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1gnoirents posted:I heard only the ones made in 2013 are. I forgot what the code is to look for though Serial numbers starting with L3 are 2013, L4 are 2014 I think. And my L3 definitely is terrible.
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Aug 17, 2014 15:56
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Ika posted:Serial numbers starting with L3 are 2013, L4 are 2014 I think. And my L3 definitely is terrible. my L4 does 4.7@1.25v. It needs too much voltage to do 4.8. it's not that great of a 300mhz overclock. meh at least it runs cool.
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Aug 17, 2014 18:03
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r0ck0 posted:my L4 does 4.7@1.25v. It needs too much voltage to do 4.8. it's not that great of a 300mhz overclock. meh at least it runs cool. 1.25 at 4.7 is good to very good, considering the architecture. 1.25 is basically achievable in stock conditions and is no way too much voltage. Also keep in mind its a little better than 300 mhz, since turbo boost at 4.4 on all cores doesn't happen. If it's cool just run it at 1.30 and see what you can get. 1.30 is, imo, when you're just starting to get into actual overclocking voltages (and a moderate one at that). There's no reason to but considering your numbers I'd personally see how far I could go just for validation on that chip since it sounds like a decent one. edit: kind of misread, what was the voltage requirement for 4.8
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Aug 17, 2014 19:02
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1gnoirents posted:1.25 at 4.7 is good to very good, considering the architecture. 1.25 is basically achievable in stock conditions and is no way too much voltage. Also keep in mind its a little better than 300 mhz, since turbo boost at 4.4 on all cores doesn't happen. I tried again last night for 4.8 but it aint happening, it wasn't stable at 1.35v and froze during the IBT, temp was around 80c. I'm not going to raise the voltage any higher than that. I have the 1866 9-9-9-25-2T memory oc to 2133 10-10-10-30-1T and the cpu is running 4.7 at 1.24v 70c now. I'm going to see if I can get the volts lower and stick with 4.7.
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Aug 19, 2014 15:14
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A whole .10 for 100 mhz (especially at these voltages) can mean bottlenecks elsewhere, and that is almost always vrin (but also can be instability caused by 1:1 cache ratio, or voltage for that too). If you're interested it's a thing to try if you haven't. An easy test is put it back up to 1.35 volt and change vrin to 2.00 and see if it is stable. If so, then go back to your earlier numbers then work up
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Aug 19, 2014 17:20
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1gnoirents posted:A whole .10 for 100 mhz (especially at these voltages) can mean bottlenecks elsewhere, and that is almost always vrin (but also can be instability caused by 1:1 cache ratio, or voltage for that too). If you're interested it's a thing to try if you haven't. An easy test is put it back up to 1.35 volt and change vrin to 2.00 and see if it is stable. If so, then go back to your earlier numbers then work up Ya I was thinking that the problem was with another value I just wasn't sure what other value would be the one to adjust. What is default vrin and do you think if I raise the vrin I can lower the vcore? Will raising vrin also increase the temp as drastically as vcore? Thanks yo.
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Aug 19, 2014 17:24
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r0ck0 posted:Ya I was thinking that the problem was with another value I just wasn't sure what other value would be the one to adjust. What is default vrin and do you think if I raise the vrin I can lower the vcore? Will raising vrin also increase the temp as drastically as vcore? Thanks yo. There is a chance the chip is just unstable past 4.7 at regular temperatures, but if its another value the first one to raise is vrin. The stock value is 1.80, putting that up to 2.00 is a good middleground value to test and see if that's the cause. It will increase temperature, but nothing like vcore (per increment anyways) and if it is the bottleneck you are allowing your vcore to be lower in this case. Not to say 1.35 vcore or higher for 4.8 ghz is uncommon, but it is pretty uncommon if you can run 4.7 at 1.25 vcore. In this case I would - Manually set the cache ratio (uncore) to 36 with turbo boost off - Set vrin to 2.00 and vcore to 1.35 and see if it works - If it works, I'd start back down to 1.26 and work my way up in vcore until I find stability which would hopefully be relatively low compared to 1.35, leaving vrin at 2.00 for now - Once I'm solid on a stable vcore, I'd lower the vrin until its unstable again. I like giving myself a healthy vrin overhead though - If all of it works out and I feel like I have the thermal headroom I might try for 4.9, etc Finally I'd raise the uncore frequency up until its unstable and lock that in as well. Cache voltage can be raised here as well, 1.20 is a nice easy number for this. If 2.00 vrin and 1.35v dont work initially, I'd set the cache voltage to 1.20 and test again. If that doesn't work I'd say you've done all the reasonable easy things at that point and just sit on 4.7
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Aug 19, 2014 17:49
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Cool, thanks I'll give that a shot when I get a chance to mess around with it again.
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Aug 19, 2014 18:01
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What a waste of time, it was a little more stable with vrin at 2.0 and vcore at 1.35 but it still locked up, just took a little longer. Oh well I got the vcore down to 1.235 at 4.7 and going to try to go lower.
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Aug 20, 2014 15:27
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Sorry man, kind of weird/rare. However unless you want this cpu to last 20 years, I wouldn't waste any more time lowering it from 1.235 lol
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Aug 20, 2014 16:25
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1gnoirents posted:Sorry man, kind of weird/rare. However unless you want this cpu to last 20 years, I wouldn't waste any more time lowering it from 1.235 lol Ya good point, doesn't seem to get any cooler.
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Aug 20, 2014 16:31
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I have my delidded 4770k overclocked to 4.5ghz and overvolted a tiny bit, it was running on a twin 140mm air cooler. Can I switch it to a Corsair H55? I bought three H90's but it looks like only two will fit in my case.
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Aug 20, 2014 19:28
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After delidding, will be no problem. Typically wouldn't recommend a h55 for much but considering the cost and the fact it is literally for fitment in this case I dont see any problem with that either
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Aug 20, 2014 20:50
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Is there any adequate way I can test my PSU with my oscilloscope? I'm sort of a newb at electrical work but it's a somewhat old-ish BFG PSU and I'm wanting to make sure it's solid enough to perform with a new PC build, have been having some non-BSOD crashes I can't seem to find the source of lately
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Aug 20, 2014 23:00
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See if it puts out 12v 5v, 3.3v. To truly test it though you need to be able to put a load on it.
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Aug 20, 2014 23:16
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I can check that with my DMM, how would I go about doing the latter? I could use my DC PSU to throw some negative voltage out I assume? It goes to 30V 5A-
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Aug 21, 2014 11:21
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Read a couple reviews at JonnyGuru to see what to look for in a properly functioning power supply.
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Aug 21, 2014 18:17
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If it's a BFG power supply it's probably too old to rely on as the company went under in 2010. Better off looking into a newer higher-quality unit. Also from the Hardware thread you're using a 680 LT SLI board - it's possible it's failing due to age (or just nForce loving up), but IIRC a common issue with those boards was the northbridge and southbridge fans failing early and causing lockups when the chipsets overheated. Check the fans to see if they're working and free of dust. Modern chipsets usually run cool enough to avoid needing active cooling fortunately, but older nvidia chipsets did not tolerate fan failures well. future ghost fucked around with this message at 17:53 on Aug 22, 2014 |
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Aug 22, 2014 17:35
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cisco privilege posted:If it's a BFG power supply it's probably too old to rely on as the company went under in 2010. Better off looking into a newer higher-quality unit. I have a 990FX Extreme3 and the northbridge and southbridge are the hottest parts of my computer hands down, after a long gaming session the graphic cards and poo poo are warm to touch but if you put your finger 1 second on the northbridge you get nasty blisters (actually happened), they have passive cooling tho.
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Aug 23, 2014 01:24
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cisco privilege posted:If it's a BFG power supply it's probably too old to rely on as the company went under in 2010. Better off looking into a newer higher-quality unit. Oh great info thanks- what sort of PSU is recommended nowadays? Would it be safe to run my new rig on for a couple of weeks until I can afford the new one? Or best just to be patient? North and southbridge fans were working fine but I didnt notice the fins were clogged to the brim with dust- weird since I just sprayed the thing out pretty heavily yesterday. Also what's your guys' opinion on these two monitors for an upgrade to 120HZ?? I get conflicting opinions a lot  But no explanation why mostly..http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...%24%24%24%24%24 HornyBoy123 fucked around with this message at 05:02 on Aug 23, 2014 |
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Aug 23, 2014 04:49
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It's probably fine to run it a bit longer, but I'd run hwinfo in sensors-only mode while running one of the 3DMarks or something to see if the voltages (12V, 5V, and 3.3V) look within spec before I'd rely on it. Software readout won't be exact but it should give you a general idea. For a PSU recommendation check the OP of the parts-picking thread in SH/SC but in general you'll probably want something made by Seasonic.
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Aug 23, 2014 08:18
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What do you think is too high of a temp for an i5 4690k to reach during prime 95? Also, what temp does it throttle at? I hear it throttles at something called "TCase" instead of core temps as well... So if someone could explain that to me that would be great.
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Aug 23, 2014 13:21
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Gold Dust Gasoline posted:What do you think is too high of a temp for an i5 4690k to reach during prime 95? 80 C if you play fast and loose, 72 C if you're a hard rear end about 24/7 longevity. Tcase is the temperature of a thermal diode that sits just above all of the cores, directly under the heatspreader - the "case." Tjunction ("Tj") is the temperature of thermal diodes underneath the cores, one per core. On CPUs with a heatspreader (all desktop parts, some mobile), temperature recommendations are made in terms of Tcase at a given TDP. If you are overclocking and want 24/7 stability, you want to keep the both the Tcase at about 72 C and individual Tj readings no higher. At stock turbo boost settings, the CPU will throttle lightly, i.e. stop turboing, based on the TDP budget. The intent is to keep the temperature at the Tcase specification or below. On CPUs without a heatspreader (mobile parts, embedded parts), there is no Tcase because there is no case. Instead, Tj is specified. At lower core voltages/TDPs, Tj is frequently higher - 80 C up to 95 C for ULV parts. 95 C seems to be the universal "semiconductor electronics will start losing their poo poo here" temperature. When Tj hits 95 C, the CPU will start throttling - dropping clocks and as much volt as possible, desperately to stay in temperature. On desktop chips, Tcase is usually at least as hot as the highest core Tj. There is also another specification that you will see bandied about, Tjmax. Tjmax is the maximum temperature that the Tj thermal diode can read, and that's usually 105 C. If you see Tj hit Tjmax, that means that the temperature is 105 C or higher, and poo poo is REALLY bad. Some people think Tjmax is the maximum operating temperature of the CPU, and that is wrong. There is no definite good-bad line for temperature. The CPU will eventually die in normal use. Temperature and voltage work together to shorten the CPU's life, and lowering either will help extend the life of the chip. Overclocking raises both temperature and voltage, thus shortening the life of the chip. The reason why we set limits for 24/7 overclocking is to guarantee a minimum length of time that the chip will survive. 72 C at 1.38V Sandy/1.3V-1.35V (Intel has not said) Ivy+Haswell is what you need for the chip to run 24/7 for three years. If you are a weekend warrior, the chip may last as long as you need with more aggressive volts and temps.
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Aug 23, 2014 19:48
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Thanks holms that cleared allot up. One more thing, my temps at (currently, not 100 percent sure if stable) 1.2v and 43x multiplier are around the high 60s, maxing at roughly 72 in Prime 95 BLEND mode. In Small FFT mode (max burn) the temps are easily over 80c (around 82 after a 10 seconds before I shut it down)... Is this just lovely cooling performance and I need to tune my poo poo back down a bit? I'm using a coolermaster seidon 240m, but my case has bad airflow right now and I feel like I should be getting better cooling performance honestly. (Couple pics to get an idea of what I'm working with here, maybe I'm doing something wrong.)  
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Aug 23, 2014 21:37
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Are those fans pushing air out of the case or pushing in through the radiator? Whether you want them to be intake or exhaust, they should be pushing through the radiator.
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Aug 23, 2014 21:46
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I switched it from pull to push, but I also had to change it so that it intakes air into the case (hot air). This pissed my graphics card off which now likes to slowly climb to the low 80s in bf4 lol.
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Aug 24, 2014 05:29
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Gold Dust Gasoline posted:I switched it from pull to push, but I also had to change it so that it intakes air into the case (hot air). This pissed my graphics card off which now likes to slowly climb to the low 80s in bf4 lol. I'm pretty sure you can just flip the radiator around and mount it with some short screws.
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Aug 24, 2014 05:36
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Factory Factory posted:I'm pretty sure you can just flip the radiator around and mount it with some short screws. Normally yes, but the radiator is a bit fatter than 240mm which means I can't mount it directly to the little door hinge thing on my case without using the fans as a go-between. Also, there isn't enough room for a push-pull type thing I don't think. EDIT: As a side note the change dropped my cpu temps down a good 5c+, not sure how much of that is just because its intaking cool air from outside the case however. Gold Dust Gasoline fucked around with this message at 05:50 on Aug 24, 2014 |
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Aug 24, 2014 05:47
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These are somewhat new notions about temperatures for me. From everything I read I was under the impression I could let temperatures a bit beyond 90oC while running prime95. On my current setup I'm using a Hyper 412 PWM for air cooling of a 4670K processor running at 4.0 GHz. I let voltage at the bare minimum to run and bump up 0.03 volts when I get a bluescreen on a more demanding game and temperatures get to 83oC while running prime95. Everything runs ok like this, well until I get the bluescreen at least. I'm guessing that's why the processor seems to be degrading a bit fast? Should I go for lower temps? I have to bump up the voltage every 6 months or so.
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Aug 25, 2014 13:48
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program666 posted:These are somewhat new notions about temperatures for me. From everything I read I was under the impression I could let temperatures a bit beyond 90oC while running prime95. It's slightly conservative, and definitely the proper way to do things. However synthetics touching 90's isn't exactly a death omen either... but what exactly is your voltage. Even for a 4670k that sounds pretty high for voltages you typically need for 4.0 ghz. I'm pretty sure that's where I was on the stock cooler. There's kind of a lot of "dont buy aftermarket thermal paste" sentiment here in general, but in the context of this thread a few degrees matters and plus your stock paste or interface in general might have a minor problem. It's probably worth repasting at those temperatures (unless you're autovolting way too high or something else).
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Aug 25, 2014 14:24
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>90C is really too hot to be running even during synthetic testing unless you're actively trying to kill the chip really quickly. At most I would accept ~80C max in IBT or ~72C max in P95 -- anything higher than that may mean the chip could go above "safe" levels in heavier normal use.
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Aug 25, 2014 20:46
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Your intel cpu is good to 100c in which time it will shut the machine down. 80's and 90's during heavy synthetic tests is normal.
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Aug 25, 2014 20:49
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I shoot for low 70's at 100% real loads. That almost always equates to ~+10 degrees in blend and 15-20 in linpack or small fft for me. I may be wrong but I simply don't worry about mid 80's or if I touch 90's occasionally in IBT. Although now I can barely hit 80 doing anything at all which is pretty sweet, but pre-delid times I was definitely working in the 80's for even p95 blend
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Aug 25, 2014 20:54
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cisco privilege posted:>90C is really too hot to be running even during synthetic testing unless you're actively trying to kill the chip really quickly. At most I would accept ~80C max in IBT or ~72C max in P95 -- anything higher than that may mean the chip could go above "safe" levels in heavier normal use.
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Aug 25, 2014 21:13
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I probably should have ended that post with ".. on Sandybridge", since Haswell would certainly end up higher, although 90C still seems like alot for only 4.0 ghz on a 4670K.
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Aug 25, 2014 21:57
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Thanks for the answers guys, I took long to answer because I wanted to gather some data before posting. I was thinking about checking my cooler again but the hyper 412 pwm is kind of a pain to remove and put back so I'm probably only going to mess around with it again when something serious happen. Still, see if you think there is some problem with my rig. The thermal paste I used is some good arctic silver one and I haven't delided my processor. The voltage I'm using is 1.163 for the "core voltage override" option on my z87 gryphon, clock multiplier fixed at 40, and temperatures when running the worst test "3200000 Lucas-Lehmer iterations of M155649 using FMA3 FFT length 8K, Pass1=128, Pass2=64." gets to 80oC right now but I'm pretty sure it was around 85 during peak summer around here. Also, I bump voltage by 0.003 every time I get a bluescreen not 0.03 like I said before.
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Aug 26, 2014 15:24
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program666 posted:Thanks for the answers guys, I took long to answer because I wanted to gather some data before posting. I was thinking about checking my cooler again but the hyper 412 pwm is kind of a pain to remove and put back so I'm probably only going to mess around with it again when something serious happen. Still, see if you think there is some problem with my rig. High cpu temperatures should not cause a bluescreen. Does this happen when your cpu is not overclocked?
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Aug 26, 2014 15:27
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I've caused blue screens by not having enough voltage, which is indirectly related to heat in a way. It's usually when its right on the line though and easy to figure out. 1.163 I know repasting is a pita sometimes but I think you would likely benefit here. More or less for the fact you'll be remounting more than the paste itself 1gnoirents fucked around with this message at 15:46 on Aug 26, 2014 |
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Aug 26, 2014 15:44
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Yeah I keep the voltage the lowest possible to avoid higher temps. My PC already have a fan on the front and on the side blowing air inside and a fan, the video cards and the PSU blowing air to the outside on the back (by installing the PSU upside-down), so I think the airflow is as good as it can be. The hyper 412 pwm is kind of weird, the way it's mounted doesn't seem too firm, I think can slide it a bit if I force it, also the nuts are a bit loose and turn when you turn the screw and it's a loving pain to remove the screws sometimes. I think this last part might not be true anymore now since the nuts had some kind of adhesive that is probably holding then in place on the mobo by now. I say this because I had to do the mounting twice at first, because this was my first after market cooler and I bumped into it making it slide a bit, and I noticed the adhesive for the nuts wasn't doing anything when I first unmounted, and I had to hold the nuts in place with a plier on a awful angle. But after so much time, pressure and heat, the nuts are probably glued to the mobo. These huge metal bricks are really awkward to deal with, I'm probably buying a closed loop pre-build water cooler next time I have to mess with my processor. program666 fucked around with this message at 17:53 on Aug 26, 2014 |
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Aug 26, 2014 17:49
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program666 posted:Yeah I keep the voltage the lowest possible to avoid higher temps. If you can't pick up the motherboard by the heatsink with zero movement it's not on right (dont actually do this lol, just as a reference). The only time I've ever seen a "loose" heatsink by design is probably factory intel stuff. And even that doesn't slide. It needs to be tight for heat to transfer as its supposed to. As long as the screws are threaded you should just try tightening it
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Aug 26, 2014 17:55
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