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IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





More minor progress tonight.



Dusty rear end interior shot. Started installing the '98+ Ford reverse harness; traced / re-ran / rerouted new +12V constant and +12V ignition wires back to the fuseblock (not plugged in yet). Removed the mummified original speaker from under the dash, ran a new ground wire (the old one had a wire nut on it - really, dad? Amazingly never had a problem with it). Need to run an illumination wire since no previous head unit has ever had that functionality - already know where I need to pull it from at least.

Then I need to run the new speaker wires. Fun part there is that the door panels need to come off, and at least one of the screws on the driver's door panel will need to be drilled because I mangled it years ago.

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Suburban Dad
Jan 10, 2007


Well what's attached to a leash that it made itself?
The punchline is the way that you've been fuckin' yourself




Thanks for the history lesson. I always thought the truck was cool, that makes it even more cool that it's always been in the family.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Harbor Freight screw extractor actually worked for once.



Got the new headunit in, and new speakers installed / wired. I need to check some things over because I swear I hear a bit of static that wasn't there before, but I could just be losing my mind. Otherwise I really like the new setup, and the ability to change the color on the headunit is nice.



Going to try amber for now, reminds me a bit of the ancient Audiovox two-post tape deck my dad put in the truck decades ago.

So now that I've got that done, next on the list is the brake master cylinder Going to go with a '73+ C10 since it has the shallow dimple for the new booster, but doesn't have the reversed brake ports like the '71-'72 C20/C30 cylinder. Then the column goes in, shift linkage, and steering linkage / gearbox rebuild.

Unrelated, I finally narrowed down the scenario that will make my Ranger stall 100% of the time, and will not stall unless I do this. I can fire it up cold and it will idle forever. If I drive it gently it will be fine with the occasional bit of protest. If I wail on it so that it gets out of its own way (at least to somewhere north of 3500RPM or so), and then get out of the throttle without leaving it in gear, it will stall. Every loving time. If this happens while I'm still moving I can simply put it back into the appropriate gear and it will fire right back up. Once it warms up, this stops.

I thought it might be a vacuum leak but that doesn't explain why it will drive normally if I treat it nicely. I stumbled across some people saying that they only solved similar problems by having the head rebuilt. The thought is that the exhaust valve is recessed (in all of their cases it definitely was) due to valve seat wear, and when running under heavy load the hydraulic adjusters tend to pump up a bit, keeping the exhaust valves from closing completely on their eroded seats. It doesn't show up in a compression test because the lifters have to pump up a bit for it to occur. The main thing keeping me from assuming that this is 100% the case is the fact that it has not set a single code for this.

Edit the second, back to the GMC (I'm scatterbrained tonight, apparently). The driver's door one day just stopped locking with the key. I can unlock it, I can lock / unlock it with the pull on the inside, and I can easily flip the catch on the inside of the door that the key itself actuates with very little effort. However, the key feels like it's hitting something very solid when I turn it in the lock direction. Leaning towards a broken cylinder.

IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 05:06 on Jan 12, 2014

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





So, replaced the lock cylinders. They're painfully easy on a '67-'72:

Ignition cylinder: Put the key in, push a paperclip through a hole next to the key, twist the whole thing counterclockwise about 30* past "ACC" and it will pop out. Installation is the reverse of removal, except without worrying about the paperclip.

Doors: Pull a clip out that holds the cylinder to the door skin, remove the cylinder. Swap the pawl from the old cylinder to the new, put it back in the door, put the clip back on it. And since there's fuckall for side-impact protection in these doors, you have plenty of room to work! Also, I now have a driver's door that locks from the outside again; it was indeed the previous replacement lock cylinder that failed. On one hand I'm annoyed at having to buy set of all new locks to keep the truck keyed the same; on the other hand, it would probably cost me more in labor to have one cylinder repaired / a new one re-keyed to match it, than it did to just buy the whole set. Certainly would've taken more time.



Mid-replacement on one of the pawls. Having a set of good picks really helps make it even easier since the spring clip holding the pawl on has a little tab that hooks into the pawl itself.

After that, I finally decided to go ahead and bolt up the new booster. I don't want to try to break loose brake lines that are on a master cylinder that's floating in space / only supported by said brake lines, so I'll at least bolt it up to the new booster to get that part done.

New booster is a goddamn monster.



Master is just hanging off of it since I don't want to start on that until I have more time - which should be tomorrow, conveniently enough.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
Those bolt extractors must be hard enough to bite on the bolt, but soft enough to not break :v:

I wish modern cars were that easy to work on. I think it would take me several hours to redo the locks on even one of my vehicles and all of them are at least 16 years old at this point.

LloydDobler
Oct 15, 2005

You shared it with a dick.

IOwnCalculus posted:

it would probably cost me more in labor to have one cylinder repaired / a new one re-keyed to match it, than it did to just buy the whole set. Certainly would've taken more time.

Actually it's not that bad, if you feel like exploring you should take apart one of your old door cylinders to see just how easy it is to re-key an older lock. You just have to take off the crimped on cosmetic ring on the end with the keyhole, and the center slides out where you can change the tumblers. A few junkyard cylinders and you have all the tumblers you need, there's really only about 5 sizes. They sell replacement covers for when you put it all back together.

A locksmith would have everything needed in his shop and could do it while you stand there.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





The whole set of new locks only cost me $35 and that's because I went through a restoration part shop instead of AutoZone since they don't carry the matched door and ignition set. The door locks on this are shared with about 20 years of GM products.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





The photos from my Note II seem to be increasingly less like a phone and more like a potato.



New master cylinder at least hooked up. So now I have the booster from a '71 C30 and the master from a '73 C10 on my '70 C10. Those short lines were a bear since there's nearly zero flex in them whatsoever; I had to pull the bracket off of the proportioning valve temporarily to get the rear to line up. Now that the lines are on and snugged, though, I should be able to get just enough give in them to get the bracketry back on and snug it all down against the booster.

On the plus side, there will be zero question on when I hit fresh fluid when I flush these brakes out. Seriously dark old fluid in there, ugh. To be fair that's probably to be expected when you don't flush it out in the better part of 15 years.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

IOwnCalculus posted:

The photos from my Note II seem to be increasingly less like a phone and more like a potato.
You have a fingerprint on the lens.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





:downs: Welp, I guess that's part of why I've never been particularly good at this whole cameraphone thing.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Nothing photo-worthy but I've been plugging away at it as time permits. Some of the to-dos that are now done include:

*Hooked up vacuum line to booster (just got a coupler and some extra hose, rather than running a new longer hose since the one I have has some convenient bends in it)
*Rewired gauge cluster because I made a mess of it years ago. I don't know what drove me to try and tie every +12V / GND / +12V Illumination back to a strip of screw terminals, rather than just running jumper wires from gauge to gauge. It was a loving mess. It's still far from clean but it's much better than it was. Also swapped the pedestal tach turned dash tach for an actual dash tach. It fits!
*Steering column is officially in. Neutral safety switch is wired back up, though I need to check things since it seems like it will try to start in any shifter position. Could be because I'm just spinning the collar around instead of using the shift lever, though.
*Measured the steering shaft length - looks like final length will be around 24". The collapsible shaft is ordered as cut-to-fit so I'm fine with the 24" one and cutting it once I get the rest of the system in place to measure.

Still to-do before it's driving again, not necessarily in this order:

*Hook up column shift linkage, remove floor shifter.
*Replace steering gearbox.
*Cut / install steering shaft and U-joints.
*Remount gauge panel, install steering wheel / shift lever / turn signal lever.
*Bleed brakes.
*Get alignment.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003







Old steering gearbox out. Took too long since I made three trips to Autozone today. Once to get the pitman arm puller, once to get a 1-5/16" socket, and then to another location because that one was out of stock on the 1/2 to 3/4 drive adapters. Wasn't too bad to come off, though the return line fitting didn't survive. Oddly enough, the pictures on the par
t I see listed for it seem to come almost straight out of the gearbox, whereas mine is basically a piece of tube with a 90 degree bend at one end with a 3/8 inverted flare and then a bubble on the long end to slip the hose onto. I suppose I need to just browse through the stores since the one part I found online like it, is $25 for a six inch piece of tubing.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
There are two reasons I own a 1 5/16" socket, pitman arm nuts and dana 60 differential pinion yoke nuts.

I got a 3/4" drive one... for the latter reason. Man those suckers are on there tight, and they usually aren't soaked in two decades worth of power steering fluid seepage like pitman arm nuts are, either.

Looks like you lucked out and none of the steering box mounting bolts broke off in it, either. That's always the worst - I've seen it happen on entirely rust free vehicles because the idiots who designed the thing decided to use a cast aluminum mounting spacer and galvanic corrosion makes an absolute mess of everything.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





It's a 3/4" drive socket, but I have no other 3/4" drive tools. And yeah, everything being soaked in power steering fluid helps. Grimy as all hell but the only real problem I had was that the pitman arm didn't want to come all the way off of the box, so I had to lift the box up to remove it instead of just guiding it down. The nut I was able to get while sitting in front of the truck with a big 1/2" breaker bar attached to the socket.

So, yeah, the factory return line end is in the picture above. I'd reuse it, but the nut only came out with the use of vise grips - it's ancient and soft and I don't think I'll be able to properly torque it down without rounding it off. This is what all the parts shops claim it should be.



No way in hell that's going to both fit, and allow the return line to snake underneath the fender liner.

Amusingly enough it seems like the hose meant for 1973-1975 4WD F100s is the cheapest / easiest hose to order which has a 90 degree almost immediately after the fitting:



The whole hose looks like this, but I only care about the first half of it; the return line on the reservoir is just a press-on fitting and that rubber hose is probably the correct diameter.

IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 05:29 on Mar 30, 2014

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Made some good progress today. New box is in, pitman arm is on, and both lines are on. I do still need to actually get a torque wrench on the bolts holding the box to the frame; right now they're just snugged tight with a ratchet. I also think once I get everyone for-sure centered up, I'll pull the pitman nut back off and throw some loctite on it; the factory doesn't require it but for whatever reason on these remanned boxes, most of the time the arm doesn't go on quite as deep before you hit the torque spec, so you don't end up with much in the way of threads showing before you're already at 150 ft-lb. Also, for no apparent reason when I jacked the truck up / let it back down, one of the rubber bumpstops (the one that comes into play at full droop) finally disintegrated, so I need to order a pair of those.

The F100 line worked drat near perfectly. I need to get a pic of the box side, but from up top:



The return is the lower hose without the crimp fitting on it.

Getting the box back into place is a goddamn pain in the rear end. It's cast-iron and ships with fluid in it, so it's heavy as hell and doesn't have a flat surface facing down when you have it the right way (pitman shaft down). I had to get it up into place, finagle the pitman arm underneath it, and then remove all but one bolt to pivot it into the pitman arm.

I also finally got around to putting a pressure gauge in the lawn-sprayer-turned-pressure-bleeder setup I've had the parts laying around for, but I still need to decide how to do the actual adapter. Part of me wants to just buy a spare master cylinder cap, but my concern is that unlike a lot of modern plastic reservoirs, the cast iron reservoir of this master cylinder has a large divider that runs nearly up to the top - similar to this:



So if I go that route, I think I'd need to run a tee in the line and send fluid into both the front and the rear. Or, I can try my hand at making this:


Described in detail here. I do have some sheetmetal laying around but it's thin, I don't think it will be stiff enough for this. Yes, I could still bleed it with a mityvac or two people, but I want to give this a shot since it seems to work well.

Current to-do:
*Hook up column shift linkage, remove floor shifter.
*JESUS CHRIST DO NOT FORGET TO TORQUE THE BOLTS HOLDING THE STEERING BOX TO THE FRAME
*Cut / install steering shaft and U-joints.
*Remount gauge panel, install steering wheel / shift lever / turn signal lever.
*Bleed brakes.
*Get alignment.
*New front snubbers.

Fender Anarchist
May 20, 2009

Fender Anarchist

I don't know what adapter setup you're using so this may not work, but is there any reason you couldn't seal off one chamber at a time and just bleed the wheels that are one that circuit? (I presume it's split front/rear since it's a truck).

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Basically this one, so I've got a 1/4" ID hose coming out of it. I suppose if I could get a good seal I could probably do one then the other, but I'd prefer to do both at once.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mdcn1USVQ-w

IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 17:10 on Apr 7, 2014

LloydDobler
Oct 15, 2005

You shared it with a dick.

Are you totally hell bent against buying one?

http://motiveproducts.3dcartstores.com/1105-Rectangular-Universal-Adapter_p_130.html

they did it by using thick plastic, then drilling one hole from the end of the plate and two smaller holes to intersect it. You could copy that.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





By the time I start adding up the parts to build my own... yeah, that one won't cost much more and definitely is a lot less headache. The pressure portion of it was a no-brainer, it's basically buy a $10 sprayer, buy an $8 gauge, thread the gauge into the sprayer bottle and don't use the wand.

Left Ventricle
Feb 24, 2006

Right aorta
I know this is going to make me sound like a heathen, but why are you even considering more power? Back when it was running, I recall you saying that it's scarily fast as-is, and not aerodynamically able to handle high speeds anyway. Something like "it gets real floaty at around 130" or similar?

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Left Ventricle posted:

Something like "it gets real floaty at around 130" or similar?

Because I'd like to get to that point sooner :v:

You're right, big power is going to mean even bigger chassis work. I think I'm going to go ahead and replace the tie rods, idler arm, and pitman arm once I get this thing rolling again for more than five minutes. The outer tie rods and idler arm are about 15 years and 30-50k miles old; the inner tie rods and pitman arm I think are original.

At any rate, prolonged operation over the century mark isn't going to be a thing for this truck, but I wouldn't mind getting it out of the mid-fourteen quarter and into either low thirteens or maybe high twelves. I think I could do a lot of that with more traction that would let me actually launch it.

Boaz MacPhereson
Jul 11, 2006

Day 12045 Ht10hands 180lbs
No Name
No lumps No Bumps Full life Clean
Two good eyes No Busted Limbs
Piss OK Genitals intact
Multiple scars Heals fast
O NEGATIVE HI OCTANE
UNIVERSAL DONOR
Lone Road Warrior Rundown
on the Powder Lakes V8
No guzzoline No supplies
ISOLATE PSYCHOTIC
Keep muzzled...
What kind of tires are you running? Surely you can fit something pretty substantial back there. 275s?

wallaka
Jun 8, 2010

Least it wasn't a fucking red shell

A 10" wide wheel fits easily, and a 12" is doable with the right offset and maybe a fender roll. Just a 10" wheel will allow 295/305 easily. A 12" will allow some serious tire.

blindjoe
Jan 10, 2001

IOwnCalculus posted:


I also finally got around to putting a pressure gauge in the lawn-sprayer-turned-pressure-bleeder setup I've had the parts laying around for, but I still need to decide how to do the actual adapter. Part of me wants to just buy a spare master cylinder cap, but my concern is that unlike a lot of modern plastic reservoirs, the cast iron reservoir of this master cylinder has a large divider that runs nearly up to the top - similar to this:

My experience with pressure bleeders is you will get fluid everywhere.
On my wrx, the cap blew off and fluid ended up on the second story of my house, along with everywhere in the car.
I then hated the thing (it was a speedibleed that I was given, presumably because it blew fluid all over everything) so I loaned it out to someone who used it on a Pontiac Ventura, with the kind of master you have. It blew off and sprayed fluid everywhere on his newly repainted engine and firewall.
He tried to give it back, but I convinced him to help someone else with bleeding problems.

So make sure you cover anything you don't want to get brake fluid on with blankets and tarps. Including your house, pets, and family.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Boaz MacPhereson posted:

What kind of tires are you running? Surely you can fit something pretty substantial back there. 275s?

275/60R15 BFG Radial T/A on 15" '73-'87 six-lug "rallye" wheels, I want to say they're 15x8. I've wanted to replace the wheels since just about day one, especially since these days there's nothing in that diameter for a 15" wheel between Radial T/A and a full on drag radial. I'd rather have something sticky that I can still drive around on (as well as find something equally sticky for the front!)

It's not just tires, though; I have basically no weight over the rear wheels, no limited-slip, and stiff leaf springs. Long-term (and if I ever get the kind of money freed up that I would need to make big power, I'd put it in the chassis first) I'd relocate the fuel tank to under the bed, go with either a trailing arm or four-link rear suspension, and add in a posi / truetrac / something.

wallaka posted:

A 10" wide wheel fits easily, and a 12" is doable with the right offset and maybe a fender roll. Just a 10" wheel will allow 295/305 easily. A 12" will allow some serious tire.

This is good to know. I was originally thinking 18x8 all around but I suppose I could do 20x10 in the back and 20x8 in the front instead. :getin:

blindjoe posted:

My experience with pressure bleeders is you will get fluid everywhere.
On my wrx, the cap blew off and fluid ended up on the second story of my house, along with everywhere in the car.
I then hated the thing (it was a speedibleed that I was given, presumably because it blew fluid all over everything) so I loaned it out to someone who used it on a Pontiac Ventura, with the kind of master you have. It blew off and sprayed fluid everywhere on his newly repainted engine and firewall.
He tried to give it back, but I convinced him to help someone else with bleeding problems.

So make sure you cover anything you don't want to get brake fluid on with blankets and tarps. Including your house, pets, and family.

Duly noted, paper towels and plastic everywhere! I'll pressure test it first without actually opening a bleeder / putting any fluid in the bottle.

LloydDobler
Oct 15, 2005

You shared it with a dick.

I have a motiv power bleeder that I've used and loaned out multiple times with no issue. They're really quite nice and decently built.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





For shits and grins, my Ranger last weekend (did a total of six trips like this)


Truth in advertising: This light is goddamn bright.


Close-up of where I spent most of my time today.


Closer still. This is still a test-fit / final adjustment so I haven't actually dimpled any of the shafts for the set screws, loctited anything, or installed the hex nuts to tighten them down further. Nominal length of the shaft ends up being around only 12".


Underneath the fenderwell. The only annoying thing is that this collapsible shaft still requires quite a bit of force to collapse or extend, so I'll need to yank like hell on it to get it down towards the box. The near-side line is the half of the 1973 F100 4x4 return line that I used.


The Motive piece is well made, but that rubber underside is damned stiff. I think I'll need to use a second clamp on it too - it will hold air pressure up to around 8PSI, once you get to 10 it burps a bit.

Cutting that steering shaft down took a lot of time today; 24" is the shortest that Borgeson sells it as, so at the length I need I had to cut both the tubular side (1" double-D) and the solid side (3/4" double-D), and I don't have a whole lot in the way of tools that can hack that kind of cut. Especially not cleanly. The M18 Hackzall did the bulk of the work, but it's hard to get a proper straight cut; each time I ended up a bit crooked, so I also had to spend some time squaring them up on the bench grinder.

Still to do:
*Hook up column shift linkage, remove floor shifter.
*JESUS CHRIST DO NOT FORGET TO TORQUE THE BOLTS HOLDING THE STEERING BOX TO THE FRAME Done, 60 lb-ft on each one.
*Finish test fit of steering shaft.
*Remount gauge panel, install steering wheel / shift lever / turn signal lever.
*Verify that steering is actually reasonably centered, then dimple D-shaft / steering column shaft and loctite / locknut steering U-joints.
*Bleed brakes.
*Get alignment.
*Install new front snubbers.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Been sick as hell, so kept it to lighter work on the interior. Got the gauge cluster back in.



Center blanking panel popped out on the way in, I need to eventually plan on finding some gauge to fill in that center slot. Half tempted to swap everything out for white-face gauges from Speedhut since that center hole is an odd size but they still make other gauges in that size beyond just tachs (which I already have a 5" hole for).

I temporarily fit the Grant five-bolt adapter stack, but I didn't bother torquing it all down. Turns out that the turn signal cancel cam from the non-tilt columns are deeper than the tilt columns, so you get that big gap between the column and the base of the adapter (and no horn, among other problems), and the tilt I bought was missing that part since presumably the seller kept it for whatever column he's using now. Got a line on a replacement, I just need to confirm that it should work.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





More small amounts of progress. Turns out that while nobody will advertise it as compatible, the Dorman 83232 horn contact ring is the perfect fit for the early GM van tilt column. I have the Grant adapter kit semi-permanently mounted (I'm sure I'll need to re-center it), and a new horn button on order as the one that came with that steering wheel 14 years ago has started to delaminate. Seeing as a new one is only $12, I'm not surprised.

Popped the driver's front wheel off for a bit so that I was finally able to pull the steering shaft out hard enough to hook up the gearbox. So, at the moment, the truck finally has a fully connected steering linkage.

Next up, dump in some power steering fluid, back it out of the garage, and bleed the brakes / check to see if the steering is remotely centered. Once I get it back to that point then I'll start messing with swapping it back to the column shifter.

th vwls hv scpd
Jul 12, 2006

Developing Smarter Mechanics.
Since 1989.
You are so close to being done. I really want to see some photos of this truck after it's cleaned back up and running again. I have a soft spot for old Chevy trucks.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Yeah, the tricky bit is finding time when I can actually make noise in the garage. By the time I get time I can use to work on it, my not quite two year old daughter is asleep and her room is pretty close to the garage. I expect that the LS1 firing up will also fire her up :v:

Did some minor wiring tonight since it is nice and quiet task. I have a set of relays acting as my HVAC controls and I finally added one to force one engine fan on when I have the compressor engaged.

LloydDobler
Oct 15, 2005

You shared it with a dick.

IOwnCalculus posted:

I need to eventually plan on finding some gauge to fill in that center slot.

http://www.electronics-eetimes.com/en/2.3-round-tft-lcd-emulates-gauges-dials-or-clocks.html?cmp_id=7&news_id=222901229

Something like this for maximum pimp my ride cred.

mafoose
Oct 30, 2006

volvos and dogs and volvos and dogs and volvos and dogs and volvos and dogs and vulvas and dogs and volvos and dogs and volvos and dogs and volvos and dongs and volvos and dons and volvos and dogs and volvos and cats and volvos and dogs and volvos and dogs and volvos and dogs and volvos and dogs
Can you not make an adapter plate for a more common gauge size?

I can't stand white faced gauges at night, unless only the needle and numbers glow.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Adapters for more common sizes (which is basically another 2-5/8" like I have four of across the bottom) look wonky in that center panel, especially when I have the rest using the bezel as their backing plate. If I can sort out a way to attach it, I'll likely end up just putting a blank steel plate there and mounting my turn signals, high beam, and CEL indicators in it.

Today - two steps forward, one step back. Got the power steering system refilled and bled, and I seem to have gotten the box on more or less centered. It amazingly seems to be sub 3 turns lock-to-lock, when the factory one was nearly 4. Not complaining! The early '73-87 trucks use the same part number as the '67-'72, but they reduced the number of turns lock-to-lock for '73. No obvious leaks there either, which is nice.

Fired the engine up for the first time in ages, let it warm up a bit. After I got it good and hot (and goosed it a few times, of course) it seemed to be leaking something onto the belt, which is then throwing it all over the engine bay in a line. It's not leaking heavily, since the belt doesn't even appear or feel wet. It's colorless, but then again so is the fresh power steering fluid, fresh engine oil, hell even coolant in this quantity doesn't have much color. It doesn't feel sticky like coolant does, so I don't think that's what it is.

Went to bleed the brakes. Pumped my DIY pressure bleeder + Motive master adapter up to 15PSI with fluid in it, cracked open the right rear and... nothing. Applied 20" vacuum to right rear with a Mityvac at the same time, nothing. Stomp on the brakes, get a pitiful little spit of dark brown fluid. Same story on the left rear. Right front and left front start pushing fluid as soon as I crack the bleeders open, though, and seemed to bleed just fine with pressure alone. I think the proportioning valve could be causing this, I need to do some Googling.

But, what wasn't helping me, was this:


It appears that when combined with heat and clamps, the adhesive failed and the rubber pad slipped so that it's obstructing the ports on the plate. Not good. Going to email Motive Power and see about getting a replacement.

On the plus side, I seem to have gotten the steering more or less centered. I think I will use the marks I've got to dimple the D-shaft and steering column and lock the intermediate shaft in, and I'll just re-clock the Grant wheel adapter if I need to tweak center after I get an alignment. And even with no fluid to the rears, the new booster is definitely far better than the old one - I get assist all the way down.

Note to self: Check the proportioning valve as outlined here http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?p=6178258#post6178258

No dice. Prop valve is already centered. I suppose next step is to crack the line at various points and see where I no longer have pressure.

IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 07:20 on May 11, 2014

Salami Surgeon
Jan 21, 2001

Don't close. Don't close.


Nap Ghost
Your combination valve needs to have the pin on the front of it held in or out when bleeding. It's actually called a bleeder rod.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





From what I can see that would only come into play if I was having trouble bleeding the fronts? I might give it a shot but ultimately if I'm not getting any fluid out of the combo valve either, I have one of these to swap in already:


I got it for Christmas as part of my slow parts collecting to do a 5-lug / rear disc swap, but as it turns out this valve will work for either rear disc or rear drum. Just need to pick up some pipe plugs (one for the switch I don't need, the other for the second front outlet I don't need).

Edit: I suppose I never checked the position of the switch while I was bleeding. If it's getting pushed forward when I open the rear bleeders, that could be part of it.

IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 05:54 on May 15, 2014

Boaz MacPhereson
Jul 11, 2006

Day 12045 Ht10hands 180lbs
No Name
No lumps No Bumps Full life Clean
Two good eyes No Busted Limbs
Piss OK Genitals intact
Multiple scars Heals fast
O NEGATIVE HI OCTANE
UNIVERSAL DONOR
Lone Road Warrior Rundown
on the Powder Lakes V8
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ISOLATE PSYCHOTIC
Keep muzzled...

IOwnCalculus posted:

From what I can see that would only come into play if I was having trouble bleeding the fronts? I might give it a shot but ultimately if I'm not getting any fluid out of the combo valve either, I have one of these to swap in already:


I got it for Christmas as part of my slow parts collecting to do a 5-lug / rear disc swap, but as it turns out this valve will work for either rear disc or rear drum. Just need to pick up some pipe plugs (one for the switch I don't need, the other for the second front outlet I don't need).

Edit: I suppose I never checked the position of the switch while I was bleeding. If it's getting pushed forward when I open the rear bleeders, that could be part of it.

I was actually going to pick that valve up myself for the Nova. You'll have to let us know how it goes.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





I need to pick up some pipe plugs but if (when I get a chance) I get fluid at least to the proportioning valve, I'll rip the stock-style one off and put the Wilwood one on.

No progress on the truck due to travel and other time-consuming activities. I have started cleaning the garage up around it so that I actually have more room to work, at least.

And just to prove that it needs some attention now and again... the Honda picked up two nails in a tire today, including one through the sidewall, so I got to buy two new ones. Shame because even with 31k on them the originals still had quite a bit of tread left.

Boaz MacPhereson
Jul 11, 2006

Day 12045 Ht10hands 180lbs
No Name
No lumps No Bumps Full life Clean
Two good eyes No Busted Limbs
Piss OK Genitals intact
Multiple scars Heals fast
O NEGATIVE HI OCTANE
UNIVERSAL DONOR
Lone Road Warrior Rundown
on the Powder Lakes V8
No guzzoline No supplies
ISOLATE PSYCHOTIC
Keep muzzled...
Did you ever get that Wilwood valve hooked up? I just ordered one for myself and am anxious to see how it does.

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IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





I haven't yet, I've burned up what time I have to work on the truck so far getting the rest of the garage back in order. We're at the time of the year in AZ now where the only time I actually want to work in the garage is somewhere around 10PM or later, but on work nights I'm pretty worn out (and caffeinating is just going to keep me up until 2AM).

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