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Im watching the Everest show by Discovery, on Netflix right now, specifically the Death Zone episode. It's really mind blowing, just how many people are there, and how there are just.. Standing in line. It's like they're standing in line for a roller coaster. Just on a time limit until they die or get out. edited: its by discovery, not on it Sammus fucked around with this message at May 24, 2012 around 06:17 |
| # ? May 24, 2012 05:55 |
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| # ? May 20, 2013 05:33 |
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Has anyone estimated how many decades until Everest is completely layered with dead bodies and climbers will be traversing the dead frozen bodies of their "comrades" instead of rock or ice? Everest: Mountain of flesh
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| # ? May 24, 2012 05:58 |
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What was most shocking to me about Into Thin Air was the account about how late the exhibition leader (I think it was Fischer) was at reaching the summit. The turn around time was no later than 2pm I believe, but he was still pushing on as late as 4pm. It's one thing when amateurs get in over their heads but don't even realize it. But this guy was a pro and was still pushing forward two hours past the absolute latest time to turn around. Hubris at it's finest right there. If the leader of the exhibition is that fool hearty then a lot more people are going to die. How only six people died is amazing to me. Krakauer was a very experienced climber (but not at high altitude) and he was wasted after making the summit. He stumbled back into camp IV spent and, probably, near death. I simply fail to understand how anyone who came in after him made it at all.
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| # ? May 24, 2012 06:26 |
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SpitztheGreat posted:What was most shocking to me about Into Thin Air was the account about how late the exhibition leader (I think it was Fischer) was at reaching the summit. The turn around time was no later than 2pm I believe, but he was still pushing on as late as 4pm. It's one thing when amateurs get in over their heads but don't even realize it. But this guy was a pro and was still pushing forward two hours past the absolute latest time to turn around. Hubris at it's finest right there. If the leader of the exhibition is that fool hearty then a lot more people are going to die. How only six people died is amazing to me. Krakauer was a very experienced climber (but not at high altitude) and he was wasted after making the summit. He stumbled back into camp IV spent and, probably, near death. I simply fail to understand how anyone who came in after him made it at all. Yeah, it's really just obnoxious at this point, these tour companies are so competitive and get so much money from clients that they're doing everything they can to ensure you get to the top of Everest. It's probably better for them if you die than if they have to tell you they can't let you carry on. A lot of climbers take lots of stupid risks. I've climbed Mt. Whitney twice; on the first trip we stopped and turned around because of a lightning storm. This of course did not stop about 10 other people from just going on ahead to the treeless summit, heavily at risk of being struck by lightning. Stupid. And this is for a low-cost climb on a pretty easy mountain. Of course they are going to not listen to reason and the limits of their own bodies when they've paid $50k to climb Mt. Everest.
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| # ? May 24, 2012 06:46 |
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Hogarth Hughes posted:Of course they are going to not listen to reason and the limits of their own bodies when they've paid $50k to climb Mt. Everest. I imagine in a lot of cases it's less about the money than about shame. Not wanting to go home and face their friends and family after telling them for years about how they were going to do it and it was going to be the greatest achievement of their lives. Of course most people would prefer their friends accepted failure and came back to them alive, but shame makes people behave in stupid ways sometimes. Throw in a healthy dose of hypoxia on top and there you go.
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| # ? May 24, 2012 06:51 |
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Like I said, I get when amateurs do stupid poo poo when they've paid their life savings to do it. But Fischer was dragging up the rear, he was the last guy from his exhibition still attempting the summit. He'd already reached the top before. Why was he still pushing on at such a late hour? Stupid, epically stupid. Edit- I want to clear this up. When Krakauer writes about the air tanks doesn't he say that they only have the O2 levels of base camp? He very clearly says that it's not like you're breathing oxygen from sea level. On top of that the flow is extremely restricted so as to get as much time out of the tank as possible. I'm pretty sure Krakauer mentions that when his teammate accidentally turned the valve of his tank to full that he (Krakauer) suddenly felt great and didn't know why. Krakauer was briefly breathing the full content of O2 from 17,000 feet, which felt great. It's not that you gain much from using "English Air", but rather it's about slowing down how much brain you're losing without using it. SpitztheGreat fucked around with this message at May 24, 2012 around 06:59 |
| # ? May 24, 2012 06:51 |
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Torka posted:Throw in a healthy dose of hypoxia on top and there you go. This more than anything accounts for the strange behavior on really high altitude climbs. A few people deal with it very well, but some deal with it incredibly poorly. You ask them how many kids they have and they'll tell you Tuesday.
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| # ? May 24, 2012 06:58 |
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Perhaps he was literally not in a sane state of mind. It's part of the craziness of this whole endeavor: in a situation where every decision you make must be sound in order to not get you killed (and you can still die anyway), the conditions themselves combine with biological facts to rob you of your ability to reason properly. It's a bit like if the only way you were allowed to drive cars was staggeringly drunk. You and everyone else out on the freeway are all totally plastered: it's the rules. Sound like a good idea to go for a drive tonight? e. If you think about it this way, it really underlines how insane it is to try to summit Everest. Even if you think you can count on yourself and your guides (you can't), you certainly can't count on all the other people out there who are also out of their minds. Any one of which can make a small mistake that gets you killed even if you're doing everything right. Such as being stuck behind 50 people trying to descend while one person faffs about loving up at a bottleneck. As your oxygen depletes and the day goes by and what can you do? Nothing. That other person may cost you your life and you've never even met them. And the only people who might save him, or you, are one of the various folks standing around totally hosed in the brain just like you are, if not moreso. Based on what I've read in this thread, that Canadian girl may well have survived if the mountain had been even a little bit less crowded. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at May 24, 2012 around 07:03 |
| # ? May 24, 2012 06:58 |
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bonne chance posted:One of our family friends, a wildlife photographer, also runs a small Himalayan trek business. It's an amazing business model with a central focus on improving education and health outcomes in the areas the group operates in by paying its sherpas decent (western) wages and reinvesting in the community - our friend doesn't pay himself anything and is bankrolled by his photography. He has a strict no-Everest policy, but nonetheless he is constantly approached by people here wanting him to help them reach the summit. 100% of these people have never climbed anything higher than 1000m. Maybe 50% get persuaded by him to tackle one of his easier hikes. The rest go off to find another company because "climbing Everest is my dream!" It boggles the mind. 1000m? Really? That's... not even that high for the appalachians. It's like running a mile then trying for a triathlon. Hell, Mt Washington in Hampshire alone could possible kill such an inexperienced climber.
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| # ? May 24, 2012 07:30 |
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Frostwerks posted:1000m? Really? That's... not even that high for the appalachians. It's like running a mile then trying for a triathlon. Hell, Mt Washington in Hampshire alone could possible kill such an inexperienced climber. Sorry, that was me lowballing the altitude of our most popular ski resort, Mt. Buller, by about 800 metres. Yes, most of our friend's prospective clients think that a ski trip is appropriate preparation for a go at Everest. (There's not really an appropriate altitude training ground in this country. Our tallest mountain, Mt. Kosciuszko, is only 2200m or so).
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| # ? May 24, 2012 07:47 |
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This kind of poo poo makes me a little scared. Not necessarily for myself, but for my father. He's climbed Aconcagua, Kilimajaro, Montblanc, Denali/McKinley, Whitney, and a bunch of smaller summits like Tocllaraju and Ishinca, and wants to climb Everest some day. He's spent all year so far wrangling with Russian authorities to get things in line to climb Mt. Elbrus. I don't necessarily doubt his technical ability, but Everest is literally a loving dice roll. The rest of the mountains he's climbed aren't coated in dead bodies, but they aren't 5 goddamn miles high either.
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| # ? May 24, 2012 08:28 |
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The Entire Universe posted:I don't necessarily doubt his technical ability, but Everest is literally a loving dice roll. The rest of the mountains he's climbed aren't coated in dead bodies, but they aren't 5 goddamn miles high either. As an armchair mountaineer with no climbing experience and whos only accomplishment is running up the Zugspitze (3000m) in a foot race, from what I've read Everest is really not technically difficult. The problem is the elevation, the weather window and, as we have seen last weekend and probably again this weekend, the traffic. If someone is stuck on the hillary steps and you can't get down, you are hosed. elwood fucked around with this message at May 24, 2012 around 08:45 |
| # ? May 24, 2012 08:37 |
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elwood posted:As an armchair mountaineer with no climbing experience and whos only accomplishment is running up the Zugspitze (3000m) in a foot race, from what I've read Everest is really not technically difficult. The problem is the elevation, the weather window and, as we have seen last weekend and probably again this weekend, the traffic. If someone is stuck on the hillary steps or even worse at the second step, and you can't get down, you are hosed. That's precisely what scares the piss out of me. The fact that surviving that drat thing is a dice roll/coin flip/whatever. Sheer luck.
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| # ? May 24, 2012 08:46 |
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drkhrs2020 posted:I didn't know enough about the gear to say anything, but I was curious if it was appropriate for a Everest climb. What specifically was an issue with her gear? The issue isn't about the gear, it's about how it betrays an utter lack of experience and understanding. A climber who attempts to summit Everest should be experienced enough to know what equipment to take without needing to copy-paste an inventory list from the internet.
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| # ? May 24, 2012 12:15 |
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elwood posted:As an armchair mountaineer with no climbing experience and whos only accomplishment is running up the Zugspitze (3000m) in a foot race, from what I've read Everest is really not technically difficult. The problem is the elevation, the weather window and, as we have seen last weekend and probably again this weekend, the traffic. If someone is stuck on the hillary steps and you can't get down, you are hosed.
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| # ? May 24, 2012 12:30 |
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Modus Operandi posted:At least with technical difficulties it depends on your skill level and it's a natural barrier for those that aren't qualified. Mt. Everest is like a giant bug zapper for the wealthy and foolish. Tourist Everest climbing doesn't really require much technical skill though other than basic crampon use: there are fixed lines everywhere so most of it involves just hauling themselves up a rope and doing what they are told and letting the guides and Sherpas sort the rest out. They don't even have to put their own tents up Mountaineering in general is always a game of dice: almost every mountaineering hero you can name has been killed by bad luck or a moment of poor judgement despite their years of experience. Ireland Sucks fucked around with this message at May 24, 2012 around 13:03 |
| # ? May 24, 2012 13:00 |
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johnsonrod posted:Not exactly a POV but this a pretty cool video of an Irish climber on his summit day in 2008. The scariest thing to me in watching the first part of that video is that it's a bright sunny day but the sky is loving black! Also, speaking to the elevation: I'm from Pennsylvania (1,100 ft evelvation) and last year I was at a wedding in Colorado in Estes Park. We were staying in Denver and drove up to Estes (7200 ft elevation) just for the wedding/reception. While the wedding and view were awesome, it was barely enjoyable. Half of our group from PA that flew out for the wedding ended up getting altitude sickness. It loving sucks, big time. I can't imagine what being at 29,000 ft would be like when 7,200 ft kicked my rear end. I also can't fathom getting all those symptoms and thinking "I am going to keep going", every instinct and thought I had was "how much time until I get away from this loving mountain?" I'm summary, people who climb Everest are insane.
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| # ? May 24, 2012 14:56 |
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Zapp Brannigan posted:The scariest thing to me in watching the first part of that video is that it's a bright sunny day but the sky is loving black! I live in Colorado and have been to Estes Park many times and really love going up Trail Ridge Road which gets up to 12,183 ft. When I took my parents up there who live at 85 ft they could feel the effect of the altitude on them. I see the effect that it had on them and think how insane it must be to go up Mt Everest. I keep saying that I want to climb up Long's Peak but say whats the point, its up at 14,259 ft and above treeline. I love to go hiking in the mountains here in Colorado but its more from seeing all the vegetation I can't imagine how desolate it must look on these super high mountains.
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| # ? May 24, 2012 15:39 |
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Slave posted:Tourist Everest climbing doesn't really require much technical skill though other than basic crampon use: there are fixed lines everywhere so most of it involves just hauling themselves up a rope and doing what they are told and letting the guides and Sherpas sort the rest out. They don't even have to put their own tents up It always reminds me of that Simpson's episode where Homer tries to climb that huge mountain. 'What? You're dragging me up? I don't need that, go home!" "No, Brad and Neil were quite insistent that you not die."
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| # ? May 24, 2012 16:20 |
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god this blows posted:I live in Colorado and have been to Estes Park many times and really love going up Trail Ridge Road which gets up to 12,183 ft. When I took my parents up there who live at 85 ft they could feel the effect of the altitude on them. I see the effect that it had on them and think how insane it must be to go up Mt Everest. I keep saying that I want to climb up Long's Peak but say whats the point, its up at 14,259 ft and above treeline. I love to go hiking in the mountains here in Colorado but its more from seeing all the vegetation I can't imagine how desolate it must look on these super high mountains. Well it looks a bit like Mars on top of most of the 14'ers. You should definitely do Long's Peak sometime, it's a great hike. I wouldn't make it your first though.
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| # ? May 24, 2012 16:22 |
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It still blows my mind every time I read that Everest base camp is at 17,000 feet. I live in the mountain west and have seen a few high peeks and thier loving base camp is about 4000 ft. higher than I've ever been.
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| # ? May 24, 2012 17:49 |
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InterFaced posted:It still blows my mind every time I read that Everest base camp is at 17,000 feet. I live in the mountain west and have seen a few high peeks and thier loving base camp is about 4000 ft. higher than I've ever been. I trained for six months to trek to (not climb) Everest, and I did it mainly by climbing fourteeners in Colorado. I thought I was in pretty good shape and well-prepared for Nepal but it still took me right up to the edge of my endurance to make it and that was just going to base camp. I'm completely baffled by the Everest tourists who think you just jog a few miles a day and then show up to bag your summit like it ain't no thang.
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| # ? May 24, 2012 18:02 |
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InterFaced posted:It still blows my mind every time I read that Everest base camp is at 17,000 feet. I live in the mountain west and have seen a few high peeks and thier loving base camp is about 4000 ft. higher than I've ever been. Here's an experiment for anyone who is gung-ho they that could save everyone on the mountain top who collapsed and/or get some of the dead bodies down. A) Wait for a really cold and windy day next winter. Preferably after a heavy snow or ice storm. B) Go buy a 200lb side of beef from the butcher and stick it on the roof of your house. C) In full snow gear, climb a rickety ladder up onto your roof, then somehow manage to lift the slab of unresponsive beef and carry it back down the ladder with you without falling. D) The average house is about 20-25 feet high, while the death zone alone on Everest is over a mile. So repeat this procedure about 200 times. And remember, if you slip a single time, or simply get too tired and winded. You're now dead too.
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| # ? May 24, 2012 18:21 |
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Vakal posted:Here's an experiment for anyone who is gung-ho they that could save everyone on the mountain top who collapsed and/or get some of the dead bodies down. E) Do all of this while drunk and/or on some kind of sedative to simulate the fuzziness of altitude sickness. Please bold this and put it in the OP. The last thread had way too many people calling others horrible selfish monsters because they made a logical argument that it's not simple and easy (or even possible) to save people from the death zone. poo poo is crazy up there.
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| # ? May 24, 2012 18:30 |
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And as callous as it may seem, you have to remember that if their positions were reversed. the result would be the same. They know going in that there's no rescue in the death zone.
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| # ? May 24, 2012 18:35 |
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Basket of Kittens posted:Are there any good POV vids of the death zone ascent? The IMAX Everest film that Dave Breashears put together has to be one of the most breathtaking Everest flicks I've ever seen. Imaging hauling winterized IMAX cameras to the roof of the world for a 90-second shot. Vimeo has it in five parts: http://vimeo.com/28755389 But if it ever comes back around in an IMAX theater, run, don't walk to get tickets. It's that good. His book, High Exposure: An Enduring Passion for Everest and Unforgiving Places is a pretty good read as well. I, too, am fascinated with Everest as an armchair mountain climber and have spent far too many Mays glued to various ascent blogs Also, PT6A posted:And as callous as it may seem, you have to remember that if their positions were reversed. the result would be the same. They know going in that there's no rescue in the death zone. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pn0WdJx-Wkw#t=1s Agrikk fucked around with this message at May 24, 2012 around 18:43 |
| # ? May 24, 2012 18:40 |
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I Might Be Adam posted:E) Do all of this while drunk and/or on some kind of sedative to simulate the fuzziness of altitude sickness. You forgot F) Do all this with your nose taped shut and breathing through a straw to simulate how much oxygen you're getting. Which makes stories of actual rescues (or crazy superhuman poo poo like The Belay) that much more amazing.
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| # ? May 24, 2012 19:08 |
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After the last thread, I totally understand the pull to want to climb Everest. Even though I don't have an extra $50k, I have acrophobia to the point that I don't like climbing stepstools, have a bum knee, and got bad altitude sickness the week I spent in Denver, I still want to do it. I've been waiting for you to show up in this thread, and I just wanted to say that your commentary in the last thread was incredibly informative and hearing from someone who was actually there was awesome. Please keep throwing us Everest wannabees more bones.
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| # ? May 24, 2012 19:08 |
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http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/nova-...st-climber.htmlquote:A Nova Scotia man who's been to the top of Everest said Canadians should be celebrating the success of a Toronto woman who reached the summit this weekend but died on her way back down the mountain. Holy gently caress how irresponsible is this guy? Someone who's actually been to the summit cheerleading the whole 'follow your dreams' bullshit is going to do nothing but convince more dangerously under qualified people to try to climb Everest.
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| # ? May 24, 2012 19:19 |
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I'm sure a major part of her dream was, you know, NOT DYING while trying to accomplish this.
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| # ? May 24, 2012 19:32 |
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drkhrs2020 posted:http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/nova-...st-climber.html It doesn't even count as a successful summit if you don't make it back down.
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| # ? May 24, 2012 19:36 |
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SpitztheGreat posted:Like I said, I get when amateurs do stupid poo poo when they've paid their life savings to do it. But Fischer was dragging up the rear, he was the last guy from his exhibition still attempting the summit. He'd already reached the top before. Why was he still pushing on at such a late hour? Stupid, epically stupid. It was also what he had planned to do. As people have pointed out several times, you are fundamentally retarded in the death zone. You can't make good decisions in the moment. Maybe he made a bad decision. Maybe he was just following what he had planned to do before he left base camp -- go to the top, make sure no clients were there, come down. Keep in mind, if that storm hadn't blown in, everyone probably would have made it back just fine and we wouldn't have a story. It's not ideal to go down after dark, and that's why people avoid doing it, but it can be done. Familiarity breeds contempt, and he might have thought that it wasn't that risky for someone of his capabilities. He was probably right, 90% of the time, that decision still gets you back to camp. Of course on Everest, that 10% is enough to kill even the most experienced, well prepared climber.
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| # ? May 24, 2012 19:42 |
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Agrikk posted:The IMAX Everest film that Dave Breashears put together has to be one of the most breathtaking Everest flicks I've ever seen. Imaging hauling winterized IMAX cameras to the roof of the world for a 90-second shot. Everyone who's read Into Thin Air already knows this, but its worth mentioning that this IMAX film was made during/after the 1996 dissaster that the book documents. I've never seen it in an IMAX theater but I'd love to, the timing of when it was made just makes it more surreal. I've never read the Breashear's book you mentioned but some quick googling gave me it's prologue and it convinced me to track a copy down. http://www.nytimes.com/books/first/...shers-high.html He mentions the film, and coming across the bodies of his friends while trying to finish it after the '96 dissaster. Edit: Damnit. Somehow i got passed the NYtimes paywall now its not working. Edit2: Apparently googling "High Exposure: An Enduring Passion for Everest and Unforgiving Places prologue" gives you a link to the article I posted that works, but clicking the link above doesn't. The internet is getting too confusing for me. InterFaced fucked around with this message at May 24, 2012 around 20:17 |
| # ? May 24, 2012 20:05 |
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The Entire Universe posted:That's precisely what scares the piss out of me. The fact that surviving that drat thing is a dice roll/coin flip/whatever. Sheer luck. It sounds like your father is prepared, experienced, skilled, and knows what he's going into. Which means he'll likely be in that 90% that comes back down alive. Now, if your father wanted to scale Annapurna, then I'd be concerned. That mountain is fickle and kills people just for the sport of it. Experienced people too, because those are the ones climbing it, not tourists.
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| # ? May 24, 2012 20:18 |
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I've seen the IMAX Everest film in an IMAX theater. Just be prepared -- there's a downward shot of a climber crossing the Icefall crevasses on a ladder which will loving murder you if you're acrophobic, and there's a downward shot of a climber zipping down a loose rope and spinning around which will loving murder you if you get motion sick. Other than that, it's amazing.
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| # ? May 24, 2012 20:19 |
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alg posted:Its rather telling that the kid who saved another kid, going for youngest Israeli to climb it, wanted to be the highest rescue ever. Gotta have something to brag to your rich friends about. The guy who he rescued sounds ridiculous. From the photo gallery: quote:Earlier this month, Grayson Schaffer, who for the past six weeks has been reporting from Everest’s Base Camp, wrote a profile about a 46-year-old Turkish New Yorker named Aydin Irmak and his quixotic attempt to carry his beloved 33-pound, steel-frame singlespeed to the top of the world. For various reasons, including problems with his permits and the fact that Irmak had no mountaineering experience, he wasn’t able to realize that goal. Why? ![]() That looks safe, especially for a first-timer!
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| # ? May 24, 2012 21:09 |
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I Might Be Adam posted:E) Do all of this while drunk and/or on some kind of sedative to simulate the fuzziness of altitude sickness. I've got almost all the books from last year, but there were one or two I didn't manage to get. I think I know what I need to buy now...
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| # ? May 24, 2012 21:31 |
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I can't imagine how awful it must be being in that 300-line long queue. I'd feel like a tourist on a guided tour, being stuck in lines all the time and having to rely on the pace of others. I wouldn't want to suffer through that in the best weather, even if they paid me.
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| # ? May 24, 2012 21:39 |
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I vaguely remember reading a book when I was younger about a teenager that climbed Everest. This was around 1996 or so, and it was for young adults. I was obsessed with the mountain for a while after that. About the Canadian woman, there's an interesting comment on her website about how there's been 10 women who have reached the summit, yet on her website she says she is going to be the 4th. If you can screw up something as simple as that when doing your research...
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| # ? May 24, 2012 22:05 |
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| # ? May 20, 2013 05:33 |
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Besides Mount Everest being the highest point in the world, I see little point in climbing it, mostly because everyone else is doing it. K2 is a lot more challenging in every way if that's what you want, Annapurna, Kangchenjunga and Nanga Parbat are all more likely to kill you if you want a suicide mission and there are technical climbs like Baintha Brakk and Trango Towers for people who want ridiculous difficulty. I'd wager that half of all the people who climb Mount Everest are millionaires with a midlife crisis and a bucket-list to cross off. E: Seriously, look at this loving mountain
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| # ? May 24, 2012 22:18 |

































