Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
ufarn
May 30, 2009

GobiasIndustries posted:

What DNS settings did your router have before you switched them to Google's DNS servers?

edit: if you didn't have anything in the DNS settings on the router (they're optional for the C7) and thats what you're using as a DHCP server 't's possible whatever servers it was using from your ISP defaults are messed up. Using Google DNS isn't really a problem you need to fix honestly, it's not going to break anything for typical use.
My iOS devices and MacBook were set to 192.168.0.1, the router, and Windows was set to automatic. Seemed to have problems across all devices. It just sucks if I have to look into doing this with my PS4, Apple TV, Smart TV, etc etc etc, so I'd much rather try to find something that just works straight-up. Unfortunately, my ISP couldn't be more clueless, so I don't expect them to be able to handle the situation themselves, so I was hoping to do something on my router or ISP modem/router.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

GobiasIndustries
Dec 14, 2007

Lipstick Apathy

ufarn posted:

My iOS devices and MacBook were set to 192.168.0.1, the router, and Windows was set to automatic. Seemed to have problems across all devices. It just sucks if I have to look into doing this with my PS4, Apple TV, Smart TV, etc etc etc, so I'd much rather try to find something that just works straight-up. Unfortunately, my ISP couldn't be more clueless, so I don't expect them to be able to handle the situation themselves, so I was hoping to do something on my router or ISP modem/router.

Are you using DHCP on all of your devices (i.e. not entering each device's IP address manually)? If so you should only need to be updating DNS settings on your router and letting each device receive the DNS addresses automatically when they receive their IP address.

Edit: so, I have the C7 too; I've got the DNS servers in the DHCP settings set to OpenDNS servers; all of my devices pick up on that automatically if they're set to receive their IP via DHCP. I don't need to manually set anything on individual devices since I've got it configured on the DHCP server (the router). Setting your Apple devices to use your router address as their DNS server was definitely causing issues because your router isn't a DNS server, it's a DHCP server that provides a DNS server address to the clients (your ISP default DNS server if you don't specify something in settings). Hope that makes sense.

GobiasIndustries fucked around with this message at 02:54 on Feb 11, 2016

Wardende
Apr 27, 2013
Somewhat frequently, my internet will start to drop a lot of packets and have exaggerated ping times. When this happens, I run a tracert to something benign like google.com. It looks something like this:

code:
Tracing route to google.com [216.58.217.46]
over a maximum of 30 hops:

  1     1 ms    <1 ms     1 ms  192.168.0.1 
  2    11 ms     8 ms    15 ms  96.120.12.197 
  3    27 ms    15 ms    79 ms  xe-10-1-3-sur01.denver.co.denver.comcast.net [68.85.107.117] 
  4    14 ms     8 ms    18 ms  ae-20-ar01.denver.co.denver.comcast.net [68.86.128.169] 
  5     *        *        *     Request timed out.
  6    12 ms    16 ms    17 ms  be-11719-cr02.denver.co.ibone.comcast.net [68.86.86.77] 
  7    11 ms    13 ms    10 ms  hu-0-11-0-5-pe02.910fifteenth.co.ibone.comcast.net [68.86.84.170] 
  8    91 ms    53 ms    56 ms  as15169-1-c.910fifteenth.co.ibone.comcast.net [23.30.206.106] 
  9    11 ms    18 ms    14 ms  72.14.234.57 
 10    15 ms    10 ms    14 ms  209.85.250.255 
 11    14 ms    10 ms    10 ms  den03s10-in-f14.1e100.net [216.58.217.46] 

Trace complete.
See that Request Timed out at step 5? That spot is always a particular server, be-33652-cr01.1601milehigh.co.ibone.comcast.net [68.86.92.121]. (Or something on the 1601milehigh.co.ibone.comcast.net area). How can I avoid this server? Or if I can't, what can I do about this? What is the problem?

John Capslocke
Jun 5, 2007
Just because it's not replying to ICMP ECHO doesn't mean its the issue,tons of stuff doesn't respond to it or deprioritizes it.

Wardende
Apr 27, 2013
It does respond to it when my network functions normally, and stops when it starts to misbehave, which indicated to me that its the guilty party. But what is a better tool for diagnosing problems on a network if the tracert is not a reliable indicator?

Antillie
Mar 14, 2015

Wardende posted:

It does respond to it when my network functions normally, and stops when it starts to misbehave, which indicated to me that its the guilty party. But what is a better tool for diagnosing problems on a network if the tracert is not a reliable indicator?

Its possible that you might be taking one path through the Comcast network most of the time, and then every once in a while you take a different path for some reason, a path that has issues of some sort. Does a trace to 216.58.217.46 when everything is working take a different path?

Also are you using a Windows box or a Mac do run your traceroute? Windows uses ICMP for traceroute and Linux/Unix/BSD and OSX use UDP for traceroute by default. Sometimes ICMP, UDP, and TCP traceroutes between the same two points don't look the same because reasons. Sadly all three traceroute types are dependent on ICMP Time Exceeded messages being sent from the various hops along the path to work. And not all routers bother sending ICMP Time Exceeded messages for various reasons.

In any case, if you see two totally different paths through the Comcast network when things are working vs when they are not then you need to yell at Comcast to fix their poo poo.

Antillie fucked around with this message at 04:56 on Feb 11, 2016

grimcreaper
Jan 7, 2012

Question for you guys who might know

I had an unknown device on my network earlier tonight name ARCHLAP. was listed as a Windows 7 OS by Rygel Developers according to the device entry.
It was listed as a Wireless connection at first, so i thought it was some leech on my wifi or something. I disabled WiFi entirely, and the connection was now listed as a LAN device that was still connected. I have 2 computers connected via hardline, mine and the general family pc. Mine is the only one thats turned on at the moment.

Anyone have any idea wtf it could be? Its really throwing me through a loop here. I do remember that my Motorola Surfboard used to be listed in the devices, but that no longer shows up. It was labeled specifically as Motorola-SB.

Right now, the DHCP client list only shows my PC, but the active devices is showing 2 copies of my old ipod 4th gen, my android phone, my surface pro 4 tablet, my pc, and ARCHLAP as being online. My phone and ipod cant connect to anything since WiFi is disabled. Is it possible my router is just screwed up and displaying bad info?

I just cant figure out what the hell this ARCHLAP thing is considering its showing as a LAN connection now. Anyone got any ideas?

ufarn
May 30, 2009

GobiasIndustries posted:

Are you using DHCP on all of your devices (i.e. not entering each device's IP address manually)? If so you should only need to be updating DNS settings on your router and letting each device receive the DNS addresses automatically when they receive their IP address.

Edit: so, I have the C7 too; I've got the DNS servers in the DHCP settings set to OpenDNS servers; all of my devices pick up on that automatically if they're set to receive their IP via DHCP. I don't need to manually set anything on individual devices since I've got it configured on the DHCP server (the router). Setting your Apple devices to use your router address as their DNS server was definitely causing issues because your router isn't a DNS server, it's a DHCP server that provides a DNS server address to the clients (your ISP default DNS server if you don't specify something in settings). Hope that makes sense.
iOS and OS X go with my C7 IP by default for DNS setting, so I should just leave that there, right? I'll set up the DNS on the C7 and try to roll back the manual setup on my other devices and go back to automatic/192.168.0.1 as the DNS. Default gateway is still 192.168.0.1 on the C7.

Thermopyle
Jul 1, 2003

...the stupid are cocksure while the intelligent are full of doubt. —Bertrand Russell

I'm in the market for a new home router for the first time in 5+ years.

I've got a fairly complex and busy network...right now I've got 24 devices with DHCP leases.

Looking for good WiFi coverage, good QoS, and good default firmware, but something that I can put OpenWRT or whatever third-party firmware on it in the future if I decide to. Really, though, I just don't feel like messing with the firmware, so something that works well out of the box is a big plus.

My internet is 120/4 and as you can imagine I've got to micromanage applications like Crashplan to keep them from making my internet slow because it's so easy to eat up that 4 mbit upload speed. It'd be great to have QoS manage that for me.

$200 or less would be good.

Any recommendations?

GobiasIndustries
Dec 14, 2007

Lipstick Apathy

ufarn posted:

iOS and OS X go with my C7 IP by default for DNS setting, so I should just leave that there, right? I'll set up the DNS on the C7 and try to roll back the manual setup on my other devices and go back to automatic/192.168.0.1 as the DNS. Default gateway is still 192.168.0.1 on the C7.

If you manually input DNS servers on the DHCP settings on your router, it will tell any device that uses it for DHCP to use those servers unless you manually override it in the OS X settings.

Here is what my settings look like:

Krailor
Nov 2, 2001
I'm only pretending to care
Taco Defender

Thermopyle posted:

I'm in the market for a new home router for the first time in 5+ years.

I've got a fairly complex and busy network...right now I've got 24 devices with DHCP leases.

Looking for good WiFi coverage, good QoS, and good default firmware, but something that I can put OpenWRT or whatever third-party firmware on it in the future if I decide to. Really, though, I just don't feel like messing with the firmware, so something that works well out of the box is a big plus.

My internet is 120/4 and as you can imagine I've got to micromanage applications like Crashplan to keep them from making my internet slow because it's so easy to eat up that 4 mbit upload speed. It'd be great to have QoS manage that for me.

$200 or less would be good.

Any recommendations?

I'm a big fan of an EdgeRouter Lite for routing paired with a UAP-AC-Lite for WiFi.

If you can find an EdgeRouterX for significantly less than a Lite you could go that route too but recently they've been marking up the X to almost the same price as the Lite.

This gives you a great router and WiFi AP that should be able to handle any residential situation for under $200. You should update the firmware on the Lite when you first get it but after that they have nice guided setup to get online and a lot of QoS and traffic shaping options.

chizad
Jul 9, 2001

'Cus we find ourselves in the same old mess
Singin' drunken lullabies

Krailor posted:

I'm a big fan of an EdgeRouter Lite for routing paired with a UAP-AC-Lite for WiFi.

If you can find an EdgeRouterX for significantly less than a Lite you could go that route too but recently they've been marking up the X to almost the same price as the Lite.

This gives you a great router and WiFi AP that should be able to handle any residential situation for under $200. You should update the firmware on the Lite when you first get it but after that they have nice guided setup to get online and a lot of QoS and traffic shaping options.

How timely. I've got an EdgeRouter LIte arriving tomorrow and was about to post asking if there was anything special I need to know, but it looks like you've covered it. :)

We're demoing some Meraki stuff at work, so I sat through the switch and AP webinars to get the promo items, so I have those for the rest of my network, at least in the short term. Once I get bored with the cutesy cloud control stuff, I'll probably look into the UAP-AC-Lite (and maybe one of the ToughSwitch models) for a permanent solution.

MrMoo
Sep 14, 2000

Eero is finally shipping, :woop:

CrazyLittle
Sep 11, 2001





Clapping Larry

chizad posted:

How timely. I've got an EdgeRouter LIte arriving tomorrow and was about to post asking if there was anything special I need to know, but it looks like you've covered it. :)

We're demoing some Meraki stuff at work, so I sat through the switch and AP webinars to get the promo items, so I have those for the rest of my network, at least in the short term. Once I get bored with the cutesy cloud control stuff, I'll probably look into the UAP-AC-Lite (and maybe one of the ToughSwitch models) for a permanent solution.

Yeah, I did the AP demo for Meraki and got one MR18 out of it, but ended up friending that one away because a single AP isn't enough to distribute throughout my whole house. Went with 3x UAP-AC-Pro + 1 UAP-Pro that I had from the Ubiquiti cert class. I've got no wifi coverage issues now :)

Le0
Mar 18, 2009

Rotten investigator!
Guys I have a problem on my home network that I'm having a hard time finding the source of.
This is how my network is setup:



The netgear is my old router that was replaced by the Nighthawk and does the same thing (DHCP and router), but I set it to bridge mode. I'm thinking about buying a switch to replace it cause it's been doing weird stuff lately.
My nighthawk provides two wifi network a 5Ghz and a 2.4Ghz

On the 2.4Ghz there is my chromecast and the two sonos. Everything else that is not wired is on the 5Ghz.
Now, I regularly have problem with the devices on the 2.4Ghz cannot access internet somehow. Chromecast will complain that it is properly connected to the network but cannot access internet, the Sonos are also very finicky but I don't think they access internet, only my NAS where my music is stored. I never have this type of problems on the 5Ghz network.

Yesterday my Chromecast was complaining about not being able to access internet, so I rebooted my nighthawk and then it worked :confused:

Could anyone suggest how to trouble shoot this issue? I've tried looking on my router page when I have the problem but I cannot really see anything out of the ordinary.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

What's it called when you use a wireless router to connect to and extend another wifi network, and / or connect wired devices to the router to connect to that other wifi network?

(I have my cable modem downstairs, providing a wifi network, I have a (Linksys EA2700) router upstairs that I want to connect to that wifi and have the desktop computer hardwired to it connect.)

Sheep
Jul 24, 2003
Bridging?

Antillie
Mar 14, 2015

Le0 posted:

Guys I have a problem on my home network that I'm having a hard time finding the source of.
This is how my network is setup:



The netgear is my old router that was replaced by the Nighthawk and does the same thing (DHCP and router), but I set it to bridge mode. I'm thinking about buying a switch to replace it cause it's been doing weird stuff lately.
My nighthawk provides two wifi network a 5Ghz and a 2.4Ghz

On the 2.4Ghz there is my chromecast and the two sonos. Everything else that is not wired is on the 5Ghz.
Now, I regularly have problem with the devices on the 2.4Ghz cannot access internet somehow. Chromecast will complain that it is properly connected to the network but cannot access internet, the Sonos are also very finicky but I don't think they access internet, only my NAS where my music is stored. I never have this type of problems on the 5Ghz network.

Yesterday my Chromecast was complaining about not being able to access internet, so I rebooted my nighthawk and then it worked :confused:

Could anyone suggest how to trouble shoot this issue? I've tried looking on my router page when I have the problem but I cannot really see anything out of the ordinary.

My best guess is either the 2.4ghz band is just clogged up with other people's networks or something else (baby monitor, cordless phone, ect...) is occasionally making GBS threads on the 2.4ghz band. Either that or your old netgear router is still broadcasting its own 2.4ghz network with the same SSID and isn't relaying DHCP broadcasts properly from the wifi to the wired.

Antillie
Mar 14, 2015

Krakkles posted:

What's it called when you use a wireless router to connect to and extend another wifi network,

This can mean either:

1. A second AP.
2. A wifi repeater.
3. A wifi range extender.

Each of these things are very very different from each other. A second AP is by far the best option as the other two options each suck in their own unique way.

Krakkles posted:

or connect wired devices to the router to connect to that other wifi network?

(I have my cable modem downstairs, providing a wifi network, I have a (Linksys EA2700) router upstairs that I want to connect to that wifi and have the desktop computer hardwired to it connect.)

You are describing a wifi bridge. While certainly possible it usually requires 3rd party firmware such as DD-WRT.

Antillie fucked around with this message at 18:34 on Feb 12, 2016

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

Antillie posted:

You are describing a wifi bridge. While certainly possible it usually requires 3rd party firmware such as DD-WRT.
drat. Ok, off to find out if I can install that on my router.

Is there a better way (other than hardwiring) to connect a desktop, a NAS, and an IP phone upstairs to a modem / router downstairs?

The desktop I could just get a wifi card for, but the IP phone and the NAS probably not.

Antillie
Mar 14, 2015

Krakkles posted:

drat. Ok, off to find out if I can install that on my router.

Is there a better way (other than hardwiring) to connect a desktop, a NAS, and an IP phone upstairs to a modem / router downstairs?

The desktop I could just get a wifi card for, but the IP phone and the NAS probably not.

You can try powerline adapters. However the type and age of the wiring in your house makes a huge difference in how they will perform. Using powerline adapters to hook up a second AP is a common way to extend wifi coverage.

Thermopyle
Jul 1, 2003

...the stupid are cocksure while the intelligent are full of doubt. —Bertrand Russell

Krakkles posted:

drat. Ok, off to find out if I can install that on my router.

Is there a better way (other than hardwiring) to connect a desktop, a NAS, and an IP phone upstairs to a modem / router downstairs?

The desktop I could just get a wifi card for, but the IP phone and the NAS probably not.

Powerline networking.

Thermopyle
Jul 1, 2003

...the stupid are cocksure while the intelligent are full of doubt. —Bertrand Russell

MrMoo posted:

Eero is finally shipping, :woop:



What's the difference between this and Open Mesh? I haven't paid attention to home networking products in a while so I hadn't heard of this device, but looking over the web page it seems pretty similar to the cheaper (or maybe not, I can't tell how many AP's come with the eero), Open Mesh devices.

politicorific
Sep 15, 2007

bvoid posted:

So I just got this card for my desktop, and I'm noticing some discrepancies between sending and receiving data wirelessly.

I noticed I was getting worse internet speed than my Macbook, so I did some throughput tests with iperf. Both on 5GZ wireless-N, both in the same room, testing bandwidth to a PC connected directly to the router. These were the results of the Macbook test:

Sending data:
code:
[ ID] Interval 		 Transfer     Bandwidth
[ 6]    0.00-10.00 sec 	  176 MBytes   148 Mbits/sec
Receiving data:
code:
[ ID] Interval 		 Transfer     Bandwidth
[ 6]    0.00-10.00 sec 	  195 MBytes   163 Mbits/sec
And these were the results on my PC with the new wireless card:

Sending data:
code:
[ ID] Interval           Transfer     Bandwidth
[  4]   0.00-10.00  sec   220 MBytes   184 Mbits/sec
Receiving data:
code:
[ ID] Interval           Transfer     Bandwidth
[  4]   0.00-10.00  sec   118 MBytes   99.0 Mbits/sec
Anyone have any idea what's causing the discrepancy? I can't think of any settings that were changed on the PC side of things, or anything that would cause the router to bottleneck the outgoing bandwidth to 100Mbps. I should also mention that, using speedtest.net, I'm getting 98 Mbps down on the PC and 128 Mbps down on the Macbook, in the same location, so it looks like it's limited by my receiving data rate.
Hi, I didn't see anyone answer your post.

What router are you using? Is it 3x3 MIMO?

Not all wireless chipsets are created equal or work well with each other.

You've eliminated the environmental factors, leaving just a few things which you may have no control over.

1) Hardware configuration (i.e. cheap chipset versus quality Apple chipset - there's a reason why Apple wireless products have been recommended so often over the years). Mediatek, Broadcom, Realtek, and Qualcom have a number of chipsets, each with dozens and dozens different factors made during design and production which effect speed. Unfortunately there's so much voodoo in wireless, that even selecting the same chipsets for all your wireless devices may not offer the best speeds as some wireless chipset vendors just have plain better implementations.

2) Software configuration (Windows vs. OSX) - you might find driver settings you can tweak to ensure that you're really getting MIMO out of your card. Apple has fewer chipsets they need to optimize for.

3) Router configuration. You might be running mixed bandwidth settings 20/40/80 Mhz, and your wireless card or router has negotiated a lower speed. Try manually enforcing a higher bandwidth settings and running your test again. Again, there are a bunch of things you might not be able to adjust like QAM.

Regardless, you're running Wireless N on 5 Ghz, which is a waste! Disable N on 5 Ghz and let the better AC technology have exclusive reign. That TP-Link card says it can do AC1900, so you might be able to get 3-4 times or more performance. It's time to leave the 2.4 GHz spectrum to legacy A/B/G/N devices and 5 GHz to AC.

Inspector_666
Oct 7, 2003

benny with the good hair

Krakkles posted:

drat. Ok, off to find out if I can install that on my router.

Before you put to much effort into this, know that wireless bridging/extension will pretty much never work as well as you want.

MrMoo
Sep 14, 2000

Thermopyle posted:

What's the difference between this and Open Mesh? I haven't paid attention to home networking products in a while so I hadn't heard of this device, but looking over the web page it seems pretty similar to the cheaper (or maybe not, I can't tell how many AP's come with the eero), Open Mesh devices.

The ycombinator page probably has your answers, one of them states:

bgix posted:

I have been peppering eero's "Questions" link for the past few days, and have gotten a lot of information, and have been suitably impressed enough to pre-order.

1. In the Mesh, all units using the same MAC address and Channel. This means no actual "hand-off" needs to be made from the perspective of the client device, even as you move about the covered area. It sounds like Antenna Diversity on Steroids.... There will need to be multi-path-rx consolidation done within the mesh, and some decision making which eero (and which antenna on the specific eero) to send device bound packets to.

Hopefully more details will follow when it gets into more peoples hands.

Thermopyle
Jul 1, 2003

...the stupid are cocksure while the intelligent are full of doubt. —Bertrand Russell

Is there anywhere I can see a demo of the edgerouter web ui? Googlin' doesn't turn up anything...

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

Inspector_666 posted:

Before you put to much effort into this, know that wireless bridging/extension will pretty much never work as well as you want.
Thank you. Based on this, I'm taking the suggestion above for powerline networking. Thanks all!

Thermopyle
Jul 1, 2003

...the stupid are cocksure while the intelligent are full of doubt. —Bertrand Russell

Krailor posted:

I'm a big fan of an EdgeRouter Lite for routing paired with a UAP-AC-Lite for WiFi.

If you can find an EdgeRouterX for significantly less than a Lite you could go that route too but recently they've been marking up the X to almost the same price as the Lite.

This gives you a great router and WiFi AP that should be able to handle any residential situation for under $200. You should update the firmware on the Lite when you first get it but after that they have nice guided setup to get online and a lot of QoS and traffic shaping options.

I went with this after doing a bunch of reading. Thanks for the nudge in the right direction!

GobiasIndustries
Dec 14, 2007

Lipstick Apathy
Does anyone have experience with small business-ish managed switches? I need more ports than I have, and since I'm planning to upgrade to an EdgeRouter anyway I'd like to have something that I can use to get hands-on with vlans, qos, etc. I was thinking about a TP-Link product: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005KQ5FSG but don't know if it'd be easier/better to stick to an EdgeSwitch product

CrazyLittle
Sep 11, 2001





Clapping Larry

Thermopyle posted:

Is there anywhere I can see a demo of the edgerouter web ui? Googlin' doesn't turn up anything...

oh poop. I if I were at my office today I would have tossed something up for you.

CrazyLittle
Sep 11, 2001





Clapping Larry

GobiasIndustries posted:

Does anyone have experience with small business-ish managed switches? I need more ports than I have, and since I'm planning to upgrade to an EdgeRouter anyway I'd like to have something that I can use to get hands-on with vlans, qos, etc. I was thinking about a TP-Link product: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005KQ5FSG but don't know if it'd be easier/better to stick to an EdgeSwitch product

That should be fine, and you'll be able to apply the concepts of VLANs but don't expect it to directly translate over to something like Cisco IOS command-line syntax since every vendor has their own dumb quirks.

GobiasIndustries
Dec 14, 2007

Lipstick Apathy

CrazyLittle posted:

That should be fine, and you'll be able to apply the concepts of VLANs but don't expect it to directly translate over to something like Cisco IOS command-line syntax since every vendor has their own dumb quirks.

Oh yeah no, I'm not expecting the syntax to convert over 100% or anything like that, I'm looking for something a bit more advanced than what I have and that I can use to apply some of what I'm studying to in the real world. If it's a managed switch and I've got the general concept of what I want to do down I'd expect it to be similar to learning how to use a new OS: same concept different execution.

Thermopyle
Jul 1, 2003

...the stupid are cocksure while the intelligent are full of doubt. —Bertrand Russell

CrazyLittle posted:

oh poop. I if I were at my office today I would have tossed something up for you.

That's cool, but I found enough youtube videos to get a good idea of how it's set up.

chizad
Jul 9, 2001

'Cus we find ourselves in the same old mess
Singin' drunken lullabies
So, I finally decided to order an ERL the other day and it was delivered today. I get home, check my mail on the way to my apartment, and what do I see on the bulletin board? A notice that Google Fiber installs will be starting on Wednesday in my apartment complex. Looks like I won't be using this ERL for very long.

Oh well, still gave me an excuse to tidy up the area behind my entertainment center where my network gear lives.

Setup for basic SOHO functions was a breeze, aside from a couple quirks.

1) Using the 1WAN+2LAN2 wizard, it kept defaulting to a 192.168.1.0/24 network on LAN1/eth1, even though I told it I wanted it to be 192.168.42.0/24. I was leaving the LAN2/eth2 section unconfigured, assuming that there was a sane default configuration it would use if I didn't change anything. When I finally expanded that section and changed it's IP range as well, the config was actually applied and I had the network I wanted on LAN1.

2) The other thing that tripped me up was the auto firewall stuff for port forwarding. I assumed it would automatically create the appropriate FW rules based on the port forwards you had set up and create a new ruleset for them, but no matter what I just had the default rulesets in the web UI so I assumed something wasn't working right. After a bit of testing I determined that everything was working as intended and the ports were open and going to the proper destinations. Need to take a deeper look at it over the weekend to try and get a better understanding of what the auto firewall stuff is actually doing.

JamesieAB
Nov 5, 2005

knox_harrington posted:

BT have had pretty big problems countrywide with their service the past few days. Not sure whether that's been resolved everywhere - the place I'm staying at has got back to normal.

Separately to that, the modem / router / AP they provide can be a bit poo poo. Since you're having to restart it a lot you could replace it. I got a (thread favourite) ubiquiti edge router + AP and it's been great.

Thanks for the info, is there somewhere I can find out more about Bt's problems. I have tried both the bt home hub and a cisco linksys router with equal results.

An engineer came round a few days ago and replaced the outside connection and fitted a new phone socket inside, on the old phone socket he was getting a lot of errors but with the new one he was getting 6.4Mbs to the exchange on my 8Mbs service. Unfortunately the routers are still only getting 0.12 of the bandwidth.

I tried tracert and there are a number of timeouts between bt and bbc.co.uk/amazon.co.uk but I'm a bit stumped about what to try next other than call support.

Any suggestions?

Update

For anyone struggling with BT broadband at the moment.

I just tried to get BT support to do a hard reset on my account and when they quoted 2-3 days to do it I mentioned complaining to the telecomunications ombudsman. It was fixed within an hour and I'm now getting over 7Mbs. It's been suggested on various broadband forums that BT's network is particularly susceptible to heavy rains like the ones that caused the recent floods and that this screws up everything.

JamesieAB fucked around with this message at 18:18 on Feb 13, 2016

CrazyLittle
Sep 11, 2001





Clapping Larry

chizad posted:

Google Fiber installs will be starting on Wednesday in my apartment complex. Looks like I won't be using this ERL for very long.
Unless the Google Fiber installs are providing you with some fancypants router that also does gigabit, you'll probably still want the ERL as your firewall and NAT device.

chizad posted:

Need to take a deeper look at it over the weekend to try and get a better understanding of what the auto firewall stuff is actually doing.
If you want to dive into the command line shell (even via the gui) try using this command:
show configuration commands

Antillie
Mar 14, 2015

Google fiber provides a router box that does some really odd stuff with vlans and QoS. Its possible to replicate its behavior with a managed switch and a pfSense router but its a pain in the rear end. Unless you really like messing around with technical stuff its easier to just use their router box.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

Krakkles posted:

Thank you. Based on this, I'm taking the suggestion above for powerline networking. Thanks all!
Trip report: Bought a TP-Link kit off of Amazon, got free next day shipping (woo!), plugged it in and had it connected in about 5 minutes. Works great!

Thanks again, everybody.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Super Dude
Jan 23, 2005
Do the Jew
I'm looking to pick up a new cable modem since my new ISP provides much faster speeds

The following 3 cable modems have high ratings, but seemingly identical features. Which should I choose?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R92CEVU?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SB6183-DOCSIS-Cable/dp/B00MA5U1FW/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1455472593&sr=1-1&keywords=SB6183
http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-Cert...keywords=MB7420

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply