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movax
Aug 30, 2008

Well done! Let's burn some hertz! :science:

I'll still try to find a weekend to bring my system into work and get some neat waveforms of overclocked machine.

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movax
Aug 30, 2008

My system is ~110W idling; I blame the GTX 460 and the GT 210 mostly.

movax
Aug 30, 2008

Schiavona posted:

Can you go into this a little more? I was under the impression that the mobo limited CPU OC'ing, though it makes sense that it also has an effect on the GPU. What decides quality/power delivery?

The weight of the copper used in the mobo PCB on the various layers can be a factor, as well as the amount of power planes/polygons they dedicated to delivering power to that slot. A large number of vias/holes can rob a plane/polygon of copper area very quickly, but that's less of an issue on something like an ATX board. One of our single-board computers had an issue with the first board spin where there wasn't enough copper for the +5V rail.

movax
Aug 30, 2008

Is it just me or are they nice and low-profile too?

movax
Aug 30, 2008

SRQ posted:

So, got a question about going the other way- i.e downclocking.
I'm using some spare parts to make a cheapo spare TV, and want the computer driving the TV tuner to be as quiet as possible. I've put together some spare parts using a P4 3.2 HT. What I'm wondering is two things:
Does HT increase power usage in any measurable way?
How far can I downclock/undervolt this untill it becomes stupid (I.E the amount needed to undervolt more overweighs the amount of power usage, and thus heat, less.)?

HT will increase power usage yeah, but a P4 3.2 is already going to be a space heater. The limit for undervolting would be stability I imagine; lower you get voltage, lower the TDP will be.

movax
Aug 30, 2008

Dogen posted:

Just to bring this thread back to life, I just installed a Seasonic Platinum 1000.

Upgrading from a Corsair AX850.

I think I have a problem :ohdear:

I have a AX750, which I probably do not really need. It was on sale though! And 80 PLUS Gold!

(really, my parent's machine needed a new PSU so I decided to snag a new one to replace my 500W NeoPower that had 3 12V rails)

movax
Aug 30, 2008

Zacmaniac posted:

No, when I run the render test it changes to x1 2.0: http://imgur.com/QTqvj

I think your mobo may be defective then; have any other machines to try the card in? I bet either a cold joint on one of the 32 PCIe caps on the card or maybe a cold joint on the mux (on mobo, if it has one, else caps) is at fault, and the link is down training to x1.

I don't think chipset drivers would affect it; BIOS generally sets up the PEG port bifurcation and OS gets those details via the ACPI tables.

E: on phone, but can that Asus board make the other x16 slot x4 electrically? If so, try moving card there and see what GPU-Z says.

I assume that GPU-Z has been updated to properly report info from 7000-series.

movax fucked around with this message at 16:42 on Mar 11, 2012

movax
Aug 30, 2008

Zacmaniac posted:

So last night before I went to bed, I restarted my comp, went into the BIOS, didn't change anything and booted into Windows. It showed PCI-E as x16, and games were running well. Then I restarted again this morning and it was back to x1. I returned my card to default clocks, tried putting it in the black PCI-E slot, and my computer wouldn't boot into Windows - it blue screened when I tried. Then I put it back into the blue slot and restarted the computer again, and its been at 16x for the past 3-4 restarts. I'm not sure if it's permanently fixed or not, but it seems to be working well. Is there anything that would be making it change from 16 to 1x seemingly at random? I'm wondering if maybe the Catalyst overclocking software is messing something up.

Also, I do have the latest chipset drivers installed.

Overclocking could do it, but it sounds like the link is not consistently training...maybe you didn't seat it that well in earlier installations? I feel like the components on the motherboard side are at the extreme end of their tolerance.

movax
Aug 30, 2008

Factory Factory posted:

So I was browsing through AnandTech's review of a boutique system (link goes to relevant page) where this bit of text goes by:

:wtc:

The Erebus GT comes with an i7-2700K running at 4.6 GHz. I'm running an i5-2500K at 4.6 GHz. It sleeps all the time. It resumes without issue. The only time it didn't was when I didn't know to turn off PLL Overvolting. Yet apparently this is a thing? Is it really a thing, or did everyone on staff there just accept this uncritically?

Yeah, I don't get it either. One could argue that tweaking shouldn't be necessary to get something as simple as sleep/resume working, but it's definitely doable. (Sleep/Resume is actually fairly complex as well, implementation wise).

I have an odd question for Ibex Peak users (5-series desktop/mobile chipset); did your BIOSs ever give you options to change lane widths of PCIe coming out of the PCH? I.E. switching some x16 slot between x1/x4? (if yes, then I'll be sad, if no then I'll become insufferably smug)

movax
Aug 30, 2008

Factory Factory posted:

I dunno if there's a BIOS option for it, but the Asus P7P55D-E had a slot exactly like that.

Blah, yeah. I'm implementing dynamically swapping the PCH PCIe port configs (4 x1, 2 x2, 1 x4), etc and at least on the mobile Ibex Peak platform, this is a bit difficult/abnormal to implement. Got it working though with a somewhat dirty hack though at last. (No handy MMIO'd register I can hit in BIOS to set the widths)

movax
Aug 30, 2008

Factory Factory posted:

I am exceptionally glad you mentioned that, because I just flashed to 2301 and forgot to re-overclock. I'm running at *gasp* stock!!!

I think I found some weirdness on my current ASUS BIOS (don't recall version offhand). I was running a BIOS Validation tool on my machine for kicks, and some of the PM registers it was reporting didn't jive with that I set in BIOS. Need to investigate further, maybe there is a newer BIOS that fixed it.

(Supposedly I have no C-States at the moment)

movax
Aug 30, 2008

tijag posted:

I'm hoping that there will be a guide somewhere for overclocking IVB on Asus z77 boards. There are a lot of settings and I'm not nearly as comfortable as I was overclocking on a P65 board or the i5-750 motherboard I had.

What settings do I need to change, in what increments to change them etc?

The 'offset' method of voltage is confusing me.

Essentially, offset method means you take the standard voltage that would be applied to the CPU based on a given VID, and add a certain amount to it. This is ideal, because it'll still scale happily.

However, you completely negate all power-saving functionality by applying a static, fixed voltage. The CPU will always get that voltage whether it's at 1.6GHz or 4.5GHz. As P=IV, you're now consuming more power than you need to be.

I think Factory Factory put this blurb in the OP, but if not, here is a link to Asus showing how to do it on a ROG SNB board.

I don't mind sacrificing top-end clock speed for a lower voltage, so I've backed down a conservative 4.6GHz 2600K, and a very minor offset... 0.065V maybe? I would have to reboot to check.

movax
Aug 30, 2008

Agreed posted:

You got nothin' scrub I'mma new dad (incoming red title text: SHUT THE gently caress UP ABOUT BEING A NEW DAD YOU DICK) and that means as soon as this little dude learns to move around and mess with god damned everything I am probably going to have to give up my 200mm fan mounted on a mesh-cut side panel fan that I got from Corsair for free and put on the solid side panel that I got from Corsair for free.

Truly changing moments. My airflow :qq:

Ah, so that's why you haven't been around as much. Congrats on mini-Agreed!

movax
Aug 30, 2008

A switching regulator at 350MHz would be :supaburn:

movax
Aug 30, 2008

evilweasel posted:

I was poking around in my bios getting a feel for it while preparing to overclock my processor, and seem to have hit the "automatically overclock my processor" button because it restarted several times all of a sudden, completely unexpectedly, and then after that turbo was at 4.1gHz.

Should I just assume it knows what it's doing and leave well enough alone, or is it likely that it got it right? It's an Asus motherboard, if that helps.

Assuming it's a Sandy Bridge/Ivy Bridge chip, it probably did a decent job auto-overclocking, but you could easily follow the guide in the OP to get a solid, stable overclock.

movax
Aug 30, 2008

evilweasel posted:

Is this something I need to undo? I'm having trouble figuring out what this means.

I'd say leave your machine be, but if you notice any oddness/quirks/instability, put it back to stock settings (post here for that, or check BIOS manual).

movax
Aug 30, 2008

dunkman posted:

This is my first time overclocking since I was literally an employee at FrozenCPU.com a million years ago with a Celeron 450 OC'd to like 900.

I have an ivy-bridge i7-3770k on a Asus P8Z77-V Deluxe (yeah I know), and an Corsair H60 water cooler set up.

So.
Right now I'm running at 42x100mhz, with 1.226V. My memory is 1600mhz and isn't overclocked at all.

My idle temp is around 34 C. Seems pretty stable to me, but I just wanted to run it by you guys in case I'm GOING TO FRY MY COMPUTER.



Has it escaped past 74C so far? Bit warm (even with a water cooler), in my opinion.

movax
Aug 30, 2008

betterinsodapop posted:

From da OP:
I'm using an ASUS P8P67 REV 3.1, which seems to have 12+1 VRM and cannot figure if I need to do this, and if so how. Is this something I can do from UEFI, or do I need to install the dreaded AI Suite II?

I believe it'll be under the 'Phase Control' option; going by memory here, but I think the Asus manual says that 'Extreme' gives you all the phases. Standard varies with CPU load and Optimized does...something.

movax
Aug 30, 2008

Yeah, well, my penis is quieter and older than both of yours! :smug:

(I have a Thermalright Ultra 120 from god knows how long ago with a PWM Delta AFB strapped to it, I think.)

movax
Aug 30, 2008

Agreed posted:

I will literally beat you up, each of you, who wants to fight

The guy with the largest hunk of metal cooler is probably going to win.

1.8 kilograms or almost four loving pounds.

movax
Aug 30, 2008

Lowclock posted:

Have they changed fan mounting since 775? I have a Thermalright Ultra Extreme 120 or whatever and am wondering if I can use it on an 1155 motherboard.

Yep. I have the same cooler, just order a 1155/1156 adapter kit and you'll be a-ok. I don't recall the model # off-hand.

e: From FrozenCPU it was Thermalright LGA 1156 Bolt-Thru-Kit Rev B. (Ultra Series / MUX-120 / IFX-14 / Venomous X / Ultima 90 / Cogage True Spirit)

movax fucked around with this message at 03:36 on May 18, 2012

movax
Aug 30, 2008

Star War Sex Parrot posted:

I remember when Zalman was relevant!

I have a CNPS9500 sans-fan passively cooling my parents' i5-2500K, keeps it ice-loving cold. Idles at like 26C I think.

movax
Aug 30, 2008

Animal posted:

How is that possible?

It's a really, really cool room and I have a few 120mm fans in the case I think. I undervolted it as much as I could as well, though I was using an older version of RealTemp to check temps, I think. I should probably re-check the next time I go home.

movax
Aug 30, 2008

So I'm doing some DDR3 memory debugging right now, and just wanted to swing by real quick and remind people spending $$$ for memory timings that they should feel bad and stop doing that. It makes engineers sad and really doesn't give you that much of a benefit :argh:

movax
Aug 30, 2008

Fhqwhgads posted:

That's definitely an interesting read. I'm going to need to spend more time getting acquainted with the P8Z77-V LX BIOS (I'm still floored at mouse support in a BIOS) so I can figure out which settings change what.

The Kingston RAM I bought is 1600 but at 1.65V. It defaults to 1066 at 1.5V in the BIOS though and I have to manually change it to 1600@1.65V and the OP says anything over 1.58V is dangerous? Should I downclock it to 1066@1.5V and just let it climb up as I overclock (or is that not how it works anymore)?

Memory voltage is fixed; you only need that higher voltage because Kingston says you do for stability at that speed. I don't think memory overclocking is worth it, to be honest. If you have 4 sticks, I'd just bump up to 1.52V or so to improve stability and leave memory at stock speeds.

movax
Aug 30, 2008

Fhqwhgads posted:

I wasn't planning on overclocking the RAM, I was just used to it climbing since I'm used to adjusting Bclk.

What's funny is that Corsair Vengeance 8GB kit that the parts thread is telling people not to buy (because it's loving expensive and has the huge fins, etc) is actually on sale right now for cheaper than the Kingston set I bought. At least that RAM is listed as 1600@1.5V. ~$50 on Amazon isn't bad.

Yeah, the Vengeance occasionally crashes in price below the more "normal" RAM. At that point the only real disadvantage are the obnoxious fins, as you said.

movax
Aug 30, 2008

Agreed posted:

While compatibility can vary by motherboard, mainly, we don't trust CoreTemp. We do trust RealTemp (run as Admin) if all you want to see is momentary clock, load%, and temperature in a very resource-light kinda way. HWiNFO64 (run as Admin) is the most accurate utility for all-around sensor detection and reporting.

Also, make sure to run any and all stress tests as Admin, too, or they may be limited and not giving you good results. E.g. Prime95, running with user privileges only, it'll make a guess at hyperthreaded cores and the relationship between physical and logical cores; in admin mode, it knows and assigns workloads with 100% accuracy as a result. IBT also seems to be more effective at stressing the CPU in admin mode.

You have to run RealTemp as admin (if you have UAC on I guess)? Interesting, I wonder if it is using data from TBAR in its calculations. Now I want to play with comparing values to Intel TAT when I get home.

movax
Aug 30, 2008

Installing my GTX 670 later today, I'm going to see if I can get another 100MHz out of my 2600K for funsies. 4.8GHz stable 24/7 would be sweet. Don't think there are any P8P67 Pro BIOS updates to apply...

movax
Aug 30, 2008

Well, DangerDen is having an out-of-business sale. I remember drooling over their WC stuff back in high school, they had some really cool stuff and pioneered a lot of ideas.

RIP DangerDen.

cheesetriangles posted:

So I had been overclocking in Windows and after I rebooted (power went out for a bit because of Sandy) it was back to the settings it had used in for the automatic OC. So figuring I would need to reset it all in the Bios I went and did that. After doing things the real way instead of the lazy way I am at 4.4 GHZ with 1.23v according to Aida64. Things seem to be running well with temps in the mid 60's sometimes spiking up to 71 or 72 for a second on one or maybe two cores then dropping back down. I am not sure how too little voltage would work however. I used offset voltage and I am just wondering about if when its sitting at idle do I have to worry about undervolting and how would I test that except letting it sit there for a while?

If you used offset mode and have SpeedStep/etc enabled, then yes you should be fine the voltages it's sitting at when downclocked. I assume you're at a positive offset from stock voltage, so I don't think you have anything to worry about.

movax
Aug 30, 2008

Off-topic: I haven't seen Agreed post here in awhile, he's still alive right? :ohdear:

movax
Aug 30, 2008

I can confirm that CoreTemp is reporting the right temp values on Sandy Bridge as its readings match that of the real Intel Thermal Analysis tool. And I have an old pre-1.0 version running as well.

movax
Aug 30, 2008

Martello posted:

Oh and another question - if I update my BIOS will it lose all the current overclocking settings? I checked the ASUS website and I'm not running the most current BIOS.

Probably; :spergin:: BIOS ROM is probably a 8MB SPI Flash part, where the actual BIOS/EFI code resides in the upper 4MB. As it's SPI flash, the EFI variable store is in there as well, meaning your BIOS settings / profiles / etc live in a little carved out region in that chip.

Depending on the flag(s) the update tool's called with, it can just wipe out that entire 4MB region and replace it entirely, or attempt to preserve NVRAM data. Most of the time, it's safer to clobber the entire region as if your SETUP_DATA structure has changed (new setup options, removing older ones, etc), the variable in NVRAM is no longer valid anyway.

e: the first 4MB is for Intel stuff, Management Engine, Ethernet MAC settings, etc

SocketSeven posted:

It's what I've got on hand from applying the original sink a year ago. I also have some zalman goop that came with the heatsink, But I suspect that it's probably not as good, unless AS5 goes bad sitting in it's tube.

I've always stored my extra thermal paste in the fridge, seems to help it remain in decent shape.

movax
Aug 30, 2008

Mayo did perform 5C better than toothpaste though

movax
Aug 30, 2008

TheFluff posted:

Noctua NH-D15 is the gold standard of air cooling. Main downside is that it's big, heavy and sort of expensive, but it's a really solid buy and can almost certainly be carried over to your next build - the warranty for the fans is like 6 years IIRC and if your next build's CPU socket has an incompatible mounting system they've historically had a standing offer to ship you mounting brackets for new sockets for free as long as you have proof of original purchase.

I am fairly certain you could kill a man with a NH-D15; that thing is massive.

I still run a Thermalright Ultra 120 at home (mostly out of laziness); I am pretty sure they have sent me two sets of socket adapter kits / brackets to keep it working on newer sockets.

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movax
Aug 30, 2008

I'm pretty sure I've been using / applying my Thermal Grizzy Kryonaut incorrectly, but temps are "OK" so far, or so it would seem. My usual method is thin coating on top of the die or IHS -- the Kryonaut stuff is really really goopy / hard to spread though (IMO), compared to the AS5 I usually use.

I have a few builds right now that are in easy positions for me to replace the grease on.

* Threadripper 3960X + HEATKILLER IV Cu Waterblock
* Lenovo ThinkStation mini-PC (i9-11900T + Lenovo copper laptop-style cooler)
* GeForce 1080 + HEATKILLER Waterblock

I went w/ the grizzly for most of them, and temps seem sane -- had bad RAM in my TR build, so haven't gotten to PRIME yet, but it hovered around 39 C in Memtest in a 20 C room. Haven't been able to check GPU temps yet, and for the mini-PC, its a laptop cooler -- peaked around 60 C in Memtest but haven't been able to boot into a 'real' test environment yet (what's a good bootable / LiveCD option for temp stress test?).

Conductonaut looks interesting. I would very much prefer a 'set it and forget it' type of paste, as I'm past the point in my life where I'd tear down my machine once a quarter, scrub it clean, tweak and reassemble. I've also heard/read varying reports of type of paste vs. application (IHS vs. no-IHS).

Also, this is dormant... thoughts on merging w/ water-cooling, maybe? Or one cooling/overclocking thread? I know we get specific OC-chat in the Intel/AMD threads.

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