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What's the current hot poo poo router that will run dd-wrt w/ hardware nat? Just got FTTH installed and was disappointed to see my R7000 cap out at 300mb wired.
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Nov 8, 2015 06:20
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Prescription Combs posted:Probably try flashing the factory firmware. I don't think DD-WRT has the closed source drivers for hardware NAT. That router ranks #1 on smallnetbuilder.com for WAN to LAN NAT performance... I know the factory firmware is faster, I'm asking specifically about dd-wrt. Unless there's a router out there that will do openVPN and policy NAT with its factory firmware. e: even a wired-only router would work, i can use a separate AP. ee: wow, these look pretty loving cool, and cheap: https://www.ubnt.com/edgemax/edgerouter-x/ anyone used one? CheddarGoblin fucked around with this message at 19:32 on Nov 8, 2015 |
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Nov 8, 2015 19:24
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Prescription Combs posted:If you're just going to use a wired-only router for NAT/Policy NAT/OpenVPN then the lite is the better choice. Very cool. Going to order one and try it, thanks. Dd-wrt is janky as hell anyways and I'll be glad to ditch it.
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Nov 8, 2015 19:52
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calandryll posted:Router and APs would be in different portions of the house. Router will be located in the basement, while APs will be on the first and second stories, one on each side of the house. I'll have easy access to the ceilings in each room via the attic. Unfortunately, no plugs in the attic for the injectors. That's the whole point of the injectors. They go where the switch is, not where the AP is.
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Nov 9, 2015 17:06
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I don't suppose anyone in here is familiar with carrier level fiber-to-the-home stuff, specifically Calix? I have an 854G-1 router from my ISP and when I call them they simply can't enable bridge mode on it. They say they're looking all through the config and they don't see it as an option, then eventually come back and say "yeah i guess it's just not possible on these". But what's funny is that *I* can turn on bridge mode no problem, through the support login which I was able to find after some googling. When I log in as the support user I get a whole other menu of poo poo that I'm sure was not intended for end users. Anyway I can go into service WAN VLANs and change the service type from routed to bridged, and select which ethernet ports I want on the bridge. It works great.... until I reboot, then everything in that menu gets reset. I assume because it's downloading those settings at each boot (the normal settings like dhcp and port forwarding crap do stay between reboots). I'm sure it's possible for them to change it, they either just don't have it setup for the support guys to be able to do it (although they can do it on all of their cable modems and other fiber gear, just not the Calix stuff) or the support guys simply don't know where to look. They're really candid with me so I if told them where to find it they would probably try for me. But documentation is pretty scarce. It's a long shot I know, but maybe someone here works for a provider that runs calix?
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Nov 10, 2015 06:20
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37th Chamber posted:I've never used Calix gear, but it sounds like you're only changing running config and not saving the changes to the config file Yeah I tried that. There is a 'save' command in the CLI but it doesn't save that stuff. it's definitely downloading those settings from the headend at boot. They've got to change it in some sort of service provisioning tool I'm thinking. I'm bummed because this EdgeRouter is bad rear end and I was looking forward to doing cool poo poo with it, but I'm not dealing with double-natted bullshit so I guess I'm just going to return it. I'll try calling Grande again in a few months and maybe they'll have it figured out by then. It sucks, but not enough for me to go back to cable. 1g up/down for 50 bucks a month is insane. e: goddammit this loving thing doesn't do hairpin nat either. This is gonna suck more than i thought. CheddarGoblin fucked around with this message at 01:26 on Nov 11, 2015 |
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Nov 11, 2015 00:03
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That article is only testing HTTP. Latency can have huge impacts (or no impact at all) on throughput depending on the transfer protocol. If this is something your company does regularly it may be worth investing in a high speed transfer system like Aspera faspex.
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Dec 11, 2015 17:56
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Ihmemies posted:It took me 6 hours to do a basic Edgerouter Lite setup because I have no idea. I'd recommend anyone getting an Edgerouter to upgrade the firmware first thing before setting anything up. If you're a total networking noob it won't make it that much easier, but the web interface is much better in the latest release, particularly with regard to port forwarding.
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Jan 23, 2016 00:54
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Ynglaur posted:Someone recommend me a small rack I could store a router, switch, and maybe a Raspberry Pi or some other server-on-a-stick flavor. I don't want something huge: it's going in a home office. For that amount of stuff you could use one of these in-wall boxes and take up literally no space at all. In mine I crammed a fiber bridge, edgerouter lite, POE switch, 650va UPS, and a raspberry pi. I got the vented door, it's pretty much flush with the wall with the door closed. They also make patch panels that snap in but I opted not to use them.   e: this is assuming you own your home and have a non-insulated wall in your closet to work with. CheddarGoblin fucked around with this message at 01:26 on Jan 23, 2016 |
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Jan 23, 2016 01:09
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BonoMan posted:
You are double-NATing, don't do this. Put the comcast router into bridge mode, or if that isnt possible, have them replace it with an actual bridge.
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Feb 9, 2016 18:11
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BonoMan posted:I'll see if I can do that! For the record, I didn't set this up. Some IT consultant did. Our internet was going down twice a day every day (when everyone settled in for work and when everyone got back from lunch). He determined that our setup was sending all traffic through our Comcast box, even internal traffic and it was getting overloaded. So he setup the PFSense box inbetween to only dictate traffic to the comcast box that needed to go that way. That kinda stuff is beyond me. Yeah it sounds like you guys are using the external IP addresses for everything internally, sometimes called "hairpin NAT" or "loopback NAT" on the router, and it may have been filling up the translation table on the comcast router. So he moved that duty to the pfsense box which can handle more, but it further complicates your network because he left NAT enabled on the comcast box. Ideally you should be using the internal addresses when you're inside the network. But in either case you should definitely be running only one NAT device. e: just to be clear, when you put the comcast modem into bridge mode, you will then have to assign your real Internet IP to the pfsense's outside interface instead of the 10.1.11.11 address (that network will go away). So make sure you have the correct IP, subnet & gateway information from the ISP first. CheddarGoblin fucked around with this message at 19:46 on Feb 9, 2016 |
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Feb 9, 2016 19:42
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ukle posted:Need some advice. We are trying to find an AP that meets our needs, kind of default reaction was to get the latest Ubiquiti AP's, but not sure they are the best fit. As someone who's responsible for a wifi network in a castle: you really want one in every room.
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Mar 1, 2016 18:54
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CrazyLittle posted:Doogie Houser wants to know more. Probably not as exciting as it sounds. You can google 'pemberton castle' for the full rundown but basically it's an old cistern from the 1800's that was converted into a castle in the 20's, I think. Currently owned and lived in by Robert Rodriguez. I just replaced the Meraki AP's there with Ubiquiti AC-Pro's last week (8 in total)
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Mar 1, 2016 21:44
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kri kri posted:Thanks for that, looks like just what I needed. I tried it and I couldn't get the openvpn service to load, in my custom config on the router do I just put: Looks like it wants bytes per second (which is really loving weird) so that would be 375000. edit: and in a config file you don't need the -, so it would just be "shaper 375000" i believe. CheddarGoblin fucked around with this message at 20:01 on Mar 2, 2016 |
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Mar 2, 2016 19:58
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Shifty Pony posted:This is probably outside of the scope of this thread but.... If you can run the cable yourself it's not very expensive to have someone come out and terminate the ends. I can even give you the name of a company in Austin that's done it for us before.
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Mar 21, 2016 18:42
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Shifty Pony posted:I'll call around to networking groups in their area to see their termination rates but I expect a custom pre terminated in the warehouse spool will be cheaper than paying someone to drive an hour out to rural bumfuck to do it. Ah, well long drive aside, it cost us less than $200 for someone to come out and put a handful of LC connectors on for us. Hell, the guy that installed my Grande fiber at home terminated a singlemode fiber with hand tools. I get the feeling it's not that complicated, you can probably buy the tools and learn how to do it cheaper than anything else.
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Mar 22, 2016 17:35
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Antillie posted:I would avoid the AC-AP-LRs. They aren't really designed for typical wifi clients like laptops and phones. In fact their high transmit power can prevent client devices from roaming properly. Stick to the Lites or Pros. This isn't true. Per Ubiquiti's own documentation, the radio in the Lite is hardly any more powerful than the Pro. (24 vs 22dbm on 2.4ghz. 5ghz is the same on both) The "long range" stamp is due to the antenna design, which they claim improves both transmit and receive signal strength, even on 'normal' devices.
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Mar 23, 2016 18:12
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Antillie posted:Maybe its better now? I don't recommend the LR because I can't really attest to its reliability in a typical home setting. Maybe, I mean, their marketing specifically addresses this. On the page for the LR:  You may be right about not being good for a home setting, but we have 1 at work intermixed with 8 Pro's and have seen no issues. edit: Actually, gently caress I completely forgot we have 3 AC-LR's installed in a big house. They work great. No issues roaming between them, used regularly by 5-6 people. They aren't the type to be silent about issues either, if it wasn't working well I'd have heard about it. I can't attest to the real world range difference between them and the Pro/Lite, though. My hunch is that they could all be lite's or pro's at this site and it would still work fine. I was just playing it safe by getting the LR's due to the size of the house. CheddarGoblin fucked around with this message at 18:37 on Mar 23, 2016 |
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Mar 23, 2016 18:25
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Rakthar posted:
I think you're confusing GFCI and AFCI. GFCI outlets are the ones that have have the test/reset buttons usually in bathrooms and kitches. AFCI circuits will have regular outlets, the buttons are on the breaker.
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Apr 6, 2016 18:03
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Rakthar posted:You're right, I thought GFCI outlets were AFCI, hurf durf. I don't know but my house (built 2012) had them almost everywhere and I've since had to replace most of them with regular breakers because they made my outlets completely unusable. I couldn't vacuum or use any kind of power tool. The breakers tripped if you looked at them wrong. I'm not sure if that's common or mine were just particularly lovely.
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Apr 6, 2016 18:17
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Eletriarnation posted:The pins that are used to carry power for PoE aren't used for anything else in a typical Gigabit Ethernet connection, Yes they are, actually. Gigabit ethernet uses all 4 wire pairs unlike 100base-T which only uses two. He's still probably fine, though.
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Jul 14, 2016 16:50
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Deviant posted:My only remaining question is why would I get slower Internet speed tests at 2.4Ghz vs 5Ghz? Erm, because 5g is considerably faster than 2.4g?
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Aug 10, 2016 16:23
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Deviant posted:But my negotiated link speed (620mbps on 5ghz vs 175mbs) on the two is well above the speedtest results, so it shouldn't be bottlenecking? 1) you'll never hit that negotiated link speed 2) your 5ghz is running a different standard, 802.11ac vs. 802.11n - AC is much faster. 3) in general, higher RF frequency = more bandwidth to work with. it doesn't have 'better signal' over shorter distances, but 5ghz does not penetrate walls and other objects as easily as 2.4 (which is both a good and a bad thing, depending on the scenario) 4) always use 5ghz when you can
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Aug 10, 2016 16:56
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Ciaphas posted:I meant more along the lines of a device coming in saying "I'm 192.168.0.10" or whatever by static assignment and the router/gateway responding "gently caress off, get your IP from DHCP like everyone goddamn else" and keeps it off the network until someone changes the settings. Yes this is absolutely thing, but probably not with home gear. It's done at the switch level. In the Cisco world it can be accomplished with the DHCP snooping and IP source guard features. Maybe the Ubiquiti switches have a comparable feature, but I'm not familiar with them. e: looks like Ubiquiti Edgeswitches do indeed support DHCP snooping, which is exactly what you're looking for. CheddarGoblin fucked around with this message at 22:57 on Aug 19, 2016 |
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Aug 19, 2016 22:53
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Blowjob Overtime posted:SB6141 to Netgear WAN You've got three routers here and are potentially running triple-NAT. This is an awful setup. Is that surfboard in bridge mode? e: oh sorry that surfboard is not a router. CheddarGoblin fucked around with this message at 21:48 on Jan 30, 2017 |
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Jan 30, 2017 21:45
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Blowjob Overtime posted:My initial question was: is there a reason it would work directly to a device, but not through a switch? Sure. What troubleshooting have you done? Are you getting link lights on all the appropriate ports when plugging in? What exactly do you mean by not working? What device is it? If it's not a PC, try hooking up a PC to the switch and see if it detects a link and gets an IP.
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Jan 30, 2017 22:55
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bobfather posted:Not sure if this is right for the home networking thread, but if I'm doing vlan tagging on a device (a Grandstream phone) and that device connects to my smart switch (that can do 802.1q stuff correctly) via a dumb, unmanaged switch, there is a non-zero chance that will break the tagging, right? Dumb switches will pass the vlan tags through. Maybe there are some out there that don't, but I've never seen it.
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Feb 3, 2017 23:36
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How far away is the barn from the house? You'll CheddarGoblin fucked around with this message at 20:11 on Feb 6, 2017 |
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Feb 6, 2017 20:03
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unpurposed posted:Thanks everyone for the help! You need an ethernet switch in there. The "telecom module" ports on the left you can ignore, that's for phone lines. The ports on the right, as you've figured out, are the patch ports that go to the different jacks in your house. Put a switch in there and connect it to the ports on right for the respective jacks you want active, and ditch the thing on the left.
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Feb 13, 2017 22:41
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Pham Nuwen posted:I'm not asking about Cisco, Arista, Juniper, I'm asking about the $40 8-port managed switches linked in the OP which claim "easy setup" and based on some of the Amazon reviews sound like they want you to run a Windows program to do initial config. No, you don't need to use the apps. They exist to make it dead easy for people unwilling or unable to figure out the IP address to get into the web interface. But if you read the manual you'll see that it'll either come set to a default IP or to use DHCP. I've never seen one where using the lovely windows app is mandatory.
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Feb 28, 2017 17:17
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adorai posted:just popping in to say that repurposing $10 meraki access points with cucumber tony is pretty awesome. gently caress. Are you serious? I threw away like a dozen MR16's when our sub ran out. Oh well, they weren't even AC anyway.
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Mar 28, 2017 17:35
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n0tqu1tesane posted:Why not? Multicast routing is a very real thing. IPTV multicast stuff usually has a TTL of 1 so it's unrouteable anyways.
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Apr 18, 2017 21:01
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EconOutlines posted:Any Synology guys able to help me out? i wouldn't count on it just showing up in the shared list over VPN. try to cmd-k in finder and connect directly by IP (smb://192.168.1.x)
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May 11, 2017 18:57
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Hexyflexy posted:Changing the DNS servers provided over DHCP to use googles rather than the ISPs in all circumstances. Not that it matters now, but FYI you can do this and almost everything else from the GUI. 
CheddarGoblin fucked around with this message at 22:36 on May 17, 2017 |
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May 17, 2017 21:35
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He says the first computer is usually turned off. So not only is it not a good idea, it just wouldn't work at all.
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Aug 16, 2017 20:52
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Mister Speaker posted:I grabbed a passively-cooled switch, a LinkSys SE3016. Can someone point me in the right direction to set up a dedicated VLAN across a few of its ports? As far as I can tell this is an unmanaged switch and as such you can't configure VLANs on it. You'll need a managed switch for this.
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Feb 7, 2019 21:30
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