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Completely anecdotal, but I've not had a single card failure or corruption since I got rid of the cheap sandisk ones I started off with and moved to samsung ones One has been running for 3 years now non stop serving up pictures to screens in a pub. Not a single issue. If you are needing a device with more power/reliability that costs more than a pi, the pi probably wasn't the right tool for the job to start with
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Jul 7, 2016 15:29
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Subjunctive posted:Point me to such a clone? Especially if it has wifi and BT. http://tinyonesystems.com/products/banana-pi-m3-bpi-m3 http://www.hardkernel.com/main/products/prdt_info.php http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16856501007 (x86, frequently goes to $70-75 after rebate) http://beagleboard.org/BLACK https://www.amazon.com/Banana-Pi-Mini-Source-Mainboard/dp/B00MWA5JKM/ https://www.amazon.com/Guide-Clear-Case-power-Supply-Sata-Cable-kingston-Adapter-Hdmi/dp/B00VI1UVF4 Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 16:04 on Jul 7, 2016 |
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Jul 7, 2016 15:32
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Skarsnik posted:Completely anecdotal, but I've not had a single card failure or corruption since I got rid of the cheap sandisk ones I started off with and moved to samsung ones The Pi is not actually all that cheap once you factor in all the stuff you need to get it running and reliable. The Pi Foundation likes to tout the $35 pricetag in their marketing copy but they've pushed about half of the cost into "accessories" that are more or less required. Once you factor in a SD card, low profile adapter, reliable power supply, case, etc the actual pricetag is about $75 (even ignoring the cost of keyboard/monitor which nerds tend to have laying around). I personally would rather have a $75 computer that comes with parts that are guaranteed to work instead of a $35 computer where I have to hunt down another $35 of accessories and hope they work. So I bought an ECS Liva instead, it's been happily running as my fileserver ever since, it's been far faster and more stable than my Pis ever were, at the exact same pricetag. Also, the Pi probably isn't the right tool for 99% of the stuff it's applied to. Its niche is basically GPIO embedded work, and the BeagleBone Black does it better. For things that amount to running an application or server on Linux you are better off going elsewhere. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 16:07 on Jul 7, 2016 |
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Jul 7, 2016 15:35
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Paul MaudDib posted:http://tinyonesystems.com/products/banana-pi-m3-bpi-m3 Awesome, thank you. E: several of those look like they do SD but not eMMC. Or are you suggesting SATA and external power for the drive? Subjunctive fucked around with this message at 16:17 on Jul 7, 2016 |
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Jul 7, 2016 16:07
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Skarsnik posted:Completely anecdotal, but I've not had a single card failure or corruption since I got rid of the cheap sandisk ones I started off with and moved to samsung ones Do you ever have power failures? I found that it's easy to accidentally use an adapter that is rated for plenty of current for the Pi, but doesn't quite keep the voltage high enough to avoid brownouts. With a PC, I think this would be annoying but usually the system would have no problem recovering automatically. Every time it happened to my Pi 2 running Ubuntu or Raspbian, the system disk would get corrupted and I'd have to reflash the thing. Adding just 8GB of eMMC would really be nice to avoid this problem. It's even worse since the microSD slot broke and won't hold the card in any more without my jury-rigging it with a bent pin, but I understand they improved that in the Pi 3. The other issue is that running all of the I/O through a single USB 2.0 bus sucks horribly if you want to do anything with storage. The Pi would have a lot more potential as a server if it just had 3.0, and gigabit Ethernet wouldn't be bad either although USB 3.0 would be enough.
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Jul 7, 2016 16:16
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Now and again in the pub, but then I'm regularly cutting the power to the couple I have at home with no ill effects
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Jul 7, 2016 16:27
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Subjunctive posted:Awesome, thank you. This is a pretty long list but has a short overview of pros/cons for a ton of boards. http://hackerboards.com/catalog-of-81-open-spec-hacker-friendly-sbcs/ Edit: The XU4 is supposed to be good for stuff like streaming due to having SATA/USB3/gigabit Ethernet on top of comparatively more CPU power. ItBurns fucked around with this message at 16:52 on Jul 7, 2016 |
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Jul 7, 2016 16:38
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Subjunctive posted:Awesome, thank you. I just use a 2A usb charger for my Banana Pro. 
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Jul 7, 2016 17:49
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Not having dozens of extra micro-usb chargers is the price you pay for being a bougie apple owner.
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Jul 7, 2016 19:07
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Paul MaudDib posted:I personally would rather have a $75 computer that comes with parts that are guaranteed to work instead of a $35 computer where I have to hunt down another $35 of accessories and hope they work. So I bought an ECS Liva instead, it's been happily running as my fileserver ever since, it's been far faster and more stable than my Pis ever were, at the exact same pricetag. I get that the Pi is underpowered, and that it can be annoying that people try to do so much with it they spend more time running into the device's limitations than actually using it, but the superior choices do tend to come with superior prices and more limited availability. I do agree though that the Pi makes for a lousy and risky file server. It's still pretty good as a kindergarten device that you'll eventually outgrow (unless all you wanna do is install RetroPie, futz around with little projects, or make a robot).
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Jul 7, 2016 19:20
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eMMC is just an SD card on a chip (embedded Multi-Media Card), if you're thinking you're getting more reliability you're not. They're both based on the same flash technology, just eMMC is more integrated and cheaper.
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Jul 7, 2016 20:41
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mod sassinator posted:eMMC is just an SD card on a chip (embedded Multi-Media Card), if you're thinking you're getting more reliability you're not. They're both based on the same flash technology, just eMMC is more integrated and cheaper. Both use flash but they're not the same thing. quote:In the case of the SD card, there is no concept of fail-safety or of data commit points where the state of a card can be guaranteed. This is a real problem for fail-safe operation and presents a risk to data and to the file system integrity. Most SD cards are optimized for high speed at the expense of correctly defined behavior in the event of unexpected reset. Also there is no method for differentiating between critical and non-critical operations. One advantage of SD is that it is removable; a benefit for consumer goods but more problematic for industrial applications like data loggers. Removable media can lead to uncertainty of data and also creates contact/vibration issues. SD cards have dirt-simple controllers designed to be written sequentially and then erased. The cheaper cards don't even bother with wear levelling. With eMMC you are likely going to get a controller that is designed for OS-appropriate features and usage patterns. I'm sure there is a spectrum of quality there too, of course. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 22:33 on Jul 7, 2016 |
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Jul 7, 2016 22:25
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doctorfrog posted:Just curious, what OS are you running on it? Did it cost extra? Do you have a link to a $75 ECS Liva that someone could buy right now? Best I've found right now is $90. I have one Liva that is running Ubuntu Server 14.04. I think I paid $75 or $80 for it. My only complaint is that it won't boot without a monitor plugged in. I have a Liva X that I've been trying to get Ubuntu installed on, it doesn't recognize the eMMC as bootable after I install. But it does work on Windows 10. Subjunctive posted:Awesome, thank you. I was just giving an assortment of similar single-board computers that met a decent amount of your wishlist. Not all of them match 100%. I would seriously consider SATA for a boot disk, you're going to squeeze more utilization out of the system if you're not pushing everything over a USB connection. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 22:34 on Jul 7, 2016 |
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Jul 7, 2016 22:30
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Paul MaudDib posted:I have a Liva X that I've been trying to get Ubuntu installed on, it doesn't recognize the eMMC as bootable after I install. But it does work on Windows 10. Scrungy old laptops with broken screens tend to have: included power brick that can power the laptop without those little rainbow squares a case (you don't have to buy or 3D print one) built in UPS (the battery, it doesn't have to hold much of a charge to survive a brownout) real storage controllers the ability to power most USB devices (Raspberry Pi really sucks at this) storage devices with wear leveling algorithms and some level of fault tolerance the entire base of x86/x64 drivers (the Wifi driver situation on ARM is pretty dire, particularly for 5GHz) most have Intel integrated graphics, which have excellent driver support in Linux built in gigabit LAN that can come very close to saturating gigabit built in wifi with better antennas than that garbage PCB antenna on the Pi 3 CPUs that blow away the SBCs; even a Core 2 Duo is several times more powerful than a Pi 3 the ability to hold at least 2GB memory (even the crappiest Atom netbooks can hold 2GB RAM) if you are lucky/patient, USB3 is a possibility the ability to hold a small SSD plus a hard drive via optical drive sled if necessary I come across laptops that meet most of these criteria for $30 or less all the time. If you don't need GPIO, use tossed aside Intel stuff. Is there any way to use an Arduino or a Pi as a USB slave device for the purposes of doing GPIO work on a PC (really I just want to tickle a 5V relay)? PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 02:53 on Jul 8, 2016 |
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Jul 8, 2016 02:40
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PBCrunch posted:Is there any way to use an Arduino or a Pi as a USB slave device for the purposes of doing GPIO work on a PC (really I just want to tickle a 5V relay)? It's pretty straightforward to control an Arduino directly through a terminal. You could use ssh to do the same with a Pi but it'd be overkill.
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Jul 8, 2016 04:45
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PBCrunch posted:You can install an mSATA drive in those. You might want to get a cheap mSATA drive on ebay, or a cheap M2 card pulled from a Chromebook, then pair with an M2 to mSATA adapter. I had a Liva X in my garage for looking at service manuals and playing Google Music on the stereo, but I replaced it with a broken Core i5 laptop. After putting my 3TB harddrive in my new Asus gigabit router (with USB 3.0) as a form of network-wide NAS, I don't really mind the slow ethernet of the Pi anymore. It reads files fast enough to play them.
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Jul 8, 2016 09:17
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So I just got my RP3, and I tried swapping over the SD card, and it doesn't work. Are there any handy guides for upgrading? For reference, when I attempt to boot up the 3 with the old SD card in it I just get the rainbow splash screen and it hangs there. I've already tried one guide, and it didn't work. Any ideas?
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Jul 12, 2016 06:57
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Did you do a full update including an rpi-update on the old pi before you took the sd card out? It might just need an updated kernel and drivers depending on how old it is
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Jul 12, 2016 08:50
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Full Battle Rattle posted:So I just got my RP3, and I tried swapping over the SD card, and it doesn't work. Are there any handy guides for upgrading? For reference, when I attempt to boot up the 3 with the old SD card in it I just get the rainbow splash screen and it hangs there. I've already tried one guide, and it didn't work. Any ideas? Your old image needs to have the right firmware for the Pi 3 to boot. Try running rpi-update like mentioned on an old Pi 2, or just start with a new fresh Raspbian image and copy over the files you might need from the old one.
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Jul 12, 2016 09:09
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I have not tried that, but I will. Thanks! EDIT: Still didn't work. I don't have any way to access the SD card without the raspberry pi so I guess I'm outta luck other than buying a new card with NOOBS pre-loaded. thanks anyway! DOUBLE EDIT: Upon further research I noticed I have a rainbow square in the top right corner at boot, which means I'm not drawing enough power? I have a 2.5A canakit power supply, I should be fine. Harrumph. Full Battle Rattle fucked around with this message at 12:11 on Jul 12, 2016 |
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Jul 12, 2016 10:07
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Full Battle Rattle posted:
How many devices do you have plugged in to USB ports?
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Jul 12, 2016 13:26
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Full Battle Rattle posted:I have not tried that, but I will. Thanks! I bought a canakit rpi 3 pack a month or two back and the UL listed 2.5 A 5V transformer died after like 8 hours. I contacted them through amazon and they rush shipped me a replacement directly which worked, so it may just be a bad power supply.
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Jul 12, 2016 16:05
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GutBomb posted:How many devices do you have plugged in to USB ports? Just Keyboard and mouse. Rexxed posted:I bought a canakit rpi 3 pack a month or two back and the UL listed 2.5 A 5V transformer died after like 8 hours. I contacted them through amazon and they rush shipped me a replacement directly which worked, so it may just be a bad power supply. It still powers my rpi2 fine, is it still a possibility? It looks like flashing a new SD card/ finding a new power supply are the next fixes. I'll post again when I get around to it, thanks for all the help everyone 
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Jul 12, 2016 19:12
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PBCrunch posted:You can install an mSATA drive in those. You might want to get a cheap mSATA drive on ebay, or a cheap M2 card pulled from a Chromebook, then pair with an M2 to mSATA adapter. I had a Liva X in my garage for looking at service manuals and playing Google Music on the stereo, but I replaced it with a broken Core i5 laptop. Just want to say thanks for this. Snagged a 32gb Samsung mSATA SSD for $13 bucks shipped off eBay. Should give me a nice performance boost over the the eMMC. Edit: Why did you replace it, and what are you doing with the Liva-X now? Moey fucked around with this message at 21:37 on Jul 12, 2016 |
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Jul 12, 2016 21:34
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Moey posted:Just want to say thanks for this. Snagged a 32gb Samsung mSATA SSD for $13 bucks shipped off eBay. Should give me a nice performance boost over the the eMMC.
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Jul 13, 2016 00:37
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I've got a Raspberry Pi 3 and one of these: https://www.amazon.com/WEme-Active-...dmi+to+vga+weme and every time I boot up, the screen doesn't initially display anything but after unplugging/plugging various cables it'll eventually display. This happens every time I boot up. Any ideas? I've tried googling but can't find anything about random errors like this.
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Jul 14, 2016 00:29
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huhu posted:I've got a Raspberry Pi 3 and one of these: https://www.amazon.com/WEme-Active-...dmi+to+vga+weme and every time I boot up, the screen doesn't initially display anything but after unplugging/plugging various cables it'll eventually display. This happens every time I boot up. Any ideas? I've tried googling but can't find anything about random errors like this. Have you tried adjusting the values on any of the HDMI-related settings in config.txt? I can't say for sure which one would fix your issue, but there are several related to resolution/signal strength. https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/configuration/config-txt.md
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Jul 14, 2016 00:41
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PBCrunch posted:You can install an mSATA drive in those. You might want to get a cheap mSATA drive on ebay, or a cheap M2 card pulled from a Chromebook, then pair with an M2 to mSATA adapter. I had a Liva X in my garage for looking at service manuals and playing Google Music on the stereo, but I replaced it with a broken Core i5 laptop. Are the labels worth literally anything at all, or should I just go for the cheapest option that ships from the US and run a f3 testing cycle on it?
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Jul 14, 2016 02:12
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Samsung is the go to brand here, and the market follows their pricing. If you're storing important data go with Samsung, if not, any brand is fine
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Jul 15, 2016 03:53
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I have a question about using serial pins on the Raspi 3: I've followed every single 'guide' on how to get access to these pins, edited cmdline.txt, disabled serial console, disabled getty service, edited raspi-config to turn off console on serial, forced to baud 9600 (for what i need), etc. but I'm still seeing nothing from cat /dev/ttyAMA0 or minicom. In fact minicom crashes 50% of the time. All of the info I have is identical to what has been posted here: https://stackoverflow.com/questions/37704810/free-up-uart-on-raspberry-pi-once-again which shows systemctl output, etc. Anyone have any ideas? Did anyone actually get the serial pins working on a Raspi3 yet? What the hell is going on? tuna fucked around with this message at 05:22 on Jul 15, 2016 |
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Jul 15, 2016 05:18
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If your'e using the latest Raspbian jessie make sure you add the 'enable_uart=1' line to the config.txt in /boot: http://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/questions/45570/how-do-i-make-serial-work-on-the-raspberry-pi3 They just added this recently as a workaround for the funky baud rate issue on the hardware serial port. Adding this line enables the port and disables any core frequency changes to keep a stable baud rate. Annoying, it tripped me up a lot too to find out they added this new option.
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Jul 15, 2016 06:10
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mod sassinator posted:If your'e using the latest Raspbian jessie make sure you add the 'enable_uart=1' line to the config.txt in /boot: http://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/questions/45570/how-do-i-make-serial-work-on-the-raspberry-pi3 They just added this recently as a workaround for the funky baud rate issue on the hardware serial port. Adding this line enables the port and disables any core frequency changes to keep a stable baud rate. Annoying, it tripped me up a lot too to find out they added this new option. Thanks for the fast response. I'll try this as soon as Raspian has reinstalled. After night #2 trying to figure this dumb issue out I was resigned to installing another distro entirely. [edit] Nope, still nothing. running cat /dev/ttyAMA0 doesn't even really run cat, it just exits immediately to a bash line again. Minicom still hangs. [edit2] As I'm pretty fed up wasting my time to get this board to do something as simple as getting the existing serial pins working, I'm now just looking to get another board entirely. All I need is a dev board for me to use python to deal with a stream of data coming in through baud 9600 serial. I hate microSD cards so built in memory would be a bonus, I do not need a graphical ui, etc. I'm looking at a Beaglebone Black, but is there something a bit better/newer or cheaper perhaps? I am looking at the list posted on this page right now, too. tuna fucked around with this message at 08:20 on Jul 15, 2016 |
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Jul 15, 2016 06:26
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tuna posted:All I need is a dev board for me to use python to deal with a stream of data coming in through baud 9600 serial. Are you trying to directly interface with something that uses RS-232 or RS-422 or RS-485 serial? Those are electrically (voltage) incompatible with the RPi I/O pins, and you'll need level conversion to interact with them. If not, if you're just trying to talk to something via an FTDI (or whatever) USB serial adapter, then try swapping the transmit and receive pins before declaring failure, on the off chance that you or whatever source or adapter you're using mixed them up or mislabeled them. (Eg they labeled a pin as Tx on your adapter so you plugged it into the Tx pin on the RPi, not the Rx pin…)
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Jul 15, 2016 09:12
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Have you looked at the PyBoard, tuna?
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Jul 15, 2016 10:24
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Hell, there's likely some flavor of Arduino that would work for you.
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Jul 15, 2016 15:07
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Paul MaudDib posted:Are the labels worth literally anything at all, or should I just go for the cheapest option that ships from the US and run a f3 testing cycle on it? I don't think the m2-mSATA adapter cards have any logic onboard, so just get a cheap one. The Wifi card in the Liva X can be easily replaced with a $10 Intel 7260 802.11ac/BT4.0 card from ebay. I got Wifi speeds well in excess of fast ethernet speeds when connected to my Unifi UAP AC Lite access point.
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Jul 15, 2016 16:08
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eschaton posted:Are you trying to directly interface with something that uses RS-232 or RS-422 or RS-485 serial? The GPS breakout I'm wanting to communicate with uses: Output: NMEA 0183, 9600 baud default. It should work with the pi almost straight out of the box as I've seen in many guides/tutorials. I even just connected the Tx and Rx pins to see if minicom would be able to speak to itself but like I said it would do nothing and hang half the time. ynohtna posted:Have you looked at the PyBoard, tuna? I have one! But I do eventually need to use this to output something graphically on screen, so sticking to a linux devboard for now will be the best option. I guess I misspoke when I said I don't need a graphical UI, because I guess I do, I just don't need a desktop UI for now. I'm guessing the Beaglebone will be a good alternative to the raspi3 for right now, I thought it hadn't been updated for years but it has several revisions to bring it a bit up to date. I have a raspi2 being used in another project that I could swap out for the pi3 but it would be kind of a pain. Thanks for the replies everyone.
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Jul 15, 2016 18:24
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If you can't get loop back to work I wonder if the pins weren't damaged in some way. I just setup a GPS receiver on the serial port of a Pi 3 last week and it worked fine with the enable_uart tweak, stopping the getty systemd service, and removing the serial port from the kernel command line.
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Jul 15, 2016 19:40
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What do you guys think is the best power supply on Amazon for a Pi 3? I'm considering grabbing one of these just to learn how to program and maybe turn it into a RetroPie machine so I can play some classic games while lounging around the couch.
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Jul 15, 2016 20:05
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Tensokuu posted:What do you guys think is the best power supply on Amazon for a Pi 3? I'm considering grabbing one of these just to learn how to program and maybe turn it into a RetroPie machine so I can play some classic games while lounging around the couch. The Canakit supply is nice
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Jul 15, 2016 20:13
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