|
PBCrunch posted:I remember spending $100 on a PCI wife card that offered speeds up to 11Mbps. What a great time to be alive! Do you know of a wife card that comes in PCIe? Looking for something that can handle my bandwidth if you know what I mean 
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2015 14:49
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 25, 2024 13:43 |
|
|
Lets say I want to host a LAN party. Now lets say I want to include someone who can not physically be present, but most of the games are not playable online, only via LAN or Hamachi. Is this even possible? Is there a way to have him on Hamachi, somehow bridged into my home LAN?
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2015 21:16
|
|
|
Nemesis Of Moles posted:Lets say I want to host a LAN party. You need to have Managed-mode Hamachi to bridge your LAN in, I'm pretty sure, and I'm also pretty sure you need to pay for that. You could also just have everybody use the free version of Hamachi too, though.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2015 21:26
|
|
|
Nemesis Of Moles posted:Lets say I want to host a LAN party. You need to setup a VPN server on the host network that the offsite person can connect to, then they'll appear on your LAN just like everyone else. Check the manual for your router, it might already support this. If not then you'll need to look at a third party option like OpenVPN or something similar.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2015 21:36
|
|
|
Nemesis Of Moles posted:Lets say I want to host a LAN party. When you say bridged do you mean bridged on layer 2? That is, on the same subnet as the rest of your LAN? I don't know if Hamachi can do this but if it can it is by far the easiest way to do it. I know that OpenVPN can do it but setting it up is rather complicated. Most VPNs are routed at layer 3. VPNs that are bridged at layer 2 tend to be a pain in rear end. I used to use a layer 3 routed VPN to run a Terraria server on my home LAN for a few of my friends. They just connected directly to the private IP of my server and we all played together even though we were all in different cities. The fact that they weren't actually on the same subnet as the server didn't matter. Antillie fucked around with this message at 22:17 on Dec 1, 2015 |
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2015 22:11
|
|
|
canyoneer posted:http://www.amazon.com/Netgear-Powerline-Extra-Outlet-PLP1200-100PAS/dp/B00S6DBGIS I got the ZyXEL PLA5456 and got it set up tonight. When both of them are plugged directly into the wall my speedtest.net ran at 72mbps. On a direct to the router wire connection the speed is 92mbps. When connected to a power strip without a surge protector the speed was ~35mbps. On a power strip with a surge protector the speed was ~5mbps. Those speeds are all speedtest.net tests as I don't think I have any way to test the speed between computers. I guess I could but I'm not sure how. I think I'm sold on this technology!
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2015 02:11
|
|
|
The OP hasn't been updated since 2012, is it still a good place to start? I have a WRT54G with tomato, haven't networked in a while...
|
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2015 05:06
|
|
|
1st_Panzer_Div. posted:The OP hasn't been updated since 2012, is it still a good place to start? I have a WRT54G with tomato, haven't networked in a while... No. The OP is terribly out of date. The Archer C5, C7, and C9 are good starting points as they offer great overall performance and bang for your buck (The C8 isn't different enough from the C7 and costs almost as much as the C9). The Airport Extreme is nice if you are already into the Apple ecosystem but its expensive. The Asus RT-AC66U and RT-AC68U are also nice but pricey. Same for the Netgear Nighthawk. If you want a wired only router with separate APs (or fancy advanced features without mucking around with 3rd party firmware) then the EdgerouterX and Unifi APs are great (although the UAP-AC-Lites are still hard to find). 3rd party firmware is nice if you want to do something that stock firmware can't but its not the near requirement that it once was. Antillie fucked around with this message at 16:36 on Dec 2, 2015 |
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2015 16:22
|
|
|
Antillie posted:No. The OP is terribly out of date. The Archer C5, C7, and C9 are good starting points as they offer great bang for your buck (The C8 isn't different enough from the C7 and costs almost as much as the C9). The Airport Extreme is nice if you are already into the Apple ecosystem but its expensive. The Asus RT-AC66U and RT-AC68U are also nice but pricey. Same for the Netgear nighthawk. If you want a wired only router with separate APs then the EdgerouterX and Unifi APs are great. Is the MSRP for the UAP-AC-LITE $89.95? The two sellers at Amazon just increased the poo poo out of the price of them ($180).
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2015 16:35
|
|
|
Gothmog1065 posted:Is the MSRP for the UAP-AC-LITE $89.95? The two sellers at Amazon just increased the poo poo out of the price of them ($180). IIRC the MSRP for the Lite is about $90. Most retailers are having trouble keeping them in stock though due to demand so I imagine that some resellers on Amazon are being Antillie fucked around with this message at 16:44 on Dec 2, 2015 |
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2015 16:40
|
|
|
So I've been having an issue with my LAN I can't quite pin down, specifically related to my PS4. I've been running tests via http://speedof.me/m/ just to eliminate any baseline problems with my wifi vs hard wire, etc. Any idea why my PC would get a consistent, repeatable 70mbit down (I pay for 75), wheras my PS4 would consistently only get 26-27 via a hard-wire? It's a cat5E cable, which I thought were capable of gigabit, so I don't think that's my bottleneck. The ps4's "Test network" speed test gives me a consistent repeatable 43-45mbps, which is better but still strange that I'd get less via a cable. I'm also told it's not a reliable source. I also get sporadic latency, and drops in ping, but I can't nail that down and it might be host related. Regardless, I wanted to solve the first problem first, i.e. why would two devices on the same network get radically different results? If it were the other way round, I'd understand, but the wifi device is performing optimally.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2015 03:59
|
|
|
Deviant posted:So I've been having an issue with my LAN I can't quite pin down, specifically related to my PS4. That test rates my 300Mbps internet at 30. I don't think it's a good test. Try http://www.dslreports.com/speedtest instead. What's your router?
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2015 09:00
|
|
|
Deviant posted:So I've been having an issue with my LAN I can't quite pin down, specifically related to my PS4. Because PSN sucks, and has absolutely nothing to do with your hardware. The PS4 thread has pages and pages. Network performance is atrocious. I can't explain the ping or latency except with the above.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2015 09:52
|
|
|
Prescription Combs posted:That test rates my 300Mbps internet at 30. I don't think it's a good test. Try http://www.dslreports.com/speedtest instead. "Belkin N300 Wireless N+ Dual Band" The speedtest you posted requires flash and can't be run on the PS4. Edit: Or does it? I might be mistaking it with another, and I'm at work now so I can't verify. http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Wireless-Router-Older-Generation/dp/B003CJTNK4/ sellouts posted:Because PSN sucks, and has absolutely nothing to do with your hardware. The PS4 thread has pages and pages. Network performance is atrocious. Right, and like I said, that's why I ran a test at http://speedof.me via the PS4's web browser, which presumably does not use the PSN network as well as on my PC. I feel like you both missed that part of my post. Same web browser based speed test yields vastly different results on each device. Deviant fucked around with this message at 16:59 on Dec 3, 2015 |
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2015 16:54
|
|
|
Alright goons, I need some help: http://imgur.com/a/TLNTy I moved into a townhouse with this in the walls, the labeled cable with lots of twists is labeled cat 5e. Edit: all the cables are labeled 5e. I also have a very long cat6 flat cable. What I know: I can turn these phone jacks into ethernet and then have ethernet wiring already in the house. I can buy wall plates and adapters to turn the phone jacks into ethernet jacks. What I imagine: comcast modem/router is upstairs -> my cat6 cable from modem to a wall jack upstairs -> Buy another cable to run from wall downstairs into my computer -> fast wired internet. What I don't know: Is my current cat6 cable compatible with the 5e in the wall? Or would it be a pain in the rear end and I should just buy two 5e instead of 1? Do I need to gently caress with the green board in the media box? And if I do, whats the best way? Strip, combine, and cap matching wires (how would I determine which ones...), or put adapters on them and have a switch in the media box? If it helps to make things easier, there is only need for wiring between these two rooms. Also, I don't know all the little things that can make a simple project like this not so simple, or if there are such things... Any tips/advice before I dive into looking up and buying stuff? Is this as simple as it seems? MannersPlease fucked around with this message at 19:17 on Dec 3, 2015 |
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2015 19:08
|
|
|
A cat6 jumper will be fine. As far the punchdown block in the closet, I'd remove the feed from the outside just in case there's voltage on it (you'd be surprised at how often there is, even if the line is not in use). You may also need to punch the cables down tighter to the block, some of them appear to be untwisted well past a half inch. Not sure if you need a switch or can just treat it as a patch panel though.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2015 19:23
|
|
|
Thanks for the input! How would I know which one is from the outside? I think I understand what you mean about the twists - the cable does feel like its spun much tighter in the casing than the lose stuff in the box here. I would want to keep that spin on the cable as close as possible to whatever I hook it up to, right?
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2015 19:33
|
|
|
Does one of the punhdown ports (or whatever they are) say "input"? (Upon review the topmost port looks like it says "from"...maybe that?) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TgvmM6R8rQc This video makes the general punchdown technique much clearer than I can.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2015 20:06
|
|
|
MannersPlease posted:Alright goons, I need some help: At the wall plates you'll need to replace the plate with something that allows for modular connectors like this. You can then get a network jack to connect the network cable or a RG6 connector for a cable connection. You will also need to replace the the green board with a patch panel (example). Take each of the cat5 cables coming into the green board and hook them up to a port on the patch panel using a punch down tool. (also used for the wall plates) You will then need to get a switch and connect each hooke up port on the patch panel to a port on the switch using short ethernet cables (cat5e/cat6/cat7 doesn't matter). This will give you Ethernet throughout your house.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2015 21:00
|
|
|
Krailor posted:At the wall plates you'll need to replace the plate with something that allows for modular connectors like this. Understood. This is one option. Can I bypass having to get a switch and patch panel, and just connect the two cables in the wall directly together? Just get 2 more network jacks and connect them right in the box? I am not trying to make any sort of investment in this place, and after explaining these options the guy who owns the place said to just do whatever I wanted, so if this would save me 50+ buxs that sounds like a good idea..
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2015 02:33
|
|
|
MannersPlease posted:... connect the two cables in the wall directly together? That would be this little beauty: http://www.amazon.com/kenable-Inline-Punch-Coupler-Cables/dp/B003OSLS4M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449212269&sr=8-1&keywords=punchdown+coupler  Though honestly this is the structured patch panel that fits inside the housing, $25 amazon prime: http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-47605...port+structured  ps gently caress whoever stripped the jackets on that cat5 back ~10 inches. :P CrazyLittle fucked around with this message at 08:08 on Dec 4, 2015 |
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2015 07:58
|
|
|
Or you could go full ghetto and just twist the matching wire colors together and wrap it in electrical tape.
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2015 15:37
|
|
|
CrazyLittle posted:That would be this little beauty: Yeah, someone set it up for phone lines and I guess they just didnt give a poo poo if it fucks with the cable quality for internet...hopefully there is plenty of slack so I can get connections close to the panel. I think I'll go with a panel like you posted and just connect the two rooms I need directly on the panel outputs, I think that sounds like the best combination of easy and cheap. Thanks for the tips guys, lets hope all goes well! Krailor posted:Or you could go full ghetto and just twist the matching wire colors together and wrap it in electrical tape. I couldn't really think of a way to sell that to the landlord....
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2015 20:10
|
|
|
MannersPlease posted:hopefully there is plenty of slack so I can get connections close to the panel. If the slack's all gone, you might be able to get away with re-creating a jacket using electrical tape - just line up the pairs the same way they're coming out of the original jacket and wrap carefully. It didn't look like that cable guy untwisted the pairs too far. Ideally you want to strip and untwist as close to the punch terminal as you can in order to minimize EMF crosstalk. Every time I look at that gallery my brain is screaming at me.
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2015 20:17
|
|
|
I may have gotten in over my head here going for the Edgerouter X and UAP-AC-LITE. I'm okay with this stuff normally but I'm stuck. LAN is up and running on the Edgerouter, although I did have to change the unifi http port to something other than 8080 because my PC said it was in use. The AP is connected and lit up with the solid white indicating it's waiting to be adopted (I've tried this both with it plugged directly into the POE port on the router and via the included POE adapter, same situation either way). I've turned off my Windows firewall. But the AP never shows up in the list of devices in the Unifi controller. On the router dashboard, the status of the AP's port is listed as "Connected" but there is no IP address assigned. I don't know where to go from here. Is changing from the default 8080 port keeping the AP from being discovered?
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2015 20:36
|
|
|
Papercut posted:I may have gotten in over my head here going for the Edgerouter X and UAP-AC-LITE. I'm okay with this stuff normally but I'm stuck. Have you updated the firmware on the AP? I've heard there are some issues with it never getting adopted because of a firmware issue. Let me see if I can find a link. e: Most of what I'm seeing is an out of date AP controller. Good luck with it. I'd hit up the Ubiquiti forums, they seem to be pretty good at getting your issue resolved. Gothmog1065 fucked around with this message at 20:48 on Dec 4, 2015 |
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2015 20:40
|
|
|
Gothmog1065 posted:Have you updated the firmware on the AP? I've heard there are some issues with it never getting adopted because of a firmware issue. Let me see if I can find a link. Yeah thanks. I submitted a ticket so I'm hoping Ubiquiti can just walk me through it, but I'll have to try the forums as well if that doesn't work.
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2015 20:59
|
|
|
Papercut posted:Yeah thanks. I submitted a ticket so I'm hoping Ubiquiti can just walk me through it, but I'll have to try the forums as well if that doesn't work. Not sure if I am understanding the whole explanation, but going for the obvious and the way they suggest setting it up to be easier, is the wireless AP in the same Layer 2 as the controller / PC? If it isn't in the same Layer 2 then you will have to modify a file: https://community.ubnt.com/t5/UniFi-Wireless/Adopting-your-Existing-APs-to-set-inform-to-L3-Controller/td-p/471517 See if that helps you out!
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2015 21:13
|
|
|
Does anyone have experience with those powerline network adaptors. Do they work well?
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2015 21:32
|
|
|
SmokyWings posted:Does anyone have experience with those powerline network adaptors. Do they work well? It mostly depends on how old the wiring in your house is. I've heard mostly moderately OK if you need internet somewhere and you can't use WiFi or run cat cable for whatever reason.
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2015 21:42
|
|
|
SmokyWings posted:Does anyone have experience with those powerline network adaptors. Do they work well? Been running a pair almost 2 years and they still work pretty well. I'm a fan when other alternatives won't work.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2015 00:04
|
|
|
CrazyLittle posted:If the slack's all gone, you might be able to get away with re-creating a jacket using electrical tape - just line up the pairs the same way they're coming out of the original jacket and wrap carefully. It didn't look like that cable guy untwisted the pairs too far. Ideally you want to strip and untwist as close to the punch terminal as you can in order to minimize EMF crosstalk. It's done and my connection is great- ping test gives me 19ms ping and 3ms jitter to a server ~300 miles away. Thanks for the help...if anyone else is thinking about doing this its VERY easy, even if you know nothing about electrical systems.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2015 00:09
|
|
|
Eero mesh routers are delayed to "before February" for the first shipment, only half a year late is pretty good for a kickstarter these days 
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2015 00:32
|
|
|
SmokyWings posted:Does anyone have experience with those powerline network adaptors. Do they work well? I tried the Monoprice "gigabit" powerline adapters. When they worked they were getting ~20mbit throughput about ~300ft point to point over house wiring. This is because I have horrible evil AFCI breakers on the outlets that I was installing on, and those breakers also interpreted the HPNA signal as a ground fault and would trip occasionally. I also had an occupancy sensor lite in a closet on that same circuit breaker, and the HPNA signal would cause the motion sensor to trigger false motion. Otherwise it's a great, easy alternative to wiring! 
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2015 01:55
|
|
|
CrazyLittle posted:If the slack's all gone, you might be able to get away with re-creating a jacket using electrical tape - just line up the pairs the same way they're coming out of the original jacket and wrap carefully. It didn't look like that cable guy untwisted the pairs too far. Ideally you want to strip and untwist as close to the punch terminal as you can in order to minimize EMF crosstalk. The jacket doesn't do anything for noise rejection unless it's STP (unlikely). The twists are what need to be maintained most of all. comedy option:
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2015 03:22
|
|
|
SmokyWings posted:Does anyone have experience with those powerline network adaptors. Do they work well? They can work well. If you have coax cable in your house that you aren't using (because sensible people have cancelled their cable), you can use cheap Ethernet to coax (DECA) adapters. In my experience they deliver a rock solid 100Mbps. The cable in the walls can no longer be used for cable TV.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2015 03:30
|
|
|
Deviant posted:Right, and like I said, that's why I ran a test at http://speedof.me via the PS4's web browser, which presumably does not use the PSN network as well as on my PC. I feel like you both missed that part of my post. Same web browser based speed test yields vastly different results on each device. No, I didn't miss that part of the post. PS4's networking is a joke, both wired and wireless. Did your PC run speedof.me or speedof.me/m/? On the same computer I get ~70mbps less from speedof.me/m/ as I do from speedof.me Aside from that, change ports on the router? Change cables? Anything like that?
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2015 05:43
|
|
|
bigdookie posted:Not sure if I am understanding the whole explanation, but going for the obvious and the way they suggest setting it up to be easier, is the wireless AP in the same Layer 2 as the controller / PC? Okay I'm a dummy. Got it working. Realized eth2-eth4 were on a different subnet than eth0, so had to connect my PC to a different port. Then my AP became discoverable. Adoption failed at first but it seemed like assigning the AP a static AP fixed that. Papercut fucked around with this message at 07:12 on Dec 5, 2015 |
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2015 05:52
|
|
|
PBCrunch posted:They can work well. This is something I had never considered as an option before, that's genius.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2015 07:37
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 25, 2024 13:43 |
|
|
PBCrunch posted:They can work well. I'm using MoCa adapters, which can share a coax cable with cable TV. I haven't benchmarked them with other devices inside the house, but internet speed tests show the MoCa-connected devices are no slower than my desktop that's plugged right into the Ethernet switch.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2015 18:17
|
|
