|
Hey goons, in a tiny bit of a pinch. My wife is in the hospital with what looks like labor with our 30.5 week twins and we are trying to pass the time. I have a 4TB NAS at home with lots of media, and a big wifi connection here. The NAS is very underpowered, one of those EasyStore boxes, but I have a solid C2D box on the network also that I could host a server. What is today's great software for streaming media from home over the internet. Back in the day it was Orb, and I used AirVideo with my iPad, but not sure I want to go that route. I can remote in to both boxes, so I can install whatever I need to. Thanks!
|
#
¿
Dec 6, 2011 02:51
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 18, 2024 05:09 |
|
|
Thanks for the quick responses guys. We did have a hard time hearing the audio on my Thinkpad X220 so the iPad MAY be a better choice. I'll give it a go.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 6, 2011 03:20
|
|
|
Nitr0 posted:If you have an ipad then airvideo. 100%. Watched an episode of Homeland flawlessly... thanks for the shout out. It was a bit quiet, but whatcha gonna do in a noisy hospital room with heartbeats and stuff going on?!
|
|
#
¿
Dec 6, 2011 06:20
|
|
|
I have an interesting thought exercise for you guys. Let's leave the potential TOS violations on the side for a separate argument and only speak about the technical aspects here. I have three neighbors that I am very close with that also live physically close, let's call it 200 feet to the furthest point of their houses. I've had the idea of getting an omnidirectional antenna and extending the range of my wifi to encircle their homes and share my internet connection with them, as well as creating a large home network. In order to reduce the impact of the walls degrading the signals, I think it'd be smart to put Routers in their attics to bridge the signal into their own homes and also provide another layer of security and control between the 'community network' and their private one. I wanted to pick your brains and see what you think you would do in this situation and how feasible it would be. Is it possible to do this reliably? Would P2P LOS antennas be a better solution, despite the increase in hardware? If this has been discussed already, I apologize, please point me in the right direction! edit: clarification: these are separated single family homes with about 10-15 feet in between them. Mostly brick and siding.
|
|
#
¿
May 17, 2012 20:24
|
|
|
keykey posted:P2P LOS is always better than magic wall penetration because all walls present different variables. Setup a main router for distributing the ISP signal then setup the other 2 houses with wifi bridges down to routers on different subnets. Obviously, you'll need another router off the main router to be on your own network for privacy. It's quoted at 15MPBs, and it actually does come in pretty close to that. My SABnzbd fills up around 1800, so * 8 brings it close to that. P2P LOS seems like a hassle that could be avoided with a strong enough omnidirectional. I haven't really used one before, can they get powerful enough for the distance i'm using to sort of 'hammer' through the different variables the walls may have? I'm thinking the attic routers will help get around much of that. What would the equipment list look like? My home: Antenna (omni or P2P) -> Router? Or another device in between?
|
|
#
¿
May 17, 2012 21:51
|
|
|
CuddleChunks posted:Sounds like fun. Was just talking about that with the neighbor just now. I'm getting around 12-15mbps. How much would really start screwing it up? I never kitice a problem. I set my usenet to start at midnight. One guy games at night, one doesn't go do much. Not sure about the other.
|
|
#
¿
May 19, 2012 02:40
|
|
|
keykey posted:Your house omni, the other 2 houses directional. A router in your attic with the shared broadband connection plugged into it, a bridge in the other 2 attics. Then 3 more routers to route to private networks while maintaining a shared internet connection. I'm an overly simplistic guy, I just came across this deal (http://www.mwave.com/mwave/SKUSearch.asp?scriteria=BA75902&px=DN) it claims to offer 1.25 mile range. Since I'm only going a couple hundred feet, if I put this sucker in my attic could I reasonably expect to share my internet with my neighbors within that 200 foot range? At the very worst would it reliably connect to a router in their attic which then shared to their homes from there?
|
|
#
¿
May 21, 2012 17:00
|
|
|
I've been out of the home networking game for a while so am modernizing my network. I'm going to pick up the ARRIS SB6121 (as recommended on an earlier page) and give Wideopenwest the middle finger with their increasing monthly fee (now $15, going up a few more dollars). I have an older Linksys that only has 100 megabit ports that I want to upgrade. What's the best go to router around $100 these days? I don't need a lot of fancy features, probably just enough RAM for the dang thing not to have the NAT overloaded with Linux ISOs being thrown around. Roughly 15 devices will be on it, but not likely at the same time. 3 Chromecasts, a couple tablets and phones, 2 Amazon FireTVs, and two PCs. Everything with an Ethernet port will be wired with a gigabit switch put behind the router. I wouldn't mind having ac for future proofing but don't have any devices on it yet. Appreciate any feedback, just looking to cut through to the few tried and true Goon favorites. Thanks!
|
|
#
¿
Jan 2, 2015 21:56
|
|
|
You can always put a proper router in behind their crummy modem though. But their gateways are a major reason of why I won't use their service anymore. They struggle with any file sharing traffic and then it impacts your television because it goes through there as well. Just crap.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 12, 2015 17:45
|
|
|
americanzero4128 posted:I'm looking for a new router for my apartment. Right now I'm using a ~8 year old WRT54G running dd-wrt that has been a work horse, but has been dropping wireless connections for the past couple weeks and my wife is starting to get pissed. We already own our own modem, so I don't need a modem as well. I saw the Asus AC66U recommended on the previous page, but gently caress me, $160 for a router is kind of expensive. Is there a router in the $100 range that is goon recommended? I found a TP-LINK AC1750 on Amazon for $100 that has pretty good reviews, but haven't heard of this brand before so I figured I would ask here. I'd have two wired devices, and maybe five wireless devices at once connected to it. Gigabit connection would be nice in the future when I add a NAS to my home network setup, which this has. What alternatives am I look at in the $100 price range? If this is the best one in that price range, then I'll go ahead and order it, but I figured I'd ask first. Riso posted:The ASUS RT-N66U should be in that range. It just won't do AC. Fry's has it for $100 after rebate with free shipping. I'm thinking of finally pulling the trigger on it as I don't have an express need for ac for the near future and desperately need to replace my aging Linksys E1000. There's many times I can't load youtube in my basement on my tablet or phone. Plus I need gigabit these days. http://dealnews.com/Asus-802.11-n-Wireless-4-Port-Gigabit-Router-for-100-after-rebate-free-shipping/1308580.html
|
|
#
¿
Mar 22, 2015 22:36
|
|
|
Just cancelled my backordered RT-N66U at Fry's from last weeks $99 after rebate deal and jumped on the white version on Amazon for $99 with no rebate and prime shipping: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FK1E46U/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
|
|
#
¿
Mar 31, 2015 18:47
|
|
|
Buy your own, you can get a SB6121 from amazon for $70 and after seven months you will be saving money. It'll likely be higher quality and more stable than whatever garbage they will give you.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 2, 2015 16:01
|
|
|
My 10down/1up is safe for the foreseeable future on the 6121
|
|
#
¿
Apr 2, 2015 21:57
|
|
|
Good morning networking thread. Hoping to get a little direction here. I am dabbling with putting a whole home VPN on my network (obvious reasons why with the current climate) but found when experimenting with ExpressVPN that Netflix is actively hunting down their servers and blocking them. This won't work as my kids would kill me if Netflix didn't work. I'm thinking that there has to be a way to separate some of my network traffic to go outside the VPN and the balance staying within it. However, I'd like to have the devices be able to communicate with eachother despite their connection through the VPN. My first inclination was to purchase a second router to put the devices I want 'free' of the VPN on (most of my devices that would need to be clear would be hard wired FireTVs) and then use openVPN on the router for the rest. Issue with that is that Plex would be hosted on one of the VPN devices and I doubt there'd be a way for clear devices to see and talk to it. Is there a way to mix the two routers so that they can talk but still preserving their targeted WAN status? I have an ASUS rt-n66u (technically 66n, but it's the same thing just a rebranded model) and although I haven't done any custom firmware I believe it's one of the more flexible and receptive devices to doing so. Back in the day I burned through many a Linksys router playing with firmware, shorting out connections to clear memory, etc. that I am a bit hesitant to go this route these days. Is the landscape different in 2017? Is there a solution that will let me funnel devices into openVPN or away by IP/MAC and still maintain communication in the intranet? Appreciate any insight, happy to do a network diagram but not sure it's necessary. While it's complicated looking and sprawling throughout my house it's a few unmanaged switches connected to the router. Thanks!
|
|
#
¿
Apr 5, 2017 11:19
|
|
|
Awesome explanation, thank you very much. I did understand what you laid out there and see the logic. Looks like the trickiest part would be getting the right IP range for Netflix and that looks prohibitively difficult. In that last diagram, is there a set up that would allow all the devices behind the various routers to speak to another despite being connected behind different routers? My gut tells me, no.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 6, 2017 17:51
|
|
|
Antillie posted:Actually yes there is. In fact there are two. This sort of thing is what (real) routers are actually meant for. One method involves setting up a dynamic routing protocol on all three routers (surprisingly easy on a Cisco router really) and then letting the routers sort everything out automatically. The other method involves manually setting static routes on the routers. I had studied some CCNA materials over a decade ago and had an openBSD PC as my router in my closet at one point so this was a very nice intellectual journey. But, to your point, not practical for my environment. Cost prohibitive either from a single router or multiple environment for a petty goal. I greatly appreciate vetting out the idea though.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 6, 2017 21:41
|
|
|
Hey all, hoping you can help me sort something out that came out of the blue and I can't wrap my head around why it suddenly stopped working. My high-level network structure was as follows: Modem -> Router (Nighthawk X6 R7900) -> Unmanaged switch -> Bunch of hard-wired devices and 2 other Unmanaged switches to a bunch of other devices in another sections of my home. This set up worked for quite a long while with no issues. Suddenly, one of my unmanaged switches (the one behind the other) stopped working. The devices couldn't get an IP, the XBOX complained of having a connection but no DHCP server. So, I re-ran some cable to have the 'slave' unmanaged switch to have a direct connection to the router. Same issues. Ordered a new switch online thinking that one died, still same issue. Thinking I messed something up with the cable creation, I plugged the ethernet directly into the Xbox, perfect. Works great. Swapped the other 'slave' unmanaged switch and it worked. When I put the new switch where the old one was, now those separate group of devices didn't have a connection. It's as if these two unmanaged switches refuse to be active at the same time. If I disable one, the other gets a connection. Any ideas on how to troubleshoot this? The strangest thing is that I have had this configuration for quite some time with no issues. I did make some minor alterations to my router recently, but do not think that it should have had an impact. I turned on some guest wi-fi networks and made my primary SSID 5ghz instead of 2.4. I played around with the built-in parental controls (Circle) and thinking that was meddling, turned it off and the continues to occur. e: Googling mentioned issues with some switches that are on the wrong subnet so DHCP wouldn't work, but since these are unmanaged there's no way to configure or adjust them. Thought I'd mention it as it 'feels' like that's part of the issue. TraderStav fucked around with this message at 16:27 on Jun 16, 2019 |
|
#
¿
Jun 16, 2019 16:21
|
|
|
Of course I didn't stop troubleshooting after posting this, but I THINK it may be working. I started thinking that I may be generating the loop somehow by a device connected to that switch, although it isn't likely. So I fired the problematic switch back up with only the xbox connected and started adding the critical devices I needed to see if it started to fail. After getting the ones I needed the most (my Denon receiver and unused Blu-ray player can deal without a network connection) it's still working, so good? I'm not convinced as it's been so mercurial and waiting for a kid to scream that his Fortnite update isn't working...
|
|
#
¿
Jun 16, 2019 17:02
|
|
|
Forget my earlier message, now it's not working again.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 16, 2019 22:28
|
|
|
Can you set up OpenVPN on The Google WiFi mesh so I can use my iPhone to get to my home network when out and about.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 17, 2019 17:07
|
|
|
Just installed Google Wifi last night and am looking to replace the openVPN functionality I had on my old router so that I can remote in to my local network from my devices while away. I can run an openVPN server on one of my raspberry pi's (logically the one running pihole) and then forward the port to that to have the same effect, right? Just need to get a dyndns running so I don't to remember the IP and it should all effectively be the same as loaded on the router?
|
|
#
¿
Jun 20, 2019 13:27
|
|
|
Hey all, I have moved to Google Wifi in the past year and really missing utilizing the built-in openVPN on my previous Netgear router to access my home PC and servers. What is the best solution to getting a VPN connection back to my home network in this configuration without disabling the Mesh on the Google Wifi and also not loving my set up that is working currently. I know I could put the older Netgear router behind the Google and forward the port, but then I would not be able to have any devices connected to the Mesh connect to anything behind the router. Is there a solution that exists that will allow this functionality? I also have a few Raspberry Pis laying around (one running PiHole and Homebridge) that could be tasked to host openVPN but am unclear on how to set it up properly. My initial thought would be to install openVPN on the PiHole and then forward the port to it, but I have a feeling that it wouldn’t work properly to access the other servers/machines on my home network, or would it? Thanks in advance net-goons!
|
|
#
¿
Feb 22, 2020 00:13
|
|
|
Follow-up to my previous post. I decided to try loading up the openVPN server to my Windows 10 box. I was able to create all the keys and get my iPhone connected to the VPN while it had its WiFi disabled. I was unable to access anything on the LAN, so I believe that I need to configure the Windows box to bridge the connection. Can I do this virtually or do I need a second NIC? I found this link, but it's too late now for me to try it and I believe that I need to go back and re-edit my .opvn files to tell my clients that it'll encounter a bridge. https://openvpn.net/community-resources/notes-ethernet-bridging-with-the-bridge-occurring-on-the-windows-side/ Am I barking up the wrong tree? Any unforeseen obstacles that I am plowing into? Thanks again!
|
|
#
¿
Feb 22, 2020 06:17
|
|
|
SlowBloke posted:If your host is windows I would suggest using softether, I’ve found it easier to set up and it rarely breaks Thanks, I'll try this out! Can I use the openVPN iOS app to access it still? Not seeing a SoftEther app on the store.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 22, 2020 15:26
|
|
|
SlowBloke posted:If your host is windows I would suggest using softether, I’ve found it easier to set up and it rarely breaks Hot-diggity dog I set it up! Thank you! This was my largest frustration with Google Wifi and hadn't realized it was this straightforward to set up. I did end up using the openVPN app as SoftEther provided that as an option. What a great solution overall.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 22, 2020 16:05
|
|
|
SlowBloke posted:Sorry for not replying sooner but it looks like you have managed it either way. If you want to avoid one extra app you could use softether l2tp vpn mode and rely on the native iOS vpn options. Thanks, unless there's a way to quickly toggle the VPN I think that the openVPN app may be the better solution. I don't think you can do it via shortcuts or the control center so it's nested in there every time I want to switch. Appreciate all of the help!
|
|
#
¿
Feb 22, 2020 16:51
|
|
|
Apparently just dodged a bullet with Best Buy closing before I could pick up a SB6190 cable modem as it apparently has some faulty chipset. Some researching shows that I should get the SB8200 instead for my 500/50 internet that I just upgraded to. Just wanted to do a quick pulse check with goons if there are any red flags with this gigabit cablemodem and if I should be looking at another model while I still have time to cancel the order and make another selection. Appreciate the feedback! Thanks! e: also, if I plan to start dipping my toes in the prosumer networking products in the near future (UniFi) is this still a good selection?
|
|
#
¿
May 21, 2020 23:59
|
|
|
H2SO4 posted:The SB8200 is the right choice, and you did dodge a bullet. It will work just fine with whatever you want to pair with it. Thank you for the validation! I should know better than to just click buy without researching.
|
|
#
¿
May 22, 2020 03:24
|
|
|
Can anyone point me to a wikihow or YouTube or something on the best way to PROPERLY run wiring to rooms? Specifically to create an outlet in an already dry walled room. Currently I have wires poking through where the carpet meets the mounding and know that's not proper. I'll likely be doing a full rewire of my house and want to do it well. To that end, if I'm bothering to run wire, I should definitely do cat 6, right? Is best practice to run one drop to a room and then if I need more connections in it to put a hub or switch or should I be running as many as I think I will need devices for.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 2, 2020 21:05
|
|
|
TraderStav posted:Can anyone point me to a wikihow or YouTube or something on the best way to PROPERLY run wiring to rooms? Specifically to create an outlet in an already dry walled room. Currently I have wires poking through where the carpet meets the mounding and know that's not proper. This got a bit lost above, would love some input on this! Thanks!
|
|
#
¿
Jun 4, 2020 13:15
|
|
|
Thanks Ants posted:It totally depends on your house construction - brick vs. drywall, if you have a basement/attic, which floor the room is on etc. Interior construction is typical wood / drywall and I have basement and an attic. I'm speaking more about once the wire is in the room. Do I remove the molding and drill behind there to pull the wire there? Cut a hole in the wall for the termination point and outlet and pull up there? Most of my connections are able to be pushed upstairs from my basement wherever I want, second floor is another issue that I haven't solved how to get a cable up there yet. Sounds like I would get it to the attic and then drop down into the wall?
|
|
#
¿
Jun 4, 2020 13:54
|
|
|
Dick Nipples posted:I use mesh networking in my own home - I’ll explain it in a sec. There’s a couple types and I think it’s important to differentiate because it can help you make your choice of hardware. Can you weigh in on connecting the Google Wifi pucks to a hardwire ethernet for their 'backhaul' rather than relying on them to connect wirelessly? I'm in the process of doing that for a few of my stations right now that seem to be getting less than stellar performance. Does this effectively turn the Google Wifi into a series of APs instead of Mesh? I'm not sure the tradeoffs of having a series of APs versus a Mesh, so I may need to educate myself on that also. For what it's worth, in the next 6 months I intend to junk my Google Wifi and convert over to a UniFi set up, so am also evaluating if I should be looking into getting UniFI APs or their Mesh solution.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 4, 2020 15:24
|
|
|
SamDabbers posted:Wired backhaul is the best kind of backhaul because it's all dedicated, unshared bandwidth. I saw a passing comment on a reddit thread that it diminishes/eliminates the mesh capability for any pucks that are hardwired. That was my concern, but not knowing enough about what Mesh does is if that matters or if it becoming an AP (if that's true) is better.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 4, 2020 15:39
|
|
|
thiazi posted:I know there is more technical nuance, but think of WiFi mesh as simply APs with wireless backhaul (dedicated or not). Your clients dictate how they latch onto the APs, it's not like the mesh is actively forcing clients to the best node. (this is my understanding, smarter people will be along to correct me.) Ahhh, that does help. So if I am capable of getting a wired backhaul, Mesh is irrelevant for me. That helps me a lot, and given that I don't think I actually need any wired connections in my second floor, I may not be concerned about getting Ethernet up there any way and just let a first floor AP serve it.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 4, 2020 17:12
|
|
|
For the APs, for most home users are the lites good enough or should I grab a few pros instead?
|
|
#
¿
Jun 6, 2020 22:20
|
|
|
Tensokuu posted:Huh I was sure I posted earlier in this thread asking this: if I didn’t go Ubiquity what’s a good $150-200 router option that’s got good strength and known for being decent enough quality? My wife wants me to be able to see what else might be an option seeing I’d be the only one in the house who would know how to use the Uniquity router — at least if it was a TP Link or something I could talk someone through just going to 192.168.1.1 to fix something if needed. What's up SEMI Goon. That used to be my Microcenter before I moved closer to Ann Arbor (with no Microcenters  )
|
|
#
¿
Sep 5, 2020 21:49
|
|
|
Separate post for my situation: Hey all, wanted to run by my home networking / homelab set up and get feedback from everyone. Some of it will still be up in the air but I think will be easy enough to expand from what I have planned. Currently my house has cat5 going this way, that way and it's a real jumbled mess that evolved over time with good intentions. It's time to bring all of the networking and server equipment into a centralized and organized spot, and re-run all the cables so that I can do one day do 10gbps as well as PoE if I move away from my Nest Cams. I currently have Google Wifi and while I resolved a lot of the issues by hard wiring most of the pucks, I'm still not incredibly happy with it and want to move to the prosumer side of things with UniFi.  I've been procrastinating with buying/building a rack as I couldn't find a good spot in my basement to put it and while I've never had a flooded basement, a few of my neighbors have had their water heaters give out due to our hard water. I want to build this in such a way that if I am in such a position my hardware doesn't get torched. Any on-wall solution is really cramped or just won't work with the way piping/ducting/etc is. To get around this my thought is to get a server rack with enough extra space to allow for the water to not be a concern (I think 4-5U PLUS casters has a 2x or more safety margin here). Here's the equipment that I'm considering and where in the server rack I was thinking they would go. I've indicated what I already own where appropriate. Appreciate any input on the layout of the rack too, I did that kind of blindly without any experience in this. On top: Monitor, APC BX1500M UPS/Arris SB8200 Cable modem (all owned already) 20 - Patch Panel (24 port) 19 - Mesh cable passthrough 18 - UniFi Switch (24 port) 17 - Mesh cable passthrough 16 - UniFi Dream Machine Pro 11-15 - Shelf with 8-bay NAS (JBOD Tower already owned) 10 - Shelf with Keyboard / Mouse 6-9 - Dell 7810 workstation running UnRaid (owned) 1-5 - Empty (maybe use slots 4/5 for future rack mounted APC) 1-2 Access Points (1 per floor)-- Need some input on these, not sure if the $100-150 ones UniFi has are good enough or if I need to move up to a better one. I have a 2,600 sqft standard wood construction colonial house (not stretched out in a weird configuration) with a finished basement on a 1/5 acre, so don't need crazy coverage. Can definitely figure out how to wire the first floor, second may be more challenging but will sort it out This rack seems to serve my needs, as well as comes with two shelves already. But am VERY open to input on racks as I was considering 25/28/42U racks for future (completely unknown what that would be) expandability and neat things like mounting the monitor on a few Us. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YYMSFP1/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A71BSQGIJG059&psc=1 Lastly, I need cabling. I was looking at this Cat6, seems like it's a decent balance of price and will support PoE as a few of the cheaper listings state it isn't good for PoE. https://www.amazon.com/Infinity-600...s%2C204&sr=1-19 I'll work up a network / floor diagram soon, but wanted to get the rack and components on order to get started. Appreciate any input! Pick it apart! Thanks! e: Deeper into the reviews I go, I think I'm looking at the StarTech 25U instead -- https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Open-Frame-Server-Rack/dp/B00O6GNLQE/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8 TraderStav fucked around with this message at 22:29 on Sep 5, 2020 |
|
#
¿
Sep 5, 2020 21:52
|
|
|
Can you explain the use cases for the different APs? I'm planning my UniFi rollout and trying to make the decision on which APs are appropriate for me.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 6, 2020 16:10
|
|
|
Heners_UK posted:A few days into NextDNS and I do like it, but I still like PiHole and couldn't make a conclusive argument to switch if you already liked it and were served well.by it. On your router put a non-pihole DNS as the secondary, gets around that issue. 1.1.1.1
|
|
#
¿
Sep 9, 2020 20:55
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 18, 2024 05:09 |
|
|
codo27 posted:Is there/what is a good free ad blocking DNS I can set up from my router rather than on all devices individually? Set up a pi-hole and then direct your router to use that IP address for its DNS on the DHCP server.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 14, 2020 00:28
|
|