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try weathering with a sponge, its super easy and really fast. Use it like you would a drybrush
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Aug 27, 2014 05:59
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runwiled posted:I'm not dead. This is a Frame Arms kit right? If so, which one?
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Aug 27, 2014 06:02
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The Zenrai.
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Aug 27, 2014 07:10
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runwiled posted:I'm not dead. Looks fantastic. What weathering techniques are you using?
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Aug 27, 2014 07:20
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It is indeed the Frame Arms "Zen Rai." There's pieces and instructions in the box for a variant version that has a different head and chest-piece, plus a shoulder cannon and tank treads. I preferred the version that appeared on the box art.Bimmi posted:Looks fantastic. What weathering techniques are you using? Various: I did pre-shading and colour with an airbrush and then did the post shading with a paintbrush. Over that I used dry-brushing techniques for almost all the weathering/mottling and very dilute washes. I then clear-coated it, did the decals and then sealed those with another clear-coat. Then I did a pin-wash/weathering wash, touched up some of the streaking and finally sealed it with a matt coat. I did get some weathering powders and experimented with them but wasn't too happy with the results so I decided not to use them in the end for this kit. A big part of getting good looking weathering is knowing when to show restraint. Since at least one person is interested, I'll do one of my usual "effort posts," in the near future to show you some of the stages and tools I used.
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Aug 27, 2014 09:44
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runwiled posted:Since at least one person is interested, I'll do one of my usual "effort posts," in the near future to show you some of the stages and tools I used. Glad to hear it, I love that stuff. That weathering is spot on, I really like the stain streaks on the chest.
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Aug 27, 2014 13:57
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runwiled posted:I'm not dead.
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Aug 27, 2014 14:13
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runwiled posted:A big part of getting good looking weathering is knowing when to show restraint. This really can't be emphasized enough.
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Aug 27, 2014 14:30
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This makes me want to paint and weather the hell out of my Ez8 MG. Is there a good way to make it look like dirt that's been rained on?
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Aug 27, 2014 14:33
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I like my kits clean and looking like they just jumped outta the assembly line, but that's some drat nice work runwiled.
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Aug 27, 2014 15:39
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runwiled posted:A big part of getting good looking weathering is knowing when to show restraint. Restraint you say?  http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HGUC-1-14...016.m2516.l5255
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Aug 27, 2014 15:51
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"Sir, is there a reason you colored the Sazabi with candy sugar, instead of paint?" "It just seemed so delicious..."
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Aug 27, 2014 15:55
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Bad, but far from the worst I've seen. A lot of people seem to mistake "heavy weathering" for "make it look like it's been rotting in a Junkyard for 30 years." And that's assuming they don't just dip a brush in silver and rub it all over the model like they were trying to summon a loving genie.
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Aug 27, 2014 16:14
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The Muffinlord posted:This makes me want to paint and weather the hell out of my Ez8 MG. Is there a good way to make it look like dirt that's been rained on? It really depends on how much time you want to put into it. One of the key aspects of weathering is to make it look random, and there are a lot of ways to do it. The quick way is to find a nice shade of brown and drybrush it (aka dab your paintbrush in a tissue a couple times to get most of the paint off) in appropriate spots. Another way is to prime, lay a base coat in whatever color of brown you like, lay a clear coat over it, then paint over that with the color you want the plastic to be. Then grab a sponge or a q-tip or whatever and scratch off the paint wherever you feel like. Whatever way you choose to shade, from there you can grab a weathering set of your choice and do washes and panel washes (brown panel lines can really add a lot). Throw on a flat coat and make a diorama, and you're got something nice going. The two most important facets of weathering are restraint and research. Remember that the idea is to make your kit look more realistic; there isn't a military in the world, fictional or otherwise, that would seriously use a ridiculously beat up machine. Likewise there is absolutely no reason a space-only MS would ever look like it just went through a desert. Of course most people ignore that last bit since by that logic the only acceptable weathering for 90% of MS is battle damage, and making your kit look cool is way more important than source accuracy or whatever.
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Aug 27, 2014 16:41
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BlitzBlast posted:source accuracy With giant cartoon robots this becomes a lot less of a constraint, I find. You could always have the excuse "fightin' in a dust cloud/wrecked colony/asteroid" to give a lot of abrasion even on a space-only model. But the points about restraint are VERY valid - less is always more when it comes to weathering.
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Aug 27, 2014 17:11
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Well the Ez8 is a ground model, soooo
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Aug 27, 2014 17:21
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The Muffinlord posted:This makes me want to paint and weather the hell out of my Ez8 MG. Is there a good way to make it look like dirt that's been rained on? A couple of ways off the top of my head. One would be to use a weathering powder, which you mix with a thinner and "fixant" (matt coat varnish, usually). You apply and then use a brush or cotton bud/Q-tip to streak before it dries. If you look at some of Humbrol's youtube videos on weathering powders, you'll also see that the chap who's featured in the videos uses DecalFix as a carrier for weathering powder because it dries but can be "re-activated," with water. As I mentioned in my last post, I didn't get along with the powders, so I used a very thinned paint in small quantities and waited for it to semi-dry and then applied the streaking with a fine brush. That being said, the internet is a god-send for model makers as you can now tap into years of experience and there's a lot of material out there for you to consume. Don't restrict yourself to the Gunpla / model robot community for resource. I learned most of what I know from military scale modelers and model train enthusiasts. Poison Mushroom posted:You're a wizard, right? That's what that is? You magic-ed up a real mobile suit and then shrunk it down to Gunpla size. You're very kind, but sadly no magic. It's just practice, patience and not being afraid to do something over and: BlitzBlast posted:The two most important facets of weathering are restraint and research. This. BlitzBlast knows what's up. You need to think about how your model as a real piece of hardware would wear, how well it would be maintained, where it would operate, etc. Use reference material. I know we don't have giant mechs in real life (more's the pity?) but we do have real military hardware that operates in different theaters. For this kit, I referenced a lot of desert-pattern tanks and other armour to understand how things weather in the real world. Again, we're lucky and can just GIS this poo poo. Don't just reference other models, that's a common trap. Look at what it is model makers are supposed to be replicating. Monaghan posted:I like my kits clean and looking like they just jumped outta the assembly line, but that's some drat nice work runwiled. Thank you and I also respect the "clean" kit. It's hard to do because it requires excellent finishes to your paint and clear coats, a lot of precision and even more patience. I remember looking at that custom RX93 Nu-Type that was posted in this thread months ago and marveling at just how loving pristine it was (http://amethyst002.web.fc2.com/gallery/13/rx93/rollout03/rollout03.html for reference). Weathering something is great because you can use it to hide mistakes or an inconsistent paint job but on a clean kit, you can't get away with a single defect. I have plans to do a clean build but I need to find the right kit. I also need to get better. To everyone who said something nice about the kit so far, thank you very much for the compliments. I have a bad habit of reading this thread regularly but never commenting on anyone's work, which is a terrible thing for me to do as we should all support each other. I shall endeavor to be less of a shitlord in future. Also I'll probably do that effort-post something this weekend, as well as continuing work on the model itself!
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Aug 27, 2014 21:42
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runwiled posted:A couple of ways off the top of my head. One would be to use a weathering powder, which you mix with a thinner and "fixant" (matt coat varnish, usually). You apply and then use a brush or cotton bud/Q-tip to streak before it dries. If you look at some of Humbrol's youtube videos on weathering powders, you'll also see that the chap who's featured in the videos uses DecalFix as a carrier for weathering powder because it dries but can be "re-activated," with water. Have you ever worked with the Gundam Weathering Markers? What do you think about them? (If they're good, where can I find them? The ones specifically for weathering don't seem to be on amazon.) And a general question for the thread, what is the distinction of "thunderbolt" version models? Is it just the name of a production run? They seem to be mainly UC models, so is Thunderbolt just a newer production of UC gundams?
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Aug 27, 2014 21:59
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peeNamaste posted:Have you ever worked with the Gundam Weathering Markers? What do you think about them? (If they're good, where can I find them? The ones specifically for weathering don't seem to be on amazon.) Thunderbolt is a UC manga, and it has a different level of detail from the regular series, they're still pretty well done kits from what I've heard about them.
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Aug 27, 2014 22:04
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Edit: /\/\/\ - I had a link, so there.  peeNamaste posted:And a general question for the thread, what is the distinction of "thunderbolt" version models? Is it just the name of a production run? They seem to be mainly UC models, so is Thunderbolt just a newer production of UC gundams? It's a spin-off manga: http://gundam.wikia.com/wiki/Mobile_Suit_Gundam_Thunderbolt Edit2: Link for real touch markers: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2/182-7583601-8032532?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=gundam%20real%20touch%20markers
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Aug 27, 2014 22:04
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Ah, no wonder I couldn't find anything about it, I was mainly searching anime. Thanks. The Zaku II I build was Thunderbolt and I really liked the level of detail it had.
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Aug 27, 2014 22:06
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The Build Strike I'm working on right now is really driving home just how brutal the old HG Verde Buster kit is. Man that thing sucks. Also, using Future + water + acrylic for line washing is working pretty well for me. I'm still messing up all over the place, but with this solution I can just wipe with alcohol and start over, which helps a ton.
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Aug 27, 2014 22:06
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peeNamaste posted:Have you ever worked with the Gundam Weathering Markers? What do you think about them? (If they're good, where can I find them? The ones specifically for weathering don't seem to be on amazon.) Funnily enough if I were to open the drawer right next to my knee right now I would be looking at a pack of Gundam Weather markers. They've been sat there for years, which you should take as a bad omen. I don't like them, at all, nor any other Gundam marker (I also have sets of the panel-lining pens). They ink/pigment flow is weird and I think the end results look like you've just rubbed a bunch of weathering markers over plastic, rather than actual wear and tear. I'm sure someone could find an example where they were used and the end results come out great, but I don't feel inclined to learn how to make them look good when I already have tools and techniques at my disposal that I'm already familiar with and which, in my opinion, are superior. Hell, I'm tempted to mail you these markers since I'll never use them. I just tried one and it still flows. If you can deal with post coming from the UK you can have them. Maybe you'll get on with them better than I did.
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Aug 27, 2014 22:16
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The weathering markers are decent enough for a wash I suppose, but by themselves they're pretty rear end. The colors don't really live up to their names IMO, burnt iron and rust in particular being disappointments. I recall the mud being kind of decent though, so I guess you could use it for dry brushing.
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Aug 27, 2014 22:39
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runwiled posted:Funnily enough if I were to open the drawer right next to my knee right now I would be looking at a pack of Gundam Weather markers. They've been sat there for years, which you should take as a bad omen. I don't like them, at all, nor any other Gundam marker (I also have sets of the panel-lining pens). They ink/pigment flow is weird and I think the end results look like you've just rubbed a bunch of weathering markers over plastic, rather than actual wear and tear. I'm sure someone could find an example where they were used and the end results come out great, but I don't feel inclined to learn how to make them look good when I already have tools and techniques at my disposal that I'm already familiar with and which, in my opinion, are superior. Upon some research it looks like you can get okay results if you mark with them a little bit, then rub them off with your finger. Sure I'll take them off your hands! You don't have PMs so email me at peenmaster AT cock.li and we can discuss further. Thanks friend!
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Aug 27, 2014 22:42
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Probably my favorite pro modeler at the moment is some fellow called Naoki — he has an expert touch with weathering that makes his models look absolutely real and plausible. His Turn X is a pretty good example of what I consider to be "heavy" weathering — it looks dirty, hard-used and old, but it's all very tightly controlled and not just some grimy rusted shitheap: I also like this guy Diego Quijano, who is just insanely good at what he does: check these details from his 1/48 FA-18, which is almost indistinguishable from the real thing and a pretty good analog to how a typical "weathered" robot should probably look:   Also, if you're determined to hone you some mad weathering skills you could do a lot worse than to check out the model train scene… some of those guys are so dedicated to duplicating reality in exact and unrelenting detail it's almost scary. Bimmi fucked around with this message at 23:22 on Aug 27, 2014 |
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Aug 27, 2014 23:16
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peeNamaste posted:Upon some research it looks like you can get okay results if you mark with them a little bit, then rub them off with your finger. Sure I'll take them off your hands! You don't have PMs so email me at peenmaster AT cock.li and we can discuss further. Thanks friend! It is done. Bimmi posted:Also, if you're determined to hone you some mad weathering skills you could do a lot worse than to check out the model train scene… some of those guys are so dedicated to duplicating reality in exact and unrelenting detail it's almost scary. Model train enthusiasts are a special, freaky breed and I love them for it. It's kind of a shame, but I get the impression that there's not a lot of new blood getting into the scene. I hope I'm wrong.
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Aug 27, 2014 23:41
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runwiled posted:It is done. I can attest to this, my dad's working on making Disney World in his backyard. I'm pretty sure he's trying to shrink the amount of grass he has to cut when he retires.
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Aug 27, 2014 23:46
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runwiled posted:It's kind of a shame, but I get the impression that there's not a lot of new blood getting into the scene. I hope I'm wrong. This seems to be true of scale modeling in general, unfortunately. You look into any modeling forum and a lot of its members are going to be greybeards like myself who started building models in the '60s and '70 when the scene was much, much different. It's not a recent decline, either — your formerly ubiquitous mom & pop hobby shops were already a dying breed well before the WWW came along to deliver the death blow. Personally, I blame them drat vidyagames. Gunpla is highly unusual in that it appeals to a much wider and generally younger demographic than other types of scale modeling, but it's also true that the vast majority will just snap, panel-line and call it done, so it's not really the same thing. Bimmi fucked around with this message at 01:47 on Aug 28, 2014 |
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Aug 27, 2014 23:58
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So, I want some Gundams. The only ones I want right now are the G-Self and God Gundam, and lucky for me there's one of the latter coming out in the Robot Spirits line soon. Now, I'm pretty sure there will be a G-Self in a Tamashii line eventually, but there always might be some I want that won't ever and have their only toy forms be of the build and paint kind. Problem: I'm abysmal at painting(especially small things) and have little patience for building. Any advice?
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Aug 28, 2014 00:07
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There's been a slight resurgence with my friends since coming across this thread, but 5 goons painting zakus does not a revival make.
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Aug 28, 2014 00:09
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WickedHate posted:So, I want some Gundams. The only ones I want right now are the G-Self and God Gundam, and lucky for me there's one of the latter coming out in the Robot Spirits line soon. Now, I'm pretty sure there will be a G-Self in a Tamashii line eventually, but there always might be some I want that won't ever and have their only toy forms be of the build and paint kind. Problem: I'm abysmal at painting(especially small things) and have little patience for building. Any advice? Well, since you like God Gundam, you would probably like the Build Burning Gundam coming out in October: http://www.hlj.com/product/BAN993230/Gun If you want to try what's considered one of the best HG kits made yet, then HGAC Wing Gundam is your choice: http://www.hlj.com/product/BAN983663/Gun (a video review if you want some visual proof) My personal bias would also suggest HG 00 Raiser: http://www.hlj.com/product/BAN965300/Gun
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Aug 28, 2014 00:25
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WickedHate posted:So, I want some Gundams. The only ones I want right now are the G-Self and God Gundam, and lucky for me there's one of the latter coming out in the Robot Spirits line soon. Now, I'm pretty sure there will be a G-Self in a Tamashii line eventually, but there always might be some I want that won't ever and have their only toy forms be of the build and paint kind. Problem: I'm abysmal at painting(especially small things) and have little patience for building. Any advice? Honestly, if you're not the type to obsess over nub marks and seams, these kits can be built in an evening. Like, two hours tops. Everything's simple and straightforward, and they look fine right out of the box without paint or glue. If you're concerned about what you can do without paint, here's a straight out of the box review of an HG kit. I'd recommend looking through review sites if you're uncertain what you want to get, you can see what things look like without paint and avoid problem kits. The reviews of the 1/144 God Gundam are great and you can grab it and a pair of nippers off Amazon for like $35, why not give it a shot?
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Aug 28, 2014 00:48
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TaurusOxford posted:Well, since you like God Gundam, you would probably like the Build Burning Gundam coming out in October: http://www.hlj.com/product/BAN993230/Gun It's so cheap! Not even expensively cheap! I can't even find an emote to convey my feelings of love towards it. So does High Grade not take painting? The other two, I'm not big on Wing and haven't watched 00, so I'm not as interested, but I've been trying to go through most of Gundam lately(until recently I was only a fan of G), and I'll get to 00 eventually. I've been kind of looking forward to it since I saw another figure of that same Gundam the other day and thought it was pretty badass.
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Aug 28, 2014 00:51
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WickedHate posted:So does High Grade not take painting? They generally require some spot painting. They'll include stickers that cover most if not all of the spot colors but those can look pretty bad sometimes. Master Grade is the go-to for fully-colored no-paint figures, but they's partsy and building one can take several days easily. Will never have as much variety in the line as HG either, which is sad but that's just how it is.
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Aug 28, 2014 00:58
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Bimmi posted:Master Grade is the go-to for fully-colored no-paint figures, but they's partsy and building one can take several days easily. Will never have as much variety in the line as HG either, which is sad but that's just how it is. I built the MG Strike Freedom and MG Strike Rouge Ootori in a day each, but they were LONG days - like 10-10 with an hour and a half total for meals.
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Aug 28, 2014 01:11
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Bimmi posted:They generally require some spot painting. They'll include stickers that cover most if not all of the spot colors but those can look pretty bad sometimes. "Require" is not the right word for this reply. They are colored out of the box. If you want to make them look better its all a matter of how much effort you want to put into them. It sounds intimidating but its seriously as simple as buy kit, cut the pieces out and snap them together as per the instructions. They are in japanese but are well done and whatever is not clear you can check the OP for.
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Aug 28, 2014 05:53
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Has anyone built this Scopedog: http://www.hlj.com/product/BAN951922/Sci I'm trying to figure out how big it is and if it's going to dwarf my HGUC/RG stuff. Alternately, is there a smaller kit?
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Aug 28, 2014 06:02
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Dalong is always the answer.
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Aug 28, 2014 06:03
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it's like master grade height but way chuftier
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Aug 28, 2014 06:08
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