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What the hell? Who turns away work because its "too rusty", that's the weirdest thing.
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Mar 1, 2012 19:49
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| # ? Apr 26, 2024 15:46 |
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One that would take an hour alone to remove the wheels apparently.
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Mar 1, 2012 20:04
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Buy a case of PB and hose it down?
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Mar 1, 2012 20:05
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Octopus Magic posted:I don't know what I'm going to do at this point. ART CAR!! 
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Mar 1, 2012 20:06
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So how many Sockingtons of rust is it, really, and have you had your tetanus shots recently? Of course sometimes cars rust in ways that are just obnoxious. The outer halfshaft of my MS3 was completely fused to the hub, which meant that what should've been a simple wheel bearing replacement now included a new halfshaft, hub, and spindle. The body is completely dry and clean, not even a speck of rust on anything, but the hubs rust like nothing I've ever seen. Any time a brake rotor comes off I need a big loving hammer.
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Mar 1, 2012 20:15
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It's the neglect kind of rust that sucks. The engine needs to be pulled and all the gaskets redone, stuff like that. It's about making the car reliable enough to do track events, rather than just slamming it together for "good enough" stuff. :\
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Mar 1, 2012 20:31
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IOwnCalculus posted:So how many Sockingtons of rust is it, really, and have you had your tetanus shots recently? The fact that he's become a unit of measure is the best thing to happen in AI pretty much ever. Octopus Magic posted:Well gently caress me, the shop I towed it over to doesn't want to work on it. The undercarriage/engine bay apparently is too rusted from 5 years of storage.... You're gonna have to jack it up and start tearing into it. My buddy bought an Eclipse last year and due to under body rust it's been on jack stands for upwards of 8 months now. It sucks but unless you want to junk it you have no other choice.
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Mar 1, 2012 20:46
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I really don't have the time/space for working on it at this point (which is the whole point I brought it over to a shop) so I think I might just try to part what I can get out of it and hang up my race gloves.
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Mar 1, 2012 20:49
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Octopus Magic posted:I really don't have the time/space for working on it at this point (which is the whole point I brought it over to a shop) so I think I might just try to part what I can get out of it and hang up my race gloves. That's not how we want to see this thread end!
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Mar 1, 2012 20:50
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Something that can actually go on jack stands can't be that rusty underneath.
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Mar 1, 2012 20:50
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InitialDave posted:Something that can actually go on jack stands can't be that rusty underneath. My friend's car has rusted so badly they can't get anything free. They've been cutting a few bits every couple weeks in their spare time. The chassis is fine but everything attached to it is rusted tight.
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Mar 1, 2012 20:53
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Rhyno posted:My friend's car has rusted so badly they can't get anything free. They've been cutting a few bits every couple weeks in their spare time. The chassis is fine but everything attached to it is rusted tight. This is pretty much my imagined reason. I'm going to guess in the 5 years of not moving, every bolt has probably seized or is very unhappy where it is right now. I didn't think it was that bad, but I really don't want the car breaking when I'm at the track, and the fact that the guys who run this shop are some of my personal friends means that poo poo is hosed.
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Mar 1, 2012 21:23
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Octopus Magic posted:This is pretty much my imagined reason. I'm going to guess in the 5 years of not moving, every bolt has probably seized or is very unhappy where it is right now. poo poo, if guys you're tight with won't touch it I guess it's done for. Unless you can fill a swimming pool with PB Blaster.
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Mar 1, 2012 21:28
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Either that or they don't want to burn through 7 grand of labor to go through every bolt. 
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Mar 1, 2012 21:40
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Buy an Evo.
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Mar 1, 2012 22:55
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Das Volk posted:Buy an Evo. This is the uncool solution
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Mar 1, 2012 23:06
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Nodoze posted:This is the uncool solution Probably be cheaper in the long run.
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Mar 1, 2012 23:07
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Cut everything off and tube frame it.
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Mar 1, 2012 23:09
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I want to see pictures of this rust. Yes some bolts will probably snap due to rust. That's going to happen with any car that age. I snapped a bolt out of the fender on my Talon when I took it off. I plan on drilling it out and replacing it, not scrapping the car.
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Mar 2, 2012 00:07
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Agreed. I've resurrected some pretty rusty crap, and I snap bolts pretty much every time I touch something new. I can't believe this thing is THAT bad.
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Mar 2, 2012 00:14
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BoostCreep posted:I want to see pictures of this rust. Yes some bolts will probably snap due to rust. That's going to happen with any car that age. I snapped a bolt out of the fender on my Talon when I took it off. I plan on drilling it out and replacing it, not scrapping the car. I'm running into the same thing with a couple of bolts under the engine on my corolla. What do you mean "drill it out"? I plan using a broken bolt extractor with tons of pb blaster to get the bolts out, but it sounds like you have a different approach.
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Mar 2, 2012 00:15
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I really didn't think it was that bad. The rear swaybar was pretty drat rusty, the exhaust had a bit of surface rust, but then again, I wasn't the one trying to pull the car apart myself. I think it's a "I don't want to deal with this disasterpiece" kind of issue. What really sucks is that I spent about a good 150-200 to have the car towed over there, only to be told that it was too rusty to work on. I'm kinda pissed.
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Mar 2, 2012 00:18
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Maybe I'll just drag the car back to my parents, take a week off work, start working on it at their place like every good DSM'er. gently caress 'em.
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Mar 2, 2012 00:20
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Octopus Magic posted:Maybe I'll just drag the car back to my parents, take a week off work, start working on it at their place like every good DSM'er. gently caress 'em. This is what you need to do
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Mar 2, 2012 00:36
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Octopus Magic posted:Maybe I'll just drag the car back to my parents, take a week off work, start working on it at their place like every good DSM'er. gently caress 'em. Right on brother.
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Mar 2, 2012 01:21
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Octopus Magic posted:Maybe I'll just drag the car back to my parents, take a week off work, start working on it at their place like every good DSM'er. gently caress 'em. That's what I said with my Conquest, 6 years ago.
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Mar 2, 2012 01:26
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Sushi The Kid posted:That's what I said with my Conquest, 6 years ago. This is also my other scary thought.
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Mar 2, 2012 01:32
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Octopus Magic posted:Maybe I'll just drag the car back to my parents, take a week off work, start working on it at their place like every good DSM'er. gently caress 'em. Do it. Just take your time and do it right and you'll save a shitload, you would have paid out the rear end in labor.
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Mar 2, 2012 01:51
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Das Volk posted:Buy an Evo. nth vote here. It's a better platform anyway.
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Mar 2, 2012 01:52
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Well I found this: http://youturd.com/kb_00023_2G_Turbo_FWD_bolt_wizard.htm and I have this: http://www.jegs.com/v/ARP/070 and also this: http://www.jnztuning.com/ hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
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Mar 2, 2012 17:44
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Octopus Magic posted:and also this: I don't think JNZ bikini bottoms are going to do the trick.
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Mar 2, 2012 18:50
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keykey posted:I don't think JNZ bikini bottoms are going to do the trick. It depends on the man / woman (depending on your preference) that's wearing them while helping you. PitViper posted:Agreed. I've resurrected some pretty rusty crap, and I snap bolts pretty much every time I touch something new. I can't believe this thing is THAT bad. Seriously, this. It really can't be that rusty - bolts break, things happen. When I did the clutch and rear end on my '91 Toyota pickup, two of the crossmember bolts broke and I had to replace ALL of the u-bolts holding the old tube on. Which, by the way, you can't purchase new, you have to source used ones or do what I did, get longer u-bolts for lift blocks and cut them down to size. When I bought my '86 2wd, I had to fabricate a new crossmember from scratch for the gas tank, replace the tank itself and run all new gas lines. Not to mention all the frame welding and brake line replacement on both trucks.. When my E30 318is sat for 3 years in similar circumstances to the ops car, (a wet environment, concrete floor with no ventilation) a brake line popped the first time I drove it. These things happen and "bad" rust is completely subjective. Op - I think, unless you've looked at it yourself thoroughly, your "friends" just don't encounter rust very often and chickened out. Do NOT get discouraged. That's a very pretty car you have there and you won't forgive yourself if you give up. Brigdh posted:I'm running into the same thing with a couple of bolts under the engine on my corolla. What do you mean "drill it out"? I plan using a broken bolt extractor with tons of pb blaster to get the bolts out, but it sounds like you have a different approach. Extractors or EZ-outs are utterly worthless when dealing with rusted in hardware. What I assume he means is literally drill out the majority of the bolt material and re-tap the threads. This is often the only way when heat and PB-Blaster (I prefer deep-creep these days) fail. Not to derail, but "Raise the titanic" is a really horrible pulp novel involving clearing corpses that mysteriously remain undisturbed in the beds of the ship so that the protagonists can have sex.
ACEofsnett fucked around with this message at 20:34 on Mar 2, 2012 |
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Mar 2, 2012 20:30
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Octopus Magic posted:Maybe I'll just drag the car back to my parents, take a week off work, start working on it at their place like every good DSM'er. gently caress 'em. Atta Boy.
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Mar 2, 2012 20:34
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Excuse me, but Clive Cussler was an unappreciated genius of our time. Like I said earlier, I think their way of thinking was that they would have to spend more than what the car was worth in labor to get it where I want it to be. Octopus Magic fucked around with this message at 20:41 on Mar 2, 2012 |
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Mar 2, 2012 20:36
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When I sold my 1G Eclipse the body was rusted through in several spots, the rear end of the frame was rusted out and fell apart to the touch and whenever I tried to unbolt something the bolt would inevitably snap in half. I'd love a 1G GSX but I'm going to have to pay a premium to find one in New England that isn't a total rust bucket. I feel your pain.
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Mar 2, 2012 22:13
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Octopus Magic posted:Like I said earlier, I think their way of thinking was that they would have to spend more than what the car was worth in labor to get it where I want it to be. It kinda makes sense when running a shop, they're just covering their rear end because it always ends up costing more than originally estimated. They were probably worried that halfway through with the car in pieces you'd back out after seeing the labor bill. Not sure where you live, but have you considered moving into a place where you could work on it? It's nice having a project right outside your door to gently caress with whenever you have the spare time, even if it's just little poo poo here and there.
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Mar 3, 2012 02:43
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I was just thinking out loud here, one of the things they weren't happy with was the wheel bearings/axle interface with the rust going on there, my thought is to get some used suspension hubs, new wheel bearings all around, and new axles all around so it's a direct bolt in with the rest of the suspension. It would also ease my worries on a new shell on wheel bearing condition. Edit; Moving unfortunately is not an option. Octopus Magic fucked around with this message at 02:52 on Mar 3, 2012 |
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Mar 3, 2012 02:50
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I found this on my phone, this is the level of rust we're dealing with:
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Mar 3, 2012 06:05
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Did the car spend that much time damp inside and out?
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Mar 3, 2012 07:51
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| # ? Apr 26, 2024 15:46 |
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Eh, that's only a quarter to a third of a Sockington you got there. Should be easy 
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Mar 3, 2012 08:00
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