, 2014 |
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2014 06:34
|
|
|
UndyingShadow posted:Combos suck, period. Getting a separate router and modem literally adds one extra cable, which runs from the cable modem to the internet port on the router. And you'd have to go through all that networking setup anyone on that combo, but with the added benefit of Motorola's bad web interface. Thanks a ton! The only wireless I plan on using is for our phones so it's not critical for it to be fast.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2014 06:42
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 13, 2024 02:12 |
|
|
A few months ago I had the good idea to ditch my router/cable modem and instead use of these all in one lovely box that my cable provider started carrying. Obviously it's crap beyond belief and I can hardly configure network related stuff. Now I'd like to use Netflix USA with Chromecast from Switzerland and in order to do that I apparently need a router with DD-WRT on it. Could anyone recommend me a router that would fit this bill? (Are routers recommended by UndyingShadow possible?) On my network I have: - A zotac with wire connection to the router - Laptop GIRLFRIEND on wifi - My Laptop on wifi - both our phones on wifi - My computer in another room with wire connection - NAS in another room with wire connection I was thinking of getting my provider cable modem then connect that to a router then a cable going to the other room with a switch there to connect my desktop computer and NAS. Would that be a correct way of doing it?
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2014 09:20
|
|
