|
Just a small update. Still running my WNDR3700v2 on the stock firmware. Still rock-solid. Can't complain coming from a slowly dying 3com AP. I haven't even needed to think about the Netgear in a month which is a huge plus in my book.
|
# ¿ Nov 29, 2011 05:00 |
|
|
# ¿ Apr 18, 2024 03:44 |
|
Vaginal Engineer posted:This sentence doesn't make any sense to me. Could you please explain what you mean?
|
# ¿ Dec 4, 2011 18:56 |
|
Boxman posted:I have no idea if this is the right thread, but here goes.
|
# ¿ Dec 5, 2011 06:28 |
|
Mr Man posted:Thanks, Sorry I didn't explain it further.
|
# ¿ Dec 5, 2011 21:54 |
|
CampingCarl posted:Well my dad went out and got a Netgear WNDR3400 because thats what the kid at Best Buy told him he had, whatever. But the specs seem OK and a quick check of the reviews seems decent. There isn't a dd-wrt for the v2 yet, oh well. I used to have one of the old whitebox Netgear routers and it was awful, but the WNDR series seems very decent.
|
# ¿ Dec 21, 2011 03:58 |
|
Tedronai66 posted:Bumping this. Also, WNDR3700 router is an option in there (same price as the e4200 refurb).
|
# ¿ Jan 24, 2012 06:27 |
|
Are there any current thread-recommended 2.4ghz/5ghz N dual-band adapters? I'd strongly prefer PCI-E/internal, but I'm not adverse to USB parts. I don't care so much about speed, but the 2.4ghz band is very crowded at my new place. Bunch of assholes on overlapping channels as well - one dickhead I'm pretty sure actually has two routers, using 2+6 and 5+9 . Because of this, I'd like to move my desktop over to my WNDR3700's 5ghz network if possible. There's not really an efficient way (that I could determine) to isolate dual-band adapters on Newegg, other than checking each one listed for 5ghz capability, but I was hoping there are a few models that have been recommended frequently around here. Edit: Seriously look at this poo poo: future ghost fucked around with this message at 07:13 on Feb 3, 2012 |
# ¿ Feb 3, 2012 07:06 |
|
Henrik Zetterberg posted:Any 8-port gigabit switch recommendations? I have a 2-3 year old Linksys EG008W, and according to Amazon, this is the updated model of the same thing: (8-port version) http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-ProSafe-Gigabit-Ethernet-Desktop/dp/B00006RVPW/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1328557060&sr=1-1 For the most part, unless you have specific requirements though, a cheap basic Trendnet switch would probably work. future ghost fucked around with this message at 20:42 on Feb 6, 2012 |
# ¿ Feb 6, 2012 20:40 |
|
I think this got lost on the last page, but I need a (preferably-internal) adapter that supports 5ghz. I've seen plenty of decently-reviewed USB adapters, but they seem to be mainly 2.4ghz models. I need something stable to pair with my Netgear router as the 2.4ghz band is super-crowded here. Doesn't matter if the adapter is dual-band or 5ghz-only.
|
# ¿ Feb 9, 2012 05:31 |
|
Postal posted:Two questions: I use a stripped-down undervolted northwood setup to make switching out parts easier/cheaper, but you can run an ITX-sized atom/AMD E-series box as well depending on your requirements. Another option is to look into a microtik setup (check the SH/SC thread). Either way it'd be a good learning experience, and having the extra monitoring/logging/filtering options can be helpful. future ghost fucked around with this message at 01:18 on Apr 7, 2012 |
# ¿ Apr 7, 2012 01:12 |
|
Postal posted:Do you just have twin NICs or do you go all out to recreate a "normal" home router (one Internet-facing NIC and four internals)? Check newegg for ITX platforms or ask around in the parts-picking thread. Some of the guys there have built some nice SFF boxes recently. I'd advise staying away from shuttle as it's preferable to have a box you can switch parts in/out of easily.
|
# ¿ Apr 7, 2012 01:39 |
|
I finally got around to installing a 5ghz N card in my desktop after someone pointed out this badboy in the parts-picking thread. I used the latest atheros drivers instead of TP-Link's software. The signal isn't fantastic for 5ghz (signal's passing through 2 walls and the back of a PC though, so what are ya gonna do?) via inssider2, but the signal that Windows7 sees has consistently been 5 bars. It probably helps that the 5ghz band is completely empty here. The speed has registered as a sustained 300mbps (limited by the Netgear WNDR3700 router) and I haven't had any problems with disconnections or connectivity issues since I installed the card. I'll probably grab some new antennas to boost the signal, but it doesn't seem to be necessary at the moment. I've had some negative experiences with USB adapters in the past, so I'll take a lower absolute signal over having to deal with those. As an additional bonus, thanks to the increased bandwidth, I've determined that Comcast has boosted my business account's downstream by 2X for free. I had no idea as the old G card didn't have enough speed to ID it and I hadn't thought to check the wired fileserver/HTPC. Given that 5ghz adapters (and 5ghz PCI-E cards) are almost non-existent at this point, you could do way worse than this TP-Link card if 5ghz is a requirement and you have a router/AP that supports it.
|
# ¿ May 11, 2012 01:54 |
|
Josh Lyman posted:I just put together a desktop, and the WNDR3700 is located one floor up and a living room across. I bought a TP-Link PCI 802.11n adapter because it was $20 at Microcenter. Trouble is, I'm only getting 3 bars in Windows 7, and OpenWRT says the signal strength is -60dB. Is there anything I can do to boost signal strength? Is there another adapter I should try? A couple of these should do it, and you can position them away from the case. Alternatively, some USB adapters have external wired antennas which might end up being cheaper.
|
# ¿ May 16, 2012 05:44 |
|
Golbez posted:Mediacom. And the funny thing is, it's not just torrents: It's HTTP/FTP downloads that kill it too. I managed to bork it by just downloading the latest Fedora ISO. If I had Netflix running on another computer it would die even more reliably.
|
# ¿ May 26, 2012 21:24 |
|
Jinnigan posted:Hey guys, do you have any recommendation on buying a wireless adapter for desktops? I'm on an 802.11n network but other than that I don't have any major needs. My router is on the first floor and I'm on the third. I could do a PCIe card, or a USB one would work too. What do y'all suggest? 2.4ghz N: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833166047 5ghz/2.4ghz N: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833704133 Both of these can use aftermarket antennas. Given the distance involved you'd probably have the best results with the Rosewill model & a uni-directional antenna, although the TP-Link card will give you faster speed if your router supports it. I'm using the latest atheros chipset drivers for both of the cards instead of the manufacturers' drivers (AR9380 for the TP-Link card and AR9285 for the Rosewill card). e: Wish I had known this existed when I bought my cards. The Intel option is the way to go really if you're going with PCI-E. VVV future ghost fucked around with this message at 19:54 on May 27, 2012 |
# ¿ May 27, 2012 00:13 |
|
EscapeHere posted:Question: does anybody know of a device I can get that will connect to my landlord's AP, create its own separate WiFi network with a different name and password, and be able to route traffic accordingly? That way we can connect all our devices to our own WiFi network and have it only send internet traffic through to his.
|
# ¿ Jun 16, 2012 05:15 |
|
n0n0 posted:My newly-built PC has an 802.11n PCI card. The problem is that it's really low to the floor and it gets horrible signal strength down there. On top of the desk, the signal is much stronger. If it's a 5ghz card, uh, let me know what you find as I haven't found a decent antenna yet.
|
# ¿ Jun 23, 2012 06:45 |
|
n0n0 posted:It's 2.4ghz... and that's a little more money than I wanted to spend. I was thinking like less than 20 bucks. Sheesh. http://www.amazon.com/Booster-OMNI-Directional-High-Gain-Screw-On-magnetic/dp/B0039ORBLK/ref=pd_cp_e_1 http://www.amazon.com/Zonet-Zwa1007...=2.4ghz+antenna
|
# ¿ Jun 23, 2012 07:02 |
|
I run mixed-HT on my WNDR3700's 2.4ghz band. The only 2.4ghz N device (my housemate's PC) is limited to ~150mbit, so the occasional speed drop from the -G phones doesn't really affect anything for the most part. The 5ghz network runs mixed by default, but the 5ghz N devices all run at 300mbit so the speeds never drop down on that band. I use 5ghz with the PCI-E card on my desktop as it gets better speeds and pings even with the reduced signal strength vs. G-mode (probably due to all the 2.4ghz interference in my apartment complex).fallenturtle posted:Edit: So if I do want to take advantage of the 5Ghz frequency, is there any advantage disadvantage of going simul-dualband vs two separate access points?
|
# ¿ Jun 27, 2012 23:42 |
|
UndyingShadow posted:Yes, it does.
|
# ¿ Jul 5, 2012 23:52 |
|
MycroftXXX posted:So I'm kicking around this thread a bit and have a quick question. Sorry if this has been answered before but there is kind of a lot of information to sift though.
|
# ¿ Aug 28, 2012 03:06 |
|
Powerful Two-Hander posted:Can anyone recommend a PC wireless card that isnt a total piece of poo poo? I've got a Cisco/Linksys WMP600N and it's hopeless - gets worse reception than an adroid phone in the same location in the house, drops connection randomly for a few seconds and somehow manages to cause stuttering on the rest of the machine when it's in use (seriously, I get mouse input stuttering on a core i5, that shouldn't happen). http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833106135
|
# ¿ Dec 2, 2012 21:46 |
|
DrDork posted:Are there any current mid- to high-end routers that actually have a functional QoS system, or do I really have to flash to DDWRT or Tomato to get that? I've currently got a Netgear WNDR3700 and its QoS options are a complete lie. As far as I can tell they do absolutely nothing, as my torrent computer still clobbers the internet connection, even when set to lowest priority by both port and MAC address. In addition, set the number of total connections, connections per torrent, and upload limits in the torrent client to significantly lower numbers depending on your connection speed. Running too many overall connections and saturating your upload bandwidth will drag your connection/router down quickly.
|
# ¿ Dec 17, 2012 02:11 |
|
I'm still running a 3700 v2 connected to my smoothwall box as an AP, and I like it for the dual-band and reliability. No idea if the routing functions are as flawless (although you won't need them anyways) but I can't complain about the speed or range on it. It has gigabit ports, not really useful for wireless throughput as mentioned, but it does allow it to be used as a gigabit switch if needed.
|
# ¿ Dec 20, 2012 02:55 |
|
So after around 14 months, the 2.4ghz band on my 3700v2 finally died. Fortunately, the 5ghz band still works fine, and I have a backup 3Com AP for 2.4ghz stuff, so I don't have to rush out and buy a new one just yet. Thinking that it might be better to look into a mikrotik setup instead, given that I just need a reliable AP to attach to my smoothwall box. Just posting to confirm that yes, it appears that 2.4ghz band reliability over time may actually be a thing with that particular model.
|
# ¿ Jan 6, 2013 02:13 |
|
Progression Please posted:Trying to set up QOS on my router to prioritize Dota 2 over people dl'ing or streaming. I set the UDP range to the specific dota port (27015), and set priority to highest. I have no other QOS entries, will this singular dota2 entry be sufficient to prioritize Dota or will I have to go configure all the other traffic users like torrent etc. to low? I have no idea what I am doing.
|
# ¿ Jan 6, 2013 07:14 |
|
Vinlaen posted:Are those the numbers I should enter into the QoS wizard or should I go slightly lower? (although, I hate the idea of entering a LOWER amount and forcing my connection to go slower just so I can perform QoS, but what can you do?)
|
# ¿ Feb 12, 2013 21:28 |
|
FISHMANPET posted:I've got a WRT54GL that I love and a 1 Megabit connection so it does just fine. But I'm pretty much fed up with G, so I'm looking for a plain and simple N access point. Anything recommended?
|
# ¿ Feb 15, 2013 05:44 |
|
Fil5000 posted:Hey all. Read through the OP but I'm afraid I've still got some questions. future ghost fucked around with this message at 23:43 on Mar 12, 2013 |
# ¿ Mar 12, 2013 23:41 |
|
Lowness 72 posted:I'm curious as to why buffalo isn't mentioned in the OP. Are they still banned from selling in the US? My buffalo at home has been rock solid for 4 years now Secx posted:I'd like to know how much traffic each physical port is using (in real-time). Bad Munki posted:On a marginally related note:
|
# ¿ Mar 15, 2013 17:40 |
|
titaniumone posted:I have a mini-ITX system running pfSense, and a Cisco switch. My roommate has an Airport Extreme plugged in to serve solely as a wireless AP. He's moving out, so I'm going to need something to replace his Airport when he takes it with him. I'm on my second one though, since the 2.4ghz band on the first one (V2 revision) died around the 15-month mark. The 5ghz band on that one is still reliable so I've been using it as an extender.
|
# ¿ Apr 2, 2013 20:02 |
|
Vintersorg posted:Any recommendations for a wireless USB stick for use on my PC? I moved into an apartment and the cable line is going to be across the room and id rather not be running cables all over the drat place. If it comes down to that I can but would rather avoid it. I didn't see anything in the OP. Alternatively, for around the same price, get one of these Intel cards if you have a spare PCI-E slot: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833106135 . Goon Matchmaker posted:My speed is always stable at 3.3 MB/s once it settles down from the speed boost or whatever Comcast calls it. Three-Phase posted:Boy, my iPad really likes to talk to my router all the time (probably because of push email settings). I've also seen a couple of instances where there's an access rejected from my iPad's MAC address. Enable wireless isolation for your ipad, etc. and put everything else on a direct ethernet connection. Otherwise just use strong passwords and stop about it. No one's going to go through the effort of breaking into your network unless you're a celebrity or government official or something, in which case you probably shouldn't use wireless at all. future ghost fucked around with this message at 16:13 on Apr 9, 2013 |
# ¿ Apr 9, 2013 15:58 |
|
Thanatosian posted:The network is off of one of Comcast's higher-end residential plans, running a Cisco-Linksys E3000 Wireless-N router with Tomato installed; not sure what the modem is, but I think it's a Motorola combo unit (I intend to shut off the wi-fi for that once I get the router up and running).
|
# ¿ Apr 16, 2013 16:28 |
|
Experto Crede posted:Valid points, yeah. What about DSL? Is the recommended setup for an internal one or an external going into one of the Ethernet ports? With DSL you would generally have the ISP modem connected to the Red/WAN port on your router, and then the Green/LAN port would connect over to a switch. Set the ISP modem in bridged mode and disable DHCP/firewalling on it. Give the router a static IP and have it handle DHCP and DNS instead. You can point the DNS address on the router to the ISP modem if you want to use the ISP DNS servers (this is important for U-Verse in particular). Internal DSL cards probably exist, but if you already have a DSL modem on hand, just use that instead. If it's a multiple-port model, use a LAN ethernet port on the modem and not the WAN port. Make sure to check the supported cards for whatever router OS you're planning to use. Realtek cards are widely supported, but at least with Smoothwall, Intel cards are recommended for higher throughput requirements. The board you've linked should work fine assuming you're getting ~50mbit or less down. Generally with router OS' you want somewhat older hardware for better support, although sticking with Intel parts always helps. You should probably take a look at the Microtik thread as well if you're interested in an all-in-one box with wifi included. future ghost fucked around with this message at 20:10 on Apr 22, 2013 |
# ¿ Apr 22, 2013 20:06 |
|
SamDabbers posted:Or you can pick up a Mikrotik RB951G-2HnD and get the low-power all-in-one goodness you seek in the hardware, with more Linux-based networking features than you'll ever use.
|
# ¿ Apr 22, 2013 23:48 |
|
Antioch posted:Score, thanks. Off to the store I go!
|
# ¿ Apr 25, 2013 23:57 |
|
Isko posted:So my old router has randomly stopped working practically everyday lately so I think it's time to get a new one. I was looking at a ASUS RT-N16 but I'm a little worried about it possibly heating up too much because I live in a hot area and I think that may be a problem with my current router. Are any of the routers less susceptible to heat than others? I read in the OP that routers tend to have bad heat management. I never cared about all the technical stuff in the past, I never even updated my firmware, but I'm looking for something that I can do some fiddling with and get the most out of a router. Any suggestions? I read through the OP but it was a bit overwhelming. Is the ASUS RT-N16 going to be all right? I'm fine with anything around $100.
|
# ¿ Apr 30, 2013 06:23 |
|
snickles posted:Slightly different situation but I think this may be my problem. I got a new arris modem/router/phone which seems to be interfering with my ability to port forward. Port forwarding from the arris to my router and from the router to the target machine doesn't work, not does using the arris' DMZ function. I suspect I need to try switching the arris to bridge mode - would this fix the issue I'm having or am I missing something?
|
# ¿ May 11, 2013 18:12 |
|
snickles posted:It's a cable modem. Same thing?
|
# ¿ May 11, 2013 18:25 |
|
|
# ¿ Apr 18, 2024 03:44 |
|
Bad Munki posted:Right, but then I'd also have to manually assign the IP on the computer in question. This way, it still gets its IP via DHCP, it just always gets the same one. Assigned addresses need to be outside of the DHCP address pool for this reason. edit: Agreed, but since their router doesn't seem to be doing that consistently it's better to change one setting and then never have to worry about it again. VVV future ghost fucked around with this message at 19:14 on May 18, 2013 |
# ¿ May 18, 2013 17:22 |