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1gnoirents posted:Not an answer sorry, but does your ram voltage have to be lower than VIN or CPU input voltage (or equivalent) in this case? RAM voltage is independent of CPU Vcore, but I'm worried that I've already damaged the RAM or memory controller. I should have RMA'ed this RAM once it failed a memtest and OCZ was still honoring warranties, but I just bumped the voltage .1V and figured I'd RMA it later. This is the first stepping of Phenom II 965 as well, with a 140W TDP and a known weak memory controller. Part of the reason I used DDR2 is that this CPU cannot support 4 DIMMs of DDR3. I don't really mind if it dies, but I would be tickled if it lasted until desktop Broadwell is out. I only built with this cursed CPU because it was handed to me free at Quakecon in '09.
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Jul 24, 2014 16:52
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I mean vrin, not vcore. I was curious of AMD worked that way. Imo if your computer is incapable of running as it sits, and its not worth buying new parts for, and there is a free option that may or may not destroy it but enable it to work for a little while longer, I know what I'd do.
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Jul 24, 2014 17:13
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Welmu posted:A custom water loop is a pretty fun project with definite benefits and when well done is mostly maintenance-free: I've been running a loop for almost five years (i7-975 & GTX 285) and the only maintenance I've ever had to do was topping the reservoir twice yearly. My rig runs quiet, overclocks well, and keeps significantly cooler than any air setup could possible hope to. Do you run a block on your GPU, as well? Welmu posted:Isn't a 770 enough for a 24" display? It should be enough for the two 24" displays I run. I was planning on putting a water block on a 770 to incorporate into my loop, to which some goons said there are already cooling optimized ones but it would seem sort-of a waste to build a custom loop without the graphics card incorporated. Especially running two radiators.
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Jul 24, 2014 21:24
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If you really want a 770 then just get a AIO for your CPU and save a tooon of money. Or use that money to get a 780ti  Or like I said if you just want something fun to do and badass by all means go for it, but if you're on the fence at all...
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Jul 24, 2014 21:29
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Twerk from Home posted:I know that this is a stupid question about ancient hardware, but I've got a Phenom II machine with DDR2 that's blue screening, and I'm fairly confident the memory is bad. It failed Memtest 2 years ago at stock settings so I just bumped the memory voltage to 2.0V. The memory has a lifetime warranty, but it's OCZ which is no longer honoring warranties. Have you tried lowering the frequency, or loosening the timings, of the RAM instead of raising the voltage? What are the DIMMs actually rated for in terms of voltage?
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Jul 24, 2014 22:44
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In an old system I have OCZ Reaper DDR2-1066 that was intended to run at that speed at 2.1V, but they suggested starting at a lower voltage and going up. They have heatpipes  . Mine are still okay but if I had a problem I'd probably drop it down to 800mhz and 1.8v which is the base level non-overclocked speeds IIRC.
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Jul 25, 2014 00:51
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 Anybody mind telling me if this looks safe? Just had to replace a dead PSU and changed to an mITX case that took hours screwing around to get stuff to fit so trying for a conservative OC that I don't want to risk having to ever open this case up again because of a dead mobo/cpu.
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Jul 25, 2014 09:22
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Null1fy posted:Do you run a block on your GPU, as well? Null1fy posted:It should be enough for the two 24" displays I run. I was planning on putting a water block on a 770 to incorporate into my loop, to which some goons said there are already cooling optimized ones but it would seem sort-of a waste to build a custom loop without the graphics card incorporated. Especially running two radiators.
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Jul 25, 2014 11:47
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Midnight City posted:
If that is stable that is full on conservative overclock and safe. Sometimes factory voltages are higher than that for boost. If anything looks "weird" its that the cache voltage is probably at a moderate level you'd more likely see when vcore is higher, or cache frequency is higher, or if it was being used to stabilize. It's not high at all though and no reason to even touch it imo, especially if its there for a reason. As long as your temperatures are good but even with the factory Intel cooler I 1.2 volts was always fine for real use temperatures in my experience
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Jul 25, 2014 16:18
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What is considered a good overclock on the G3258? I used the stock cooler with NT-H1 paste, with Prime95 Blend the chip ran stable at 4.5ghz with no overvolt around 87 Celsius. I also got it to keep stable at 4.6ghz but it was hitting 90c maybe once a minute. I take it that means I could get a little higher with a 212 Evo? I figure the diminishing returns hit pretty hard past where I am now.
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Jul 30, 2014 06:34
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Zero VGS posted:What is considered a good overclock on the G3258? Toms got to 4.8GHz with a Noctua U12S and 4.4GHz on stock with temps in the mid 80s. So, an EVO may get you a little more, but I'd be shocked if you got more than 200/300 MHz. Assuming you spent $100-120 on the CPU/MB, you'd be dropping 25% more $s for ~7% more MHz. You're well into diminishing returns.
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Jul 30, 2014 06:38
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Peanut3141 posted:Toms got to 4.8GHz with a Noctua U12S and 4.4GHz on stock with temps in the mid 80s. So, an EVO may get you a little more, but I'd be shocked if you got more than 200/300 MHz. Assuming you spent $100-120 on the CPU/MB, you'd be dropping 25% more $s for ~7% more MHz. You're well into diminishing returns. OK yeah, I got the CPU and the motherboard for $99 at Microcenter, I'll quit while I'm ahead then, heh.
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Jul 30, 2014 06:44
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Peanut3141 posted:Toms got to 4.8GHz with a Noctua U12S and 4.4GHz on stock with temps in the mid 80s. So, an EVO may get you a little more, but I'd be shocked if you got more than 200/300 MHz. Assuming you spent $100-120 on the CPU/MB, you'd be dropping 25% more $s for ~7% more MHz. You're well into diminishing returns. He is already at 4.5, although says no overvolt (I assume it must be autovolting). $35 more would put him at $135 for - assuming all is well with the current configuration - 4.7 or so with blend if I had to guess. Diminishing returns if we're talking value for the dollar here... don't start for a while. But literally so, for sure. Being dual core and the fact it uses raw speed to overcome not being hyperthreaded I personally think its worth at least an evo. Zero if you haven't updated your bios the cache voltage and vcore are locked together for some reason (maybe if you just try to set it manually, I dont know) until you get the new version. Also what is your vcore? Do you plan on manually setting that? I'd be pleased as hell though if it were actually stable at 4.5 as it sit. If it's truly stable at 4.6 hitting 90 degrees isn't going to kill it either. I'd make sure realistic loads were below 80 for sure. Play games on it. Its hilarious
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Jul 30, 2014 07:32
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1gnoirents posted:He is already at 4.5, although says no overvolt (I assume it must be autovolting). $35 more would put him at $135 for - assuming all is well with the current configuration - 4.7 or so with blend if I had to guess. Diminishing returns if we're talking value for the dollar here... don't start for a while. But literally so, for sure. Being dual core and the fact it uses raw speed to overcome not being hyperthreaded I personally think its worth at least an evo. Paying $135 for 4.8 GHz vs $100 for 4.5 GHz. That's paying 35% more money for 7% more performance. That's like textbook diminishing returns: "progressively smaller rises in output resulting from the increased application of a variable input, such as labour, to a fixed quantity, as of capital or land"
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Jul 30, 2014 07:38
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Yes it is literally diminishing returns by definition... but there is a point where it is an impractical way to measure worth or value imo compared to similar performance with other setups. Anyways though I'd be happy at 4.5ghz on the stock hsf. Frankly 4.6 at 90*C on the stock HSF is worth buying an Evo for just to see how far you could get with what is otherwise a budget cooler
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Jul 30, 2014 07:42
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1gnoirents posted:Yes it is literally diminishing returns by definition... but there is a point where it is an impractical way to measure worth or value imo compared to similar performance with other setups. Anyways though I'd be happy at 4.5ghz on the stock hsf. Frankly 4.6 at 90*C on the stock HSF is worth buying an Evo for just to see how far you could get with what is otherwise a budget cooler If you personally feel it's a good value proposition to drive a ways into diminishing returns, that's fine; but don't try to redefine terms to justify your opinion.
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Jul 30, 2014 07:48
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Peanut3141 posted:If you personally feel it's a good value proposition to drive a ways into diminishing returns, that's fine; but don't try to redefine terms to justify your opinion. I will call it "overall system value" or "reality"
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Jul 30, 2014 08:11
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1gnoirents posted:Zero if you haven't updated your bios the cache voltage and vcore are locked together for some reason (maybe if you just try to set it manually, I dont know) until you get the new version. Also what is your vcore? Do you plan on manually setting that? I already updated the bios to that newest Anniversary CPU specific thingy. I then just manually set that one field to "46". So it is auto overvolting then? I don't think I should be overvolting manually or I'd be breaking 90c all the time probably. quote:Play games on it. Its hilarious That's the plan, I built the PC for a friend and tossed in one of my $250 R9 290's. I'll probably leave things at 4.5ghz to make sure it is stable, I don't want any support calls from my friend.
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Jul 30, 2014 16:10
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Zero VGS posted:I already updated the bios to that newest Anniversary CPU specific thingy. I then just manually set that one field to "46". So it is auto overvolting then? I don't think I should be overvolting manually or I'd be breaking 90c all the time probably. It's auto volting. All that means is that you can probably reduce the temperatures a bit by finding the voltage it can run at but since it is for someone else I'd also just leave it slightly conservative with auto everything. I've never seen blend-like temperatures (at least, after 15 minutes in) for gaming anyways Haha, a 290. It's going to be stupid good for the cost of parts edit: Well... I actually hate auto voltage so I wouldn't personally do that but practically speaking it will be easier and less time consuming that way for you 1gnoirents fucked around with this message at 16:46 on Jul 30, 2014 |
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Jul 30, 2014 16:44
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My PC came with a build in overclocking tool (picture below). Looks like I can just increase the CPU ratio from the default x34 all the way to x41, should I? I'm somewhat concerned as the tool is reporting a voltage of 3.~V even without adjustments, when the OP states 1.38V as the "safe" value, though I have used it without issues for years.  http://i.imgur.com/yXYdXNY.jpg
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Jul 30, 2014 17:33
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Avalerion posted:My PC came with a build in overclocking tool (picture below). Looks like I can just increase the CPU ratio from the default x34 all the way to x41, should I? I'm somewhat concerned as the tool is reporting a voltage of 3.~V even without adjustments, when the OP states 1.38V as the "safe" value, though I have used it without issues for years. One of those voltages is for... the CMOS battery lol. I dont even know what the others are The voltage you're looking for is vcore or VID. If its not there, download CPU-Z Looks like you're already at 4200 mhz though x42
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Jul 30, 2014 17:46
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1gnoirents posted:One of those voltages is for... the CMOS battery lol. I dont even know what the others are Thanks, I'll download that. The number you are referring to actually seems to change constantly without any input from me, jumps between 39 to 42 at random. The value I can set is below under the Overclock header. Avalerion fucked around with this message at 18:51 on Jul 30, 2014 |
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Jul 30, 2014 18:48
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I did see that but I assumed you were running at 4200 because of the above box. If its changing a lot that's due to load. CPU-Z is a more standard way to view it in Windows (I do not know what erazer is). Say if you auto tuned in the past and it settled on x42 as its overclock it won't necessarily tell you that in the overclock box since thats "manual". I guess
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Jul 30, 2014 19:49
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Got CPU-Z and it confirms the CPU ratio set through Erazer gets applied, the cores do tick higher on occasion on both tools but not lower than what I set. Voltage on CPU-Z is also fine, thanks for the advice.
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Jul 30, 2014 20:58
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To answer your original question, yes thats all you basically need to do. But slowly and one by one, and monitor temperature and voltage while you stress test it (simple fast test is IBT, this will make your computer get way hotter than normal so keep that in mind) If you dont feel like messing with voltages you dont have to but you wont get the most out of it (and sometimes you seriously really totally wont) and it can introduce instability depending on how good the auto voltage works. Also it can run hotter than it needs to. But its easier just to do the multiplier
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Jul 30, 2014 21:33
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Cheers again, looks like I can pull off x35-x36 without any issue so I'll stick to that for now. One more quick question: http://i.imgur.com/KIUjnot.jpg http://i.imgur.com/ELA004M.jpg. I'm guessing the metal thing with the blue label is a heat sink?
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Jul 31, 2014 19:02
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Avalerion posted:Cheers again, looks like I can pull off x35-x36 without any issue so I'll stick to that for now. Yes, and... does that have no fan
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Jul 31, 2014 20:07
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1gnoirents posted:Yes, and... does that have no fan There's a fan in there IIRC.
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Jul 31, 2014 20:15
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Not that I can see but I couldn't get a good look at the bottom/inside of the "tube". Edit: Right, guess what deimos said. ^
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Jul 31, 2014 20:17
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Oh like actually inside and vertical haha. I was about to say you have the best chip on the planet for a passive cooler that small If you're running into a thermal wall for overclocking I suggest start messing with vcore. I'd set it at 1.20 to start and see how fast you can get your multiplier before it crashes, then raise the voltage 0.01 and so on until you run out of thermal headroom. That way you get a lot more speed out of the same voltage, or "effort" would be an analogy, that the CPU is doing Also if you do so I'd recommend just doing it in the bios as well 1gnoirents fucked around with this message at 20:24 on Jul 31, 2014 |
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Jul 31, 2014 20:21
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Otaku Alpha Male posted:rip steve this is how we will always remeber u
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Jul 31, 2014 21:12
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Overclock your pancreas
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Jul 31, 2014 21:38
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1gnoirents posted:Also if you do so I'd recommend just doing it in the bios as well Won't let me, looks like can't even change the core ratio outside of using the tool huh. Dusting inside the case helped though! 
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Aug 1, 2014 20:10
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I made the switch to AMD because poorness and got a FX-4350 which is fairly disappointing, I had an Athlon X6 1090T and I'm pretty sure it was performing better even at a lower frequency but anyway. I had it OCed to 5Ghz stable for a while then my PSU burnt out (OCZ 900W so no surprise). I got another power supply (a better one) and now I can't OC at all, increasing bus speed and lowering ram and HT multipliers make it unstable as hell, it even crashes on desktop after booting, any tips ?
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Aug 2, 2014 18:43
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Return the AMD stuff, go to Micro Center, and get a Pentium G3258 and motherboard for $100.
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Aug 2, 2014 19:00
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Factory Factory posted:Return the AMD stuff, go to Micro Center, and get a Pentium G3258 and motherboard for $100. That would be a hell of a downgrade
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Aug 2, 2014 20:11
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Sh4 posted:That would be a hell of a downgrade You underestimate just how far AMD has fallen behind in their flagship product line. ninja edit: I should back that up with a chart, hang on E: here, the whole thing http://techreport.com/review/26735/overclocking-intel-pentium-g3258-anniversary-edition-processor/3 Sidesaddle Cavalry fucked around with this message at 20:21 on Aug 2, 2014 |
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Aug 2, 2014 20:18
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Sidesaddle Cavalry posted:You underestimate just how far AMD has fallen behind in their flagship product line. I know it sucks, my last AMD was an athlon xp 2400+ and the FX line does not have an amazing value compared to them but it's still decent value for money and I'm pretty sure it's better than that cheap pentium. I'm just kind of sad that I managed to run it at 5Ghz stable with cool n quiet enabled for a few months and now it's not going anymore. Now the best I can get without locking the multiplier (and losing CNQ) is 4.6  edit. On those benchmarks the pentium have a crazy OC and the FX-8350 is still better at stock speed, the 8350 (and 4350) are pretty easy to OC too Sh4 fucked around with this message at 20:30 on Aug 2, 2014 |
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Aug 2, 2014 20:27
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Just curious, what power supply did you get to replace the OCZ? Wonder if either it's not as good as the one that burned, or something else got hosed when the old one died.
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Aug 2, 2014 20:53
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Sh4 posted:I know it sucks, my last AMD was an athlon xp 2400+ and the FX line does not have an amazing value compared to them but it's still decent value for money and I'm pretty sure it's better than that cheap pentium. The "FX-8350 is still better at stock speeds" benchmark is not much of a victory against against a CPU and motherboard that cost $100 together and will hit high clock rates like that even on the stock cooler. Meanwhile, the entire Pentium computer, overclocked, is drawing half the electricity of either FX, CPU-only so it costs hugely less to run. Factory Factory fucked around with this message at 21:01 on Aug 2, 2014 |
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Aug 2, 2014 20:55
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