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Octopus Magic posted:Car is running and driving well. Transmission is a little notchy from first to second, but I'm thinking that it's more of a break-in issue than anything else. I might play with the clutch throw a little bit, but nothing too major, feels good. Update from Thompson: Probably my second worst track day I've ever had. I couldn't keep the rhythm of the car going down at all. Thompson is a weird kind of tight course that does not really favor high acceleration cars at all, which meant my bucket of garbage was plowing till the cow came home if you tried to point and shoot it like you can at say Lime Rock or even NHMS. Lots of weird off camber turns and such. Coolant temperatures barely rose above 90° C. Transmission shifted flawlessly, clutch felt good, although it's more of an off/on switch than a real clutch you can ease in and out of. Tires got pretty greasy but they're Yokohama, so what do you expect? So here comes the big doosey: The car kept on breaking up at WOT. Third gear/Fourth gear WOT gave the most horrible stutter. I threw some 98 octane in, and it seemed to help, but I would still get a sputter once in a while, and the car felt down on power. I checked for boost leaks, rechecked my hoses and they all look OK (my turbo to lower IC is a cheesy OEM style elbow rather than actual silicone, but that didn't seem to be a big enough issue. I couldn't pull a log because good luck getting DSMLink out on the track with a laptop. On my way home, I went off of wastegate pressure and it pulled strong, but obviously down on power. I lost pretty much all my concentration on driving due to lack of power, and as much as you want to drive the car at like 40% and hit all your apexes, it doesn't "feel" right, and the car doesn't work the course if you follow. I also had my rear end come out pretty hard for a 90 degree spin. I put it back in first and drove off. Whoops. Whoops up #2 I accidentally tapped my brakes on a point by (that also got bitched about) and got sworn at by another driver once I got into the Paddock on my last session.  Yeah, I know I'm not supposed to do this but holy smokes don't come running up to me and go "What the gently caress were you doing?"So checklist: Brakes: Check. Tires: Check. Cooling: Check. Belts: Need to reloop? I got bitched about my belt looping despite copying the schroth way. Whatever. Drivetrain: Check. Engine: I need to have this professionally done at this point. I can't afford to mess up another day, and road racing speeds are way too high and for way too long for me to be doing it on the street at this point. If I had a MoTeC or AEM or something that did onboard datalogging, I'd have more of a chance to hammer it down, but for now I need to get rid of the crappy cams + china intercooler, and have the car really well tuned for WOT 4th gear non stop. I'm tired now, I'll post photos or something later. Octopus Magic fucked around with this message at 05:17 on Sep 30, 2014 |
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Sep 30, 2014 05:13
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| # ? Apr 24, 2024 06:51 |
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Octopus Magic posted:So here comes the big doosey: The car kept on breaking up at WOT. If it's stuttering at WOT, wouldn't that point to fuel and/or ignition? Don't blame the hard parts for being hard parts! Tune definitely sounds like it's in order, though. (Side note: I did have a hard part cause a WOT stumble before -- divorced downpipe interference with the wastegate flapper just enough to get the flapper to stick and the ECU to wonder wtf and shut stuff down for a fraction of a second.)
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Sep 30, 2014 11:32
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Brian Crower cams can wildly vary between 1 to 3 degrees off center. This can cause ignition issues.
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Sep 30, 2014 13:13
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Start simple and close down the plug gaps a bit?
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Sep 30, 2014 20:41
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^What he said.^ Wildly un-degreed cams won't cause a stutter (ask me how I know.) Really fat mixes have caused stutters at WOT for me. Lean can do the same but it'd probably be dead by now if that was the case. I always ran .029 on my stock coils until I got into really stupid boost as in 27+psi then gapped smaller. You need to go version 3 and have it tuned. Otherwise but doubtful your coil or power transistor is dieing. Everyone has an occasional oops at an event, just can't let it get to you.
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Oct 1, 2014 03:11
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Dropped the car off on Saturday at dynotechtuning for a full V3 tune on 27-ish psi, get the Apexi FMIC installed (I can't do the pipework myself), put an EVO9 oil filter housing on with the forward facing filter and integrated oil cooler lines, and generally get the car to where it should be. I'm skipping the cams for now, I'd rather just have the car run right, then later do the cams myself. If things go well within the next few weeks, I'm going to start doing body work in the spring.
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Oct 20, 2014 19:10
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Somewhat on topic...I decided to look up evos today and they're still at ridiculous prices (10k minimum) for clapped out VIIIs with 100k+ miles, and tons of mods. That's here in the rust belt where they're probably shittier than the rest of the country, too. How much worse is the handling in a 2g in comparison? I've never driven one but an evo would make a fun track day car but it's just too much drat money for what you get. I should know from this thread that I shouldn't try to track a 2g either. 
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Oct 29, 2014 23:43
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Larrymer posted:Somewhat on topic...I decided to look up evos today and they're still at ridiculous prices (10k minimum) for clapped out VIIIs with 100k+ miles, and tons of mods. That's here in the rust belt where they're probably shittier than the rest of the country, too. How much worse is the handling in a 2g in comparison? I've never driven one but an evo would make a fun track day car but it's just too much drat money for what you get. You know there's a DSM/EVO thread, right? Probably a better place than a goon's build thread.
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Oct 31, 2014 01:32
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Larrymer posted:Somewhat on topic...I decided to look up evos today and they're still at ridiculous prices (10k minimum) for clapped out VIIIs with 100k+ miles, and tons of mods. That's here in the rust belt where they're probably shittier than the rest of the country, too. How much worse is the handling in a 2g in comparison? I've never driven one but an evo would make a fun track day car but it's just too much drat money for what you get. Once you hammer out the issues with 2Gs, they can be pretty competent against EVOs. The problem is that you have to be willing to invest some time + effort, because the EVO out of the box is just really good at being a reliable, well behaved track car. The hood's already vented, it has a powerful good turbo, ACD + AYC makes you into driving Gran Turismo, big brakes stock, stiffer chassis, better seats stock, lighter suspension components, external oil cooler.... I mean once you start modding and going down a dirty route, you can give an Evo/STI a run for its money, but they end up being roughly the same price, once you prep it well enough. Then again, it's going to take some effort to find the "right" 2G. Worthy of note, many moons ago, in my less powerful 2G T28 turbo'd car, I managed to be only 2 seconds behind an EVO2 (still on a "Big" 16G). Granted we were both on street tires, and maybe his were worse than my lovely Azenis, but consider the fact that an EVO2 weighed in around 2600 pounds, and my 2G Eclipse had about 3000 minimum with pad knock back, I think it did pretty well, and probably would've gotten more competitive with some better tires/dropped some more weight.
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Oct 31, 2014 06:22
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MikeyTsi posted:You know there's a DSM/EVO thread, right? Yes, well aware. He tracks his which is why I wanted to ask him rather than the general audience. Go back to your build thread and finish your car.  Thanks for the info, OM.
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Oct 31, 2014 15:16
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If you're serious about a 2G, this looks like a good deal: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1999-eclipse-gsx-nyc.483728/ Put an external oil cooler on it, some good pads, and you could run all day and upgrade to some decent coilovers down the road.
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Oct 31, 2014 16:36
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Updates: Car got dynoed on 93: Has some 4th gear knock he's going to look into. 386 all wheel isn't bad for pump, I'm more concerned keeping reliability. quote:Started tuning on Sat, everything went well, Car makes about 385 hp 340 tq not pushing it too hard. Started to tune 4th gear and the car looses power due to knock, I would assume its phantom knock because its fine in 3rd gear. Just wanted to give you a heads up on the progress. I will use my knock listening device to confirm this. I will have to take the car off the dyno to install this and then put back on dyno.
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Nov 18, 2014 19:15
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Who makes a dyno plot and doesn't put RPM on the X axis?  Nice numbers.
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Nov 18, 2014 22:58
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| # ? Apr 24, 2024 06:51 |
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Larrymer posted:Who makes a dyno plot and doesn't put RPM on the X axis? I HATE Mustang dynos. Those readouts are junk.
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Nov 19, 2014 03:48
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