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Pulled the engine and trans and discovered that the slave cylinder is completely intact, but the AX15's intermediate plate is cracked in half. Rather than disassembling everything to replace the plate, I'm hoping that someone will have an 2WD AX handy in the junkyard. Unlikely. 
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Oct 6, 2012 07:42
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I've owned a 87 4.0 4WD with the Peugeot 5-speed for 8 or 9 years now. The clutch master cylinder has slowly leaked since day one and finally failed me on the way home a couple months ago. I very illegally and unsafely got it home in only 3rd gear and I finally have the time to go fix it today as soon as it warms up a bit. I guess I'm curious how much you paid for that AX 15 because if it turn into anything more wrong that just the MC I'm using it as an excuse to swap out this terrible French transmission for an Aisin one.
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Oct 6, 2012 14:49
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I saw one of these on the road the other day, totally jealous.
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Oct 6, 2012 15:19
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Finally picked up a clean 39psi '93 FPR/rail with lines and the correct power steering pump and bracket. Engine bits are turning blue and wiring/vacuum harnesses are becoming simpler. tonedef131 posted:I've owned a 87 4.0 4WD with the Peugeot 5-speed for 8 or 9 years now. The clutch master cylinder has slowly leaked since day one and finally failed me on the way home a couple months ago. I very illegally and unsafely got it home in only 3rd gear and I finally have the time to go fix it today as soon as it warms up a bit.   Don't even bother with the BA. I believe you'll need the bellhousing, trans itself, and crossmember along with the master/slave assembly for a BA-to-external-slave-AX swap. The '94, external-slave AX I pulled in April was $150 without core. I should've just swapped it in place of mine altogether (though mine has 177k, it has 396k), but my friend and I used it as a science experiment and pressed all the gears off in preparation for rebuilding our own. Turns out it was mechanically flawless.Good luck finding an external-slave AX15, though. I'm desperately looking for another bellhousing and bearing retainer but am coming up dry in a 150-miles radius around Asheville. You'd think that '94-'99 (AX) and '00/'01 (NVG3550, but same bellhousing) would be easier to find. I may have been presumptuous in assuming that the intermediate plate on the '90 AX is cracked. Looking at the components of the '94, it appears to be a parting line for the casting, although a very oddly-placed one. Might as well pull the tail and verify that it's a surface feature anyway. The input shaft seems to have at least 25 thou of diametrical play, so between pulling it to check runout and replacing the bearings, it's just tempting to get another.  Front drawbar on the XJ makes it easy to tote the rolling chassis. (An MJ sans driveline sits higher than a XJ lifted 3" - who knew?)  Thread lurker and proud new owner of the old engine. Get that poo poo out of my driveway! drat! 
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Oct 7, 2012 09:04
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Oh god it's like Kasteins truck but not beat to gently caress
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Oct 7, 2012 14:29
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For whats its worth OP, there is a parked Comanche on New Leicester Highway about 5 miles past the city limit parked in front of a small service station. I haven't seen it move in months, so I think its a parts truck. Couldn't tell you if its an auto or a stick, though.
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Oct 7, 2012 15:56
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I took a three-day weekend to go to Barber Motorsports Park (thus breaking the goal from the first post). Vacuum line reroute/simplification is complete, so the next step is deciding what I want to do with that fried AX15. And if anyone finds an external bellhousing and bearing retainer in the junkyard, by all means, I'll pay for the trouble...Ardemia posted:For whats its worth OP, there is a parked Comanche on New Leicester Highway about 5 miles past the city limit parked in front of a small service station. I haven't seen it move in months, so I think its a parts truck. Couldn't tell you if its an auto or a stick, though. My friend who received the spent 4.0L made some discoveries and passed along the visual evidence:     The ridge on #1 and #6 is 0.030" max, 0.005" min, diametrically-opposed (no surprise given the condition of the rod bearings, which appear to be a few thou thick, and the crank journals). #2 and #5 are lesser with #3 and #4 down to ~0.008" max. Given that and the taper he measured, he'd be looking at going over a bit more than is comfortable without checking block core shift carefully. That, combined with a split/impacted pair of threads on the bellhousing, mean that we'll be looking to source him an alternative block.
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Oct 16, 2012 01:08
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As of a couple days ago: Not seen: new OEM LUK clutch and external-slave AX15 with 133k on the clock.  That oil pan was scrap so I used it for masking - good one is in place while I'm trying to press the pump and pickup together. Melling states a nominal six thou press between the two, but I'm having no luck even with cooling/heating. Will probably run by the machine shop to have it pressed and tacked quickly rather than continuing to putz around without the right tool. I'm having a hell of a time determining what length pushrods I need - I ordered standard-length (9.641") rods, and some lifters bottom out while others leave a little lash. I've ordered an adjustable CompCams rod since I evidently don't know what the gently caress I'm doing, and am aiming for about thirty thou of preload. Guessing that they need to be roughly twenty thou shorter than stock based on the deck height and maybe ten thou cleanup of the head. And who'd have guessed that Renix-, HO-, and HO/NVH-era 4.0s would all have different dipstick tubes? Renix tube, sitting flush in the block, won't bolt securely. Gotta drive to South Carolina to grab a junkyard one. At any rate, the rolling chassis is equipped with new swaybar/endlinks/bushings, fresh shocks, and Brown Dog motor mounts while I'm dicking around with the driveline. Replaced the heater core since the rest of the cooling system is new - not so bad on a '97+, but GODAWFUL in this thing. Once I realized that removing the entire HVAC box assembly was the quickest move, I could probably repeat it in a couple hours, but I'll be damned if it doesn't take at least six if you're clueless. OneOverZero fucked around with this message at 03:50 on Nov 6, 2012 |
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Nov 6, 2012 03:47
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That's exactly the opposite of what I've heard about heater core replacement. Good for me, because I need to do the one in my 98 XJ soon... it exploded everywhere, I bypassed it, and now it's getting cold up here. Early model ones you supposedly can do by cutting a hole in the heater box in the right place, pulling it out, then gluing the piece back in after. Make sure you have an O-ring on that dipstick tube if it needs one, I forget if they do. Good call on the Brown Dog mounts, they are some of the highest quality motor mounts and motor mount brackets I've seen on the market. I've got one of their passenger side super block mounts waiting to go in my MJ because my block came to me with one bolt broken off in it and I have a tendency to drive it hard on rough terrain with little regard for damage. kastein fucked around with this message at 04:19 on Nov 6, 2012 |
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Nov 6, 2012 04:17
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Yeah, I'm really impressed with the quality of these mounts, not that I expected any less. I'd certainly rather pay for someone's craftmanship once and never have to replace a pair of $6 units made by a marketing company. I've never had to replace the OE Mopar units on an XJ or ZJ, but the suckers in this truck were beyond toast. After doing the heater core, I really don't know how it would be possible to do any more quickly by making a cutout - frankly, seems that it would be worse, as I have no idea how you'd properly secure the new core without a clear shot at the entire heater box. If you pull the four firewall studs for the evaporator box and the blower motor (along with some awkward manipulation of the screws holding the evaporator and heater boxes together), you can finagle the core out and replace it with minimal fuss. I should've pulled all six firewall studs and yanked the entire unit. The '97+ is admittedly complicated to do, but think Legos rather than ship in a bottle. That was the real problem when I did the MJ, being 6'4" on your back with your knees against your chest while trying to hold a flashlight, box wrench, and driver. The late-model dash needs to be gutted, but you have room to maneuver. Mine's leak-free after twelve years and I hope it stays that way. Dipstick tube appears to be strictly a press operation (at least, it was for the Renix tube, though I'll see if the '94 piece has a lip for a crush ring). Might as well put some Loctite 640 on it regardless!
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Nov 6, 2012 04:53
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In the process of mocking things up to see what hardware I need, and  : Intake is a '94, and I believe the bracket (though obviously toast) is as well. Water pump is a Flowkooler and appears (visually, at least) to line up with the OE piece. Is there a subtle difference somewhere in the '91-'98 range that would explain the misalignment? All I have handy for reference my are '90 and '01, so no help there. The last tricky bit on the agenda is adapting the front HO fuel lines to the Renix rear system, necessary since the HO fuel rail relocates the return and supply. The HO lines lead to a quick-connect pair near the bellhousing, but the Renix lines are solid all the way back. I'm clueless regarding lines, so either I find a way to add a junction (possibly iffy) or run new lines all the way back (urgh). Definitely replacing all connection fittings and O-rings so I don't  .I'm well behind thanks to a series of setbacks (absurd scope creep, mispackaged trans seals, and a place that sent about $100 of incorrect thread/pitch hardware but won't respond), but I'm hoping to have this thing together within a couple weeks.
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Dec 1, 2012 04:35
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In 96 they changed how the Power steering pump mounted. It went from the bracket you had to a totally different setup. I don't think the mount points moved though. It almost looks like your intake isn't sitting flush with the head. Might be something to check into.
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Dec 1, 2012 16:52
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Agreed. I hate the old style P/S / tensioning system. The 96 and later system, while still abysmal, is slightly improved. At least it's only 2 bolts to tension the belt instead of like 4-5, half of which can't be seen without removing other items. How the hell did you get that PS bracket so clean? It looks drat near factory fresh. Here's an exploded diagram of how it's supposed to go together, in case you don't remember exactly:  Clearly some of these parts (the reservoir, etc) are not applicable to the 4.0 but most of it is shown here. Are you sure the intake is off a 94? My wild rear end guess is that it's off a 96 or later, when they changed the pump mounting/tensioning system a few holes moved. I'd have to take a look at the bolt patterns to tell if this could happen but there's an easy way to tell - is there a pattern of 3 bolt holes in the manifold for mounting the pump, or two? Two bolts you have the right manifold, 3 you have a 96 and later manifold. As for fuel lines - they're all stainless steel 3/8" line, except where the hard plastic line is used. You can safely use good quality 3/8" brass compression fittings to splice lines together so that your RENIX lines fit the 91-95 HO fuel rail setup as long as you clean the poo poo out of the line before installing the fitting. This is one thing I really like about jeep, they may have been idiots when it came to everything else rusting but at least the fuel lines are stainless and will never, ever rust away. Except the quickdisconnect shells, those are regular steel and rot quickly. Nevermind, I guess.
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Dec 2, 2012 00:51
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Well, I'm certain that the intake is a '94 - it, head, block, and rods are all that remain of the donor engine. I believe I grabbed that bracket off another '94 that bravely donated its pump and external-slave AX15. At any rate, it's definitely HO-era, pre-'96. It's only clean because I tanked it - good thing, because the fatigue ruptures weren't visible through layers of grime. Probably should've grabbed a '99+ intake and bracket when I nabbed that engine. The intake is flush against the head (admittedly sans gasket for the time being), max gap being about 0.008". Aligning the PS bracket means pulling the top away by about 1/8". The APN header is causing me some grief, as its flange is thicker than the intake flange. Gonna have to mill some material off the header flange to let the retention washers sit flush. (gently caress clamp plates in all their forms, but at least this kind doesn't rely on bent bolts to provide preload.) If I can't get the bracket to align, I'll clean off the OE water pump enough to test-fit it. I don't believe the pump configuration changed for the 4.0's production run (at least, Flowkooler listed a single PN). Tomorrow I'll take a look at the fuel line situation. Thanks again, folks. 
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Dec 2, 2012 06:16
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Success. Rather than mill the header, I ended up milling the washers that seat against the intake and exhaust. Took material off for 120deg, 1.5-3mm depending on how goofy/fretted the intake casting was at that location. The only two that didn't require machining were the two that only contact the header flange. As of early December, it sat like so:  Only significantly-goofy thing is the oil pressure sender adapter - the 1990 piece is compatible with the 1994 block (both NPT), but sits about 120deg out from the ideal orientation. Hopefully it doesn't interfere with the distributor. Took a break, as other projects that actually have time constraints came into play - my KLR needed a carb rebuild (float seems to have sunk) before inspection to renew registration and sell to my dad by the end of the year, and the XJ developed the inevitable crack at the collector and RMS leak (110,000 miles, so it went 10,000 further than most). I'll probably give it to my mom shortly since her ZJ is well-seasoned. When I get home in a week or so, I'll be dropping the engine into the truck to make room in the garage for a Dart. MJ probably won't run for a few weeks while I finish up a few things and troubleshoot whatever electrical/sensor gremlins arise.
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Dec 28, 2012 21:24
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Assuming it clears the motor mount, that may actually be a better orientation for the oil pressure sender. At least it won't be right over the oil filter and in the way anymore. e: a male-to-female 90 degree elbow installed at the right angle could leave the sender pointing mostly upward alongside the distributor which would be pretty much out of the way. kastein fucked around with this message at 21:40 on Dec 28, 2012 |
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Dec 28, 2012 21:37
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Yeah, after twelve years of oil changes, I finally destroyed the sender on my XJ with a filter wrench last month. Hadn't thought of that advantage. Should clear the mount nicely, too!
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Dec 28, 2012 21:45
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That engine looks nice!
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Dec 30, 2012 00:44
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excellent choices in trucks and motorcycles
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Dec 30, 2012 01:28
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Vork!Vork!Vork! posted:excellent choices in trucks and motorcycles  4.0/AX are finally mating to the truck on Saturday. I'll be putting the truck on jackstands with the front rotors just off the concrete, hopefully gaining enough real estate to clear the front crossmember without tilting the thing too much. I'm quite quick at removing these things, but reinstalling them? Perhaps not so much.Curbside Classic has a detailed Renault-centric alternative to the XJ history I used to kick off the thread. Any historian worth his tweed knows that multiple sources add credibility, so if you wish to cement your AMC thesis citations, there's a detailed description of the French connection. My buddy with the '90 MJ sold it a couple days ago, and based on posts from another forum, it's already made it to Texas. Going to look at a '92 4.0/AX15/2WD with him shortly if we get the chance. Busted front clip, so a perfect candidate to take some '97+ bits off my hands... 
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Jan 24, 2013 04:45
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Rymanrph's 'Manche 
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Jan 24, 2013 05:14
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Engine and trans are in as of... over a week ago, I suppose. It was tricky to get everything aligned since Brown Dog motor mounts aren't flexible like a 200k-mile OEM pair (hence the driveline going in together, since access to the top two bellhousing/block bolts is minimal), but a load leveler and good support for the tailhousing took care of it in a couple hours. poo poo, aligning the trans mount and crossmember in a freezing garage took longer. I didn't want to spring for another CSF three-row last summer, but I found a new Koyorad locally for $60. Looks to be of decent quality, but the fill spout interferes with the OE airbox. I'm tempted to adapt a cone filter to the intake (similar to this Rusty's piece), but I don't know how the Renix GM MAP will react to that. Hopefully nicely. My buddy's '90 4.0L/AX15/NP231 has since been replaced with a red '92 4.0L/AX15/2WD featuring godawful brakes and moderate front-end damage (hmmm). It's otherwise quite clean and intact. I've been espousing the virtues of the HO management versus Renix, so hopefully it doesn't let him down.
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Feb 5, 2013 05:30
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24-year-old PS pressure and return lines were both seized on either end, so I mangled the everloving poo poo out of them when swapping the '94 pump in. As for replacement lines, I would've assumed they were the same, but I'm seeing different PNs for '87-'90 and '91-'96 lines on what appear to be cross-compatible line arrangements. Maybe I'll luck out and run across a '99 Durango box rather than tool about with this. Decided to stick with an A/C-compatible top rad hose - the rest of the system is gutted, but I'll mount the compressor until I find a non-A/C bracket/pulley. Seems all ~25 XJs the local yards have at any given time are equipped with A/C, but Greenville is hot... And that harness, that TERRIBLE HARNESS. It contained more oil and duct tape than proper conductive material. I don't know how or why, but I swear that every section has either shrunk or stretched while the engine bay was apart, whichever is worse. It's tight from the firewall to the header panel, long down the injection harness, and taut throughout the ignition side. The tanks on the Koyorad radiator pinch the light harness between the header panel and crossmember, so I'm planning on running a direct lead via relay like I did in my XJ. Reflashed Mopar ECU is in, so maybe it'll idle better on cold mornings.   And nothing in that bay is carried over aside from wiring, battery, and junction block shield. 
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Mar 7, 2013 02:50
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I ran into a similar issue throwing a new PS pump (out of a 91) and steering box in my 88 MJ a month or so ago. The split is ??-90, 91-95, and 96-up, AFAIK - due to power steering pump and reservoir redesigns. I know I grabbed a line that should have fit either a 90-down or a 96-up (forget which, but it didn't work) off the stockpile first when I put the 91 pump in and the formed hardline wouldn't clear the reservoir properly, so I had to use a different one I fortunately had "in stock." Try a 91-95 line, I bet it fits.
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Mar 7, 2013 02:55
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Glad I'm not the only one stymied by those hardlines. I'll just go ahead and order some quality replacements as I don't imagine junkyard lines would be worth the time and effort given the condition of these. I don't suppose you'd happen to know the thread on the two Renix alternator bolts, would you? Numbers 4 and 5 below (34201819 and S1505199, respectively). I'm guessing it's whatever GM was using at the time. What searching I've done has returned some conflicting information. I've got at least two pairs well-hidden, but I'm close to just pulling the bracketry off and taking it to Fastenal, even if it means going with a fully-threaded bolt. 
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Mar 7, 2013 04:22
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The 3420 1819 is the same bolt used to hold the rear bumpstops onto an XJ of the same vintage, my data says it should be a 45mm long one, and iirc from last time I ran a tap through those weldnuts, they are M10 coarse. I'll need to verify that, but whatever they were (definitely M8 or M10) it was a coarse thread. They are also used going through the back of the power steering pump adjuster bracket (the cast one) into the power steering pump, those ones should be well soaked in power steering fluid and quite well preserved as a result if you want to hit the junkyard for some pocket bolts. The S150 5199 - not sure. It's only used in that one spot, as far as I can tell.
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Mar 7, 2013 07:18
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Neat build. I ran across the thread on the way to the Jeep thread. I just bought a 95 poverty-spec Cherokee. Already have a tilt column on the way, and looking for a full-gauges cluster to replace the useless giant fuel gauge. Going to have to check out that GC knuckle and brakes swap, sounds interesting. Learned a lot just from the two pages.
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Mar 7, 2013 23:05
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kastein posted:The 3420 1819 is the same bolt used to hold the rear bumpstops onto an XJ of the same vintage, my data says it should be a 45mm long one, and iirc from last time I ran a tap through those weldnuts, they are M10 coarse. I'll need to verify that, but whatever they were (definitely M8 or M10) it was a coarse thread. They are also used going through the back of the power steering pump adjuster bracket (the cast one) into the power steering pump, those ones should be well soaked in power steering fluid and quite well preserved as a result if you want to hit the junkyard for some pocket bolts. Pushed forth into the outdoors on its own four tires! And miracles of miracles, there's another hour of daylight to finish up the last few arduous bits.  No immediate progress to report, but I spent a few hours sorting through the excess parts (of which I need a make a list - pay shipping and anything's up for grabs) and found probably the most important bit:  My grandfather (who himself bought Jeeps after returning from the Pacific, hence my old-man-spec XJ covered in antennae) kept this tape kicking around for years in various iterations. Rather than packing 33s into a motorhome, he and my grandmother would transfer things onto cassettes before heading out each year. Walt Wanderley's 1966 version of "Summer Samba" was his favorite song and at least two AI regulars can attest that I blasted this in the Comanche all last summer from the Appalachians to the coast and in-between.  I think that's from the day he taught me how to drive in a new '93. Letting out the clutch and idling down an access road in low range is an elementary-school dream. Planting hibiscuses, I think? And that's why a bootleg cassette is one of the most meaningful things I have. It'll degrade, but that's only right. OneOverZero fucked around with this message at 05:15 on Mar 13, 2013 |
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Mar 13, 2013 04:58
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I saw in Grassroots Motorsports that the Cherokee won the $2012 Challenge autocross! Can't remember if I'd known it'd won before.
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Mar 13, 2013 05:13
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Decided to update this if only to keep it a step ahead of the archive's gaping maw. Other projects have led me astray from the true path, so I ended up running a goofball FWD car at this month's autocross. The truck sits largely as it did before, but brakes are bled at all four corners (hanging onto stock brakes while I source KJ/WJ bits) and all wiring is hooked up. A few remaining tasks: 1) I wasn't paying attention and pressed the clutch pedal with the slave cylinder hanging loose of the bellhousing, thereby shooting the plunger across the driveway like a polycarbonate-tipped Tomahawk. I see what appears to be a bleeder screw on the slave, but I don't know how effective that will be. 2) Still haven't nailed down how I'm going to adapt the Renix fuel lines to the HO fuel rail. The HO lines, unlike the Renix, have a quick connect positioned roughly flush with the firewall. If I manage to gently caress up (or use most any "solution" I've seen elsewhere) the pump will spray fuel all over the crossover and cat. I know nothing of fuel line adaptation/splicing best practice. kastein, I'm pretty sure you gave me the good word regarding this at some point, but I can't find it! The HO lines have new clips and O-rings on the rail, so hopefully those don't let go.3) I need to hotwire the fuel pump and dispense of all the E10 crap that's been in the tank since August. I have a new Wix filter ready to plug in (though the PO evidently replaced it) and a friend willing to consume a few gallons at a time in an '88 Ranger. 4) Need to cut up the factory closed-system overflow tank bracket to accept an open reservoir (in this case, an '80s S10 piece). 5) 6) edit: and it needs a yoke & u-joints on the driveshaft. Good thing no reference is consistent on the latter. OneOverZero fucked around with this message at 02:33 on Apr 17, 2013 |
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Apr 17, 2013 02:23
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Driveshaft ujoints: Spicer 5-153x for both (or all five, if it's 4x4, I forget if yours is.) Greasable, 12 dollars on northerndrivetrain.com or alljeep.com. You'll also want a 2-70-18x ujoint strap kit from the same place. Make sure to run a 1/4-28 UNF tap through the threaded holes on the pinion yoke before reinstalling, it helps a lot to clean them out. As for fuel lines, I'm not sure if there's a bolt-on way to do it with all factory parts, but I have been running 3/8 fuel injection pressure hose and appropriate full circle hose clamps for two years now with no issues. If you're not comfortable with that, pick up some 3/8 AN hardware and set things up with that. I didn't hoseclamp directly onto the nipples on the fuel rail, I used a sharp utility knife blade to slit the side of the hard plastic tubing where it goes over the quickconnect fitting barbs at the fuel rail and then popped them off, then hoseclamped the FI hose I got right onto the barbed fittings.
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Apr 17, 2013 04:38
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Hmmm, interesting. I'm having a hard time deciding how exactly I want to go about that. The barbs themselves are good and I have new clips and O-rings, but it seems like FI hose clamps to secure the lines directly to the rail should work well so long as I have enough strain relief to keep them from kinking. If nothing else, it's probably the simplest/safest solution for break-in until I can bend/flare a proper hardline. Hoping to bring it to life electrically on Sunday. Need to clean the contacts, scrape the grounds, and triple-check wiring before I pop in the battery. Got some u-joints on the way (thanks) and if I can get the flexpipe welded into the crossover early next week, I should be ready to fire it the first weekend in May. I drove my friend's '92 this afternoon and it definitely rubbed in the fact that I am moving much too slowly. 
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Apr 25, 2013 00:47
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A 92 in that kind of condition! Lucky bastard! Those are incredibly rare these days. My offroad turd is a 91, which is one of the only reasons I haven't scrapped it yet. That and the memories attached to it.
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Apr 25, 2013 02:44
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Interesting project. Im a fan of cherokees although ive always ended up selling the ones ive had (4 so far) without doing anything to them. Im a bigger early Dakota fan than Comanche fan (although i sold my early dakota too) but i definitely acknowledge the cool factor, especially if you put the newer front end on them.  One of my best friends has a cherokee and some big-ish plans for it. I think him having his is what let me get rid of mine by allowing me to enjoy his vicariously. Oh and since nobody mentioned it since the posting about the $2010 build (Edit to admit that i missed the post a couple above this one...), that cherokee actually had THE FASTEST autocross time of the entire field in the $2012 challenge. There is a picture of that jeep torn out of a GRM calender pinned up about 6" above my monitor as i type.. Anyway, cool project! Maybe i'll have something to contribute at some point. Vigo327 fucked around with this message at 05:39 on Apr 29, 2013 |
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Apr 25, 2013 21:36
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Cool project. Here's my '87 2WD SPORTRUCK 4-cyl, AISIN 4-speed slowmonster.  Right now it's in standby mode with no tags until I get my shop built, at which point I am going the opposite direction of this thread. The body is in great shape, and that's pretty much the only thing that I'm keeping.
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Apr 28, 2013 18:56
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Ahahahfafaafffgently caress. Pretty sure the yokes at either end of my DS are tweaked, and I likely toasted at least one of the Spicer u-joints in the process. One (axle-side) rotates freely until pressed the last thirty thou or so necessary to seat the second cap clip, at which point it binds worryingly. The other binds somewhat in the DS, but won't seat that last fraction of an inch in the yoke and is unremovable at this point (until I throw it in a press tomorrow). I'm pretty sure I shifted and crushed a needle bearing in my well-thought-out and -conceived plan to fix the situation. I'm guessing that the yokes themselves are tweaked, though certainly no clue which direction(s) unless I happen to find a gage of comparable diameter to the joint caps at work. Might be easier trying to find another DS at this point. (Installing an SYE and Tom Woods DS in my XJ was so much easier...) At least I have the strap kits and a really nifty Northern Drivetrain roundel! Thanks for the recommendation; I'll definitely be going through them in the future. On the fuel line front, the quick disconnects on the '94 front line section don't appear to be quite as servicable as I'd hoped (replacement o-rings aren't quite the right size), so I think I'm going to order a new pair and use kastein's method with new quick discos adapted onto the hardlines under the cab. Have you had any issues keeping the hose isolated from the firewall/tunnel seams? That white truck appearing earlier in the thread is now truck of the month at ComancheClub! Did not expect that. It knew my buddy had it in great mechanical shape, but the new owner has done a great deal of finishing work. Impressive. angryrobots posted:Cool project. Here's my '87 2WD SPORTRUCK 4-cyl, AISIN 4-speed slowmonster.
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May 2, 2013 04:32
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Don't use a press for U-joints! Best way to bend yoke ears ever, and they're never quite the same if you straighten them out and pretend it didn't happen. Don't ask me how I learned that one, it involved a grenaded u-joint, separated balljoints and a wheel falling off in the middle of the woods. Seat the ujoint, get the clip in, then whack each yoke ear between the ujoint cap and the driveshaft tubing a few times with your BFH. I bet it frees up pretty quickly. Basically what this does is "shock" the caps back outward and seats them against the retention clips, which gets a fraction of an inch of free space back between the trunnion and the cap and also makes sure the clips are clamped in and won't come loose. If you've got a needle bearing jammed in the wrong spot on the other ujoint, rip the clips out (whatever ones you have in, anyways) and open the jaws of your vise to the point that they'll clear two yoke ears vertically, letting the other trunnions rest on each jaw, then use your BFH between the ujoint cap and the driveshaft tube to slowly drift each cap back out. Remove all needle bearings, clean everything, inspect for dents/damage to bearings, then repack (annoying) and reinstall. I like to use this method, have never had a ujoint install go sideways on me since I started doing it this way: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9PpR-DcRV08 (I think I've linked this video like 10 times on AI now, and still haven't gotten everyone... seriously, it's the easiest best way to do u-joints, ever.)
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May 2, 2013 06:38
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Of course, the easiest way to replace U-joints is to buy an entirely new driveshaft! damnit Mazda
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May 2, 2013 20:07
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OneOverZero posted:Excellent! Hopefully this and the Jeep thread hold you over for the time being. I still need to type up my list of free-to-take parts (clean door cards/panels, seats, EVERYTHING Renix, etc) - might come in handy for you and a few others. Renix? HAHA, NO! I am a believer in (real non E-carb) EFI, even if I end up going standalone. Renix is pretty drat reliable, but that is its one and only redeeming quality.
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May 3, 2013 00:37
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RENIX is MPFI, definitely not E-carb. Only the YJs and FSJs had e-carb past 86 as far as I know.
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May 3, 2013 00:40
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