|
The tires/wheels already max out available space. I would love to go wider, but I would have to start cutting. I wired up the internally regulated coil and installed the new distributor today. I also checked the valves and set the timing (34 degrees advanced at 3k rpm, per the instruction sheet). I balanced a mirror on the steering wheel so I could see the tach, then used one hand to move the throttle linkage, one hand to hold the timing gun, and my nose to turn the dial on the light. It worked... Anyway, it seems to work. I also moved the electric fan temp switch from the bottom radiator hose to a (now) spare hole up top. It was running pretty hot, and I think I originally put the temp sensor on the output side of the radiator. The new locations seems to be much better on temp. I did pick up a generic ~1.8ohm ballast resistor at the parts store today, but things seem to be working with this other coil, so I will leave well enough alone for now.
|
#
?
Jun 11, 2014 01:54
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 27, 2024 12:07 |
|
|
jamal posted:Yeah, especially the front tire shots. Very cool watching the tire flex on turns.
|
|
#
?
Jun 11, 2014 02:02
|
|
|
What I mean are wider wheels for the same width tire. They give the tire a bit more stability so it doesn't shift back and forth as much.
|
|
#
?
Jun 11, 2014 02:39
|
|
|
jamal posted:What I mean are wider wheels for the same width tire. They give the tire a bit more stability so it doesn't shift back and forth as much. Aha! My current wheels are 15x7, +25, which everyone claims is a perfect fit. I have to use a 5mm or 8mm spacer in the front, because the tires rub the struts (they also rub the tie rod end). Something like this Kosei K4R is 15x8, +20, and a little lighter than the K1R I am using (.2 lbs). I don't want to drop $600 right now, but I will definitely keep it in mind for the future. Thank you for the tip. http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/Whee...=All&sort=Brand My next big purchase for the car will probably be a clutch and aluminum flywheel (maybe after this season). The flywheel is $475, but everyone says it makes a HUGE difference (drops the stock 16.5lbs down to 8lbs).
|
|
#
?
Jun 11, 2014 12:10
|
|
|
So 225s on a 7" wheel? I do the same thing but it is not ideal, but hey, I got the wheels for free and 225/45 is the right diameter and I probably have more grip than a 205. Ideally I would use a lower offset 8" wheel but keep the same size tire.
|
|
#
?
Jun 11, 2014 20:41
|
|
|
I did the 17x7 plus 225/45/17 game with RS3s - there was a lot of sidewall slop. jamal is right about getting a wider wheel. Jealous of 15" wheel prices 
|
|
#
?
Jun 11, 2014 20:55
|
|
|
I am running the 205 BFG Rivals, and there is no room at all. They rub the strut tube, steering endlink, and barely clear the fender. I'm pretty stuck with 205, I think (though I have heard the BFG Rival 205 is wider than spec). So I would be running a 205 tire on an 8" wheel if I did a wheel "upgrade" at some point. I really don't want to cut the fenders, and they are rolled as flat as possible. A +20 offset vs my current +25 would negate the need for my 5mm spacer, correct?
|
|
#
?
Jun 11, 2014 23:22
|
|
|
Tread width of that tire is 7.8" so yeah, pretty wide for a 205. My 225 v12s are 7.7 and a 225 RS3 is 8.0. Even though the spec sheet on tirerack recommends a 6.5" rim with a range of 5.5-7.5 that is based off the label and not the actual size. The +20 will move the center of the tread out 5mm, BUT the inside lip of the rim will be 7.7mm closer to the strut. As long as you have that much space from the bead seat/rim lip you're fine. Might not be worth spending money on a new set of wheels given all the other stuff you might need to buy like a whole set of tires, but it would help a little. Also, where are you at for alignment? Best way to figure it out is by taking tire temps, but chances are cornering speeds and times will drop all the way up to -4 degrees or more up front. jamal fucked around with this message at 04:57 on Jun 12, 2014 |
|
#
?
Jun 12, 2014 04:55
|
|
|
I have put in some major hours and the paint/body stuff is pretty much done. The interior is next. I will try to get more pictures up at some point, but here is how it sat last night. (I also made some mounts and installed some big Hella fog lights I have had sitting around collecting dust for 8+ years). Jamal - Here is the alignment sheet. The camber is maxed out :/ 
CatBus fucked around with this message at 15:10 on Jul 5, 2014 |
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2014 14:49
|
|
|
Ok, I suck at attaching images. I will try to upload it somewhere.   
CatBus fucked around with this message at 14:56 on Jul 5, 2014 |
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2014 14:50
|
|
|
I have been busy, but things have been going pretty well for the car. 1) I stripped everything out of the interior, and the stupid tar sound damper stuff sucked. I tried dry ice, but had the most success with the propane torch for the bulk of it, then tons of xylene for the residue. All the dried glue in the roof sucked. I DIY'd some LizardSkin for the interior by mixing latex paint with RC model airplane "micro bubbles." That went OK. I also did some POR on the floorboards before the "LizardSkin," then did bed liner over the "LizardSkin." 2) I put in a new distributor and redid the timing. I did another dyno day a few weeks ago, and it was up to 111hp/115lb-ft (about 8hp more). 3) I added a breather oil catch can (finally). 4) The bottom of the gas pedal kept popping off of the pivot balls, so I bought a new gas pedal. That is popping off, so I fixed it right up with a structural zip tie. 5) I had a problem where the car would get stuck with a random high idle of 1500-2500RPMs. I traced this to worn stuff in the throttle body letting the butterfly drag on the bottom and get stuck at almost-closed. I pulled all of that apart and made a shim from a copper washer. 6) Electric fan? I can't remember if I posted about that. 7) I added the other two Innovate guages: Water temp/voltage and Oil pressure/oil temp, and installed those with the AFR in a triple gauge pod on the dash. You can see it in action here on the dyno day: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nQtVCbaJRpw Exterior video from the dyno day: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xL0dIIib3D4 8) I have continued to autox the heck out of it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kK0vWUSnjTA 9) I also bombed around some backroads one day. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6jSHKxTqlfI 10) Several years ago, one of my students drew me a chemistry-themed pirate flag after I convinced him to read One Piece. I had another former student whip that into some decals a few weeks ago, and I have been sticking them to everything. You can see it in the autox video for item #8. I apparently suck at attaching images.
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2014 00:33
|
|
|
Oh yeah, I also pulled the valve cover and top timing chain cover to figure out the cam. It is an American Camshaft 280b (which is a regrind similar to the popular Schrick 282). I still don't know anything about the engine, other than the seemingly brand new head and killer pressure test (160psi on five cranks, tops out at 210). The oil pressure seems nuts to me. I think it tops out the sender at 100 psi on the dyno, but it is like 75 psi at 3500RPM. The BMW guys tell me this is normal... With that in mind, it seems like the hp is a little low. Factory tii setups were 130hp at the crank, and I am 111hp at the wheels (on a very conservative dyno). That sounds like I have pretty much stock power. With the cam and ??? done to the head/engine, I would expect a little more. I leaned out the AFR a little with the throttle body work, and dropped the idle to about 900RPM. I have not had a chance to drive it, but the air mixture adjustment is very tricky, so that may add some missing hp. I may be able to notice a difference tomorrow. CatBus fucked around with this message at 01:37 on Oct 5, 2014 |
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2014 01:34
|
|
|
Saw this today, thought it belonged here.
|
|
#
?
Nov 4, 2014 21:52
|
|
|
City17 posted:Saw this today, thought it belonged here. Awesome! I need one of those (or seven or eight). What is it really for? In car related news, I put about 300 miles on the car a couple weeks ago driving down to Bowling Green for the first autox at the National Corvette Museum Racetrack (in the parking lot). The car did great. I have been worried about the clutch, because it engages close to the top of the pedal, so I pulled the transmission yesterday. I was planning to switch to an aluminum flywheel, so it is a good time to do the clutch anyway. I had noticed a rattle at idle with the clutch out, and the throw out bearing seems fine. I read this could also be caused by a bad input shaft bearing. There seems to be a fair bit of play in the input shaft, but someone said this may be normal: Getrag 5sp shaft play: http://youtu.be/Vt_QVCx5rik Thoughts?
|
|
#
?
Nov 5, 2014 16:23
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 27, 2024 12:07 |
|
|
How loud is the rattle? My NB Miata rattled at idle in neutral with the clutch out, and it went until ~120k before the throwout bearing finally died of presumably unrelated causes.
|
|
#
?
Nov 5, 2014 16:45
|
|
