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Awesome. Your truck is one of my favorite vehicles in AI.
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Oct 6, 2013 19:16
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What kind of tires are you running? Surely you can fit something pretty substantial back there. 275s?
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Apr 8, 2014 03:06
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IOwnCalculus posted:From what I can see that would only come into play if I was having trouble bleeding the fronts? I might give it a shot but ultimately if I'm not getting any fluid out of the combo valve either, I have one of these to swap in already: I was actually going to pick that valve up myself for the Nova. You'll have to let us know how it goes.
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May 15, 2014 14:50
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Did you ever get that Wilwood valve hooked up? I just ordered one for myself and am anxious to see how it does.
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Jun 26, 2014 16:56
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IOwnCalculus posted:I haven't yet, I've burned up what time I have to work on the truck so far getting the rest of the garage back in order. We're at the time of the year in AZ now where the only time I actually want to work in the garage is somewhere around 10PM or later, but on work nights I'm pretty worn out (and caffeinating is just going to keep me up until 2AM). I can only imagine the hell that is an Arizona garage in the summer. It's not much fun watching sweat drip off your nose onto whatever you're working on. At least in the lovely Chicago winters I can blast a ceramic heater at myself while I work.
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Jun 26, 2014 17:58
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I snagged a reproduction factory bracket and was very pleased to have it bolt right to the valve. I'm hoping to get mine installed on Sunday and then plumbing will be next. I think I'm going to have to get a little creative since it's mounted on the driver's side of the master and the ports on the master are on the passenger side. Baby steps.
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Jul 6, 2014 07:37
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The master is off a 2000 Camaro and it's all getting re-plumbed anyway. I'm not that concerned 
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Jul 6, 2014 15:51
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Fingers crossed man. Looking forward to the video.
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Jul 23, 2014 13:47
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IOwnCalculus posted:So, can anyone with more experienced eyes tell me for sure if those look like AN-3 fittings? I can't imagine what else they'd be, though. If you can check the degree on the taper, AN fittings are 37 degrees. Looks like AN to my amateur eye.
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Aug 2, 2014 05:57
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I feel. Your pain.
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Aug 3, 2014 06:19
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IOwnCalculus posted:Good: Got the roll of copper brake line in tonight. The main problem I keep having is that they make the loving thing out of such cheap metal, the taper on the yoke actually deforms while I tighten it down on the anvil. Once it hits a certain point (which takes about 1.5 flares), it won't complete the second flare for poo poo. Every single tool I've rented has done this. They're all garbage. Every single one.
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Aug 7, 2014 14:02
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What are you using to cut your line? I've been putting off renting another one but I really need to get my lines done.
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Aug 13, 2014 15:28
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IOwnCalculus posted:So, despite now having an aux-in and bluetooth, the factory amp only gets powered when I have the source set to tuner. Haha. Surely you can just do a little farmer engineering with the harness, yeah? A little snippy snip, twisty twist?
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May 13, 2015 15:07
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IOwnCalculus posted:The other fun bit is the official GM method for reinstalling the crank pulley is a really good way to trash your crankshaft. They have you use the old bolt first, but the problem is that it has very little thread engagement before you really need to crank on it. So I picked up a flexplate lock so I don't have to dick around with screwdrivers, and a "pulley installer" which is basically a giant piece of threaded rod, a nut, and some washers, so you can get full engagement with the crankshaft threads before you apply any real force to them. Just waiting on the new seals for the timing cover itself before I start taking things apart. Yeah, I've been reading up on rebuilding LSes and the general consensus from builders is to use an installer to put the pulley back on. Installer to start -> old bolt if wanted to seat it -> new bolt to torque it home. How much was that flexplate lock?
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Jun 15, 2015 20:47
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IOwnCalculus posted:Changed the oil in the WJ too - I really wish it was possible to get that filter off without splashing oil everywhere when it hits the track bar / drag link / tie rod arrangement. Need to rotate the tires on both but I think I'll let Discount handle the Honda since it could use a rebalancing too. WJ definitely needs the tires balanced but I need to investigate some noisy brakes first. Any way you can rig up some thin cardboard to route the oil to the pan? Every time I change the oil in the Mustang I make sure to get a chunk off a cereal box. Drips all over the steering rack and other poo poo if I don't. If the route is really stupid and cardboard won't really work, you might be able to rig something up with some doubled-up aluminum foil or something.
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Nov 2, 2015 20:41
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What's it taste like?
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Nov 24, 2015 02:41
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Didn't the later LS1s just come with LS6 intakes from the factory? Thought I read that somewhere. I don't know what the scrapyards are like out there on Tatooine, but LSes are few and far between up here.
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Nov 24, 2015 15:17
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Hell yeah.  You give the other dude a wave?
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Nov 27, 2016 06:00
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IOwnCalculus posted:... "hot rod poo poo never goes perfectly"... Ain't that the drat truth. Your belt looks a bit manky in the small bit I can see in the second picture unless I'm just not sure what I'm looking at (not out of the realm of possibilities). Might wanna take a look at that when you do the fluids and filters.
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Dec 1, 2016 16:52
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Self-clearancing! That's the best kind!  Your one-year silliness sounds like my luck. "I had a 10 percent chance of this bullshit happening and I loving nailed it." If I'm seeing things right, it looks like you might be able to rig up some kind of spacer between the aluminum(?) mount and the plastic intake, yeah?
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Dec 1, 2016 17:31
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Ah, yeah. The cam's got a pretty good taper on it that's probably designed for just such bullshittery, but why put the additional stress on it if you don't have to, right? Agreed on 'adjusting' the ferrule.
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Dec 1, 2016 17:53
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Ooooh dang. 245s/275s are what I have stuffed under the Nova. Same sidewalls too, just on 17s. So what's involved in the 5 lug swap, just axle shafts and front hubs?
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Dec 3, 2016 05:45
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IOwnCalculus posted:
Ooh, those are gonna look good. How much of a drop do you have on that thing?
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Jan 3, 2017 05:04
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So long Radial T/As.
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Jan 3, 2017 15:02
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IOwnCalculus posted:There's no way it can be rubbing. I can turn it full lock in either direction and easily get my hands on every edge of the tire, without the back of them touching anything. If it's anything, it feels like it's the front tires scrubbing against each other. Probably some funky ackerman angle going on.  Looks awesome, man. Too bad you changed lug patterns. There's a whole bunch of burnout fuel in your bed.
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Jan 10, 2017 05:10
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DRUUUUUUMMSSS!!!  That sucks, man. Hopefully it is the cylinder and it's easy enough to bang out a replacement. Doesn't make it any less annoying, though.
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Jan 12, 2017 02:56
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Wait, poo poo, are the Zip-Ties this weekend? Have fun out there.
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Jan 14, 2017 06:04
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IOwnCalculus posted:Yup, and it was worth the thrash. Got four runs down the track myself. Nowhere near personal best (altitude, a passenger, a full fuel tank, and a shitload of tools all hurt a lot there) but very consistent in the 15.0-15.1 range. The only run outside of that was one where I tried too hard on launch (or took some water up to the line with me) and absolutely smoked them at the line. What are you running for a rear end now? 3.73s? I'm thinking 4.11s* would definitely help. *and a supercharger
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Jan 15, 2017 22:39
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What, forced induction automatically requires a fire suit? Lame. You're running a 4L60, right? What's your highway RPMs look like?
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Jan 16, 2017 01:16
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You'd probably be looking at another 200-250 RPMs depending on speed on the highway. I'd say go for the 4.11s.
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Jan 16, 2017 05:58
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Not to derail your thread, but you did put trucks in the title... I'm pretty drat sure you're running the same Wilwood prop valve in your C10 that I've got in my Nova. How'd you go about adjusting yours? Hard stops and then turning the valve until the rears quit locking up first? Any tricks?
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Aug 17, 2017 21:37
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Haha. Well I guess we'll have to see who gets to it first.
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Aug 18, 2017 01:55
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IOwnCalculus posted:So far it seems to be holding up with the non-hardening form-a-gasket thrown in there. gently caress yeah!  Are you just running the iron manifolds now? Edit: Holy gently caress, does that place seriously have swap headers for the Nova for $220?! 
Boaz MacPhereson fucked around with this message at 20:38 on Dec 27, 2017 |
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Dec 27, 2017 20:34
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That's loving nuts. They're $300+ cheaper than the cheapest swap headers at Summit. They're officially on The List. Edit: To paint a picture here, for an equivalent header, (full-length, stainless, 1-7/8" primaries), I would have to drop $918 on a pair of Hooker Blackhearts. Please post your thoughts on yours when they show up. Boaz MacPhereson fucked around with this message at 21:59 on Dec 27, 2017 |
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Dec 27, 2017 21:52
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Daaaaang those look pretty sharp. I'm hoping for lots of pics during the install.
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Dec 30, 2017 04:16
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IOwnCalculus posted:It looks like I might've actually made a fully sealed fuel system on the first try! Don't you have a helper monkey running around that could hold a wrench on that nut?
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Jan 13, 2018 22:33
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Is that the Green Hornay that belongs to Finnegan's friend in the second-to-last picture there?
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Jan 24, 2018 22:31
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Neat. Bummer that the event got blown/froze out.
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Jan 25, 2018 00:14
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I've had poo poo for luck with pickle forks. poo poo, I broke one last time I tried. There's a J-xxxxx tool for popping ball joints out of the spindle but like all J- tools, it's $Texas. I built a knockoff out of a bolt, a big nut, a socket, and a couple washers. If you've got hardware laying around, check that out. I remember posting about it in my thread a while back but I don't remember if there are pictures. Edit: This guy:  Yours would obviously have to be a bit longer to reach between the top and bottom of the spindle. Head of the bolt goes up against the ball joint you're wanting to push out; socket goes over the other side's ball joint or against the other castle nut. One wrench on the bolt and one on the nut; then just "loosen" it until it gets long enough to push the taper out. Worked a treat when I swapped my control arms. Boaz MacPhereson fucked around with this message at 02:37 on Feb 5, 2018 |
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Feb 5, 2018 00:58
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| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 15:25 |
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Checked the service manual and the GM tool is J-23742. It's essentially a bolt and a really long nut. It's also $180. Edit: Bam https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all11174 Boaz MacPhereson fucked around with this message at 16:59 on Feb 5, 2018 |
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Feb 5, 2018 16:56
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