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I was never sure whether or not this was purely necessary, but when I used to be out and about grabbing wifi when I could, I would VPN into my home network with the highest security settings available and do my banking through that. Now I just tether my phone. I hope Sprint isn't stealing my banking info 
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Oct 16, 2011 22:30
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Sano posted:I've been using my WRT54G for around 6 years now. I've been playing online video games for the PS2/PS3/360 in my basement (2 floors down separated from the router) and used to be a really good host when hosting game rooms. I've also been using it to browse with my laptop and it's worked well with it anywhere within the basement.
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Oct 22, 2011 04:21
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Sano posted:I've been using my WRT54G for around 6 years now. I've been playing online video games for the PS2/PS3/360 in my basement (2 floors down separated from the router) and used to be a really good host when hosting game rooms. I've also been using it to browse with my laptop and it's worked well with it anywhere within the basement. Does your repeater have a Clinton mode and an Ethernet port. The only suggestion I gave to troubleshooting the problem is to turn it onto client mode somewhere you get decent signal, then run a cord to your gaming devices, and seeing if it still is unacceptable.
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Oct 22, 2011 22:04
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Whoops typo & auto correct; client mode. That isn't a permanent fix, obviously, just trying to troubleshooting your issue. If you're not wanting to see if you can get it to work, you could always just buy bigger antennas for your wrt
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Oct 23, 2011 16:22
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Sano posted:do bigger antenna attachments actually work? Seems cheaper then buying a whole new router. I'd just jump on eBay and either get the official Linksys antenna upgrade (Linksys HGA7T 7DBi TNC Antenna Kit + Bracket) or try your luck with the generic 9DBi kit for a little less. Looks like the linksys one is ~18 shipped, generic ~10 shipped.
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Oct 23, 2011 22:56
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Goodpancakes posted:We have a nice lab setup in the basement of a University building with several computers and a printer all plugged into the University network. The problem is that anyone in the building can access the printer without being in the lab. The result is that we run through a TON of toner due to people jacking the printer and printing stuff from somewhere else in the building. Is there a solution to this particular problem? What model printer?
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Oct 26, 2011 22:46
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devmd01 posted:its me, im the lovely neighbor. Ubiquiti AP at the peak of my attic...haven't done a proper site survey, but let's just say that streaming pandora over wifi-only on my blackberry in every corner of my yard works just fine.
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Oct 26, 2011 23:52
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Walked posted:
Virginia Girl is a giant rear end in a top hat.
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Nov 3, 2011 21:16
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Jimlad posted:ok, I gave that a go. The modem said it was connected, Tomato on the router said it was connected, but nothing worked; I couldn't access anything on the internet and couldn't get to the modem's setup page without wiring to it directly. Did you power cycle both the modem and the router afterwards? Any time you connect a new device directly to a modem you have to do a power cycle on both devices.
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Nov 4, 2011 22:14
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Pogue_Mahone posted:Okay guys, I have finially got Broadband in my new house, rather than using my mobile broadband dongle. It is all working great on my girlfriends laptop, using her wireless card. On my home build desktop however, it's a different story. I am using a wired connection with the integrated Realtek PCIe GBE Family Controller. I couldn't get a connection at all for ages, with Windows 7 not recognising an ethernet cable being connected. I reinstalled the drivers and then it started working, great! 30 minutes later it completely died again. Then whenever I do manage to get Windows to recognise a cable connected, it hangs on identifying network. Also of note is when the cable isn't recognised, the LED on the socket is not on either, despite the cable definately being connected correctly. That sounds like a bad cable. Possibly a bad port on the router or your ethernet device, but I'm betting cable.
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Nov 4, 2011 22:15
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DocCynical posted:Should I just get a new WRT54GS or WRT54GL or get a fancy pants one? Hey buddy, I'm pretty sure the WRT54GL is a recommended router in the OP. OP posted:I don't need the speeds of N, help me find a G only router Is wireless not working at all, or are you able to see the network, and it just doesn't connect?
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Nov 8, 2011 06:39
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Doctor Party posted:Ok so I downloaded that program and ran it. It looks like there are 18 routers available. Mine has 40% signal strength and 20% noise. It is running on the same frequency as 12 others. Keep in mind that unless the channel you picked is 1, 6, or 11 you're still going to get interference, because each channel bleeds into those surrounding it. If you have 5 routers on each channels 1/6/11, and you pick channel 3 because its 'empty', you're actually going to be getting interference from the routers on channel 1 AND channel 6.
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Nov 9, 2011 20:47
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Binary Badger posted:"SpeedBooster" is a term used on Linksys routers that had a certain set of 802.11g Broadcom based chipsets. If your desktop/laptop also used Linksys Broadcom based chipsets intended to be SpeedBooster compatible, they'd work at an effective 125 Mbits/sec using some proprietary compression schemes, depending on whether or not you have a lot of easily compressible data in your stream. The Linksys WRT54GS with Speedboost does have the distinction of having the most RAM of the WRT54g series (32mb of ram, 8mb rom; double what the GL had; why do people pay more for the GL?  )
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Nov 9, 2011 22:53
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For another five hours or so, there's a DD-WRT compatible router on sale for $25 shipped. Dual band router, but you can only run N on one band or the other. (You'd have an N network on 5ghz, but a G network on 2.4ghz). Still, for $25, it seems pretty good to me. http://1saleaday.com/
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Nov 10, 2011 00:43
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Thoom posted:I have a gigabit fiber connection and the Cisco TES301-NA router that Google provided seems to be woefully inadequate for its job. Every day or so it goes completely catatonic and needs to be rebooted. This is probably not a hardware defect, because I exchanged it and the new one does the exact same thing. So I'm in the market for a new wired router. My requirements: Probably a Mikrotik or the like would be good for this. A goon is selling a higher end one here: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3446462 They sell other versions in various price ranges.
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Nov 15, 2011 21:13
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My cable company got rid of my speed class a while back, and has now decided that they're bumping legacy customers either up or down to the new tiers. I enjoyed my current speed, so after half an hour on the phone talking to everybody that would listen, I got them to bump my tier up without charging me the current rate, so I now have an additional 3mbps downlink that I don't really need. I'd like to set up a public wifi for my immediate surrounding neighbors, basically limited to that 3mbps (though I probably will QOS it instead of hard limits). My only requirement is that I want to set up a start page that every new client is redirected to, like they do in most restaurants. I don't need logins or anything, but I do want to be able to create a page that has information (like, "Hey, slackers, this is free wifi provided by Joe Blow, don't mess things up!"), and anything else I want to throw up. Can DD-WRT do this? I'd prefer to have one dedicated router just for this, serving wifi and the webpage with no additional hardware. I'd prefer this setup vs talking to my neighbors because a few houses around me are populated by students that come and go frequently, so new arrivals are very common. EDIT: I'd also like to be able to do this on a WRT-54GL, because its not being used, and I have huge rear end antennas for it. Triikan fucked around with this message at 23:36 on Nov 16, 2011 |
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Nov 16, 2011 23:34
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Chortles posted:As my D-Link DIR-601's apparently died, I'm looking at the EDIMAX BR-6228Ns. Yea or nay at ~$20? The WRT-54GL is actually a reissue of the older models before they humped the memory. It's also still $50, which is ridiculous. Get a modern router for the same price with better specs.
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Nov 17, 2011 10:11
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Agreed posted:Question, since I'm coming from a router that to my knowledge did not offer gigabit, it is logically unlikely for there to be a reduction in performance across my LAN when, e.g., transcoding with PS3MS or PlayOn, right? I am pretty sure I've seen utilization get up to 20mbits with very high quality settings, and with high-quality MKVs more like 50-60mbits... But that's fine, well within specifications, right? The thing you have to realize is, assuming you're using wide band on Wireless N (40mhz), and are getting the full ideal 300mbps, that's not duplex, so its effectively 150mbps each way (definitely oversimplifying, put down the pitchforks), and wired connections are going to have less latency because of how wireless works. The wired connection will be more reliable. If you get acceptable performance over wireless, I wouldn't mess with it, but wired is preferable over wireless with all other things being equal. Remember, if you want gigabit, you can always get a separate switch, and all your wired devices will talk to each other at gigabit speeds. (You wireless devices talking to your gigabit devices will still be limited by the 100mbps connection, though). DD-WRT is great because of the features not common in consumer based routers. On many devices it also makes them much more reliable. I'd say that the reliability of current routers on stock firmwares has come a great way since the mid 00s, so I wouldn't worry about not having DD-WRT unless you start wanting to do things not supported by your firmware. Triikan fucked around with this message at 20:59 on Nov 18, 2011 |
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Nov 18, 2011 20:54
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WastedJoker posted:Thanks but I've settled on this: OMG, I don't want an extra ethernet cable and a single power cable making GBS threads up my house.
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Nov 26, 2011 20:54
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Shaocaholica posted:Why would you want an aftermarket modem over the one they give you? Performance? The difference isn't going to be huge if you're going from standalone modem to standalone modem. If your ISP doesn't charge you a rental fee and provides the modem free of cost, its probably best, at least in my opinion, to keep the provided modem. That way, if anything goes wrong they can't go "Well, your modem's the problem". All-in-one units are typically less reliable than separate modem/router setups, though, so that's why this thread recommends you avoid them.
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Nov 26, 2011 22:51
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DaNzA posted:You sure you couldn't flash that buffalo with DD-WRT which will allow you to change ANYTHING you want? I'm pretty sure he bought an all in one after everybody told him not to. So no ddwrt.
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Nov 29, 2011 11:02
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Nitr0 posted:Any router over 5 years old. Reboot, Reset, Replace. But what about my precious WRT54GLs
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Dec 6, 2011 20:52
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Telex posted:that thing appears to be 10/100 not gigabit. What you're asking for is going to be expensive, and probably only available on something at least in the 'small business' class or maybe a Mikrotik device. Just get a switch. Its even in the OP The loving OP posted:I'm out of ports on my router, why doesn't anybody make an 8 port router. Woe is me A switch does not add any layers, and in normal operation, you won't notice ANY difference than if it was all ports on the same router. In fact, the only difference is better performance for all your wired devices, as a separate switch is probably going to be better switching performance than your typical router (ymmv).
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Dec 17, 2011 03:22
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CrazyB posted:I have a D-link DIR-825 and my cat had a fun time and knocked my router down which caused one of the 2 antennas to break. Now I'm assuming this will cause problems with signal to reach all over my house. Dual antennas don't really help signal that much in a non-MIMO setup. Any signal advantage comes from having the antennas oriented differently, so unless you're having problems I wouldn't worry about it. I've used cheap ebay antennas on various WRT routers with no problems if you do replace the antenna.
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Dec 27, 2011 21:05
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Oaks posted:So I've been using the Airport Extreme Base Station (what a mouthful) as my router at home, and it is loving fantastic, but I've run into a little bit of a hitch. I like to play vidja games with my buds through the internet, but the Base Station requires that the wireless zero config service be running at all times or I will get abruptly disconnected from the network. This doesn't effect anything else I do, but unfortunately zero config causes periodic hiccups in the connection that can get pretty annoying during a competitive game. What are you doing that would cause WZC to give you problems? WZC is just the XP wireless service. What do you expect to use if you're not using it? If you don't want to use it, upgrade to 7. Basically, my problem with understanding your post is this: "I'm using wireless, but my wireless is causing periodic hiccups on my game, so I want to disable my wireless." WZC is what your computer is using to connect to the router. Triikan fucked around with this message at 01:14 on Jan 3, 2012 |
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Jan 3, 2012 01:12
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mik posted:This might be unanswerable, but... Your ISP's equipment will most likely not lose power. Most power outages are at the pole level, and your internet infrastructure is a bit higher level than that, and will be on a UPS at the least, and maybe a generator, depending on the setup. Of course, if somebody hits a power pole and your cable or phone line is knocked out as well, you'll lose both. I've had a couple power outages and my internet stayed up. Triikan fucked around with this message at 01:38 on Jan 3, 2012 |
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Jan 3, 2012 01:36
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Oaks posted:Well, usually I can just disable wireless zero configuration after I've connected to whatever wireless network I want to be on. WZC is not necessary to maintain wireless connections with most networks, only to initially connect to them. The AEBS is the first router I've encountered that actually requires the service be always on. I agree it sounds like there's probably no simple workaround, but I wanted to make sure there wasn't something I was overlooking. But, why would you want to disable the program that handles wifi on windows? What 'problems' are you having that are being caused by WZC? Doesn't make any sense.
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Jan 3, 2012 02:02
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kode54 posted:Isn't Atheros hardware higher quality than Broadcom crap, and also supported by at least OpenWrt? Not like that applies in this case, though. I don't know whether Atheros or Broadcom "crap" is better than the other, but boadcom chipsets have better aftermarket support than Atheros, probably owing to the original WRT54g being broadcom based.
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Jan 4, 2012 22:38
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Dave Mustard posted:I am running Windows 7. Do a 30/30/30 reset. Here's a step by step. 1. Unplug your modem. 2. Press and hold the reset button, count to 30 seconds 3. Still holding the reset button, unplug router's power cord, count to 30 seconds 4. Still holding the reset button, plug the power cord back into the router, count to 30 seconds. 5. Let go of the reset button 6. Plug modem back in.
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Jan 9, 2012 23:59
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Kaepora Gaebora posted:Exactly what I'm going for (Though I have an extra 24 port 10/100 switch with a gigabit uplink I may hook up to all my "cold" ports, that's really only ever going to be used if I host another LAN).
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Jan 11, 2012 01:28
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psydude posted:I'm getting loving tired of weird wireless poo poo with my gaming rig located in my upstairs mancave, so I've decided to run copper to it from my router. Just ordered a run of the mill 8 port FE trendnet switch for my house. Why only FE? Because I don't plan on trunking 100 users with a router on a stick; gently caress you. We're happy for you.
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Jan 13, 2012 02:51
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Feenix posted:Interesting. That one mentions a newer model of that line with a link to it. I may go that route. (only a tenner difference. $) For Motorola modems, the last number only indicates a hardware revision. They're mostly identical, but Motorola found a better deal on part Y over Part X, so the 6120 uses part X, but 6121 uses the cheaper part Y.
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Jan 23, 2012 23:38
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Jonny 290 posted:Moreover, if you DO use a crossover cable, and it's not a gig crossover cable, you'll fall back to 100mbps. This bit me a time or two. If both devices are gigabit, you shouldn't even need a crossover cable, as they should auto-negotiate the connection.
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Feb 2, 2012 21:29
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Smegmalicious posted:Is there an advantage to using the Linksys E2500 over the older E2000. And at that point might it just be better to use the E3000 since it's only a few bucks more? I can't give you firsthand knowledge, but looking at the specs it looks like the e2500 is actually lower end spec-wise than the e2000. E2000 has gigabit and a higher clock speed processor. If you get the E3000, Newegg has it for cheaper ($80 shipped, or if you don't mind getting a refurb, $60 shipped.)
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Feb 20, 2012 23:45
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Whenever you change the device connected to a cable modem, you must reboot the cable modem. The cable modem is giving a connection to the device based on MAC address, and you can't simply expect it to start sending data to a new mac address without resetting it first. This applies to hooking up a computer or switching routers.
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Mar 11, 2012 01:38
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AceSnyp3r posted:I've got my router to a point through trying different Tomato builds that now it'll finally keep a wireless connection up without crashing every few hours. Having another minor issue though, my ping times seem pretty wonky. Pinging yahoo.com gives me a minimum of 33ms, a maximum of 531 ms, and an average of 311ms. Pinging yahoo.com from a wired connection to the router gives me a pretty consistent ping of around 28ms, with a maximum of maybe 50ms or so. Pinging Google is pretty much the same story. Pinging 192.168.1.1 from wireless yields consistent <10ms times. I'd say its likely you're getting high pings due to the congestion. Try switching to another channel, or move to a 5ghz router.
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Mar 12, 2012 00:41
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WYA posted:I've been using a VPN tunnel service recently and I've been noticing that my upload speeds triple when I use it meanwhile my download speed is halved. Despite this my torrent downloads increase by a lot. Is the VPN tunnel somehow bypassing my ISPs pipeline restrictions? Bit torrent speeds go to poo poo when your upload gets capped out. If you manually set your upload speed to slightly less than your maximum, it should help your download speeds.
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Apr 16, 2012 04:38
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Cockwhore posted:OpenVPN question: What operating system is your server running? If I remember correctly I had to go into my Windows Server 2k8 install and tell it to accept connections from a VPN. Not sure how it knew it wasn't a local connection, though.
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Apr 17, 2012 22:40
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So in exchange for setting my uncle's network up he gave me the router he originally intended on using, a WNR2000-100NAS. Without opening the box, is there any way of telling if it is V1, 2, or 3? I know with linksys routers you can tell by serial number but I can't find a list for this router. EDIT: Don't want to open it in case its a v3 and not supported by third party firmwares. In that case, its getting thrown on eBay. EDIT2: Just like always, I find the answer myself immediately after giving up and asking for help. It's a v1, supported by OpenWRT but not DD-WRT. Good enough for me. Triikan fucked around with this message at 18:55 on Apr 22, 2012 |
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Apr 22, 2012 18:51
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Zeo posted:Ok so I bought a WRT400N as I plan on moving out soon. While I'm at home though I wanted to set it up as a WAP in my room (and switch). I had it working for some time, but now it's decided not to work and I can't figure out what it is that changed. Is it wired or wirelessly connected to the wrt54g? Turn off DHCP on your WRT400N, and bridge the networks.
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May 15, 2012 20:44
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