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BrokenKnucklez posted:When was the last time you had an alignment done? I wouldn't completely say its an alignment issue but I wouldn't rule it out. About a year ago, after I did the shocks / upper control arms / lower ball joints. It definitely needs one, I'm just in no hurry to spend another $80 on this thing. The front calipers seem to be retracting just fine, though I do want to get a closer look at the right front; the left front pads almost seem like they're barely worn so maybe that caliper just isn't doing anything? Rears are drums and likewise don't seem to be hanging up at all or I'd get one hell of a stink after driving 25 miles at 75mph. It's really hard to say whether the right rear is locking because that brake is grabbing too hard, or if it's locking because another issue (left front caliper not doing anything, alignment making the truck cut right when the front suspension loads up under braking) is just making that wheel go so light that it can't help but lock.
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Sep 13, 2013 21:47
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You've checked the drums for correct adjustment and checked for contamination from brake fluid or gear oil, correct?
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Sep 13, 2013 22:37
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Take a look at the left side sliders for sure, I'd pull both calipers off and clean+grease the sliders just to eliminate that as a possibility.
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Sep 14, 2013 01:46
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That gas is going to eat through those milk jugs, and probably make the gas even shittier. 
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Sep 14, 2013 05:50
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Larrymer posted:That gas is going to eat through those milk jugs, and probably make the gas even shittier. I figured this out quickly and transferred it into a red gas can I was trying to keep empty in order to get some fresh premium for the GMC The rear shoes should be clean, I did replace them not too long ago and had to replace one of the wheel cylinders at the time. No signs of gear oil leakage but I'll have a look at it before I get it aligned.
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Sep 14, 2013 06:24
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Hmm. Well, we've gone through the obvious stuff. If your drums are good and no caliper is sticking, piston or slide or hose, it boils down to a suspension issue. I'm pretty sure Rangers of that vintage have 3-channel ABS so any issue should affect both rear wheels.
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Sep 14, 2013 08:18
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If it had four wheel ABS I'm sure it'd be three channel, but mine is rear ABS only and it has the tiniest little ABS pump - I think it can only modulate the rear brakes as a whole, not each wheel. Spent some time with the GMC again today. Cranked the engine a full rotation by hand, no obstruction (not that there should be, but I'm paranoid since the PO of the engine didn't store it properly and I had to pull the heads to literally clear them of dirt). I tried to put an actual petcock on it rather than the drain plug, but while I was still hand-threading it in, the 'wings' that let you actually open/close the petcock became separated from the inner portion that actually turns. It'll go back to Checker when I get a chance. I stopped the leak for now by wrapping the threads of the drain plug in teflon tape, and adding a fresh O-ring from a HELP box marked for oil drain plug O-rings. Filled the radiator, no leaks so far. I think for the purposes of at least starting it up and letting it warm up, I'm ready to go other than playing musical gas cans to get some fresh 91 octane in it, and ganking the battery from the Ranger.
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Sep 16, 2013 08:20
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IOwnCalculus posted:Also, the Harbor Freight lever grease gun is a pile of poo poo. Glad I'm not the only one, I thought I was just screwing up how to use it or something. A couple of zerks I couldn't get it off without doing some tug-of-war, and more recently I'd get it on zerks and it is hard as poo poo to pump so that it's coming out everywhere but the front (seams, the bottom of the container). gently caress that thing 
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Sep 16, 2013 20:00
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My harbor freight grease gun has been thrown into the woods (preceded and followed immediately by a volley of unprintable words) more times than I care to think about. gently caress that thing, most useless piece of poo poo on the planet. The only reason I don't have a better one yet is that I'm still kinda broke and it usually works long enough to make me forget to get a new one when I'm at a store that sells them. Then I get home and it kicks me in the balls again.
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Sep 16, 2013 23:57
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kastein posted:My harbor freight grease gun has been thrown into the woods (preceded and followed immediately by a volley of unprintable words) more times than I care to think about. I looked on amazon, since that's where I buy everything, and saw this one that looks exactly like my HF one and is well reviewed, which made me think maybe I just don't know how to use the loving thing http://www.amazon.com/Lumax-LX-1152-Deluxe-Pistol-Grease/dp/B000MD4YKM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1379420077&sr=8-1&keywords=grease+gun
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Sep 17, 2013 13:16
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The HF one I had definitely lacked the extra fittings at the top (i.e. the air bleed valve) and the problem I was having was even getting it to pump anything at all, without even having any pressure to work against. The Lucas one I got works perfectly, by comparison.
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Sep 18, 2013 21:13
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IOwnCalculus posted:The Lucas one I got works perfectly, by comparison. Of course. There are no electronics. 
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Sep 19, 2013 02:05
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West SAAB Story posted:Of course. There are no electronics. But it still leaks.
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Sep 19, 2013 02:09
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Pfft. You don't need to worry about it rusting in place, now, do you? It's by design.
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Sep 19, 2013 02:12
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West SAAB Story posted:Of course. There are no electronics.  Lucas Oil, rather.
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Sep 19, 2013 02:54
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Motronic posted:But it still leaks. IOwnCalculus posted:
Connection?
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Sep 19, 2013 03:32
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Lucas makes a good grease gun because the whole point of a grease gun is to transfer any grease remaining inside to the outside as efficiently as possible. And yeah, there are no electronics on it.
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Sep 19, 2013 16:31
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Oh, hey, what are you doing in the driveway? This. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vJB-VR4sR98 That's not the very first startup, but it's close enough. It actually cranked and fired very quickly - the pump runs for about 5 seconds when you go key-on, and I just cycled the key on/off a few times until I heard a good solid stream of fuel coming back down the return line into the tank (the splashing at the beginning of the video). Cranked for maybe a blink longer than you see in the video and fired right up. I honestly forgot just how good this thing sounds.  The only "oh poo poo" from the very first startup was I could hear the power steering pump howling like a Ford, except this is no Ford. Turns out the coolant wasn't the only thing leaking; the gearbox has a very slow leak that managed to drain the reservoir pretty badly. I've been wanting to replace it with a slightly newer-model box anyway; the original 67-72 box is a single-ratio box that is just over four turns lock to lock. Somewhere along the line '73+ trucks got a variable-ratio box that's nearly a full turn less lock-to-lock, but bolts directly in place of mine. Right now the battery in it is the Ranger's; I forgot to call Hagerty to upgrade it from comprehensive-only to full coverage until 10 minutes after they closed. I'll call tomorrow and hopefully be able to get the insurance reinstated quickly enough to go to Firestone and get the 11th or 12th Firestone Forever battery replacement on it. Then I can go get more than five gallons into it and see how well the brakes work
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Oct 6, 2013 01:22
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Beautiful.
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Oct 6, 2013 06:17
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That is really, really nice. How's the water pump?
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Oct 6, 2013 08:05
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General_Failure posted:How's the water pump? No reason for concern with it as of yet. Seems to be moving water just fine and it's definitely not leaking.
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Oct 6, 2013 14:36
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Awesome. Your truck is one of my favorite vehicles in AI.
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Oct 6, 2013 19:16
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So apparently in the great state of Arizona, just having insurance isn't enough - if you've ever filed a deinsured certificate (similar to a non-op in California, I'm guessing?) you have to actually physically go to a MVD or third-party office to show them proof of your insurance. Which I did today, so the truck is once again legal to drive. Unfortunately, I did so too late in the day to be able to get to Firestone before they closed, so the truck had to give its battery back to the Ranger for the rest of the week. I did drive it to the gas station and then probably 3-4 miles after that. I was instantly reminded of two problems that drove me to park it in the first place. One is the steering - it pulls, the feel sucks, but at least this is as bad as I remember. The second is the brakes, and they've degraded to the point of nearly useless due to sitting. The pedal is firm - extremely firm, actually. I have to lean on it hard to make it stop. The truck does have a power booster but I've never been particularly happy with how well it's ever worked. We swapped a new one onto it back in 1999 as part of the front drum-to-disc swap but it barely makes a difference in the pedal feel between engine on and engine off. Time to look at upgraded boosters, I suppose. I might also need to play around with HPTuners and the shift points some; idling through the neighborhood it seemed to be too aggressive to grab first when slowing down for a corner. Or maybe I just need to get used to it again. One more reason I should've brought this thing out a while ago, though; by means of having my truck in the driveway yesterday, I found out that someone I knew in high school has lived literally around the corner from me for the past two years. He recognized the truck first, I think Also, reinforces how nobody in this state knows their loving neighbors.
IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 04:17 on Oct 7, 2013 |
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Oct 7, 2013 04:14
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It might just be worthwhile to look in the vac line for the brake booster to see if it has any gunk built up in it. Sometimes they have an inline valve that clogs with dust/dirt/crankcase oil and gums up after awhile/when it's cold. If it's always sucked, though... I'm super glad that this truck is running again. How bad were the old tires when you tossed them last month?
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Oct 7, 2013 05:39
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Seat Safety Switch posted:It might just be worthwhile to look in the vac line for the brake booster to see if it has any gunk built up in it. Sometimes they have an inline valve that clogs with dust/dirt/crankcase oil and gums up after awhile/when it's cold. If it's always sucked, though... I don't think it's anything in the vacuum supply side; the booster did have to live with my old 350 with massive blowby, but the vacuum line and check valve were replaced with the ones that came with the LS1, and the pedal has always been firm from day one. I actually complained about it to my old man at the time but he swore up and down that it was normal. Being 16, I'd only driven a couple other vehicles which were decades newer, so I took him at his word. Since then I've logged enough miles to know that there's no reason a boosted setup should feel this hard. The brakes on my wife's '73 Opel GT, '79 280ZX, and my '88 Volvo 240 (hey, the design is at least Nixon-era) all had boosters and all felt much more like every other modern car I've driven. The front tires were dryrotted as hell and one had a sizable bump - which was part of the reason I parked it in the first place. The rears might've been salvageable but I didn't want to screw with it since they had been sitting partly deflated with weight on them. As it is I'm taking a bit of a risk with the 'new' fronts - I ordered them from TireRack ages ago expecting to get it on the road sooner than later, so they're brand new tires with an '08 manufacture date. At least they didn't have any weight on them. I'm hoping I can manage to switch over to five-lugs and some proper alloys before they become an issue:  As it stands with the brakes, I'm debating between three options: *Assume the booster is just broken and replace it with a stock rebuild from Autozone/whatever *Upgrade to some form of larger vacuum booster (double diaphragm probably) *gently caress vacuum, go hydroboost I'm kind of tempted to do the last one there, honestly.
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Oct 7, 2013 18:30
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drat, I can't give you poo poo anymore about neglecting your ute. Hmmm. I wonder if frozenphil still posts here.
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Oct 7, 2013 22:28
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Any junkyards nearby with late-model vans that you can steal the hydroboost equipment off of for pennies on the dollar? 
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Oct 8, 2013 04:54
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Hydroboost is tempting but I don't yet feel like mucking around with all new power steering lines again. It also turns out that my '70, despite neither my dad or I having any recollection of changing them, has '71-'72 power brake booster brackets on it, which means I can easily do this swap to a C30 dual-diaphragm booster. I've got one sitting in my garage which I may get to putting on tomorrow. Also, I have a new battery. Turns out that the Firestone nearest me actually knows what a Forever battery is, and didn't try to claim "oh you've gotten enough out of it, pay up" (one store in 2000) or insist that it was a JCPenney battery and that they could only buy me out of it, not replace it (another store in 2004), both resulting in ~1 hour arguments about how the product was actually sold. I was in and out with a new battery in 10 minutes, tops, for exactly $0.00. It's either the 11th or 12th new battery at no charge since 1974. I'm half tempted to go there and pony up for a lifetime alignment once I do some more suspension / steering parts swapping.
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Oct 13, 2013 01:27
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For some reason I thought you were a young(er) whippersnapper.  Interstate generally has a hell of a battery, I just have issues with the CEO's personal politics. Glad to see the 70 coming back to life!
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Oct 13, 2013 12:16
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Ha, no I didn't buy the battery, my parents did. I think my mom got it either right before or after they got married but I most certainly wasn't even in the picture at all for a good long while afterwards.
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Oct 13, 2013 13:49
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Oh hey thread, time for a monthly update. Have done jack and squat on the GMC aside from pull it out of the garage tonight so I could change the oil on the CR-V. I've got the new booster ready to go onto it, I just haven't had free time on a weekend where I haven't been sicker than poo poo. I'm taking the whole week of Thanksgiving off, and while at least half of it will probably be burned up doing work around the yard / house, I hope to use some of it to swap the brake booster (if I can't get to it by then), and possibly pull the steering gearbox / steering column. The gearbox is going to get rebuilt with a faster ratio, the column I want to replace with a tilt column. The problem with the column is finding one at a reasonable price; the two easiest ones to fit are the relatively rare factory tilt, or a ~71-80 van tilt can work as well. People tend to ask $500 for a rebuilt factory tilt it seems, though I just wasn't aggressive enough on bidding and missed one on eBay that went for $350. The van tilt should go for about that cleaned up but I can't seem to find anyone selling one in that condition, and the van tilts on eBay right now are pretty gnarly looking for still being ~$250-$300 shipped. The van tilts technically require you to modify the intermediate shaft by shortening it, but I'm going to replace said shaft with a collapsible shaft and U-joints anyway so I can just size it for the new column. Or I could go all the way up to an ididit / Flaming River column, but those run $700-$800; annoyingly they actually cost more if I want it in black instead of chrome. There are universal made-in-China new tilt columns all over the place for around $300, but as scrutineers in New Zealand found out, they're a horrible design that often has terrible slop when new, and can actually fail in a way that causes total loss of steering.
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Nov 14, 2013 04:32
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So the entirety of my free time was sucked up doing yard work (and I've got the scratches all over my forearms to prove it - gently caress palo verde trees). Between scrapping some steel (old rotors from the MS3, Craftsman jack that doesn't jack, some old doorknobs and dead hard drives) and two overfull bed loads of yard waste, I moved drat near 800lb of garbage in that goddamn Ranger. I even got to do some mudding! By mudding of course I mean hoping I didn't get stuck in the slicker-than-poo poo mud on the way to the green waste section of the dump; with 2WD, skinny car tires, and an open rear end, if I stopped I probably wasn't going to get moving again without help. But, I did finally manage to snag a column in the right shape at the right price. Technically it's a column out of a slightly later GM van (I think the range is '71 to '80) but it looks nearly identical to the factory '67-'72 tilt on the top half. Mainly, it has no key and thus no lock mechanism to gently caress with. The only significant difference is that the neutral safety switch is located at a different position, and the shaft at the bottom of the column is a few inches longer. You can actually accommodate for that by collapsing the factory intermediate shaft, but I want to get rid of the rag joint so I will be measuring for a pair of U-joints and a collapsible double-D shaft in between. The paint is perfect where it matters - on the top half of the column that will actually be exposed in the cab. There's some very minor scuffing on the lower half but that will be in the engine bay, and either way it will still look worlds better than the column I have in it now. It also has some nice tight bearings - no play at either end. So, in order to install this, I will need to remove the old column, get the new one placed where I want it to be (I might push it further towards the dash), bolt it down, and then measure for the intermediate shaft. I will also need to grab a shift linkage kit of some sort, and a "nice to have" will definitely be an aftermarket indicator lens that has OD 3 2 1 instead of just D 2 1.
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Dec 3, 2013 06:52
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Is the tilt mechanism tight? That is (was) the biggest daily annoyance with my Blazer, drat wheel flopped all over the place.
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Dec 3, 2013 06:56
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Seems like it, I haven't threaded the tilt lever in to check but I didn't feel any play of any sort in the locked-straight position it's in right now.
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Dec 3, 2013 06:58
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A problem appears! So I got some time tonight to fuss with the truck.  So drat dusty.  A total of six 9/16" nuts, plus loosening the firewall bracket a bit and getting the pin out of the pedal-to-booster linkage, and the old booster is out.  Well there's your problem. As I was disassembling this, the pushrod in the booster popped out. If you have a Delco-style booster, that's no problem; but as it turns out I have a Bendix style booster, which is internally more or less like this:  That pushrod is supposed to be held in by the reaction disk, so that's probably a lot of why I've been getting poor braking performance. The other issue, and the one that's got me stuck, is that the one-ton booster I'm using is a Delco style with a short pushrod. My master cylinder needs a long pushrod, and the Bendix pushrod isn't compatible with the Delco booster in any manner. Jegs sells an adapter but given that I'm actually going to have some time this weekend I really wish I didn't have to wait on this to ship. Debating either finding a disc/drum master cylinder with a shallow bore, or finding one of those adapters.
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Dec 14, 2013 06:34
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How about going with hydro boost?
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Dec 14, 2013 06:37
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Can you not just grab something from a pick n pull for now? There is usually one or two '68-'72 in the yards here. Perhaps just find (and pocket) a pushrod? Do you know what trucks used that combination, if any? Could you sacrifice one or two pick n pull wrong-size pushrods to the welder gods? Since it'd be in compression it might actually be trustworthy, unlike that steering shaft the Caddy guy (sorry guy, blocking on your name) had made up for his Corvair.
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Dec 14, 2013 06:39
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Hydro boost is going to considerably increase the complexity here, and it's not like I don't make enough vacuum on this engine. It also definitely doesn't solve the "but I want it running nowwwwww" itch. Junkyards would be an option, except that very few are still pick a part style yards these days in the Phoenix area. I could try fabricating a spacer out of the old pushrod but I don't think I can properly make the dimple on it to center the booster pushrod. Ultimately, $8 shipped is hardly a lot, and as my wife so helpfully pointed out, there are other projects on it that I can do concurrently. Hell, getting the booster out of the way should make swapping the steering column easier, so I will probably work on that today.
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Dec 14, 2013 16:39
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Yeah, getting the booster out of the way definitely made pulling the column easier. Started the day off in the cab.  Five allen screws for the wheel, three small hex nuts and one large one for the adapter, and some Phillips screws for the gauge cluster. I did have to look up where exactly the release button is on the headlight switch so I could get that out.  Much grunting and yanking here. Had to remove the pinch bolt on the bottom of the steering column, the clamp bolt holding it to the firewall, and the firewall bracket itself. This was followed by much rhythmic yanking and a little lube before everything released.  Column removed, along with the brackets holding it in.  Most of today's pile-of-parts.  Side-by-side. Column I pulled out up top, van tilt below. I think I'm even benefiting a bit here from the fact that the guy I bought this off of had it in another '67-72 - there are some mods you can optionally do to the van column to make them fit better (relocating the neutral safety switch and cutting some locating hole) that it looks like he already did. So, the main reason I'm pulling the old column out? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vclzm1AKi4Y  I've been driving on this column for 13 years. This is why I don't like having shops work on this truck; even when they do the work well enough I inevitably find places they cut corners. There's no way the bearings on this column were good when the column went into my truck.Next on the list: *Get steering wheel puller loan-a-tool so I can get the Grant hub off of the old column *Remove rag joint and intermediate shaft *Install column and U-joints, measure for DD-shaft *Order DD-shaft and shift linkage *Pull the steering gear and get it rebuilt, reinstall *Replace booster *Get an alignment *Smoke tires every day I also managed to find the correct in-dash tach that matches the rest of my set on eBay, in town, for about 1/3 retail. Bought it and depending on when it gets here, it might end up in the dash before it goes back on.
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Dec 15, 2013 06:09
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Minor progress tonight: Got the intermediate shaft removed tonight. Not much to look at, the left side there is a pinch / splined joint that connects to the column, the right side is shaped to fit on the rag joint on the steering gear. One of the few safety features this truck has, it's actually a collapsible piece, so I will be replacing it with a modern equivalent. Probably made the job more difficult by means of a) not doing this first to have the steering wheel for leverage and b) not having a second set of hands handy even if I did have the wheel. This may or may not be original to the truck, but either way the U-joint on the upper end was pretty damned rough and has been open / leaking for years. I was going to try to get the new column at least placed, but then got distracted by some more wiring repairs I need to make. Another fun part of working on an old truck; thanks to the transmission swaps, engine swap, and various antitheft measures I've had in it over the years, some circuits have way too drat many butt connectors, some of which are drat scary. So I think before I get the column permanently in, I'm going to have to spend some more time tracing wires and running fresh ones with good crimps while I have more access than usual. Also, the regular rent-a-tool steering wheel puller at Autozone doesn't include the 1/4" fine-thread bolts needed to remove the Grant wheel adapter from the old column. I should probably just spend $13 and buy the Grant puller. And since it was requested in PM / I probably haven't posted this level of detail on the truck in half a decade, here's a rough overview of the truck. Grandpa bought it new in '70 to replace a rolled-over '68 GMC, so he pretty much just took what was on the lot and cheap. The latter part only just now dawned on me because based on when I was told he purchased it in the year, the '71 trucks (with factory front disc brakes) should've already been on the lot, and the options list on this one was kind of odd. Half-ton 2WD truck, short fleetside bed. Power steering, power (four wheel drum) brakes, A/C, and a 350 Chevy V8... backed by a three-on-the-tree stick. Leaf spring rear suspension (most GM trucks this generation had a trailing arm / coil spring setup) and a 3.73 open rear end. He gave it to my mom in '73 so it was spared most of the rough farm-work life. It was her daily for some unknown-to-me number of years before my dad got her into some Audis in the '80s and then a Buick when I showed up. Mostly sat in the side yard of the house at that point, only getting used when something needed to get hauled, until the '73 911 dad bought went up in flames mid-autocross. The immediate presence of fire extinguishers saved that car from being a total loss, but it did spend a long, long time taking up both parking spaces in the garage being torn down, sent off for paint, and getting put back together, so the GMC became my dad's daily for some time. Get up to about 1990 and my dad decided to put some money into it - reupholstered seat, some needed mechanical work, and a paintjob / rust repair to fix damage caused by parking it within reach of the neighbor's sprinklers.  After which, it was parked (with a car cover on) in the side yard again. Of course, the sun destroyed the car cover, then the seat, and then the paint over the next nine years.1999 rolls around and I "need" a car in that my parents don't want to drive me around any longer than they have to. Attempts by my dad to purchase the 1973 Camaro he had once owned failed, so the truck was the next choice. We spent that summer swapping the front brakes with an Early Classic disc brake kit - basically 1971-80 brakes, except with custom six-lug rotors. The spindles are set up to accept the 1970 ball joints (so no need to mess with the control arms), and also have a 2.5" drop. Rear end got 4" drop leaf springs. I couldn't drive stick to save my life, and my parents both considered the three-on-the-tree to be terrible, so we had a guy swap it for a TH400 three-speed automatic. I drove it more or less like that for the next two years, just with lots of various bits of maintenance and a few appropriate upgrades (Edelbrock Quadrajet, HEI distributor, modern-at-the-time stereo). 2002, we swapped the TH400 for a 700R4 four-speed automatic since I was going to be driving it between Tucson and Phoenix regularly. At this point we also discovered that the original heads on the 350 were in rough shape; my dad had gone through them sometime between 1985 and 1990, but didn't have hardened seats installed since you could still get leaded gas. The heads were theoretically fixable, but not economically so. It cost less to buy a brand new pair of L31 Vortec heads and an Edelbrock intake manifold, than it would've to repair the original low-flow, low-compression heads. Somewhere in here I also swapped the bench for the middle-row bench out of a late GMT400 ('96 to whenever they changed bodystyle) Suburban. Cupholders and a center arm rest! Sometime in I think 2004? I'm pretty sure on that... the cheap rebuilt 700R4 I used decided to poo poo itself. The 350 also had massive amounts of blowby (mostly caused by the massive compression jump from the Vortecs) and was consuming so much oil I was amazed it wasn't smoking. I parked it for a while due to no money to fix it with, until my dad went and got a screaming deal on a 12k mile LS1 and 4L60E locally on eBay. Having moved out without anywhere to actually do this level of work on the car, I had a shop do most of the heavy lifting on the engine swap. The engine and transmission themselves are still nearly 100% stock; the tune is only there to adapt it to the truck and remove needless CELs (I don't have cats or rear O2s, for example). I put about 8k miles on it, relatively trouble-free, before a bunch of poo poo that I was ignoring due to time and money constraints caught up and made me park it in 2008, which brings me back to the start of this thread. If I ever get through all of the poo poo I still have to do... I could go nuts and throw a cam / heads? on the LS1 and make truly stupid levels of horsepower.
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Dec 29, 2013 07:13
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