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Facebook seems to have multiple chess apps associated with it. Are any worthwhile? Which is/are the best? I like FICS for free stuff but the user base seems so small.
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Mar 25, 2014 18:18
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I don't know about the rest of you, but I am finding the iOS app for Chess.com to be pretty buggy in terms of either myself or my opponents having a big problem losing connection during a game and having massive time issues as a result. So I've lost a number of games where I was either in a winning position or evenish but wound up losing because of massive amounts of clock getting eaten by connection issues. In a way it's kind of all right since it makes me jaded to losing and therefore I have less "fear of losing" anxiety and play more (the same sort of barrier I had to go through to compete more at Starcraft 2), but I used to play with the web browser and don't remember having such issues, or having those issues with FICS.
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Apr 4, 2015 07:43
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Arrgytehpirate posted:How can I learn to recognize a mate from like 13 moves out? I won the below game in 68 moves but the chess.com engine started saying I had a path to mate around the early 40s. As others have said, you don't have to brute force calculate your way to a win if you have overwhelming advantage. So for instance, in the game you posted, here's the position after move 43. ...h5:  You look at the big picture - you're up a whole rook and 2 pawns, with a passed pawn 3 squares away from queening. Furthermore your rook constrains his king to a small part of the board. So the main issue is, what is the method to win, to checkmate Black's king, from here? The way to do it is to queen your f pawn, or force him to sacrifice his knight trying to prevent this, after which you queen one of your other pawns. You don't have to calculate out the exact sequences of moves as long as you know the method. In the position, the only way to prevent the f pawn queening is for Black's knight to either capture or blockade the pawn at f6 or f8, after which White's bishop takes the Black knight off the board and Black can't make any moves except with his king. At this point there are two ways to win. You can either leave the pawns alone entirely and administer mate with White's king and rook, with maybe a little support from the bishop, or you can use your rook to keep the Black king in prison on the left side of the board while the White king comes around and removes the final Black pawn and then queens his g or h pawn and uses queen and rook to administer mate. As long as you know the method of administering mate with your King and Rook against a lone King, you don't need to do much calculation as long as you avoid stalemate and throwing away your rook. You do need to be able to perform the method efficiently so you don't wind up throwing away a won game into a draw or loss because of time. As far as checkmates against a castled position if you play and study a lot of games you will recognize patterns where certain types of mating attack can be applied. For instance if White is king side castled and advances his h pawn to h3 to drive away a pesky bishop or knight from g4 or prevent a knight or bishop from landing there, that's a pattern where under the right circumstances Black could sacrifice a bishop for the g and h pawns in order to peel open the White king's position for a mating attack. But here calculation IS important, if you are making such a sacrifice you have to be pretty certain you can either administer mate, force White to give up enough material to compensate the sacrifice in order to prevent mate, or wind up with positional advantages that at least compensate the loss of material. Mating attacks that come up one move short result in losses much of the time. Another example of patterns: If White is king side castled but has fianchettoed a light squared bishop to g2 as part of his defense, there are methods to either drive away or force the exchange of those bishops. Once the bishop is gone, the light squares around the castled position are available for queens, knights etc. to park on as part of a mating attack. Again the specific calculations are very important particularly if material sacrifice is involved. If you've ever been a victim of, or administered, a smothered mate, it has a very specific pattern of weakness in the castled position that leads to the possibility of smothered mate. You learn to see it as it appears, or even a move or two ahead if you're trying to create that position.
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Jan 2, 2017 20:51
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Elyv posted:I was playing a game of blitz with my coworker and we ended up in a position very similar to this(I don't remember exactly where the kings or rook were, because, you know, blitz): If White can come up with a sequence of moves where he exchanges the rook for Black's bishop and pawn but can maintain the opposition in front of his pawn then it's an easy win. I don't know if there's a way to force this though.
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Jan 4, 2017 02:20
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It helps to also have conducted, and also have been the victim of, mating attacks that start with, say, a piece sacrifice for two pawns from the castled king's position. This gives you a sense of how great the risk is in a given position. So if a bishop can be sacrificed for two pawns, exposing the king, with the queen now on site to participate in mating threats, and there are supporting pieces or pawns well positioned for the attack and a dearth of pieces that can promptly arrive for the defense, then it's often well worth it. Sometimes even if the mating attack falls a bit short the threats can compel at least equalization of material or better. But simply jumping into such a sacrifice willy nilly and coming up a move short in the attack can leave you with a losing material disadvantage. Edit: So if you see the elements of a strong mating attack by the opponent if you introduce that pawn weakness, you should consider not doing it or parrying or addressing the pin in other ways.
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Feb 18, 2017 11:00
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I almost feel like the success of the Polgars is strong evidence that women have a hell of a lot more potential as chess players than we have any idea right now. I doubt there are many dads who have tried to raise their daughters to be competitive chess monsters, and for them to be so good suggests that it's probably not just luck, that they just happened to be the women who were genetically and temperamentally well suited to be good at chess, but that if women played and competed in chess in anywhere near the numbers that men did that we'd see a lot more Polgars and potentially a female Fischer or Kasparov eventually. Now obviously that remains to be proven. I seem to remember reading some commentary by (?)Kasparov a long time ago expressing his belief that a woman could not become world champ because the testosterone/aggression element of dominating the game and the opponent in competition was something that men DID have genetically over women and was important to winning tournaments, and I'm not entirely certain this thinking is wrong, but again, it doesn't rule out that there would arise a woman with the needed characteristics. It's just the odds of that woman meeting up with the right mentors and entering into the world of competitive chess at an early enough age, and sticking with it to become best in the world, might be a lot lower than for a man, if that way of thinking is correct.
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Jun 25, 2017 15:58
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Bilirubin posted:Also do folks have favorite books to teach one how to play better? The market seems saturated and I'm sure there is a lot of crap/historical styles only appreciated once the current game is learned so I'd appreciate any suggestions (I've only read so far ITT so apologies if this gets brought up every few pages). Of the books mentioned earlier, Chernev's "Logical Chess: Move by Move" was probably the single most influential for me. The device of literally explaining the rationale for every single move, even if it's as simple as "develops a piece and helps control the center" was really helpful. I would also add this one by Chernev: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0671211145/ref=dbs_a_def_rwt_hsch_vapi_tpbk_p1_i4 I think it's published under different names including "Winning Chess Traps" or something. The point is the book is all about tactics and consists of a whole bunch of positions, all drawn from real games, where various tactics are in the position. Pins, discovered attack, forks/double attack etc. The positions/problems are organized into chapters devoted to that type of tactic. Not only are tactics great fun but as a ?beginnerish? player you will win and lose a LOT more games through these kind of tactics, and going up or down by a piece or worse as a result, than from any other reason. I'm LordYama on chess.com and I'll send you a friend request.
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Nov 28, 2020 23:42
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I aspire to one day cause the world's best player to rage on stream: https://clips.twitch.tv/GlamorousBitterPterodactylFUNgineer
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Nov 29, 2020 21:47
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Is there a Discord where chessgoons can hang and chat, that's a little less unwieldy looking for a game rather than just challenging people you see online?
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Nov 30, 2020 03:55
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Bilirubin posted:I am so bad at this. I will get better though. Hey in our game you started okay but then started going wrong when you moved your knight out near my king without any clear cut ability for it to engage in a mating attack or win material. Not lethal but you start to fall behind in development with moves like that. Where I really started to win was when I pawn forked your queen and bishop. Good game and we can play with different time controls if you like, or longer term correspondence.
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Nov 30, 2020 05:33
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barkbell posted:is chess dot com the best online chess site? its the one i played on 15 years ago i think That and Lichess.org
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Nov 30, 2020 15:37
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Bilirubin posted:Thanks for the feedback, and definitely good game! I had been playing correspondence so far with the others so the timed game surprised me--its ok, I had the time, but I let the timer run down while I was doing something in a different window on the phone. I am definitely keen to play with you more! Yeah don’t sweat “textbook” openings. Just worry about doing “textbook” things. Your moves in the opening phase should - develop your pieces off of their initial squares (or prepare for this, such as pawn moves - control or exert influence in the center - get your king to safety, usually by castling - develop your rooks, get them connected to each other and get them to open files/columns where they exert influence on the board and towards your opponent - preserve material or at least do no worse than even exchanges of material. The standard openings are the standard openings because they are well worn paths to achieving these goals. As long as the moves you make accomplish these goals you are fine even if you don’t know the name of the openings you are playing. The good thing about playing according to sound opening principles is that you can make moves without taking a ton of time but feel confident you are on a good path even if you don’t know exactly how you are going to mate the opponent, win material off them or at least secure a draw. If you play a sound opening and your opponent doesn’t, winning moves and combinations appear out of your position as if by magic, out of thin air, just arising from the fact that your development is superior. Your pieces control more squares and have more possible good moves on both attack and defense. Of course it still takes a gift or special insight to see some moves but a lot of winning moves are trivial and obvious when you are far ahead in development.
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Nov 30, 2020 17:13
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Xtanstic posted:As a newbie, I play 10 min on the ladder (and found it to be a good sweet spot) and I play 3 day correspondence with my friend and my brother. When I get ladder anxiety or just want to play some carefree games, I play 3 min blitz and 1 min bullet. It's like a race to see who can make the least amount of blunders! But also forces me to trust my gut more. "Use the Force, Luke! Trust your feelings!" *hangs queen* *blunders into back rank mate*
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Dec 1, 2020 03:12
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One other thing about lichess that is really good is the learning/puzzles section. https://lichess.org/training They seem to have an infinite supply of positions, drawn from actual games, to work out the best moves for the side to move. The puzzles also have a difficulty rating so you "move up" to the level your problem solving is at. I think they're really good.
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Dec 1, 2020 20:16
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Okay I made a discord for ChessGoons: https://discord.gg/yCtf7C58 There's a section to list your Lichess and chess.com handles at the top. Made a general lobby to loiter and look for games.
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Dec 1, 2020 23:29
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Lichess, and apparently chess.com also, will generate .gif's off of your played games, and it's the best!
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Dec 4, 2020 23:31
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Q_res posted:I recently started watching chess videos on YouTube and discovered I had a Chess.com log in that I apparently played 1 game on 10 years ago and that was it. Somehow they had me as a 1271 rated player, which is definitely over generous. Played a random and got drawn into a 'Vienna Game/Falkbeer variation' as black. I'm well aware I played this terribly, especially missing 13. ... Nf3+ and as you can see, I have really hard time seeing Mating opportunities. Man it's not so much SEEING the mating opportunities but you have to put yourself in the position where they are available to you. Sure the game is kind of ugly but everything from the late 30's moves on is so unnecessary. You have a massive advantage in material, and your queen is free roaming the board and you have rooks. Not only have you flushed the king out from any protection, but he's been forced to roam the board into your side of the camp, and it should be mate in a handful of moves. The main thing is you left your queen be stuck on the wrong side of the action. White's pawns were locked up and could do nothing, so there was no need at all to go pick them off with your queen, an utter waste of moves. In one or two moves your king could have participated in a mating net on your side of the board but instead it was threatening white pawns and his rook that were completely shut out from the action. You even brought your bishop from where it was well situated to the wrong side of the board to chase after the useless white rook, where it eventually wound up hung. When you have so many powerful pieces, queens and rooks, developed, and the enemy king going on a grand tour of the chessboard, you really have to look hard at every check you can put his king in rather than worrying about picking up some material when you're already way up. Checkmate is on the menu! So it should be a good learning point for you how troublesome white getting his light bishop locked into your position, supported by pawns, was. You're at constant risk of losing your rooks if they wind up on the wrong square or perhaps getting your queen pinned. There might even been a small mate threat you could have stumbled into in the corner. Once that happens you should probably make a priority to exchange one of your rooks for that bishop to eliminate the threat, but you should have been checking him and making him avoid your mate threats rather than you, with ten times the army running away from his little pawns. Once he has only the bishop, get your king onto a dark square and he can't do squat to it. Look at the late part of the game also and see that your queen could have entirely prevented his pawn queening, that was wholly unnecessary. If your queen had slid into the position and pinned his passed pawn against your king (by putting your queen on the seventh rank), and then taken it after that. So what you should look at is the point where you parked your queen up against his backwards d and e pawns. Instead of doing that, how quickly could you have slid that queen into your half of the board and start delivering checks to his king? That's where you could improve the most in this game. The stuff in the early game, of losing, and then winning back, material through hanging pieces and unseen forks, is the normal stuff that most of us who aren't great fall victim to or benefit from, but the stuff in the later game is where to learn how your whole approach to that situation should be different.
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Dec 5, 2020 01:02
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Bilirubin posted:My learning continues apace. If you are looking at your old game there is an "ANALYSIS BOARD" option in the menu. If you choose it, you can now make moves from the position and examine alternate lines, and go backwards and examine other lines. You can do this with the stockfish engine enabled and it will evaluate those lines for you. The engine evaluation will be positive or negative depending on whether it thinks White or Black is ahead. So for instance, dead even is 0, +1 is White slightly favored, -1 is Black slightly favored, +10 is White massively favored etc. If you are looking over your old game and suddenly see your evaluation go way down with a move that you didn't think was a bad one, it prompts you to examine that move more closely. The engine will often explain why it's bad and which move was better. The engine will also unfailing find forced mate, so if a move results in forced mate it will tell you, and in how many moves.
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Dec 6, 2020 18:24
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A question for higher rated or tournament experienced players like Hand Knit: What do you think about beginners or newish players playing a lot of blitz games? Do you think it's generally good because even with all the blunders and some bad habits of not calculating or carefully examining positions being cultivated, you build up a body of experience and just learn through experience about certain traps, tactics, endgame methods? (presuming you take some time to look over some of those games afterwards) Or is locking yourself into careless habits a bigger problem that outweighs the experience gained?
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Dec 9, 2020 17:49
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Sub Rosa posted:This makes me curious to ask how people define blunder? In my head to be a blunder it has to lead to having a worse position than your opponent, and you still have a better position here, even if it isn't as much better as if you had seen that. If something is a gross mistake, it's a blunder. If you carelessly hang a rook or piece even if you're still way ahead of the opponent it's still a blunder, I'd think, unless it's purposely sacrificed because you have a clear forced mate or winning back even more material. So if you missed a subtly or marginally better move I doubt most people would consider that a blunder. In the position posted earlier, doesn't white win the exchange in either variation but is considered in a better position by the engine? Not something I'd think of as a blunder. In my mind, it's usually losing a piece or greater through carelessness or falling into a forced mate (especially back rank lol) that wasn't that hard to see. Tunnel visioning into gaining small material and missing a fairly obvious forced mate or win of something big (rook or queen) would qualify too I guess. Is there a specific definition? It just means "big mistake" not "small mistake" to me.
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Dec 11, 2020 09:56
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Verisimilidude posted:What are some solid resources for new chess players? Using the learn chess with dr wolf app and playing online a lot currently. https://www.amazon.com/Logical-Chess-Every-Explained-Algebraic/dp/0713484640 https://www.amazon.com/WINNING-CHESS-Irving-Chernev/dp/1501117580 The first book takes a series of games and explains the reasoning behind every single move. It's repetitious but you get drilled in the basic ideas for moves in the openings, and the sense of progress and planning to goals in different types of games: mating attack on a castled position, simplification into a winning endgame etc. The second book is simply a large collection of board positions taken from real games that are grouped into specific tactics: pin, skewer, discovered attack, fork etc. where you look at each position and figure out the best move or sequence of moves. It's really helpful to recognize the patterns that exist for these tactics. Like, your eye is immediately drawn to the possibility of a discovered attack or pin or pawn fork etc. A long time ago I actually photocopied the pages of this book and clipped the positions and put them on index cards with the answers on the back so I didn't already know what tactic I was looking for and it was useful. You can substitute the second book largely through puzzles that are avaiable online. Lichess.org for instance has a seemingly infinite supply of puzzle positions that are taken from the games that you and I play there, that cover all this ground. I think it is continuously generating them so you'll never run out. I believe chess.com has puzzles also but not sure if they are a finite pool. I feel the ideal format for a chess book now would be an online format where as you go through and encounter positions illustrating the idea, you can either move the pieces around to explore it without having to set up a board and pieces each time, or to play it out from either side against a computer engine. Zwabu fucked around with this message at 20:01 on Dec 14, 2020 |
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Dec 14, 2020 19:58
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https://discord.gg/uFrksQtW
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Dec 21, 2020 03:37
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Bilirubin posted:I an curious how far I will fall before I start evening out. Okay, I took a look at one of your games: https://lichess.org/vxy0zG5W#8 You made a gross blunder on the fifth move. When stockfish gives you the double question mark on your move, you done blundered! Grossly! It even tells you what would have been a decent move.  White to move Take a look at the position. The bishop at g5 is under attack twice, by Black's bishop and the queen behind it, and is only defended once, by your knight. At this moment material is even. To maintain parity in material, you must either immediately exchange the bishop for Black's bishop, retreat your bishop to safety, or create some higher priority threat that must be addressed before Black can take your bishop, buying you time to retreat. You do none of those things, opting for a pawn capture that leaves your piece hanging, and your bishop is captured on the next move, and now you're down a piece a handful of moves into the game. This is not a complicated or subtle position. It's simply keeping track of basic attack and defense numbers on a piece or pawn which is one of the most basic things you MUST do in chess. In the huge majority of games, unless there's some kind of serious compensation, like a mating attack that either checkmates or forces the opponent to give back equivalent or better material to parry the threat (there wasn't in this case), losing a piece is enough to lose you the game. This is a really common problem in new player games - new players typically do not respect the importance of maintaining material parity. RESPECT MATERIAL. Don't throw it away or let it be lost for no reason at all. The reason why I'm really harping on this point is this is by far the most common error leading to a loss I see in new player games. Some of these errors are because the player just didn't see some attack on their piece, but quite a lot of them are because the player doesn't appreciate the importance of maintaining material balance to be careful about calculating if they're going to wind up down a piece. It took me quite a while starting out in chess to begin to respect the importance of maintaining material. Don't be me! There's a reason why in chess puzzles it says "White to move and win" and most of the time solving the puzzle means gaining a piece, or the exchange (rook for piece). Because that generally equals a won game! A lot of times the fact a new player winds up down a piece escapes them and they may not even remember that they lost a piece because the game snowballed and they remembered getting crushed by the opponent's mating attack or whatever that came later. But often losing that piece contributed materially to the game collapsing. Of course in chess it happens that you lose material because superior play by your opponent forced you into a bad position where you couldn't defend all the threats at once, it was be checkmated or lose the bishop, or you got caught by a nice fork or pin that lost you a piece. That's not what I'm on about. I'm talking just generally putting a high priority on maintaining material equality to not lose pieces just because you didn't care enough to keep track of it. Even if you're trying you'll occasionally mess up your calculation and hang a piece, but if you can eliminate the majority of the type of blunder shown here your win rate should go up significantly. Also, if you're playing games on lichess I don't see them. If you have games listed people can critique and teach from them. So, importantly, sometimes it's obvious why you lose, hey I forgot that he could back rank mate with his rook! But if you don't understand why you lost, review your game with a chess engine. Lichess has stockfish built into it which will analyze your game if you want it to. If nothing else it will identify gross blunders for sure, and tell you what a competent move would be in that position.
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Dec 21, 2020 08:21
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Bilirubin posted:But its Christmas! Hey man I didn't post that position to try and make you look bad, it's just very very illustrative of a simple problem that is really common and I think the single most common reason newer players get behind in a game and lose.
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Dec 21, 2020 21:26
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van fem posted:Could you post a new invite? Says this one is expired. https://discord.gg/pMMzS3Zw
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Dec 26, 2020 04:55
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Bilirubin posted:This one should be permanent until the server owner or the mods change it: https://discord.gg/zMQemR28PY I haven't changed anything and don't know much about how Discord works, really. I never make those expire, is there a setting where I can make an invite to it permanent? I'm not too worried about chessgoons getting infiltrated by the feds or whatever.
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Jan 2, 2021 20:54
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Bubbacub posted:How exactly does one beat the chess.com bishop and knight mate drill? I can do it if I turn the bot down to 1000, but otherwise it seems to always be able to pop the king off the edge and I'm not fast enough to chase it down. I remember liking the explanation/method in one of these better than the other but it's a while since I learned it and I can't remember which one. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kzsty3cMjWg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hKwrez7i7fo As Hand Knit said I think as a practical reality it's rare to come up, it's much more useful to study king and pawn or rook/pawn endings, but it is an interesting cool puzzle activity.
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Jan 5, 2021 04:45
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Bubbacub posted:How exactly does one beat the chess.com bishop and knight mate drill? I can do it if I turn the bot down to 1000, but otherwise it seems to always be able to pop the king off the edge and I'm not fast enough to chase it down. Here's yet another: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QhYR_1Jm0Ro The main thing is: -Get his king to the edge of the board -Mate will be administered in the corner that's the color of the bishop -If the king moves along the edge it's trivial The key is the few moves you have to make with the bishop and knight if he attempts to break out from the edge of the board that bring him back to the edge, those are the hardest to remember. So if you are the guy with only the king, always break out from the edge of the board and make the other guy prove to you that they know the method, or can do it in the time alloted or in 50 moves.
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Jan 5, 2021 05:09
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Wait, so that's just based on the fact that people are premoving their openings and moving so fast? (that Bh6 thing)
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Jan 15, 2021 01:20
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Hand Knit posted:From Duda-Carlsen just now. Black to play and win. It doesn't show for me.
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Jan 22, 2021 17:41
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Verisimilidude posted:
He seems the type to put an extra queen or two on the board when you're not looking. Don't let him!
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Jan 30, 2021 23:59
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Modal Auxiliary posted:Also I'm FacepalmingPanda if anybody wants to add me. Hey that was a really good, close tense game we had today on chess.com. If you look at the analysis we both made a misstep or two in the ending that are good to learn from. Edit: We each get credit for one full on blunder, too! I think ours happened on successive moves too so they canceled out. Zwabu fucked around with this message at 23:54 on Jan 31, 2021 |
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Jan 31, 2021 23:49
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qsvui posted:I might be late on this, but looks like lichess now has its own version of puzzle rush: https://lichess.org/storm whoo man I had to really work it for a while just to get to 20. A few close calls at 18 and 19. Not sure if I even click fast enough to do much better. Seems like a really good exercise in flash pattern recognition though.
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Feb 1, 2021 02:33
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Artelier posted:Still relatively weak but I'm happy I spotted this sequence after I tempted the opponent's Queen to take g2: That's a real nice combination, capitalizing on his lack of king safety and development overall, as well as your super strong bishop pair on the diagonals, and his overaggressive queen. Edit - and this is the kind of thing I'm constantly trying to explain to new players, that if your development is good, rooks on open files etc. and your opponent's are not, great moves, tactics and combinations appear as though out of thin air. Even if you're not calculating that specific combination, it's fairly likely to fall into your lap. Attacking your opponent's exposed king with your good bishops is objectively good. Winning the exchange is objectively good. Putting your rook onto an open file and simultaneously harrassing his queen which has only one flight square is objectively good. Just doing these moves because they're obviously good puts you one move away from the knight fork that wins outright, so you are so much more likely to see it. Zwabu fucked around with this message at 05:52 on Feb 1, 2021 |
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Feb 1, 2021 05:46
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I'm guessing maybe that with the next move White's queen can pin Black's rook against his queen? But you're still a couple of moves from even threatening it with the knight so I dunno.
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Feb 3, 2021 03:35
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Carbolic posted:Without plugging this into an engine... I mean the king is open but not in any huge immediate danger, I think the main significance is the tempo provided by the check allows White to shift their queen from being stuck defending the bishop to pinning and attacking Black's rook instead, which, I guess all in all makes it a pretty good move!
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Feb 3, 2021 04:32
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I'm the king of exclamation points!!!!!
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Feb 4, 2021 02:03
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Sometimes bad players hang pieces, even on move 2.
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Feb 5, 2021 16:46
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kaesarsosei posted:Hi all, https://www.amazon.com/Worlds-Great-Chess-Games/dp/4871875326 I got this book many years ago, written by GM and former U.S. champ Reuben Fine. It's structured around games but there are mini bios of the various champs. It extends from Steinitz up until Fischer because the book was written right after Fischer won the world title and just around the time he dropped out of chess entirely, and it's very good IMO. I don't know if there are more modern books of this type that cover Kasparov, Anand and Carlsen also.
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Feb 12, 2021 18:08
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Yeah it looks like there are too many mate threats and White will have to get rid of either Black's queen or rook, and the rook is the only one possible, so White will have to exchange their queen for Black's rook to avoid mate. Luckily White is massively ahead in material and will still be ahead in material after giving up 4 points of material. This is one of those situations where it's important to recognize when it's desirable, or in this case necessary, to give back material to stabilize or save a situation. So yeah, Qe8+ followed by Qxg6 is the only way forward.
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Feb 18, 2021 15:54
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