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AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAnd still getting timing errors. gently caress balls gently caress gently caress gently caress
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# ? Mar 20, 2013 23:05 |
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# ? Apr 17, 2024 19:50 |
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Back to what I was gonna say before, you can't capture or take a picture of your scope, can you?
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# ? Mar 21, 2013 00:24 |
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At least you aren't Lloyd.
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# ? Mar 21, 2013 00:28 |
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I went back to my testing crank sensor so I can put pull down resistors on it. I put 47k across it and it was bouncing all over the place, then I pulled the IAC, and it only had 10 errors over 5 minutes... versus 70 errors in 3 minutes. I'll check t he continuity of the IAC and possibly rewire the pigtail (it's a fuckin' solenoid, it shouldn't matter). Lowclock posted:Back to what I was gonna say before, you can't capture or take a picture of your scope, can you? It's from the 80's.
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# ? Mar 21, 2013 00:42 |
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Phone posted:I went back to my testing crank sensor so I can put pull down resistors on it. I put 47k across it and it was bouncing all over the place, then I pulled the IAC, and it only had 10 errors over 5 minutes... versus 70 errors in 3 minutes. So it's a green CRT. You may be able to get a clear shot of it.
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# ? Mar 21, 2013 00:55 |
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The phosphor on those green screen 'scopes is pretty long persistence, you should be able to snap a decent pic with anything better than a camera phone. Are the CPS signal wires supposed to be shielded? Is it a 3 wire Hall sensor or a 2 wire VR sensor? Are the wires bundled too close to the IAC drive wires in your harness? Is the IAC a 4-wire bipolar step motor drive type, unipolar, solenoid (never seen one of these, it's usually actually a regular motor with limit switches)?
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# ? Mar 21, 2013 01:00 |
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Blue CRT. The CPS is a 3-wire Hall (Mazda does something funky, but the output is a rising edge Hall). The wires aren't near the IAC, and they are shielded. The IAC is a solenoid; 2 wire.
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# ? Mar 21, 2013 02:42 |
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Phone posted:Blue CRT. Ooh you have a blue one. Mine's a green one. Three axis with a few nice options. Has issues but worked well enough for me to do digital and analog electronic work with it still.
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# ? Mar 21, 2013 02:51 |
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Phone posted:Blue CRT. How is the IAC driven, PWM to hold it at the right position? Never seen one like that, I'm used to chrysler/dodge/jeep products with JTEC controllers, which all use a 4 wire bipolar step motor IAC. If you could post a screenshot of the CPS signal I'd absolutely love it. Hell, if the cover comes off your ECU, a screenshot of the CPS signal after AFE/signal conditioning would be even better - or best of all, the raw CPS signal on one channel and the conditioned signal on the other.
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# ? Mar 21, 2013 03:15 |
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Can you spot the extra trigger tooth!? Breaking the seal on the AEM voids the warranty. As for the IAC, it's a solenoid; I can change the frequency and stuff, but it's just on a GPIO.
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# ? Mar 21, 2013 04:52 |
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That's so weird. Is that a consistent phantom tooth?
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# ? Mar 21, 2013 05:15 |
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Nope, it's the sync tooth, the +1 in a 12+1 trigger wheel.
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# ? Mar 21, 2013 05:29 |
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Phone posted:Nope, it's the sync tooth, the +1 in a 12+1 trigger wheel. Oh, okay, so they don't just have a gap. Fair enough.
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# ? Mar 21, 2013 05:31 |
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Guy from AEM: IT HHAS TO BE NOISE!!! I'm not seeing it, to be honest. I'm going with Fatcow's suggestion and doing Abe's NB Schmitt Trigger circuit. It's an exact copy of what's in the NB ECU and was originally developed to work with the MS2/3; however, seeing how everything is poo poo and playing the guessing game with the value of the RC (lol 1 millisecond) I have nothing to use. In other news, the IAC is dumb. I'm just going to set a high idle and deal with it.
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# ? Mar 23, 2013 04:29 |
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"Progress" is being made: another nerd on miataturbo is having a similar issue. Now to wait a week and play forum tag. I got the car teched on Saturday morning; however, I doubt I'll make it to the first De since I need to figure out this issue and then bolt on a bunch of stuff.
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# ? Mar 25, 2013 18:01 |
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The race is on.. I can still win this!
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# ? Mar 26, 2013 03:08 |
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Imma beat you both to getting a car running. (It'll be a new Miata after I crush this one into a cube)
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# ? Mar 26, 2013 03:23 |
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Exhaust systems can go into the curbside recycling bin, right? Put on the exhaust since I have an appointment at the dyno on Friday; might as well get the fuel knocked out with my crazy huge exhaust. When installing my exhaust, I remembered why Miata.net is loving useless: Tips for getting the exhaust hangers on/off the chassis posts? Windex. I used some personal lubricant and that poo poo was flyin'.
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# ? Mar 28, 2013 03:42 |
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Phone posted:Put on the exhaust since I have an appointment at the dyno on Friday; might as well get the fuel knocked out with my crazy huge exhaust. When installing my exhaust, I remembered why Miata.net is loving useless: Tips for getting the exhaust hangers on/off the chassis posts? Windex. I used some personal lubricant and that poo poo was flyin'. Thank you for this, I'm about to pull mine off to hunt down a leak, and it was a pain to get back on last time.
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# ? Mar 28, 2013 03:56 |
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All I used for getting the hangers off was dish soap. Unless you use dish soap for jerkin it too.
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# ? Mar 28, 2013 04:06 |
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Apparently silicone and rubber are best friends, so some silicone spray does wonders.
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# ? Mar 28, 2013 14:34 |
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Phone posted:Can you spot the extra trigger tooth!? I see it. Wow, why is that one wave popping up right there?
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# ? Mar 28, 2013 14:40 |
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Extra trigger tooth for timing synchronization. I hope my Schmitt trigger comes in today.
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# ? Mar 28, 2013 16:11 |
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Did you see this bit in the MS ignition hardware manual? http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms1extra/MS_Extra_Ignition_Hardware_Manual.htm#vrin I dunno if it relates to your problem but your scope looks sort of like that chart.
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# ? Mar 28, 2013 16:18 |
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I had the scope on the raw output of the sensor, so if there was a tooth, there's a waveform. I'm recreating the original NB filtering for the cam and crank. I find it weird that the Hall inputs on the AEM doesn't have any filtering.
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# ? Mar 28, 2013 17:08 |
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IT loving WORKED IT loving WORKED IT loving WORKED IT loving WORKED IT loving WORKED IT loving WORKED IT loving WORKED IT loving WORKED IT loving WORKED IT loving WORKED IT loving WORKED IT loving WORKED IT loving WORKED IT loving WORKED IT loving WORKED IT loving WORKED IT loving WORKED IT loving WORKED IT loving WORKED IT loving WORKED IT loving WORKED IT loving WORKED IT loving WORKED IT loving WORKED IT loving WORKED IT loving WORKED IT loving WORKED IT loving WORKED IT loving WORKED IT loving WORKED IT loving WORKED IT loving WORKED IT loving WORKED IT loving WORKED IT loving WORKED IT loving WORKED IT loving WORKED IT loving WORKED IT loving WORKED IT loving WORKED IT loving WORKED IT loving WORKED I don't even have the Schmitt Trigger in the circuit, just the passive filtering worked on the Abe Circuit. Literally a birthday miracle. Now to fix the exhaust that is banging the ever living poo poo out of the chassis, cash some birthday checks, and get my car re-dynoed.
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# ? Mar 29, 2013 19:44 |
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Looks like I'm covered for birthday gifts.
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# ? Mar 29, 2013 20:37 |
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The active circuit isn't working, but the passive is. I'm not going to complain.
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# ? Mar 29, 2013 21:11 |
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Why didn't you use the Schmitt trigger? You've lost most of your signal conditioning right there? But I'm glad you got past this issue and can move ahead.
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# ? Mar 29, 2013 21:19 |
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I didn't bring the timing light over and the Schmitt trigger will invert the signal and mess up the base timing. I'll take the simple fix. e: didn't get the car tuned today; Enthuza built the wrong exhaust. The 94 apparently has a 4 bolt axle which is gently caress off huge and it's hitting the exhaust. Yay. Phone fucked around with this message at 22:27 on Mar 29, 2013 |
# ? Mar 29, 2013 21:28 |
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This is your midpipe on axle: Axle: Not even once. Did 3 things to prevent rubbing: banged on the exhaust some, banged on the exhaust hangers some, and let out the slip joint. Mission success?
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# ? Mar 30, 2013 01:45 |
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Phone posted:I didn't bring the timing light over and the Schmitt trigger will invert the signal and mess up the base timing. I'll take the simple fix. But an inverted signal is easy to fix. Sucks about the exhaust.
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# ? Mar 30, 2013 01:53 |
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Yeah, easy to fix as in "there are 5 more inverters just like that one in that chip you already have, run it through two of them instead of one." Horribly, you may suffer a few extra nanoseconds of delay due to this. I don't think it will matter.
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# ? Mar 31, 2013 13:40 |
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kastein posted:Yeah, easy to fix as in "there are 5 more inverters just like that one in that chip you already have, run it through two of them instead of one." Horribly, you may suffer a few extra nanoseconds of delay due to this. I don't think it will matter. At the frequencies at play, it wouldn't matter a drat. I can't remember my chips off by heart anymore but if it's such a big concern an HC class chip would do well with the differences in latency. Oh god now I'm thinking about signal levels and power consumption. I miss designing hardware e: What's wrong with just using a 74HCT14, or even a 241... But yeah a 14 fed through two gates and the signal would be clean as a whistle. I had to look it up. It was bugging me. General_Failure fucked around with this message at 13:48 on Mar 31, 2013 |
# ? Mar 31, 2013 13:45 |
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Yeah, I was being sarcastic about that. I am pretty sure moving the CPS a few thousandths of an inch on the mounting bolts would affect timing more than an extra schmitt trigger inverter.
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# ? Mar 31, 2013 13:50 |
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kastein posted:Yeah, I was being sarcastic about that. I am pretty sure moving the CPS a few thousandths of an inch on the mounting bolts would affect timing more than an extra schmitt trigger inverter. I kind of figured that. But not everybody knows about that sort of thing.
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# ? Mar 31, 2013 13:52 |
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Status update: at VIR running North Course today. gently caress race seats forever.
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# ? Apr 6, 2013 12:52 |
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So this is the signal coming right out of the sensor? What voltage is your AEM thing expecting and what exactly is wrong with it now? Because that signal looks fine to me.
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# ? Apr 6, 2013 14:22 |
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The cam and crank are Hall Effect sensors that are 12V, the AEM was picking up noise on the signal and processing it as a significant edge. Trip report: car pulls everywhere. It's going to be awesome when it warms up a bit more.
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# ? Apr 6, 2013 15:37 |
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# ? Apr 17, 2024 19:50 |
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Dear Blog, This week was crazy!!! So many things to do! Sunday: Pulled the radiator and the coolant comes out red. gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress gently caress. Start flushing out the engine using tap water to get the rust out. Took 5 or 6 times of me pulling the radiator, flushing it out, reinstalling, and refilling for the water to come out the way it went it went in. Monday: Pull the plug in the rear water neck to install the temp gauge sender. If I had to do it again, I'd probably pull the engine. It's in an impossible spot and poo poo sucks forever. I got it in, but I had no way to torque it down. I used my 13mm impact and some electrical tape = 12mm deep socket! Tuesday: Sartre said "hell is other people," he was wrong. Hell is mounting race seats. Tuesday was the easy day because I was just flexing my 10lb sledge hammer and banging in the transmission tunnel to get the seats into the car. The passenger seat fit in fairly well, but the same cannot be said for the driver's side. The driver side seat bracket did not even come into contact with the seat rail that mounts into the factory points; this was an issue. I drilled the passenger side rails, and went to Home Depot to get some 2" wide steel stock so I could get the driver's side in. Something like 6 hours of work and running around; no seats were mounted. Wednesday: I went into work super early so I could peace out super early. I also needed to run a bunch of errands over lunch that included getting my 2" wide steel stock bent into shape by a local fabricator. Got the driver side of the tunnel smashed in, drilled the mounting holes to the chassis for the new rail, and drilled the steel stock for the seat bracket. I went back to the passenger side and started working on getting the sub belts in, which took an extraordinaire amount of time for 2 holes. Reason? Because the fuel lines are directly below the passenger seat. I could use one of the G-Force 3x3 backing plates, but I used a scrap of the 2" steel stock to make the other backing plate. I retired after about 6 hours in the garage and put on the clips on the passenger side harness (G-Force 3"). Thursday: I would like to forget that this day ever existed, but I can't. Tired from the day before and the weather being cold and rainy, it was a PERFECT day for playing video games and taking naps. Excellent thing I scheduled to get my windshield replaced at work tomorrow (Friday). So I had to get the sub belts mounted for the driver's side, get the rest of the harness hardware in, and I had to mount the seats to the chassis. Hell is mounting race seats. There's no room, you're in an awkward position, and you're doing everything blind. Good loving luck. I got it done, bolted in the rest of the interior, put on the hardtop, and got it on the ground. Mission accomplished, but it cannot be overstated how much I loving hate mounting race seats. Friday: Drove into work and got my windshield changed in the afternoon. I had to fab up a bracket for my floppy air intake, so some more steel stock was in order. Luckily Target is right next to Home Depot, so I also picked up some brand new windshield wipers for my brand new windshield as well as a bin to put spares and stuff in for autox/track days. I also had to attach the rear sway bar endlink because I would have hated life if I had forgotten it. I washed the car, too... I don't remember the paint looking this bad. It got a new emblem. Yay. Saturday: Who likes waking up at 5am voluntarily? I packed the car the night before, so it was just putting in my earbuds and driving up to VIR. I hadn't gone more than 25 miles in one stint, so this was going to be the most ultimate of tests: drive 90 miles out of town to go beat the piss out of the car that has been giving you trouble. Got up to VA fine and everything seemed to be OK. First track session was kind of bad since it was a giant conga line, and I was too busy listening for noises and staring at my oil pressure and temperature gauge. Near the end of the session I started to hear some metal clunking, but I decided to press on. After the first session, I felt under the seat: Oh poo poo, it's the 1/2" wrench, 1/2" Gear Wrench (tm), and 14mm deep socket that was missing from my tools. Weird. Oh yeah, the car was also rock solid and fast as hell. 140whp/120ft-lbs doesn't sound like a lot, but it's just the right amount for 2200lbs of car. I also melted the plastic bumper, but it was asking for it or something. Sunday: More of the same, I managed to get TrackMaster to work on my phone and record 2 out of 3 sessions that I ran today. The car pulls through corners just fine, has enough power to get me into trouble, and a boatload of grip. I'm a "Blue" student (Advanced out of Beginner->Intermediate->Advanced->Solo), so people put on a decent pace; however, the only car I gave a point-by today to was a C5Z06 with a giant splitter and wing, and that was only in 2 sessions. I think the next step is to get a 10Hz GPS for TrackMaster so I can actually get some usable data out of it versus just using it as a lap timer with a large margin of error (lol 7mph Vmin what). Objects shown at a distance greater than 10 feet Hipster Miata Exhaust Melting is Magic Hey look, the exhaust did the body work for me, niceeeeeee Toilet Bowl Phone fucked around with this message at 01:09 on Apr 8, 2013 |
# ? Apr 8, 2013 01:02 |