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I abruptly had my wifi performance go to poo poo about 2 weeks ago, and I've been working to diagnose it without any luck so far. After trying all sorts of fixes, it might just be that my ASUS RT-N16 is failing or the 2.4GHz spectrum is just too crowded. I was looking at a Mikrotik routerboard to replace it, but I would like 5GHz because our wifi going horrible corresponded with a new neighbor moving into the house behind us, and I think they frequently have a baby monitor running. I'm having a hard time choosing between a more technically complex, but more robust and heavily features solution like a Mikrotik Routerboard, a flagship non-apple dual band router like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BR3ZYIW, and an airport extreme. What's the upside of the Airport Extreme over the others?
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Jul 26, 2014 02:13
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jromano posted:Comcast 105 Move to 5GHz wifi. I did it and went from barely usable 1MBit unstable connection over wifi to seing 110mbit from across the house.
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Aug 26, 2014 23:00
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Boring posted:I just bought my first house and have my pc in an upstairs room, it was previously wired but now i've put in an old 300Mbps pci adapter into it since wife won't let me string a cable up the stairs. Buy an Intel Wifi card if you want good wireless performance. Lots of wifi chipsets are terrible!
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Oct 15, 2014 23:27
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Zeitgueist posted:Is there really anything that takes advantage of that kind of pipe at all? Time Warner offers 300mbs in my area and I can't imagine what would use that. It's very liberating to not have to worry about keeping modern video games locally. Many AAA games are 50GB or a bit more now and it's nice to be able to re-download that very quickly whenever you want to play something you don't have installed locally. Games are what most frequently saturates my 105mbit connection. I'm much more frequently limited by upload. Now that it's so cheap and easy to make video content, lots of people are streaming games and uploading highlights to youtube, and uploading something to Youtube with any semblance of quality still takes forever on most connections. My internet options where I am are 10/10, 25/10, 50/10, and 105/10. No matter what you get 10mbit upload.
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Nov 18, 2014 16:30
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Gwyrgyn Blood posted:Looks like I've got Blast! Internet Service as best I can tell. Their speed test shows I'm getting around 33Mbps and it sounds like Blast caps out around 100? Guess I might be hitting the modem's cap then and I could stand to upgrade? What's a good modem to pick up that will support DOCSIS 3 then? You should probably buy a Motorola SurfBoard SB6141. You can get the SB6121, but then you'll be in this same situation when you're paying for 300MBit internet and only getting 180 in a couple years.
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Nov 20, 2014 17:11
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My brother in law just moved into a new house, and the fastest internet he can get at any price is 18Mbit. He lives 2.6 miles away and we can get line of sight to my house, where I get 105mbit Comcast for $35. Would we be insane to try to use cheapo UBNT wireless backhaul to connect our two houses, and supplement his slow internet with a line from my house? This sounds like a fun thing to set up, we're not afraid to buy flagpoles if we have to mount the dishes somewhere really high, and I'd be willing to dedicate about $400 to this science project, including getting a router that can support 2 WAN connections if needed. Which one of these should I be looking at, or some other hardware entirely? The ultimate goal would be 50+mbit over a 2.6 mile connection in a flat, flat city (Houston). http://www.ubnt.com/airmax/nanobridgem/
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Jan 16, 2015 21:30
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PUBLIC TOILET posted:Exactly. Comedic forums arguing aside, I second the recommendation of MikroTik and/or Ubiquiti for home use. They often perform better than the consumer-grade hardware for home that's commonly recommended here. That is if you're not too overwhelmed with the possibility of having to do in-depth configuration (MikroTik via Winbox or Ubiquiti via their CLI if it can't be done via the web GUI.) I've personally been installing MikroTik routers for people, one of which is running a home business and also catering to their kids' multiple WiFi devices within the home. I've heard that MikroTik stuff is really slow. I'm no expert, but with >100mbit home connections getting extremely cheap in my area routing performance actually matters. Can a cheap MikroTik routerboard actually route 300mbit? What about gigabit?
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Aug 11, 2015 21:34
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Antillie posted:In the case of TWC the 6121 is all you need if you only want the 50mbps tier. The 100mbps tier does need the 6141 though. Needs and budget and all that. Can I hear a little more about this? I got 115mbps consistently over a 6121 with no issues for a year, but I've dropped back down to 50 because the promo expired.
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Sep 1, 2015 17:32
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Antillie posted:Just going by what it says on TWC approved modem list. Other ISPs may be different. Never thought about that, I live in a Comcast monopoly zone and am fortunate enough to be in an area where I'm not sharing my cable line with many people. I always got 115 mbps on the 105 advertised plan and 61mbps on the 50 advertised. More channels probably matters in a crowded area.
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Sep 1, 2015 17:45
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Bishyaler posted:Here's a review on the new APs by Ubiquiti. Why not an EdgeRouter Lite instead of an X? It looks like the X is all software, while the Lite has much better routing performance and actually 3 routable ports instead of just LAN, WAN and a switch.
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Oct 29, 2015 01:00
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Antillie posted:As they mention in that post the EdgerouterX is built on switching hardware (so yes it does routing in software). So when you bridge two or more ports and use it as a switch you get actual wire speed switching. I can only think of a couple of other enterprise grade routing devices that can do that for less than $5000. Awesome. Thanks to you and Bishyaler for great info on what's going on. I'm not on gigabit internet yet so it's moot, but at least an ERX looks to be able to saturate 300/300 with big packets.
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Oct 29, 2015 04:17
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I saw a pretty surprising to me wireless interaction when a passenger was uploading a decent sized file while another phone was playing a podcast via bluetooth. Even though the podcast was saved on the device, not streaming, whatever wireless activity the file upload was doing was able to disrupt the bluetooth playback. Also it's pretty crazy that it's no big deal to be using a phone as a hotspot, connected to VPN, getting more than 20mbit up and down while hurtling down the freeway at 75mph.
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Sep 30, 2016 22:34
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all rear end no class posted:Word of warning, ERL-3, ERPoE-5, and ERPro-8 can do wire-rate routing port-to-port, but they can't do QoS, traffic shaping or other packet-analysis at that speed. Basically if you're doing vanilla stuff then you're fine because the Edgerouter has hardware acceleration for those functions: routing, basic NAT, basic firewall. But if you start doing things outside of that hardware acceleration (packet inspection, traffic shaping, etc) then the performance drops down to below 300mbps. What's the answer then? Right back to pfsense on an x86 box?
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Oct 15, 2016 02:00
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I'd also note that how they measure traffic can differ from you measuring at your router. Be careful if you're trying to run right to the limit, guys.
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Oct 20, 2016 17:05
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EconOutlines posted:Any way you can be more specific about that? I thought if you were measuring WAN-only traffic and not anything internal, it should be accurate, no? http://arstechnica.com/business/2015/12/comcast-admits-data-cap-meter-blunder-charges-wrong-customer-for-overage/ At the very least, they've got customer info swapped sometimes, so if you notice that your usage doesn't match up you can go hog wild because somebody else will be billed for the overage. I've also seen reports that DOS traffic that gets filtered before it ever hits your router counts against your bandwidth cap.
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Oct 20, 2016 21:58
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I could ask this in the Linux thread, Raspberry Pi thread, or here, but what I'd really like is a way to make UDP multicast not suck over wifi, so I'll ask here first. I'm turning a Raspi 2 into a little audio monitor, and the simple straightforward way I'd like to do it is having ffmpeg take USB microphone input, transcode to mp3, and push it out to a multicast IP via RTP. I've done this, and it somewhat works but the packet loss is horrible. This works well if I actually do UDP unicast by pushing it to a single IP rather than multicast, but that somewhat defeats my goals. The only other good solution I see involves adding some sort of http streaming server to the stack like icecast2 or nginx with a rtmp module, but that's going to be a whole other thing to configure, another service to write, and more stress on the RPi's teeny little CPU. I could also run an http streaming server on another machine, but that's even more complexity.
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Dec 25, 2016 02:41
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ExcessBLarg! posted:There isn't an easy answer here. As you've noted there's a lot of packet loss on 802.11, so much so that non-TCP-based protocols are almost useless. Thank you so much! I was originally trying to use Opus, but my proof of concept was using VLC to receive and VLC hates opus over RTP for some reason, even with an SDP file. Apparently any other client but VLC would work, but I hadn't even considered that VLC would be insufficient. The whole thing has fallen apart on me because my source (Raspberry Pi 2) with it's lovely wifi adapter (Wi-Pi) can only upload about 150kbps from the location where I want to run it... which isn't enough to make icecast happy.
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Dec 31, 2016 00:08
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BiohazrD posted:Why even bother? What cable company is offering more than 100-150Mbps? Gigabit cable is a thing that you'll be able to purchase in several markets in 2017, and probably many / most major metro markets in 2018. The future is now! Hell, on Comcast right now I'm getting 200 down on a cheap $50/mo normal plan in an area without any spiffy new tech rollouts.
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Jan 5, 2017 21:17
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For the same price I'm paying, I've had my Comcast go from 25mbit, 50mbit, 105mbit, 150mbit, 200mbit down over the last 4 years. In every single case my upload was 10mbit though! I'd actually be willing to pay more money for a 50/50 plan.
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Jan 6, 2017 16:54
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H2SO4 posted:That's very weird. Those speeds all have higher upload than 10Mbit in GA and FL. Here's the speed options I have available to me. It looks like the 25/10 and 50/10 have been replaced with 75/10. 
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Jan 6, 2017 21:08
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GobiasIndustries posted:Unfortunately the guest network feature doesn't come w/ it's own dhcp settings, it's all or nothing. I don't mind messing around with the pi though, it'll be a learning experience and worst case scenario I can move it back to the C7. Awesome! Pis would be such great little network appliances if they didn't like to corrupt SD cards so much. I just recently learned that you could network boot RPi 3s which could sidestep the whole SD card issue.
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Jan 9, 2017 15:34
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Sab669 posted:I know this is the home networking thread but I'm not sure where else to post this. Ha, what a lovely decision. Minifiers are a cheap and easy part of any js packaging process. Are you not hosting this on a cloud service? From any cloud vendor, you're paying about ~.10c/GB ballpark for network transfer, less if you're using a CDN correctly. Don't worry about the cost side of you delivering this stuff, think about subjecting your poor users to a 12MB download before your webapp is usable. That's awful, especially over slow connections.
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Apr 12, 2017 18:07
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CrazyLittle posted:1gigabit ethernet is faster than most hard drives' ability to read/write data. You don't need 10gig. This isn't really true anymore either. My garbage quality $100 external 5TB drive can read/write >150MB/s over USB, decent WD / Seagate 5400RPM NAS drives read at ~180MB/s, and 7200RPM drives are even faster. In a RAID 5, 6 or 10 NAS you can see ~400MB/s read speeds, in which case moving from 1 gigabit to 10 gigabit can more than triple your speed. I'm seeing a case for the Edgeswitch in home networks as a luxury buy, not as a necessity but I'm sure considering one myself.
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Apr 16, 2017 19:59
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n0tqu1tesane posted:Why not? Multicast routing is a very real thing. In networks with wireless clients, I have given up entirely on multicast. It's just not a good fit for current technologies, and on top of that networks are usually fast enough that you can just do fan-out unicast because it's not like anything is hurting for CPU time or internal network bandwidth.
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Apr 18, 2017 21:04
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Wacky Delly posted:If I need a router with more than 5 ports, what's the recommendation? The 8-port Edgerouter (non X) or something else? Get a decent switch, and connect it to your router. If you really need a router with 8 routable ports for your home setup, please post wtf you're doing. I'm not using VLANs so I just have a $40 unmanaged 8 port switch connected to my router. If you like UBNT stuff and want to stay all Ubiquiti, they've just released an 8 port $100 switch: https://store.ubnt.com/collections/routing-switching/products/unifi-switch-8-beta
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May 9, 2017 22:02
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Wacky Delly posted:I'm gettin fiber installed at my office, 3 cat 5 drops for the offices and front desk, a wifi AP and then the printers. I guess my concern was putting the two office connections on a switch. I'm not anticipating having more than one device in them at the moment, but plan on adding networked printers to them at some point in the future (where I'd just put a switch in each office.) Do you want the Wifi and Printers on different VLANs than everything else? How would you like to architect this network?
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May 9, 2017 22:14
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I'm getting pretty frustrated trying to keep connections alive through my newly-installed AT&T gigabit fiber. Every 10 minutes, I lose all active SSH connections, VOIP, whatever else is running for a couple seconds. https://forums.att.com/t5/AT-T-Internet-Equipment/Pace-5268AC-DMZPlus-Issue-drops-lan-every-10-minutes/td-p/4843792 It looks like when you have something in DMZ mode:
I've found other people complaining of the same symptoms, does anyone here have suggestions of other possible workarounds? https://community.ubnt.com/t5/EdgeMAX/Diagnosing-U-Verse-Issue-How-to-allow-DHCP-through-Edge-firewall/td-p/1673267 Edit: People have also gotten it fixed by getting AT&T to replace their new shiny Pace gateway with the years-old Arris version that will be going out of support soon.
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Jun 2, 2017 20:07
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How much would I regret doing an exterior cat5e run along my siding? I want to do a single point to point ethernet drop along a single outside wall, and I have no attic because my house has a flat roof. It looks like exterior cable runs are considered hack work and I'm wondering if it's worth finding some alternative way to do it like in the crawlspace, even though I'm going from 2nd floor to 2nd floor.
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Jun 15, 2017 22:13
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What does PFSense or one of the BSDs do so well that Vyatta or EdgeOS doesn't? I thought they were most similar than different, is it really just about having tons of CPU power so you can route at line speed without hardware offload?
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Jun 27, 2017 14:10
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SSJ_naruto_2003 posted:Is $50 the minimum you have to spend for a decent card? I can deal with lower throughput like videos being slightly slower to upload if it's a little cheaper. Are any of the options around 30 bucks any good? The cheaper wifi cards are pretty unstable. If you really want to pinch pennies, you can buy a PCI-E to M.2 or mini-PCI-E adapter card and buy one of the standalone Intel Wifi cards, which are usually around $20: https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Wireless-AC-802-11ac-Wi-Fi-Bluetooth/dp/B00STV5UKW/ The desktop bundle is just a bundle of that + antenna + PCI-E to mini-PCI-E adapter anyway.
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Jul 31, 2017 18:40
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I could really use a hand with my terrible home network. I just moved, and have been fighting terrible wifi in the new house. I have some knowledge, but it's out of date. In previous houses I owned my own cable modem, put the router and modem at one corner of the house, and a 2nd WAP connected by ethernet lines in the house at the other corner of the house on non-overlapping bands, and everything worked pretty well. I've got about wireless 15 client devices total, mostly non-Apple. Short story: AT&T technician tells me that my current networking issues are caused by me changing the SSID / password, and that I should run both 2.4 and 5ghz networks as the same SSID and not change the default password. Is this accurate? If not, why the hell are they telling this to customers! I'm going to try following his advice even though I don't understand it and think it's dumb, because I'm at my wit's end and stuck in a contract with them anyway. Long story: I moved somewhere without cable available, and have AT&T UVerse Fiber as about my only option. They gave me a Pace 5268ac router, which functions as both modem and router, and after a ton of reading online I've concluded that I cannot bypass this thing, also it's not capable of gigabit routing. Rather than put the Archer C7 that I used previously as a router, or Netgear R6250 I was using as a WAP behind it, I decided just to try and use what AT&T gave me. I configured it like I had previous WAPs: 2.4 and 5ghz networks on different SSIDs, 2.4 pinned to channel 1 or 11, whichever was less crowded when I scanned, 2.4ghz set to 20mhz bandwidth, 5ghz set to 40mhz bandwidth. My experience has been horrible. This house isn't wired with cat5, so I've got stuff wireless now that was perviously wired (TV, XBone, etc). 2.4GHz is too crowded to use in the area, and the 5ghz range is awful. Connections get dropped, pings are high, and it's just generally flaky to use. I even bought an AV2000 powerline kit and put the Archer C7 running in WAP mode at the other end of the house.... but the AV2000 kit could only sustain ~40mbps, so best case on wifi from the 2nd WAP was 20-30mbps, usually it was lower. I had a full-day outage yesterday where any devices connecting to the wifi would get redirected to a "gateway authentication failure" that told me to call AT&T, so I did, and their diagnostic results caused them to send a tech out, who factory reset the router and told me that my outage and awful experience was due to changing the SSID and password, and I shouldn't do that. My current status after the reset is that things in the same room as the router see insane speeds (over 300mbit), probably due to the 80mhz default channel bandwidth. Everything more than 6 feet from the router is getting band-steered to 2.4ghz, and speedtests under 5mbps, as in the attached picture. Any suggestions? Do I just need to wait out my year with AT&T, and then hope that Google Fiber or Comcast comes to the area and I have the option to pay for 200/20 that works instead of 1000/1000 that doesn't? Edit: I'm also curious if current best practice is still to have separate SSIDs for 2.4 and 5, and run the smaller channel bandwidths to avoid interference. Twerk from Home fucked around with this message at 00:44 on Jan 21, 2018 |
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Jan 21, 2018 00:40
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CrazyLittle posted:This actually IS within the realm of possibility - Yeah, making changes in the Pace menus can actually break poo poo sometimes. The menu systems are really really bad. But of course you can just factory reset and redo your settings at any time. Thanks. I really appreciate this, and may just end up having to factory reset the Pace thing occasionally. My setup isn't that complex, I've just got a couple of ports forwarded to a home server running on a static internal IP. Given that I'm in a 2-story house with no attic or basement, I'm going to call a low-voltage guy to see how much it would be to pull some Cat6 and distribute WAPs.
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Jan 21, 2018 18:21
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skipdogg posted:Start with the basics. If you can pull good speeds wired to the gateway, you know that piece is working fine. Wireless is a bitch to troubleshoot though. What's the house like? Newer construction or older? The house was built in 2017, and is two-story without an attic or basement. If I can do it well and paint it to match the baseboards, I might be able to run one point to point ethernet cable just inside the house along the baseboard and down the stairs that would solve the worst of my problems. I'm disappointed to hear that my wifi woes seem to be unique to my situation and not characteristic of the 5268ac. I'm going to keep working to fix this, because it's been really disappointing for the couple months I've been here.
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Jan 22, 2018 21:26
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Rakeris posted:What about using powerline adapters? I've got an AV2000 kit that has a really hard time doing any better than 50mbps, and usually does lower. I've tested it with a variety of devices on both ends and just think that the circuit jump is hard for it. Almost all the circuits in this house have AFCI, which I know can mess with transmission, and it's also having to jump from a breaker panel to a subpanel in order to get from one floor to another. I feel like I've got a lot of small things that add up to a tough-to-cover house. It's also really long and skinny, and my neighbors house walls are 6 feet from my walls and they have lots of WAPs too.
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Jan 22, 2018 21:44
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What's a good transmit power to set a secondary WAP that I only want devices in one room to connect to? 40? 30? Thanks for all the free help you guys have been giving me.
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Jan 23, 2018 00:20
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Boner Wad posted:Does anyone have a thoughts around a cellular modem for backup internet? I'm considering purchasing one, I'm adding more and more safety and secure devices that, without internet, will not work. I try to reduce these but alas, I do have enough now to at least consider it. Depending on how critical your home network is, I'm personally comfortable with just having smartphones around to tether. I wouldn't fuss with a dedicated cell modem unless you have a lot of outages or really need to keep your network up.
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Jan 25, 2018 20:16
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Kaboobi posted:A Nanostation locoM2 seems overkill for a distance of only about 60 feet, I'm thinking that the Unifi Mesh APs may be ideal. Has anyone used them/can vouch for the range of them? I am trying to solve an overwhelmingly similar problem over a distance of about 50 feet, and was considering having a nanostation in client mode in the far building connected to an AP to provide wifi to the far building. The nanostation would just subscribe to the main house's internal wifi network. Basically a 2-radio extender.
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Feb 1, 2018 22:36
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redeyes posted:Yep plug a Unifi AP into the other end. I think you probably can just hook an AP to the other end of the PoE cable but I am not %100 sure. Either way a 8 port gigabit switch is $20 bux. Id get the switch for future expansion. 8 port PoE switch is more, and if you go without PoE you'd need 2 injectors, right? Nanostation acs don't even come with an injector.
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Feb 2, 2018 23:21
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Odette posted:So what kind of router would give full gigabit throughput with pfsense? I assume something like a QOTOM fanless PC with an i7-4500U & 4 I211-AT should be OK? Do you mean just simple NAT routing, or do you mean deep packet inspection and IPSEC and other CPU-heavy things? Any modern core-based x86 CPU can handle full gigabit routing in most situations. pfsense routers are massively overpowered for home usage.
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Feb 12, 2018 16:25
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Harveygod posted:It is the wifi AP. I mean that the (visible) coaxial input on the router isn't being used. There's a "Network Interface Device" that seems to perform the gateway function (wire from street goes in, ethernet comes out If this operates anything like AT&T's common fiber gateway setup, then there may be some type of hardware key inside of the Verizon router that means no other device will be able to function in that role. If you're on FIOS, that thing on the wall is a fiber modem, but they may not do authentication in the fiber modem. If their router is doing authentication, then you can't just plug another router into that fiber modem and have it work.
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Feb 19, 2018 17:21
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).