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AFK Werewolf posted:The clear coat I'm using made some of my panel lines run, does this happen often? Using Citadel Purity Coat that a friend gave to me for free. It even made a dry decal run, which actually looked kinda cool, but the panel lines make me kind of confused. All sprayed from the same distances and angels, no wind, just kind of cold outside, no humidity. When using the same kinds of paints you need to be very careful, as the topcoat can activate the undercoats/line washes and make them mobile again. This is why mil modelers always do alternating paints (ie oil based on top of water based). Unless your paints cure really hard (Tamiya acrylics) you will struggle to keep everything where you want it. From a quick google, it looks like there are lots of things that can go wrong with Purity coat, so best to just stick to future, and if you want it matted out, just add some matt base to it.
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Mar 26, 2014 23:58
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So am I nuts for making my first RG the Zeta? I have run out of HG's and its the last one in my pile. Should I just go for it, or go and get a non-transforming one to do first (note I haven't done any MG's either).
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Oct 23, 2014 10:21
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TaurusOxford posted:Just gonna give you fair warning now: If you want RG Zeta to be a model kit you can play with occasionally and transform, don't bother. It's a kit that you literally build, pose, and then never touch again cause it's a fragile mess. It does look like that, which is why I think I want to try another RG kit first, so this doesn't end up rolled up into a ball and then thrown into the corner. From the transformation step-by-steps on gunpla-gaijin I was expecting in multiple steps for it to fall apart. Would it be best to treat it as a model and glue everything and not treat it as a snap kit? Zwingley posted:What size a brush do you use and what kind of paint, to start? make sure you thin your paints (unless you want brush lines), use brush cleaner, maybe ghetto up a wet pallet (wet to the touch sponge with paper/thin fabric over it so the paint doesn't dry out while your using it). Good brushes are infinetly better than cheap brushes, but there is a bang-for-buck curve so don't buy the really expensive ones either. Don't try to mix different brands of paint together (ie tamiya acrylics + ciditel/vallehjo<sp> doesn't work). if you are doing coats ie primer then basecoat then filter then topcoat, you need to alternate different types of paint (ie enamel primer, then acrylic basecoat, then enamel filter, then acrylic topcoat) otherwise they will eat/activate the previous layer and mix up all weird looking (the exception to this is the tamiya acrylics as they are a weird resin/lacquer variant that when cured is crazy strong). Wibbleman fucked around with this message at 20:40 on Oct 23, 2014 |
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Oct 23, 2014 20:33
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) in particular, so pretty much anything you hafta say about how to not paint like an idiot is very welcome.
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Zwingley posted:Thanks for this! There's a hell of a lot here and I'll try to digest more/all of it later. Just another thing I had forgot to mention, before doing any gloss/matt coats let the paint cure properly (if your using tamiya, or testor's etc) as they let off some pretty nasty volitiles when drying and that can cause a gloss coat to go cloudy. Sometimes this can be as long as a week depending on the thinners and paints used. 1-2 days should be fine for most paints though, but the weird mr color metalisers can take up to a week to cure properly. so depening on how exotic the paint is (ie how funky smelling it is) its best to paint on a sunday, leave it for the work week and pick it up again on the friday night/saturday. This has the benefit of giving you some time, so you don't end up overdoing the painting/weathering.
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Oct 23, 2014 23:00
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BlitzBlast posted:Future's amazing use was actually discovered by the tabletop miniature crew! Pretty sure future was discovered by the airplane modeler nerds, as a way of making the clear plastic canopies look realistic. From there it was discovered that if you mix it with paint it gives a great eggshell finish for body paint. I do use Tamiya acrylics for handbrushing, I just use the lacquer thinner on them, but that makes it a bit "hot" so you really need to prime properly (I just airbrush on thinned mr surfacer 1000, with lacquer thinner again), if they are drying out to fast you can always use some retarder (this is why you want to use a wet pallet though as it stops this problem). Or just mix in some future as it acts as a leveler for the paint and doubles up as the retarder. On brushes, good enough is best. cheap 5c brushes will make you hate your life, but some nice Tamiya or Hasegawa brushes will make your life easier, I have some really good delta brushes but they were around $20 each so only for the fine point brushes which you don't really need on gunpla. Hand painting a HG/RG would be possible, but I wouldn't try on the bigger kits (ie the big HG's or the MG's and above).
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Oct 24, 2014 01:02
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They're pretty much all about finding household replacements for otherwise expensive equipment.