|
So I have eleven pages worth of posts in the BMW thread and yesterday when I bought my second E36 I think it became past due for me to create a thread. I am tired right now so I'm not going to post much but I'll keep it updated pretty rapidly. Ok. So to catch everyone up, I have had a 92 325i that I bought about three years ago which I love. I've been trying to drive AND restore it and we all know how that works. Why bother restoring such a pedestrian car? I dunno. Probably because it won't be when I'm done. Anyway, my current project on that, which led into the buying of car number two, is a sunroof and headliner restoration which has gone slightly awry. Basically the cost of repairing the sunroof is about a grand which is where car number two came in. Anyway this is rambling and I don't have much time right now so I'm going to gloss over a lot. Car 1 - 1992 325i 190k miles 5-speed [chipped, 3.91 rear end, IE exhaust] Car 2 - 1993 318is 190k miles 5-speed [lsd, doesn't have a hole in the roof]  So I just bought the 318is (the black one) yesterday for 900 dollars. So far I've discovered it's a flood car, has no stereo, battery tray is half...missing, open to the elements. It's been in multiple collisions. It used to be white but is now black. All four tires are different. ICV is dirty or bad and will often hold your speed when you let off the gas. Cluster is somewhat intermittent. Cooling system leaks. Tranny is notchy. Suspension is extremely good with the exception of a bent passenger control arm. The sunroof works. A/C blows ice cold. The best part is that there is a massive rust problem in the battery tray area which had me concerned, but it's due to bad weatherseals and not actually because it's a flood car. Underneath it is extremely clean, in roughly the same condition as the 325i. Anyway, the car broke down while the guy on his way to meet me. Good sign. I ended up buying a new battery and limping 80 miles home with the battery light flickering. Today I grabbed a new alt and pulled the old one. Underneath I discovered the ground wire was hosed.  Well there's your problem. Anyway, new ground wire and alt fixed the problem right up and now I have a perfect charging system. Next stop, cooling system, fluids, control arm, motor mounts (I still have my old 325i ones somewhere), ICV, and I'll be in business. It's going to be hard to keep this car as a beater. I will post more later. I have another saga going on with a set of E46 zhp wheels that I think I'm going to paint black and put on the 318is..
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2012 04:47
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 26, 2024 10:31 |
|
|
I don't see beater, I see race car. C'mon, you're stripping the interior for the headliner already, right?
|
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2012 05:38
|
|
|
Oh great, another thread that will undoubtedly make me miss my E36  Looking forward to updates!
|
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2012 13:12
|
|
|
CornHolio posted:Looking forward to updates! There will be lots. My biggest issue right now is that I need to streamline the process of cropping/resizing/uploading pictures so I can get a lot more images going. I'd prefer to keep my own hosting so I can't really use the automated imgur stuff. I just got done pricing out a rad and surge tank since I'm losing about 5 ounces a day of water. $130.
|
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2012 17:01
|
|
|
New Pelican order for the 318is. I grabbed a microfilter, oil filter, blower resistor, hood shocks (no more vise grips!) and the window moldings since mine are rusty. Next week when I get paid I'm grabbing the rad/overflow and a new pass. control arm since mine is bent and the toe is off like 5*. I flushed the power steering fluid yesterday. It was disgusting, completely brown. I used the whole bottle of ATF and I'll do it again 1-2 more times. No pics but it's a simple process; jack front up, turkey baster fluid out, add fresh fluid, start car, turn wheel left/right several times, repeat.
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2012 14:22
|
|
|
revmoo posted:I discovered the ground wire was hosed.  /sorry for the derail, just know I know your pain, brother, and I will be following your inevitable blood tears and swearing to the Roundel.
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2012 14:34
|
|
|
revmoo posted:
I imagine it looked like mine did when I did the same job. I used a fluid transfer pump.    I think  is an understatement.
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2012 14:34
|
|
|
Mine was worse, I'll snap a pic of the fluid later today. I heard that you can pull the valve cover and adjust the cam gears for low end torque or high end power. Anyone ever done it?
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2012 15:03
|
|
|
How do you feel the power of the M42 compares to the M50NV? Does it feel painfully sluggish around town? I'd recommend checking the battery ground (down under the plastic trim in the trunk) as well as the alternator ground if you haven't already. I've had two E36s where the nut was either fully or partially backed off and the ground strap had started arc welding its way through the bolt.
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2012 19:30
|
|
|
Stardotstar posted:How do you feel the power of the M42 compares to the M50NV? Does it feel painfully sluggish around town? Good tip. I already did the alt ground (scroll up), but I'll check the battery ground. Can't believe I still haven't gotten a pic of the battery tray. Honestly the power is absolutely fine. I drove another 318is a while back and it was out of tune and painfully slow, but I'm happy with the power, it's actually fun to drive. It is down like 70hp on the m50 so there's clearly a difference, but for around town driving it really doesn't matter. Plus you get a lot more of that momentum conservation fun driving out of it. Anyway, got some poo poo done today. Made room in the garage so I don't have to constantly swap cars:  License plate delete is already on the way. Flushed the P/S fluid again. I've used two quarts so far and I'll do 1-2 more. The whine from the P/S pump is totally gone. Also added a quart of oil because it was low. I haven't lost any coolant somehow. I checked with a U/V flashlight and there are no leaks atm. I'll keep a close eye on this.   Damnit. Anyway, I went ahead and tested my windshield washer pump directly to a battery and it's definitely bad. Gonna have to get this fixed for sure, I'm super particular about having clean glass. Also Aquapeled the windshield. I highly recommend Aquapel. Who cares if it beads off in the rain, that's pointless, but it keeps poo poo from sticking to your glass and makes the washers more effective. You can get boxes of 12 or so for $30 from eBay. Also cleaned the carpets. A friend gave me a set of black rubber OEM mats a while back that I never used so I was pretty hyped when I remembered that I had them. Also cleaned the inside and washed out the ashtray etc. Also removed the stupid 1/2 tint strip on the windshield that was blocking my vision. The car's starting to feel a lot nicer inside. Found a missing lug. Had my buddy that works at BMW grab one for me and it turns out that it's snapped. May have to replace the hub. Priced a control arm and it's like $40 so I'm gonna pick that up next week I think. This is the perfect BMW hose clamp tool:  Bonus found this in the garage: 
revmoo fucked around with this message at 20:34 on Aug 8, 2012 |
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2012 20:32
|
|
|
revmoo posted:
Nice 533i 
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2012 20:38
|
|
|
I think this beater needs a carpc.
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2012 20:39
|
|
|
revmoo posted:
Its never obsolete... Why the hell is that thing in the garage  I am looking at getting a possible E36 beater. This one has a supposed bad head gasket, but after listening to them talk about it, I am almost thinking VANOS repair. They said its feeling sluggish. Its a 97 328i for 1200. The only drawback... its an auto. But hell, cheap E36.
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2012 21:09
|
|
|
Don't buy an auto E36.
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2012 21:24
|
|
|
But, but, but, but... its cheap! I know I need to stay away from it, but I figured it could be a cheap car to flip to. The interior is in great shape, and the body is mint.
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2012 22:11
|
|
|
Actually at that price parting or flipping would be extremely easy and profitable. What shock manufacturers use yellow shocks/struts? the ones are my car are yellow without any markings at all. If I saw a pic I could match them though. Meant to snap a picture. They look like Bilsteins but there's no blue dust guard or logos I can find.
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2012 22:23
|
|
|
Bilstein and Koni both come with yellow shock bodies... When I had H&R coilovers on my E46 the Bilstein shocks in the rear were yellow bodies without a blue dust cover.
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2012 22:25
|
|
|
BrokenKnucklez posted:The interior is in great shape, and the body is mint.
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2012 22:30
|
|
|
revmoo posted:There will be lots. My biggest issue right now is that I need to streamline the process of cropping/resizing/uploading pictures so I can get a lot more images going. I'd prefer to keep my own hosting so I can't really use the automated imgur stuff. Rightload is goon-created if I remember correctly, and automates the hell out of the resize/upload/post, at least.
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2012 22:44
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:Rightload is goon-created if I remember correctly, and automates the hell out of the resize/upload/post, at least. That is superb! It even works under Linux with Wine.
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2012 23:02
|
|
|
A good thread.
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2012 00:24
|
|
|
Thank you. Forgot to mention in the op that I've also got keyless entry, remote start, and an 18-button OBC conversion in the red car.
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2012 01:55
|
|
|
Did more work. Took more pics. I've been getting a clunk in the rear, I've looked at the subframe mounts a couple times and they all look fine. Had a look at the RTABS. They look old but that's about all I can tell I don't have that much experience analysing them and they're hard to photograph or see. RTABS:    Previous owner's custom tow hitch:  I need help identifying this suspension. I haven't been able to find any markings.     Battery tray:   Also I've been having the throttle stick on at about 3k rpms. I pulled the intake and cleaned the TB.  Seems to have helped quite a bit. Having this thing screwed out is weird but it appears to be that way on purpose to take up slack. Loving the car. I think this is my plan: Finish getting the mechanicals back in order. This means cross-country ready. $300 Maaco job with me doing the prep. Plastidip ZHP wheels New nose panel/kidneys (mine is rusted, and only the nose panel nothing else) At that point the car will look almost new. I'll throw it up on Craigslist for 6-7k and see if I get any morons to bite. If so, great, if not I'll keep it for a few years and try again.
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2012 23:56
|
|
|
Shocks look like Koni Yellows
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2012 02:12
|
|
|
They kinda do. Random pics:    M3 mounts on the 325:  Ireland Engineering exhaust:  The 325:  Again:  Driving cross-country: 
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2012 03:07
|
|
|
Clunk in the back of an E36? Check your rear shock mounts. Either peel back the lining in you trunk on both sides to take a look, or if they're really bad you can see where the rear shocks have punched into your trunk and deformed the trunk liner. Ask me how I know.
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2012 05:33
|
|
|
 Ah damnit, can't it just have a blown headgasket or something. The door pulls are wrecked, you have to yank really hard on the door handles to get the driver's side open. On top of that, the door card is ruined, and there is no surround around the door handle. I tried to stick a surround on it and it just wouldn't go. No idea why. Also note the door is white and the car is black. I used one minute Locktite expoxy to try and combine some of the disparate door card elements. After an hour without setting I gave up. The door card is so much worse than before. Note, I have experience restoring these and had great success on the 325 with those. I think I'm going to have to replace the whole door. Also, cleaned the ICV:  And restored the window trim. I actually have a brand new set of these but I think it will be a while before I get around to putting them on so I spent a couple hours fixing the trim up. My method; razor blade on the middle, top and sides, then sand, clean with thinner, and then blast with high temp flat black.:    Looks stock. I kind of regret buying new ones. Oh well.
|
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2012 02:21
|
|
|
revmoo posted:Looks stock. I kind of regret buying new ones. Oh well. Yep, my advice would be to just keep what you've go on there. My driver's side window trim was peeling and rusted to hell so I figured I'd replace it. The trim itself is easy to replace, but the old-rear end door seal would not seal properly against the new trim piece--I would have this really annoying whistle above about 40 MPH. I ended up having to buy a new door seal to go with my purely cosmetic piece.
|
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2012 05:42
|
|
|
Very impressed with your trim restoring work, my girlfriends car need the same thing. You make it look simple enough I'll have to give it a go now
|
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2012 08:37
|
|
|
Phelan posted:Very impressed with your trim restoring work, my girlfriends car need the same thing. You make it look simple enough I'll have to give it a go now It's pretty easy just make sure and look from all angles to make sure all of the previous paint is gone. I think I used 120-300 grit to sand. Just found out this car has 24 history records on Carfax and 35 on Autocheck. Almost worth the fee just for the entertainment.
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2012 02:28
|
|
|
Woohoo! More stuff done. Four speeds on the A/C again!   Hood shocks that work!!--oops didn't take a picture of that. Weatherstripping!   Also did the bottom trim piece. I have a A/C Schitzer rear window wing that came off in one piece. I'm gonna hit it w/ Krylon Fusion and then try and reattach it. Carbon filter!  Oh also I got a flat afterward and had to run home and get my jack and fix it in Walmart. I think I'm buying tires for those ZHP wheels a little sooner than I thought.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2012 01:09
|
|
|
How difficult is replacing the weatherstripping? It's in terrible shape around the front and rear window on my E39 and I wasn't sure if the windows needed to come out to do that.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2012 13:13
|
|
|
It's kind of a pain in the rear end. I had to use a heat gun removing AND installing the rear windshield trim. It was easier on the 325. You don't need to replace the glass on anything as far as I know. It just presses in though. I use a plastic pry tool to help coax it in. Haven't done the front, but windshields are cheap and they replace it for free if you get a new one. I also have the new vent window seals (bottom) but I can't figure out how to get the old ones out and the new ones in.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2012 16:05
|
|
|
Put the 325 wheels on so I could drive it again. I noticed two things. 1. The old tires were BAD. completely bald, and there was serious cupping on RF. 2. With decent tires on, the steering wheel wobbles badly. I guess the old tire had cupped smooth on each cycle of the wobble and so you couldn't feel it in the steering wheel. I already knew RF had been hit by a curb or something. The control arm is visibly bent and the wheel bearing sounds bad as well, so this comes as little surprise. I'll order a control arm and wheel bearing Friday. E: Make that two bearings since the LF has a broken-off lug. revmoo fucked around with this message at 00:07 on Aug 15, 2012 |
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2012 22:41
|
|
|
Moved the headunit in the 325 to the 318is so I can have tunes. It's off-brand crap but it has usb. RF doesn't work. Whatever. Oh and it dawned on me that without a working speedo I also don't have a working odo. Time has stopped!
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2012 00:18
|
|
|
I've been planning on getting poly RTABS, but I've been reading on Bimmerforums about how you really need to have rubber in there to have proper suspension travel without binding. Anyone here run poly RTABs? How are they? I could get the OEM ones and get them pressed, it's just one more thing I have to worry about doing.
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2012 01:10
|
|
|
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2012 04:02
|
|
|
That's a bit cold for August.
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2012 04:23
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:That's a bit cold for August. It's the same exact temperature that my E36 says it is, in Phoenix, when it's 117 degrees out.
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2012 04:25
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 26, 2024 10:31 |
|
|
revmoo posted:I've been planning on getting poly RTABS, but I've been reading on Bimmerforums about how you really need to have rubber in there to have proper suspension travel without binding. Anyone here run poly RTABs? How are they? I could get the OEM ones and get them pressed, it's just one more thing I have to worry about doing. I had poly RTABS in my E36 for over 61,000 miles. They caused the ride to be quite harsh but I got used to it. I mostly got them because they were a lot cheaper to install (I didn't need to have somebody press them in) and they last longer than the rubber. I didn't have any problems with binding at all. And I did notice a very nice handling improvement especially in tight bends. Bonus picture:  I will note that getting the old bushing out was a pain in the rear end. Luckily I had access to an air chisel and that made quick work of the old ones.
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2012 13:26
|
|