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No. The newer Vdsl and Uverse products have routers that can't be put into bridge mode.
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May 19, 2015 01:38
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skipdogg posted:No. The newer Vdsl and Uverse products have routers that can't be put into bridge mode. Yeah, you should be able to bridge mode, and if you're doing PPPoE and want the credentials to live on the modem I believe you can also do "half-bridge" mode. But that second may be with 3rd party modems, not sure.
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May 19, 2015 01:42
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I'm trying to connect to a FRITZ!Box 7330 SL in Germany, and my Nexus 5 sees it and connects no problem, my Macbook Pro only sees it and connects after a reboot (and there are forum posts saying that it won't reconnect after sleep), and my Thinkpad W530 running CentOS 6.6 doesn't see it and won't connect to it as a Hidden Network. Has anyone experienced anything like this before?
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May 19, 2015 12:32
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flosofl posted:Get a stud finder that will detect copper pipes and electrical. I also came across this which is reasonably priced and will ease my anxiety. Also when looking up "Ethernet conduit" I get a mixed bag of definitions as to what that means. I thought it meant routing some type of piping/tubing that the Ethernet would be able to be easily routed through and protected but apparently not... Either way, thanks everyone for the guidance!
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May 19, 2015 14:56
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HONKER24 posted:I also came across this which is reasonably priced and will ease my anxiety. If you're going to run through conduit, just use regular conduit (but don't run through conduit used by electrical circuits!). Your local code may allow plenum rated cable to run behind the wall without conduit, so that may be an option as well.
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May 19, 2015 14:59
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flosofl posted:Yeah, you should be able to bridge mode, and if you're doing PPPoE and want the credentials to live on the modem I believe you can also do "half-bridge" mode. But that second may be with 3rd party modems, not sure. AT&T uses a form of 802.1x certificate based authentication on their newer U-Verse based products (VDSL, FTTP, and IP-DSLAM). You can't turn the gateway device they provide into a dumb modem bridge like you could back in the ADSL days. The DMZ/ IP Passthrough mode is about as close as you are going to get.
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May 19, 2015 15:52
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skipdogg posted:AT&T uses a form of 802.1x certificate based authentication on their newer U-Verse based products (VDSL, FTTP, and IP-DSLAM). You can't turn the gateway device they provide into a dumb modem bridge like you could back in the ADSL days. The DMZ/ IP Passthrough mode is about as close as you are going to get. Somebody on the dslreports forums has figured out a method using a VLAN-capable switch to let the 2wire do 802.1x authentication and then swap to your own router afterwards, but only if you have FTTH and your 2wire is hooked up to the NID via Ethernet. Another dslreports user reports success using a 3rd party VDSL2 modem and a Linux box to successfully bypass the 2wire. Seems like a hassle, but anecdotally it's possible.
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May 19, 2015 20:09
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I'd like to one day learn some networking as I'm hoping to get into IT (currently studying for A+) but I have no experience -at all- networking. I wanted to start a project but not sure how to go about doing it. I basically wanted to make a home media server and keep it inside the house and have it be able to link into a computer or something out in the barn so we could play a movie via a projector outside. I know how to create the server itself but the networking side I have no idea. I'm guessing I'd create the server, slap ubuntu on it, maybe put in a wifi repeater to extend the signal out to the barn or buy one of those fancy 2 antennaes thing from the OP and then conenct the projector to a laptop and I'd be able to play movies from it I'd assume. Am I wrong about any of this? Is there some better way to go about it (more efficient?).
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May 19, 2015 21:10
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Interesting. I wasn't aware of those guys.
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May 19, 2015 21:22
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I'm limited to WiFi in my apartment, but was wondering if I could have some devices communicate via ethernet (mainly, media PC to an Apple TV). I was wondering, could I have an old wireless router behave as a switch, where it just grabs the internet signal from the apartment WiFi? Is that a thing? Not much I can do about Internet speed but it'd be cool to boost performance over the network.
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May 20, 2015 01:29
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Apparently a bunch of routers have a pretty big security hole thanks to the NetUSB service. If any computer on the network has a name more than 64 characters long, it causes a buffer overflow in the kernel stack that allows for remote exploitation. https://www.sec-consult.com/fxdata/seccons/prod/temedia/advisories_txt/20150519-0_KCodes_NetUSB_Kernel_Stack_Buffer_Overflow_v10.txt The Archer routers are affected, and the list isn't complete, so please be careful if you have devices on your network that you just HAD to give thematically appropriate 400 word long elf names or if it's open to the public at all.
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May 20, 2015 18:02
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I am trying to improve my home's wireless network. I have an apple time capsule with wireless N from 2011. I am going to stick that in the basement by the cable modem and have it serve as the primary router. If I connect (wired) an airport extreme (AC) on the main floor and just have it serve as a wireless access point, would that make sense? Am I losing anything important by having my old router be the actual machine doing the routing, rather than the fancy new one? I assume the only improvement from the new airport extreme is better wireless performance, which will still be a benefit even if it's just relaying traffic to the old time capsule. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Also, will my devices just intelligently figure out to connect to the new/ faster/ better router even if they can see both the airport extreme and time capsule? Technically they will be the same network. I was planning to leave the wireless on for the time capsule so that the network in the basement isn't so awful. Thanks for any advice!
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May 20, 2015 18:06
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ndrake posted:I am trying to improve my home's wireless network. I have an apple time capsule with wireless N from 2011. I am going to stick that in the basement by the cable modem and have it serve as the primary router. If I connect (wired) an airport extreme (AC) on the main floor and just have it serve as a wireless access point, would that make sense? Am I losing anything important by having my old router be the actual machine doing the routing, rather than the fancy new one? I assume the only improvement from the new airport extreme is better wireless performance, which will still be a benefit even if it's just relaying traffic to the old time capsule. Please correct me if I'm wrong. I had that same model time capsule, and I was having issues with just the WAN port. So I completely replaced it and turned off the radio. The Time Capsule part still works fine and I use it for that, but it's hooked up via one of the LAN ports to the new AC AirPort Extreme. If you're not having any issues with it, it should be fine how you want to set it up (just make sure you turn off the radios). However, I'm a big fan of not having extra stuff on the network. If you don't need it because of cable run lengths, I'd just run an ethernet drop from your Cable/DSL modem to the new AC AirPort Extreme. You can still use the thing as a time capsule. Just turn off DHCP, the radios and and set it in bridge mode so the routing functions are turned off. However, either way (the new one or the old with DHCP turned off and in bridge mode) should work fine. EDIT: I just saw the part about wanting to use it to cover the basement. I'd be careful with using 5GHz N on that, since it *may* interfere with the newer AC network (as in your clients make a bad decision and use the older network when the AC is still in perfectly usable range) if you do the "extend a wireless network" setting. Proteus Jones fucked around with this message at 19:57 on May 20, 2015 |
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May 20, 2015 19:53
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EDIT: Quote is not edit. Quote is not edit.
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May 20, 2015 19:56
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Don Lapre posted:I use this flosofl posted:Get a stud finder 
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May 20, 2015 22:19
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Slumpy posted:I'd like to one day learn some networking as I'm hoping to get into IT (currently studying for A+) but I have no experience -at all- networking. I wanted to start a project but not sure how to go about doing it.  Buy a pair of Ubiquiti Nanostation Loco M5's and some ethernet cable , a crimper and ends. You'll need a long drill bit to get through the exterior wall of your house and barn. Mount these two on the outside, drill a hole into the interior where you want the cable to come out (and then weather seal it) and run the ethernet into the house near an electrical socket. Both of these radios support Power Over Ethernet so you use the little POE gizmo that comes with them to power them up and then run an ethernet cable from the LAN side of the POE to your router in the house and to a switch in the barn (so you can hook up more than one device. You'll need to program the radios and turn their power way down but they should give you a solid multimegabit link between the two buildings with the least amount of hassle. They act as network bridges so you just link them up and then let the router at the head end of your network in the house do all the heavy lifting for assigning IP's and such. This keeps your network "flat" so you don't have any hassle with seeing the media server in the house off a computer in the barn.
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May 20, 2015 22:28
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I moved and wifi here is needs a range extender to get to the third floor. Is it ok to setup the same SSID for both the router and the range extender ? The range externder has an option to automatically copy the SSID of the router, but my Google-fu fails me as of is this a good idea of a source of problems.
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May 20, 2015 22:33
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Spatule posted:I moved and wifi here is needs a range extender to get to the third floor. That should be fine.
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May 20, 2015 22:47
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Any thread recommendations for a good, easy to install patch panel for home use?
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May 21, 2015 15:33
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psydude posted:Any thread recommendations for a good, easy to install patch panel for home use? If you're not using a wall mount rack, this works pretty well for cat 6. http://www.amazon.com/Intellinet-12-Port-Wall-mount-Patch-560269/dp/B000BSJJ1M If you need mixed media, you'll probably need one with keystone cutouts this one says it's wall mountable. http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters%AE-Rackmount-Wallmount-Keystone/dp/B0072JVT02
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May 21, 2015 16:15
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Tried wifi n+a at 5GHz and b+g+n at 2,4GHz (defaut router config) --> speed drops to 2mbps every 5 min (from 144) on all devices, NAS file transfers at 750 kB/sec, security cam works only if 2,4GHz is on channel 6. Deactivated n just for 2.4GHz, constant 144mbps and NAS file transfers at a sold 6 - 7 MB/sec, intruders spotted every time on any channel. 
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May 21, 2015 16:26
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flosofl posted:I had that same model time capsule, and I was having issues with just the WAN port. So I completely replaced it and turned off the radio. The Time Capsule part still works fine and I use it for that, but it's hooked up via one of the LAN ports to the new AC AirPort Extreme. Thanks. So is there no good way to extend a wireless network intelligently? Or is this just a problem because one of the devices uses old technology? If I bought a new time capsule and then had two AC devices would that eliminate the problem and leave me with plenty of signal to cover both floors? Or do I always run the risk of the computer picking the "wrong" router to connect to? Say I have two airport extremes, one just in bridge mode extending the network, it's always going to be faster to connect to the one 6 feet away as opposed to the one 40 feet away. Is the computer dumb enough that if it notices the further network first it will just connect to that? And if I'm just extending the network I can't manually pick which wireless access point to connect to, can I? Sorry I'm sure this is all pretty basic.
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May 21, 2015 16:35
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psydude posted:Any thread recommendations for a good, easy to install patch panel for home use? Just go on amazon and search for 24 port cat6 patch panel and buy one. They will all be similar.
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May 21, 2015 16:41
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ndrake posted:Thanks. So is there no good way to extend a wireless network intelligently? Or is this just a problem because one of the devices uses old technology? No the client dictates which AP it will connect to. You choose the ESSID (basically the wireless network name) and the client supplicant manages which BSSID it uses behind the scenes. That's just the way 802.11 is designed. And even better, different clients have different logic and different thresholds to make that determination shrouded by the smoke and mirrors of whatever vendor of that chipset. That's also why RSSI (another "secret-sauce" formula) values can mean poo poo at times. The bitch of it is, 5GHz is the range that will more often need additional radios for coverage since it has a shorter range and poor penetration when it comes to occlusions (walls, floors, Having like for like would eliminate that, but be a bigger hit on the wallet.
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May 21, 2015 16:53
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flosofl posted:No the client dictates which AP it will connect to. You choose the ESSID (basically the wireless network name) and the client supplicant manages which BSSID it uses behind the scenes. That's just the way 802.11 is designed. And even better, different clients have different logic and different thresholds to make that determination shrouded by the smoke and mirrors of whatever vendor of that chipset. That's also why RSSI (another "secret-sauce" formula) values can mean poo poo at times. Got it, thanks. Why doesn't the stupid airport express have ac? I need that for airplay to the sonos anyway. This is getting pricey.
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May 21, 2015 17:49
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ndrake posted:Got it, thanks. Why doesn't the stupid airport express have ac? I need that for airplay to the sonos anyway. This is getting pricey. Apple TV would be a cheaper solution to get AirPlay working for Sonos. But I agree, it would be nice to see 802.11ac on the AP Express.
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May 21, 2015 18:09
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I have so much crap and thick concrete walls on my apartment, that streaming 1080p videos was possible only in one half. One day saw the same Zyxel 2.4GHz 300N boxes on clearance sale for 20eur and bought one. Works fine and now I have great wifi coverage everywhere.
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May 21, 2015 18:09
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I have been trying all combinations of wifi a b g n at 2,4 and 5ghz, and also changing SSID and frequencies (2.4, 5ghz but also on the repeater), and the (file transfer / NAS) speed varies from 0,5 to 10mB/sec depending on the combinations of settings. The default router/repeater setting giving 1 mB/s gently caress anyone involved on developing these things, this should be automatic and obvious. Why the gently caress does activating BGN gets the worst results, but G+N is the best ? And B+G is in-between ? Why does giving the same SSID on the router to 2,4 and 5gHz give better result than the recommended different name ? But the repeater SSID better be different, otherwise you'll lose 50% bandwidth. AAARGH. 3 days of experimenting just to get decent speed. This is with a router + repearter combo from the same company, same generation hardware, that is supposedly a match made in heaven btw. Sorry, venting my frustration at companies being not Apple. EDIT: WHY THE gently caress ARE THE LAN PORTS ON MY ROUTER ON 100MBPS AS A DEFAULT SETTING ???? Seriously, there is an option to switch to 1Gbps with jumbo frames, but it's disabled. You know, for people who hate any kind of decent speed. Why ? edit 2: omg, they call 100mbps "green mode". Save the planet, kick a Fritzbox developer really hard in the balls. Spatule fucked around with this message at 19:55 on May 22, 2015 |
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May 22, 2015 19:48
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Spatule posted:I have been trying all combinations of wifi a b g n at 2,4 and 5ghz, and also changing SSID and frequencies (2.4, 5ghz but also on the repeater), and the (file transfer / NAS) speed varies from 0,5 to 10mB/sec depending on the combinations of settings. The default router/repeater setting giving 1 mB/s wifi repeaters are a bunch of bullshit except these: http://www.amazon.com/OM2P-HS-802-11gn-300mbps-Access-802-3af/dp/B00K5VLJ36/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1432323961&sr=8-1&keywords=openmesh Basically plug one into a router (internet connection) and the rest will automatically repeat. If you have 2 internet connections for whatever reason, they will auto load balance. They are rock loving stable and cloud controlled. Hotels love em.
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May 22, 2015 20:47
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Anyone have any recommendations on dual wan routers that support 1 gigabit? A 100mbit one would probably work for my immediate needs, but in theory (  ) Centurylink is laying fibre in the general area of my house and it'd be nice if the router would still be usable after that happens.Also, any Minnesota Xfinity customers like one cable modem over the others? Or should I pretty much get the cheapest one I can find and plug it into the router and move on with my life?
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May 22, 2015 21:52
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Azhais posted:Anyone have any recommendations on dual wan routers that support 1 gigabit? The Ubiquiti EdgeRouter Lite can route line-rate gigabit and supports dual WAN. It doesn't have any wireless capabilities, though you could reuse an existing wireless router as an AP if you have one. Incidentally, I have an extra one for sale in SA-Mart if you're interested. With Comcast/Xfinity the Motorola SB6141 or SB6183 are solid, well-supported choices.
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May 22, 2015 23:56
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Azhais posted:Also, any Minnesota Xfinity customers like one cable modem over the others? Or should I pretty much get the cheapest one I can find and plug it into the router and move on with my life? Assuming you want one capable of 300mbit+/DOCSIS 3.0 I have the Netgear CM500-100NAS (modem only) and it's great. I suggest just going out and buying one as you end up saving in monthly rental fees pretty quickly, and it saved me from continued heartache and trauma from the garbage combo devices they kept pushing on me. If you really want a combo device I would therefore assume the Netgear C6300 is probably more tolerable than any other alternative, but seriously just get your own wifi router (or wifi ap and dedicated router).
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May 23, 2015 00:12
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I've got an airport extreme for my wifi, I never like overloading those cheap modems with any more tasks than needed. Thanks for the suggestions, gonna go do some reading
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May 23, 2015 00:20
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If I were to then, rip out my wifi extenders and bridge mode via DMZ into the AT&T router, which 2 routers would I buy? (One to use as a repeater, and one not too.)
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May 23, 2015 00:23
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redeyes posted:wifi repeaters are a bunch of bullshit except these: http://www.amazon.com/OM2P-HS-802-11gn-300mbps-Access-802-3af/dp/B00K5VLJ36/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1432323961&sr=8-1&keywords=openmesh (Psst- openmesh is bullshit too. Just a different flavor of bullshit)
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May 23, 2015 01:03
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What is the consensus best internal WiFi adapter? I get 300 MB/s down and 100 MB/s up.
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May 23, 2015 01:47
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Azhais posted:Anyone have any recommendations on dual wan routers that support 1 gigabit? Asus routers can be dual wan when running merlin
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May 23, 2015 04:36
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ThermoPhysical posted:Yeah, I posted that when I was at the store. Since then, I've been looking around places like smallnetbuilder.com and whatnot for more insight and advice and it looks like the Archos C5 is top on their "Top Performing Routers"...but most of the reviews say that the C5 has trouble with Ethernet and 2.4GHz is lacking...neither of which would be ok with my current situation. I had the exact same experience as your friends. The Asus Dark Knight RT-N66U is probably the most overrated, overhyped router I've owned, and I get the impression all the reviewers who gave it glowing reviews didn't spend much time with it. It overheats and drops connections. The 5ghz is so flaky with latency spikes and dropped connections it's basically unusable. The stock Asus firmware is junk, and the Merlin firmware isn't much better. The only way to make the router somewhat stable is to flash it with Tomato and turn off the 5ghz radio so it stops overheating, or doesn't overheat as frequently, and just use 2.4ghz. But then you're basically just left with an overpriced RT-N16. Around the two year mark the overheating and dropped connections will reach a point where it's happening so frequently that it annoys the gently caress out of you and you replace the router. One of my friends also owned a Dark Knight and had an identical experience to mine. I replaced mine with a Netgear Nighthawk X6 which has been an awesome router so far with none of the issues I experienced with the Dark Knight. The X6 has excellent range, speed, and stability, and works out of the box with a minimum of fiddling. The downside, it's $280. Dick Fagballzson fucked around with this message at 04:54 on May 23, 2015 |
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May 23, 2015 04:38
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Picked up a used ASUS RT-AC56 router for the household, but I need to upgrade my PC's adapter before I see any improvement from it. Is there still a recommended PCI network adapter that can pick up 5ghz or is it a USB/Powerline game these days?
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May 24, 2015 21:53
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Time Warner Cable NC for some reason installed a new cable modem for my parents. I do not know the model number, but the brand is Arris. Since it has been installed, I can no longer SSH to their system. The TWC guy kindly put the modem into bridge mode and turned off the wifi of the device since there is an existing router/ap in their home. The router is running dd-wrt and there is a very simple port forward from port 54321 to port 22 of their system. I have verified the port forward is correct, their system LAN IP is still the same (static), and can plainly see from a packet capture taken on their system that when I ssh or telnet to port 54321 from the WAN side that the packets never make it to their system. I telnet'd into the dd-wrt and can see the port forward iptables rules. They have never been triggered (counters are zero), so I can only assume the packets are lost/discarded at or before the Arris. I was able to locate the web GUI address and log in for this Arris thing but there is really very little in here. I cannot see any reason it would be discarding these packets. It is clearly in bridge mode so wtf >  .I can ping their WAN IP (only after disabling some silly filter in dd-wrt) so this makes me believe the Arris is at least correctly forwarding most of the traffic to the dd-wrt router. I suppose the iptables chains on the dd-wrt but it is stock except for the single port forward I added via the GUI... Any ideas here???
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May 24, 2015 22:53
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Associate Christ