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PG FA Unicorn was announced as a web exclusive. We finally have a picture too. Thankfully it's closer looking to the HG than the MG.
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# ? Oct 23, 2014 15:33 |
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# ? Mar 29, 2024 15:48 |
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Remind me not to attempt a full repaint of a MG in the course of a month again. I don't have nearly the amount of free time I thought I had.
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# ? Oct 23, 2014 15:37 |
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BlitzBlast posted:PG FA Unicorn was announced as a web exclusive. How much work do you think it would take to scratch build the extra parts needed for a PG Plan B?
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# ? Oct 23, 2014 15:42 |
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BlitzBlast posted:PG FA Unicorn was announced as a web exclusive. Goddammit. God drat you Bandai. drat you to hell. (Going by the small image, no green frame though? That's odd.) ActionZero posted:How much work do you think it would take to scratch build the extra parts needed for a PG Plan B? Too much. Far too much.
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# ? Oct 23, 2014 15:45 |
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Entirely too much considering PG Banshee and PG Norn are literally guaranteed. PG Phenex is less likely, or at least that's what the part of me that believes in Bandai's sanity thinks.
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# ? Oct 23, 2014 15:46 |
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BlitzBlast posted:Bandai's sanity I mean it must be making them money cause drat that is a poo poo ton of big and weird kits.
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# ? Oct 23, 2014 16:15 |
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Well, since a PG Banshee is guaranteed, I wonder if they'll go even more insane and start releasing psychoframe and armed armor expansion sets? Anything to avoid having them pull the "You'll only get these parts from our web exclusive version of this kit" poo poo again like with MG Norn.
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# ? Oct 23, 2014 16:21 |
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HG 1/144 High Mock & HG 1/144 Mock Armory Set - Announced! quote:HG 1/144 High Mock (Release Date: Jan 2015, Price: 800 Yen) God dammit, Bandai, why you gotta make me wanna give you all my money?
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# ? Oct 23, 2014 16:37 |
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HITLER HELLASS THIS IS BEST NEWS I EVER HEAR 2014
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# ? Oct 23, 2014 16:51 |
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Goddammit Bandai, why you gotta make me buy kits from lines I had sworn off! First Build Burning, now the Mock! ...and several of the G-reco suits... I hope Bandai doesn't run out of whatever special kind of crack they've been smoking this year.
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# ? Oct 23, 2014 16:55 |
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ACES CURE PLANES posted:Goddammit. God drat you Bandai. drat you to hell. (Going by the small image, no green frame though? That's odd.) I think the FA is just the parts instead of a separate kit sold with the PG Unicorn. It'll probably go for about 7000 yen, maybe 10000. W.T. Fits posted:HG 1/144 High Mock & HG 1/144 Mock Armory Set - Announced! Oh hell yes, time to make a target range.
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# ? Oct 23, 2014 16:59 |
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W.T. Fits posted:HG 1/144 High Mock & HG 1/144 Mock Armory Set - Announced! God drat. And they're so loving cheap too. Now I just need an HGCC Kapool or an HGUC Capule...
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# ? Oct 23, 2014 17:01 |
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TARDISman posted:I think the FA is just the parts instead of a separate kit sold with the PG Unicorn. It'll probably go for about 7000 yen, maybe 10000. Correct, it's titled as the "Full Armor Set". It'll be an extra bazooka, two extra shields/gatlings, the backpack, and the fuel tanks. We can probably expect a PG Awakened Unicorn to follow shortly after.
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# ? Oct 23, 2014 17:06 |
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W.T. Fits posted:HG 1/144 High Mock & HG 1/144 Mock Armory Set - Announced!
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# ? Oct 23, 2014 17:16 |
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The RE/100 Mk.III looks really loving weird.
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# ? Oct 23, 2014 17:25 |
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Also, the Mega-Shiki and Mega-Shiki Build Custom set, because why not?quote:HGBF 1/144 Mega Shiki (Release Date: Dec 2014, Price: 1944 yen)
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# ? Oct 23, 2014 17:34 |
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W.T. Fits posted:Also, the Mega-Shiki and Mega-Shiki Build Custom set, because why not? Hmm.. It looks kind of like they're recycling the ancient HGUC kit for this one. Hopefully I'm wrong about that. I like that little jet transport thing, though. So that's cool.
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# ? Oct 23, 2014 17:39 |
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Suzaku posted:Hmm.. It looks kind of like they're recycling the ancient HGUC kit for this one. Hopefully I'm wrong about that. One comment says they only took some parts from HGUC Delta Gundam.
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# ? Oct 23, 2014 17:51 |
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W.T. Fits posted:HG 1/144 High Mock & HG 1/144 Mock Armory Set - Announced! It's 864 yen? That's under 8 bucks isn't it? God I'm gonna buy too many of these. Gotta make my Mock Grimoire Tallgeese mix. The Sage Tallgeese.
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# ? Oct 23, 2014 18:34 |
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everythingWasBees posted:God drat. And they're so loving cheap too. HGCC Kapool would be amazing.
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# ? Oct 23, 2014 18:38 |
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ZenMasterBullshit posted:It's 864 yen? That's under 8 bucks isn't it? I hear Grimoire and Mock together, and I assume you're building Vectorman At 864 yen, I wanna buy like a dozen of them, and just build a small army of them. Gyro Zeppeli fucked around with this message at 19:21 on Oct 23, 2014 |
# ? Oct 23, 2014 19:18 |
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W.T. Fits posted:Also, the Mega-Shiki and Mega-Shiki Build Custom set, because why not? Hey lets take the awesome gold color scheme and make it a bad blue color!
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# ? Oct 23, 2014 19:19 |
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KoB posted:Hey lets take the awesome gold color scheme and make it a bad blue color! To be fair doing it Delta Gundam gold would crank the price up by about 15 bucks. And I don't mind the blue.
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# ? Oct 23, 2014 19:22 |
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Hey BlitzBlast, a number of months ago you made a good post about handpainting. I was wondering if you could expand on it a little with specific brush/paint recommendations. It's probably about time I stepped up my game a little bit and incorporated some painting, so I'm looking for some advice on how to make my model robots look prettier. Anyone else with advice can chime in to, the above post was just the one that stuck out in my head. e: because I refuse to not spell/capitalize/etc. the names of goons the way they are written (sometimes) Zwingley fucked around with this message at 20:14 on Oct 23, 2014 |
# ? Oct 23, 2014 20:11 |
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I dunno man I paint miniatures, is there something specific you want to know?
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# ? Oct 23, 2014 20:20 |
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Inspired by this thread, I just assembled my first plamo! A cute little 1/20 Scopedog (Pailsen Files ver): More images (with both legs) in the album. I've done some miniature wargaming figure stuff before this, so I wasn't completely clueless on how to handle it. This was by far the biggest thing I've ever put together though, and it was loads of fun. I wasn't too anal about the nubs since I wanted to just enjoy building the Scopedog, but I did file off the vast majority of them. Will probably try painting it at some point. It's all snap-on, which was cool! Working with glue (and/or warhams) sucks. Now I just feel like I need more things to assemble. Time to order some MGs I guess!
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# ? Oct 23, 2014 20:21 |
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Scopedog is one of the five or six things on my shortlist, that's such a dope-looking kit. I'm in the middle of MG 00 Raiser and it's easily the most involved kit I've done so far. I've been working on it since 11 and in that time I've taken one break for food and I've only finished the Raiser and GN-Sword III and two action bases that I ordered with it. Dope kit, though.
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# ? Oct 23, 2014 20:27 |
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signalnoise posted:I dunno man I paint miniatures, is there something specific you want to know? What size a brush do you use and what kind of paint, to start? I'm sort of guessing miniature techniques would overlap a whole lot with very fine stuff like eyes (and pilots ) in particular, so pretty much anything you hafta say about how to not paint like an idiot is very welcome.
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# ? Oct 23, 2014 20:30 |
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TaurusOxford posted:Just gonna give you fair warning now: If you want RG Zeta to be a model kit you can play with occasionally and transform, don't bother. It's a kit that you literally build, pose, and then never touch again cause it's a fragile mess. It does look like that, which is why I think I want to try another RG kit first, so this doesn't end up rolled up into a ball and then thrown into the corner. From the transformation step-by-steps on gunpla-gaijin I was expecting in multiple steps for it to fall apart. Would it be best to treat it as a model and glue everything and not treat it as a snap kit? Zwingley posted:What size a brush do you use and what kind of paint, to start? make sure you thin your paints (unless you want brush lines), use brush cleaner, maybe ghetto up a wet pallet (wet to the touch sponge with paper/thin fabric over it so the paint doesn't dry out while your using it). Good brushes are infinetly better than cheap brushes, but there is a bang-for-buck curve so don't buy the really expensive ones either. Don't try to mix different brands of paint together (ie tamiya acrylics + ciditel/vallehjo<sp> doesn't work). if you are doing coats ie primer then basecoat then filter then topcoat, you need to alternate different types of paint (ie enamel primer, then acrylic basecoat, then enamel filter, then acrylic topcoat) otherwise they will eat/activate the previous layer and mix up all weird looking (the exception to this is the tamiya acrylics as they are a weird resin/lacquer variant that when cured is crazy strong). Wibbleman fucked around with this message at 20:40 on Oct 23, 2014 |
# ? Oct 23, 2014 20:33 |
Dire posted:Inspired by this thread, I just assembled my first plamo! A cute little 1/20 Scopedog (Pailsen Files ver): Really nice photography work there, it looks great! Add some panel lining and flat coat and it will look even better, if you do so post some more pictures!
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# ? Oct 23, 2014 20:42 |
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Zwingley posted:What size a brush do you use and what kind of paint, to start? I'm not gonna touch brush size on this one because they're wildly different scales but General protips: Do not get paint in the ferrule. The ferrule is that metal piece between the bristles and the handle that keeps the hair together. Getting paint in that basically fucks up a brush. The bristles won't come to a point, etc. Topcoating, or Varnishing, is done not just at the end, but also as a protective measure between steps or between sessions. With the right varnish you can do cool things like put paint over paint and wipe the top paint away, which leaves top paint around details but shows the undercoat otherwise. Testors Glosscote is the standard for protective finishes. Use that and your paint will not chip or rub off. You can use it between coats, just don't be too thick with it because you don't want to obscure detail. The final topcoat shouldn't even be thought of as protective. The final topcoat alters how light reflects off the model, so you can choose a satin, glossy, or matte finish. If you have an airbrush, I recommend Vallejo varnishes. You can also brush those varnishes on if you don't have an airbrush, but I only recommend doing that to pick out specific parts for finish differences, like glossy armor with matte skin. If you want the same varnish over the whole model and don't have an airbrush, I recommend Testors Dullcote for matte and Testors Glosscote for gloss finish. Google them because they keep changing what the label looks like these days. Thin your paints, DEPENDING ON WHAT PAINT YOU USE. Thick paint hides detail. It's much better to use thin coats and build the coats up in layers, so all that detail comes through. Put thick paint over one of those little panel lines and it will just about disappear. You know what's an even better trick though? Using an airbrush. But even when you're using an airbrush, you want to use thin layers, because otherwise the paint will pool up. It's repetitive, sure, but it'll look better in the end. And don't worry about the extra time, because thin coats of paint dry faster than thick coats. I gotta go to class but when I get back (or while I'm in class) I can expand on paint brands, how much it costs to get into airbrushing less than 100 dollars, what you need in order to airbrush at different levels of detail, the two basic types of airbrush, a recommendation or two for airbrush brands, some interesting tools for weathering and special effects, regular paint brush types, paint brush hair types, and some neat regular paint brush brands. On request I will also tell what I know so far about spraypaint and custom paint markers. As for painting well, you're on your own. I'm a gear junkie and I have all the knowledge that has been imparted to me by the masters in the miniatures thread, but my skill level is pretty low. In the meantime go read this thread and think about what you want your finished models to look like and what you're trying to acheive. And for your own sanity do not look up posts in that thread by Bachtere or Serious Gaylord. Or do, and check out what they have to say about painting because their work is awe-inspiring and that's just two names I could think of off the top of my head. There are seriously good painters in there.
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# ? Oct 23, 2014 20:58 |
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Suzaku posted:Hmm.. It looks kind of like they're recycling the ancient HGUC kit for this one. Hopefully I'm wrong about that. looks like bandai is going to use the delta gundams frame, with obvious changes on some parts and colors, but it has the exact same wings with addons to where the rifle would be stored and the elbow joints and rifle are the same. EDIT: sorry didnt know about timg HairSlut fucked around with this message at 21:47 on Oct 23, 2014 |
# ? Oct 23, 2014 21:08 |
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[timg] please. For my 2 cents on it, the PG Unicorn looks pretty good, but WTF is Bandai thinking with putting a FA pack on this? The MG can barely tolerate it, so how the hell do they expect the PG to pull it off?
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# ? Oct 23, 2014 21:28 |
TaurusOxford posted:[timg] please. Hey man maybe the PG unicorn will be incredibly solid and stable.
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# ? Oct 23, 2014 21:32 |
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TaurusOxford posted:For my 2 cents on it, the PG Unicorn looks pretty good, but WTF is Bandai thinking with putting a FA pack on this? $$$, of course. edit: seriously, I am kind of mad about this. It seems anytime Bandai kits something that's been on my most-wanted list for a long time they whiff the hell out of it. I mean, who looks at this mess and says "Yes, the robotic equivalent of Marfan Syndrome is exactly the look we want here, no further justice could possibly be done for this, our one and only shot?" gently caress. Bimmi fucked around with this message at 22:21 on Oct 23, 2014 |
# ? Oct 23, 2014 21:39 |
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For my future HG plans after the GN-X and Throne Zwei, how are the Arche Gundam and Kampfer Amazing as kits?
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# ? Oct 23, 2014 21:53 |
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Bimmi posted:$$$, of course. You mean using rolled up hundred dollar bills to provide a cushion for when it inevitably falls off the shelf after collapsing under its own weight? That's genius!
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# ? Oct 23, 2014 22:10 |
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Darth Walrus posted:For my future HG plans after the GN-X and Throne Zwei, how are the Arche Gundam and Kampfer Amazing as kits? Arche Gundam is a bit plain looking, it's soooo red, and it's not broken up by much. Panel lining it improves it a great deal.
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# ? Oct 23, 2014 22:18 |
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BizarroAzrael posted:Arche Gundam is a bit plain looking, it's soooo red, and it's not broken up by much. Panel lining it improves it a great deal. Well, I was planning to get into panel-lining from day one (all I need is cotton swabs and a mechanical pencil? Easy), so that's not a big deal. No glaring flaws with the actual kits, then?
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# ? Oct 23, 2014 22:25 |
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# ? Mar 29, 2024 15:48 |
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TaurusOxford posted:For my 2 cents on it, the PG Unicorn looks pretty good, but WTF is Bandai thinking with putting a FA pack on this? The MG can barely tolerate it, so how the hell do they expect the PG to pull it off? It's a web-exclusive, they're not obligated to the same engineering standards. See: MG Norn's beam magnum falling apart if you point it down. Zwingley posted:I was wondering if you could expand on it a little with specific brush/paint recommendations. I signalnoise covered most of the main points, so all I can really add is don't worry about your brush/paint choices too much. Like yeah, cheapo $2 brushes are crap and you're not going to get a very good finish if you use watercolors or something, but the skill of the painter matters waaaay more than the tool they use. And you're not going to start as a genius, so just sit down and practice. It took me like, three kits before I really nailed down handbrushing. Two for airbrushing. EDIT: I will say that for brushes, you basically only need two. A finepoint one for details, and a broader one for painting whole surfaces. BlitzBlast fucked around with this message at 22:33 on Oct 23, 2014 |
# ? Oct 23, 2014 22:29 |