|
So thanks to craigslist, lots of local flea markets, and my MY GIRLFRIEND, I've acquired a good bit of crap that needs to be restored, repaired, or repainted (or all of the above), and since It generated some interest in the Tome of Antiquities, I thought I'd make a thread about me doing what I do worst, ruining antique crap forever. So, here goes nothing. Our first item is a vintage Nesco Roaster oven + cabinet accessory.  Luckily for this particular item, everything already worked on it, so it was mostly a case of just strip it down, and repaint. (And clean up the electrical contacts)  And then I shot with some Appliance epoxy, cleaned up the metal bits as best I could and boom, good as new!  So, good job rear end in a top hat, you repainted a tin can, go hog wild. Well, I have a bit more to this thread that just this, here's the current lineup of things that need restoring. The 1950's Craftsman table saw:    Now this currently works, with the exception of the motor, which needs to be rewired. As for the saw body and workings, I would like to tear down and rebuild the thing, give it a new coat of paint and chase all the rust out of the inside. If nothing else it needs to be repainted. I have all the extra bits for this too (rip fence, miter gauge, and extensions) and they all need to be repainted/de-rustified too. Item number three: The Belt/Disc sander:  I got this for free with the saw, and it works just fine, but I'd like to at least give it a new coat of paint. (And hopefully not break it in the process) And finally, in mid-restoration form, the early 40's Craftsman grinder!   Luckily for this one, It has the motor and everything (Currently in use on the saw) and mostly just needs some new paint. I would like to replace the wire/power switch on the motor though, as it is currently just a light switch. Now for some Q and A. Why the hell do you have so many old tools/why they hell do you want to fix them? :pysduck: Well, basically, because they're cheap. That and the long(er) answer is, I think they're better than most modern tools. I like older tools because they seem to be built better, and with higher quality. It really says something about quality (to me anyways) if a tool can still be alive and kicking like the day it was build after 50 years. I don't buy nothing but old tools, as they do have a lot of drawbacks (and Oh boy do they), but I will seek them out over newer ones most of the time. Not that old tools are all that great by certain standards. They do have a lot of flaws. They take up a huge amount of space, they weigh a poo poo-ton (That saw is like 200lbs) and most of the time they require a lot of TLC and money to get back to decent condition, but really, I can overlook the flaws and enjoy what I have. Any particular brands you like? Craftsman. If I'm looking for an old tool, this'll be my first choice. I guess I like they're reputation, and well they just seem like the classic American tool  If you have any questions, feel free to ask away. So let the fun begin!
|
| # ? Jan 18, 2012 03:19 |
|
|
|
| # ? May 20, 2013 05:33 |
|
|
So Project number one is (apparently) the saw. Apparently my dad decided to start tearing apart the motor while I was out, so I guess this is the best place to start! As it was:  As it is:   What's wrong with it? Well, for one, the Thermal breaker (Thing that keeps it from overheating) had tripped and gotten stuck. For two, the plug was wired wrong, and for three, the insulation around all the wires is dried out and flaking off.  So in the interests of not dieing in a fire, this thing is going to get some new wires.  And here's some of the motor's specs if anyone was interested.  I'm kind of on the fence about repainting the motor. It's paint is in decent shape, and I like the color. 
|
| # ? Jan 18, 2012 03:29 |
|
|
As someone who has a father collecting 50's and 60's era craftsman tools for a "retro" workshop, this thread interests me 
|
| # ? Jan 18, 2012 04:23 |
|
|
So far, I've done: This:  To this:  This:  To This:  And This:    Process:            Thinking about turning some new knobs and sawing some totes for the planes, since the old ones are pretty beat.
|
| # ? Jan 18, 2012 04:26 |
|
|
You had some pictures of old aluminum hand tools/drills/sanders etc in the other thread. What do you do to them to restore them? I tossed out a sheet sander because it basically did nothing, but I still have a drill. I wasn't thinking of using it as a drill, maybe as a lamp or similar instead. The brushes are pretty dead and it makes a lot of sparks when running. I'm not sure what I should do to make it look pretty.
|
| # ? Jan 18, 2012 17:47 |
|
|
I've got a few old power tools that I use because it's all I can afford: table saw, radial arm saw, small bench drill press. I don't make them pretty but I do make them functional. I'd love to hear more about cleaning methods. I've got an old cast iron unbranded 9 inch bandsaw that is in pretty sad shape, and a bunch of old rusty hand tools and drill bits from my grandfather. How do you clean things if the paint is in good shape, just dirty, greasy, grimy? How do you clean things if the paint needs to be removed entirely and redone? How do you remove light rust? Sanding, maybe with WD40? How do you remove bad rust? I've seen people doing the electrolysis method, but I didn't know about when I cleaned my cast iron table saw so I just went at it with wire cup brush on an angle grinder.
|
| # ? Jan 18, 2012 18:34 |
|
|
Mineral spirits works well for grime and dirt. It will dull glossy paint sometimes, though. Light rust can be removed with WD40 and steel wool. Slightly heavier WD40 and sandpaper. Everything else can usually be done with complete submersion electrolysis. Given time it'll remove all rust, and almost always works it's way under paint and bubbles that away as well. Cleaning in hard to reach places can be done with handled wire brushes and cup brushes in a drill. To do bits and shafts etc, use a fine brass wheel on a stationary grinder. I use vice grips to keep my hands away from the wheel.
|
| # ? Jan 18, 2012 19:38 |
|
|
Well, I started out trying to clean up the top side, and ended up tearing the whole saw apart today. Oh well, at least it came apart easy enough.  The top was very easy to take off, it's only held on by 8 bolts, and then the blade workings are just bolted to the top.  And here's the inner working. I think these could do with a good wire wheeling. They're in pretty good shape for the most part though.   So now we're left with a big metal box full of sawdust, and a cart. Let's see how much further this can go.   Aaaand right after I took this picture, it started raining. So I guess that's for now. All of the body parts, with the exception of the front plate will all be stripped and repainted, and I'm thinking of hitting the top up with some POR-15. Cpt.Wacky posted:How do you clean things if the paint is in good shape, just dirty, greasy, grimy? 1.Soap and water, or a little bit of mineral spirits seems to do the trick. 2.3M Abrasive pads for either an angle grinder or drill, and if it's really on there, Aircraft remover is your friend too. 3. High grit sandpaper and some WD40, yes. Maybe some light steel wool 4. Bad rust, it depends. Electrolysis works the best, and will get ALL of it off. (It also works fantastically for getting paint off.) But barring that, wire wheels, abrasive pads, sanding, and naval jelly will work, it's just a lot more effort.
|
| # ? Jan 18, 2012 20:03 |
|
|
Cool, I wasn't aware of the 3M abrasive pads. Seeing your table saw taken apart makes me want to go back and clean mine up properly again. How do you do your painting? Surely not from a spray can, but some sort of HVLP setup?
|
| # ? Jan 18, 2012 21:15 |
|
|
ExplodingSims, I have that exact same belt sander so if you need any measurements or info for anything shoot me a PM. Otherwise, looks like you did a good job on stuff!
|
| # ? Jan 19, 2012 02:43 |
|
|
Oh man, be careful with that wire wheel! Research Boeshield T9. It is sold at Sears and is AMAZING for machine tools! We have half our shop coated in it!
|
| # ? Jan 19, 2012 05:47 |
|
|
I'm going to help my family clean out my grandmother's garage, sheds, and yard on Saturday, since they haven't really been touched since my grandfather died in 2004. He used to work in the metal shop at the Navy Yard, and apparently a lot of stuff that "went missing" ended up in the garage and sheds, so I'm hoping to have a few things to contribute in here soon
|
| # ? Jan 19, 2012 17:46 |
|
|
Cross-Oldpost from the Tools! AI thread. Here's a cleanup job I did on a compressor I got on the cheap. I was really worried about negative effects of painting the motor & cylinder, but after the other stuff I just couldn't leave them be. Still runs great.      
|
| # ? Jan 19, 2012 23:23 |
|
|
This thread is awesome, keep up the work. Can someone link the more detailed electrolytic rust removal description?
|
| # ? Jan 20, 2012 03:43 |
|
|
Low-Pass Filter posted:This thread is awesome, keep up the work. Maybe those guys have a better link but this one should get you started: http://www.instructables.com/id/Ele...oval-aka-Magic/
|
| # ? Jan 20, 2012 15:55 |
|
|
Well, the saw's almost done! As soon as the paint dries I can reassemble the whole thing! In the meantime, have a painting montage: Bare Metal:   [Insert Primer Shot here] And the finished product!   I did change up the paint scheme a little bit, Originally it was all the dark blueish grey color, but I like the way this looks better. Also, massive thanks to the local Sherwin-Williams, as the matched the old color perfectly. If anyone needs the paint codes for that Craftsman grey-ish color, I'll be happy to post them And in the middle of that I also sent the extensions and table top through the electrolysis tub. Before:  Going in:  Coming out:  And after:  The tabletop and cleaned extensions I'll save for the final assembled shot I think. kafkasgoldfish posted:Maybe those guys have a better link but this one should get you started: That's the one I used, and it seems to be one of the better one's out there/ Cpt.Wacky posted:How do you do your painting? Surely not from a spray can, but some sort of HVLP setup? I use Spray guns for most of the bigger painting jobs, and then rattle cans for smaller things (Handles, bottoms, knobs, etc.) I have 2 Devilbiss Starting Line guns and a few cheapo ones from Lowes. Using the spray guns is kind of a pain in terms of set up and clean up, but I can't argue with the results. And if anyone's interested, here's my painting station: 
|
| # ? Jan 25, 2012 20:21 |
|
|
saw this on my local craigslist and thought you might be interested.. http://annapolis.craigslist.org/tls/2798079863.html
|
| # ? Jan 27, 2012 22:27 |
|
|
Veeb0rg posted:saw this on my local craigslist and thought you might be interested..  If only I lived in Pennsylvania, I would buy that in a heartbeat. I guess this is also a good a time as any to mention that the motor I had was toast. After my dad finished rewiring everything, well, it started shooting out sparks and smoking. It would seem that something is wrong with the coils inside, so yeah. One has popped up in a close-by-ish area, So I guess I'll have to get that, as shipping on is crazy expensive. Oh, also, this:     All done! Now I just need to find a motor. The new fence guide should be here soon, and if I can find on that's not crazy expensive, I'd like to get a new tilt knob/lever. But for now, I'm really happy with the way it looks and performs. Oh, and I bought a thing.... 
|
| # ? Jan 28, 2012 04:47 |
|
|
ExplodingSims posted:Oh, and I bought a thing.... Hey Craftsman bench grinder buddy, I just picked this guy up today at an estate sale for $15. Motor is a Delco 1/4 HP instead of Crafstman but it works. Belt is in terrible shape and the wiring looks like a severe fire hazard. Should be a fun little project.  
|
| # ? Jan 29, 2012 02:15 |
|
|
How fast is that top disk supposed to spin? Looks like it would be hilariously dangerous if it's high speed. Also that's pretty neat, never seen an axle with grinding wheels and a take off for a sharpening disk up top before. Cool idea.
|
| # ? Jan 30, 2012 21:12 |
|
|
I think the motor said 1425 RPM and the top disc definitely went slower than the grinding wheels, maybe half as fast? I don't think I'd use it for honing chisel since you've only got the one grit.
|
| # ? Jan 30, 2012 21:22 |
|
|
Top one's for plane irons
|
| # ? Jan 31, 2012 21:16 |
|
|
Cpt.Wacky posted:Hey Craftsman bench grinder buddy, I just picked this guy up today at an estate sale for $15. Motor is a Delco 1/4 HP instead of Crafstman but it works. Belt is in terrible shape and the wiring looks like a severe fire hazard. Should be a fun little project. Wow, I've never seen a grinder like that before. Not with the top piece anyways, nice find! Judging by the logo it looks like it should be from the late 30's to early 40's. Good luck with the resto, if you choose to do it. So anyways, even though the saw was technically done, I wasn't happy with the way the fence on it was looking, it was still kinda cloudy and dull looking, so, after work I decided to hit it up with some WD-40 and increasingly high grades of sandpaper, until, well....  This picture doesn't convey it particularity well, but you can actually see reflections in it very clearly. Is it a bit extreme for a saw? Yup. Oh, and I've mostly repainted the grinder, I'm going for the same color scheme as the saw. I still need to do the center piece and the eye shields though. 
|
| # ? Feb 10, 2012 05:02 |
|
|
Cool thread, thanks to wormil for recommending it! And now, here's a cross-post from the woodworking thread: I just started a pretty big new project. Project Restore Saw Oh poo poo WHY DID I BUY THIS   Here's the gallery in progress, and I'll keep updates rolling in as they happen: https://plus.google.com/photos/1116...CJuksbOMltWM2AE Holler if you want to see any of my other shots, like that Delta scrollsaw or Robland X-31 re-builds. I'm not a very seasoned "restoration" guy, so for me, it's more about getting a working, high-quality tool for a low-low price. EDIT: I think the link's fixed... still new to the Google+ galleries! Cobalt60 fucked around with this message at Feb 22, 2012 around 02:22 |
| # ? Feb 22, 2012 01:00 |
|
|
Cobalt60 posted:Here's the gallery in progress, and I'll keep updates rolling in as they happen: 403. That’s an error. We're sorry, but you do not have access to this page. That’s all we know. 
|
| # ? Feb 22, 2012 01:04 |
|
|
Well, buttfucking dick-shits I dropped it. That is all for now.
|
| # ? Mar 12, 2012 21:32 |
|
|
No!!! you should be able to go get it welded up though.
|
| # ? Mar 14, 2012 14:26 |
|
|
is that cast aluminium or iron?
|
| # ? Mar 14, 2012 17:01 |
|
|
All cast iron. Everything. The dust doors weigh like 40 pounds, each side of the hinge. The body is really quite heavy. Add an unexpected rain storm while the paint was drying and maybe I can forgive myself for dropping the poor baby. The issue getting it welded is that the iron from this era ('39-'41) was simply different than iron is now, and few folks know how to properly handle it. Apparently, a bad weld can cause even more cracks at the weld site. I found a place north of Portland, though, and I hope to get up there Friday. Will update once it's all settled.
|
| # ? Mar 15, 2012 04:05 |
|
|
Cast Iron is a very very difficult to weld metal. It's a good thing you realize this and are taking it to a professional. There are guys who make a career out of just welding cast.
|
| # ? Mar 15, 2012 04:13 |
|
|
thecobra posted:Cast Iron is a very very difficult to weld metal. It's a good thing you realize this and are taking it to a professional. There are guys who make a career out of just welding cast. Just want to say this is the truth, and Cobalt60, you're doing the right thig. Had a neighbour break the leg off of a small cast iron stove. He took it to a local welder who can do regular/stainless steel, aluminum, and even really thin tin and sheet metal. He tried to weld it for about 3 seconds on the back of the leg where you'd never see it and then shook his head and told him to take it to a specialist. If you've never welded cast iron, you'd might as well try welding two pieces of saran wrap together.
|
| # ? Mar 15, 2012 16:05 |
|
|
Yeah, I did some reading on OWWM before I looked for a welder. All the local guys were totally, clearly, unseasoned in the ways of CI. On the first day of searching, the closest place I found was 6 hours away. Day 2 I found a more local place, 2 hours away. Hoping to get there soon, and I'll post pics when I get some progress going again. Thanks for the encouragement!
|
| # ? Mar 15, 2012 20:56 |
|
|
Well, it sucks that you broke it, but at least it can definitely be fixed. I think it's great you didn't just scrap it at that point. Good luck finding someone to fix it! I finally found something that I've been looking for for quite some time. It's not exactly the model I wanted, but it's close enough for now, so here it is: The 1955 Craftsman tool two part tool chest:   It's been poorly repainted twice, so at least the paint's coming off easily enough. The real pain in the dick with this thing is that the previous owner's grandpa decided to repaint it, and just went ahead and painted over the logos and handles, so getting those back to chormed might be tricky. Other than that, it feels like it's almost brand new. The drawers still glide in and out really smoothly.
|
| # ? Mar 16, 2012 14:51 |
|
|
Cobalt60 posted:All cast iron. Everything. The dust doors weigh like 40 pounds, each side of the hinge. The body is really quite heavy. Add an unexpected rain storm while the paint was drying and maybe I can forgive myself for dropping the poor baby. Wood bandsaw, correct? If they can't weld it, you could probably just drill some holes and 'splint' it with some angle iron. It'd be ugly as sin but it would hopefully still work alright. How much tension are those bandsaw blades under, anyway?
|
| # ? Mar 16, 2012 17:24 |
|
|
I did a little restoration myself last week. Electrolytic rust removal really is magic. Hopefully the BBQ paint can take the abuse. Before old and rusted  New hotness 
|
| # ? Mar 16, 2012 20:45 |
|
|
Ok, this is going to need some explaining.
|
| # ? Mar 16, 2012 22:28 |
|
|
Blistex posted:Ok, this is going to need some explaining. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ultraflight_Lazair I'll have to start an ultralight thread once I actually get closer to having it flying. The field should be ready by May.
|
| # ? Mar 16, 2012 23:20 |
|
|
Please do, that would be amazing. Also those props don't ride in line like that while in use, do they? Is the second blade a spare or do you re-bolt them into an x pattern while mounted?
|
| # ? Mar 16, 2012 23:42 |
|
|
Those props are mounted exactly as they are run. It turns out to work far better than it looks. This design originally flew with a smaller motor and back in the day R/C props were not available so the company designed those props and used a single one. When they moved to the larger engines that I have they needed a bigger prop but had difficulting making larger ones and decided to test a pair of the small ones. Mounting them in an X increases thrust by about 4% but doubles drag when the engine is stopped compared to mounting them biplane fashion. I'll start a thread in a month or so once I really start to get things ready.
|
| # ? Mar 16, 2012 23:59 |
|
|
|
| # ? May 20, 2013 05:33 |
|
|
It it just me or does the pitch on those props look exceptionally light? Do those engines run at a very high RPM and require that little pitch, or is the photo misleading? They seem to me to be almost flat.
|
| # ? Mar 17, 2012 03:56 |
|
