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kirbysuperstar posted:This "tune to channel ##" thing always confuses the heck out of me because over here we use bands and frequencies (and sometimes signal types, PAL-I, PAL-G etc). It's really weird and foreign to hear "Yeah just put it on channel 44". It sounds weird and foreign to hear that people use bands and frequencies instead of channels  . Channel numbers are primarily a TV thing, though, and obviously just shorthand for particular frequency ranges. Some stations, if they have novel call letters or are highly visible in their broadcasting area, also like to emphasize that with their channel number. A local broadcaster in my area, for instance, constantly goes on about having the call letters of KOIN (pronounced "coin", of course) in its station promos. US radio broadcasting, on the other hand, has traditionally used band and frequency as ID markers for particular stations. This has been modified in recent years by stations adding monikers to their station IDs, such as "Earth 105", "Charlie 97.1", and "105.9 The Brew". I guess it helps to make the station frequency easier to memorize. Talking about frequencies... univbee posted:It's also worse than that, because it's not really on channel 95 either, it's like between 95 and 96 and the audio and video are tuned differently so to theoretically get "clean" video (or at least as clean as RF allows for) it has to be tuned slightly differently from getting "clean" audio. Sorry, bro, gonna have to disagree on this. Like Random Stranger said, any TV worth its salt should be to utilize the frequency wiggle room for a particular channel and tune a Famicom as best as an RF signal allows. The Famicom outputs to Japanese TV channels 1 and 2. Frequency-wise, these correlate very nicely with the US cable TV frequencies of channel 95 and 96. And, in my experience (that is, before I sold my Famicom), it worked just fine on channel 96. The picture wasn't deluxe, being RF and all, but it was clear and free of interference. I will say that trying to use an RF box (at least, a NES one) was futile. I suspect the NES RF box messes with the signal from the Famicom and introduces a lot of interference. So anyone who wants to try and rock an OG Famicom should avoid that and just get a Type F coax adapter bit with a male RCA plug. Plug that into the RF port on the Famicom, then attach a coax cable to it and hook it up to the TV. It can be a pain in the rear end, but I think people might make a bigger deal about it than is needed.
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Sep 2, 2014 06:31
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d0s posted:I honestly have to ask why at this point, for stuff that's over a couple hundred dollars. You know there's a bubble, you know the super pricey stuff like CIB Earthbound or whatever is being sold by lovely investor dudes to rip people off. Why not just use a flash cart or get a repro or whatever and wait until prices drop? If people keep paying these ridiculous prices people will keep charging them. I never said I was buying it now. Prices fluctuate over time, so next time Earthbound dips I'll try and pick it up. Sure Earthbound being 'cheaper' might mean it's only $200 instead of $500, but considering the poo poo I've seen people throw money away on in things other than video games, paying $200 for a really great game is far from the dumbest thing you can do, even if it's still kinda dumb. As far as I'm concerned, if people have the disposable income to throw it away on old video games, go hog wild. I don't right now, though 
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Sep 2, 2014 06:38
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Kthulhu5000 posted:KOIN What up, Oregoon?  I'm in WA, but grew up in OR and visit there often, and 97.1 is on my "When I Am In Oregon" presets because it rules.
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Sep 2, 2014 07:03
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fatpat268 posted:Honestly if anyone's after a Mr. Gimmick, just make a repro yourself. Infiniteneslives sells the board to make a Gimmick repro for $27. All you have to do is flash it and stick it in a cart shell, and the programmer will run you about $25. Even has 'full sound.' Of course, you'll need a modded NES or a modded NES to famicom adapter (they don't sell famicom boards). I -really- wish these came in Famicom form, even if it had to be the tall cart form like the MMC5 games used. I never feel confident that the convertor isn't gonna break whenever I use one.
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Sep 2, 2014 07:07
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Cubey posted:Sure Earthbound being 'cheaper' might mean it's only $200 instead of $500, but considering the poo poo I've seen people throw money away on in things other than video games, paying $200 for a really great game is far from the dumbest thing you can do $200 for (CIB) Earthbound wouldn't be a stupid price to pay at all! I'm just talking about the current absurdly expensive prices, there are plenty of games I've spent a couple hundred dollars on and don't regret. Once it goes above that though you better be sure you really want it because buyer's regret is no fun at all.
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Sep 2, 2014 07:24
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d0s posted:$200 for (CIB) Earthbound wouldn't be a stupid price to pay at all! I'm just talking about the current absurdly expensive prices, there are plenty of games I've spent a couple hundred dollars on and don't regret. Once it goes above that though you better be sure you really want it because buyer's regret is no fun at all. About a year ago, I found out that a friend of mine had just sold off all his childhood games. Including Earthbound. For something like $25.  I don't think it was CIB, but still. That's a crazy price. It still bothers me every time someone mentions Earthbound.
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Sep 2, 2014 07:34
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d0s posted:$200 for (CIB) Earthbound wouldn't be a stupid price to pay at all! I'm just talking about the current absurdly expensive prices, there are plenty of games I've spent a couple hundred dollars on and don't regret. Once it goes above that though you better be sure you really want it because buyer's regret is no fun at all. Ask me about how much I regret the ~100 I spent on a CIB Intellivision and 50 CIB games for it  I love that early era of games mostly, but goddamn that thing was a mistake. Also let's be real: unless it's something like Steel Battalion, $200 for one single game is pretty dumb even if it's an excellent game.
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Sep 2, 2014 07:39
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Cubey posted:Ask me about how much I regret the ~100 I spent on a CIB Intellivision and 50 CIB games for it The most I've spent on an old game is probably the $AU100 I paid for Shenmue 2, CIB  . The only thing close is Mega Man Legends 2 which I got for a (relatively) cheap $80 in an eBay auction for a copy that was as good as new. The PAL version's price has almost doubled since then . As a general rule-of-thumb, I don't mind paying a higher price if it's for a mint-condition copy (or close enough to one) so long as it doesn't top what I'd pay to buy it when it was new (generally about $80 or so). Even then, it's gotta be something I really want.
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Sep 2, 2014 07:51
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Cubey posted:Also let's be real: unless it's something like Steel Battalion, $200 for one single game is pretty dumb even if it's an excellent game. I agree with this statement and I buy Neo Geo stuff. 
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Sep 2, 2014 08:29
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most insane and crazy prices I paid was 60 dollars for project Justice and 55 dollars for Cannon Spike/Gun Spike I mean that's brand new game price territory.
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Sep 2, 2014 08:52
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The most I paid for a game was SMRPG and Star Control 2, both at 100 dollars each. Both were also well worth that price as they're the best games on their respective systems. I think SC2 has since come down in price, however.
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Sep 2, 2014 08:56
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I think the most I've spent on an individual retrogame was £25 on Star Ocean: The Second Story. I'm either lucky enough to find the games I want for cheap (which isn't hard, since most of the games I gravitate towards end up going for a pittance) or I buy at launch and never get rid of (Suikoden 2, all the PS1 Final Fantasies, etc).
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Sep 2, 2014 10:39
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Code Jockey posted:What up, Oregoon? I was hoping someone in this thread would geo-recognize!Regarding expensive games, I just find it hard to justify spending exorbitant amounts for a real copy of an old game. Part of it, I think, is that I've never really been a "new game"/"full price" gamer, and leading from there, I never really got into the franchises that incur the "fandom" penalty (such as Final Fantasy, Earthbound, and the like). Getting into retrogaming as I did, at the turn of the century (LOL at that phrase), was as much about re-exploring and patching in the interruptions and deprivations of the past as it was reliving happy gaming memories. So twenty some years on paying more than the original price (and more than full price for a recent game) just strikes me as a bad bargain. If I want to explore those series and games, I have a Super Everdrive. And, having recently beaten Earthbound again on it, I don't think having an original cart would have added anything more to the experience. The game's the thing, not the media it's on. And it's the little extra things (such as using my PVM, hooking up some decent speakers, and so forth) that added far more to the enjoyability of the game. That said, I've been having an urge to step up my collecting and start getting more complete Genesis "clamshell" games, rather than having a bunch of loose carts. Part of it is that my Mega Everdrive negates my need to have the loose carts as playable "give few fucks" specimens so some shelf candy would be nice.
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Sep 2, 2014 11:17
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The most I spent on a single retro game was probably Chrono Trigger sometime last year for like $60. I just re-sold it though because I need money. I justified the $60 price tag when I bought it last year because hell, that's still cheaper than what it cost in 1995. The game didn't exactly go up in value if that makes sense (this is what I told myself). The most expensive game I currently still have is Doki Doki Panic for the FDS. I will never sell it. I think I paid around $50 for it and it wasn't even in the best condition. I refuse to sell any of my FDS games because a flashcart still isn't identical yet. Luckily out of my 10 or so FDS games, zero have had any reading issues as of yet. Pretty impressive considering 3.5" floppy disks I had new from 3 years ago are unreadable.
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Sep 2, 2014 13:00
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This month's 1CC shirt: 1943 Kai! http://1cc.storenvy.com/collections/257547-all-products/products/9390154-1943-kai-the-battle-of-midway-1cc-shirt-of-the-month-16-september
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Sep 2, 2014 13:03
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Before I forget, I figured out how to get SNES games to look perfect using SNES9x EX (Robert Broglia's SNES emu) on the NVidia Shield. I was kinda happy with the way games looked but there was always something slightly "off". I couldn't pinpoint it because the aspect ratio looked perfect and stuff like text looked perfect. There was a part in the beginning of Illusion of Gaia I used as a reference point. I compared the NVidia Shield to a real SNES running at the same time to the same TV.  If you look at the green window shutter thing to the upper-right of the NPC, walk back and forth in front of it. Chances are, you will see the green shutter being "drawn". The lines in the 6 boxes look like they are getting thinner and thicker as you walk; almost like a crappy flickering look. I messed with every setting under the sun until it went away. It turns out, this is what you need to do: -In options, go to video and then aspect ratio. Aspect ratio needs to be 8:7. I have no idea why, it just does. Not 1:1 or 4:3; even though it says 4:3 is original. -Image interpolation needs to be set to none -screen can be set to 100% -Zoom needs to be set to Interger-only I had tried Interger-only a bunch of times before but it usually made the screen too small. Using the above options everything draws/looks perfect on the NVidia Shield's screen, and as a nice bonus, scanlines (though I don't personally use them) now look perfect. Previously I had stated that scanlines always looked weird with some being thicker than others, and some had commented that there is no way to fix it. I have to say that I had always complained that I think LCDs look like crap for retro games, the Shield is probably the only exception to the rule. I believe it's because it uses an IPS screen (this is the only difference I can find between the Shield screen and other LCDs) but when I read into it, supposedly IPS has a worse response time than most LCDs (TN I think) so I don't know what the hell to attribute it to. I hope this is useful for the few of you that have the Shield (or maybe some other Android device?).
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Sep 2, 2014 13:18
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Uncle at Nintendo posted:The most I spent on a single retro game was probably Chrono Trigger sometime last year for like $60. I just re-sold it though because I need money. The BLS inflation calculator says $60 in 1995 is equal to $93.80 today (more than brand new back then), and $60 in 2013 is only worth $39.25 in 1995 (which is undoubtedly less than it cost brand new back then). So your theory seems to hold up. Uncle at Nintendo posted:The most expensive game I currently still have is Doki Doki Panic for the FDS. I will never sell it. I think I paid around $50 for it and it wasn't even in the best condition. I refuse to sell any of my FDS games because a flashcart still isn't identical yet. Luckily out of my 10 or so FDS games, zero have had any reading issues as of yet. Pretty impressive considering 3.5" floppy disks I had new from 3 years ago are unreadable. Eh, it makes sense. Back in the era during which the FDS was released, people depended on floppy disks, so good manufacturers would make them to be durable. In Nintendo's case, I suspect making FDS media durable made economic sense; fewer failures meant fewer returns and service complaints, and helped to maintain at least a neutral image of FDS reliabilty during the time period in which it mattered. Flash forward to now though, when floppy disks have spiraled down into a niche format, and you have the few manufacturers willing to make floppy disks just not giving two shits. The same probably goes for new floppy drives, too; manufacturers are probably making them to the bare spec, and not concerning themselves too much with longevity or how nice they are to the media they're reading.
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Sep 2, 2014 13:30
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Most I have ever spent on an individual game was about $120 for Metal Wolf Chaos. I had held off getting it and the prices even in Japan were going up and up so I wound up just biting the bullet. Even my copy of Steel Battalion was cheaper than that.
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Sep 2, 2014 13:45
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Nintendo Kid posted:Nah, TV repair shops tend to stay in business because they're run by dudes who are more hardcore into old CRTs than even the most hardcore people here are into collecting or perfect video output. They also tend to have a few old people who still demand that their 1962 RCA monochrome console TV be kept in working order, attached to the digital tv convertor box. If a repairman cannot repair my 1975 JVC U-matic VCR they are not true repairman, sir  (this may or may not be a problem I face as an archivist)This isn't totally retro, but it's a console I didn't have at the time. I heard the PSP will be officially discontinued in Japan this year, so I picked up an original 1000 model cheap and catching up on all the games I've missed out on from 2005-2012(?). Each game has been 5 bucks or less, so now it's my "cheap games" console. (I got Me & My Katamari for $5 sealed on ebay for gods sake).
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Sep 2, 2014 14:04
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I don't think I could ever spend more for a retro game than a current-gen new AAA game costs, $60-70. The most we ever paid for a game was for Beatles Rock Band, and we split that with a roommate (who kept it, lousy %@$#). I don't think I could when I was single, and I know for a fact my wife would shank me now. I've been wanting Super Mario Bros 2 on the NES for a while now, and haven't bought it because $15 seems too much. So there's your baseline for how cheap I am.
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Sep 2, 2014 14:07
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Kthulhu5000 posted:Eh, it makes sense. Back in the era during which the FDS was released, people depended on floppy disks, so good manufacturers would make them to be durable. In Nintendo's case, I suspect making FDS media durable made economic sense; fewer failures meant fewer returns and service complaints, and helped to maintain at least a neutral image of FDS reliabilty during the time period in which it mattered. This is true but I am surprised there was a level of quality with FDS games. Meaning Nintendo didn't "cheap out" but I am surprised being cheap is an option. Like how would you save money creating them...using thinner material or something? It's interesting, and even interesting that Sega CD games seem to be suffering from bit-rot at a way faster rate than any other pressed CD in existence.
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Sep 2, 2014 14:16
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Imagined posted:I don't think I could ever spend more for a retro game than a current-gen new AAA game costs, $60-70. The most we ever paid for a game was for Beatles Rock Band, and we split that with a roommate (who kept it, lousy %@$#). I don't think I could when I was single, and I know for a fact my wife would shank me now. I've been wanting Super Mario Bros 2 on the NES for a while now, and haven't bought it because $15 seems too much. So there's your baseline for how cheap I am. We're cheapskate retrogaming buddies! I need something amazingly special to go more than about $10. It's just in the past couple of weeks I keep stumbling over deals that range from pretty good to shockingly amazing on stuff that's on my want list so I've been spending more than I want. Random Stranger fucked around with this message at 14:19 on Sep 2, 2014 |
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Sep 2, 2014 14:16
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I tend to collect cheap systems, but I have payed out pretty heavy for games in the past.
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Sep 2, 2014 14:28
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Uncle at Nintendo posted:I have to say that I had always complained that I think LCDs look like crap for retro games, the Shield is probably the only exception to the rule. I believe it's because it uses an IPS screen (this is the only difference I can find between the Shield screen and other LCDs) but when I read into it, supposedly IPS has a worse response time than most LCDs (TN I think) so I don't know what the hell to attribute it to. IPS have better color depth but more "ghosting" than a TN panel. There's two factors to take in with LCD panels - response time (general update of the lcd) and response to color changing. I had posted a pic or two of some tests ran previously in this thread but this page has very good tests for both http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/response_time.php How you use this is the top one will measure overall color response time on a display. Comparing the colors will show you how slow your panel is to updating generally. For example my MBP is an IPS display and A through D are all red boxes meaning really bad response times while E-H are faster and look fine. My center display is a TN panel and while all boxes are their correct hues there's still a center box visible meaning ~10ms delay. My third monitor is also an ips but is 16bit so wah about my colors. On the second test if you press start you will see 10 bars scrolling and a frame counter along with the 10 bars. If you use a camera with a fast shutter (1/400) you will be able to see how badly your panel ghosts. This is my LED LCD tv:  You can see that there's 12 bars on the display and two rectangles below. What this means is it takes 12-10=2 frames or 33.3ms for my panel to do a dark to light transition. Since the control frames are still visible and uniform it means that the test didn't skip a frame. Earlier while testing over latency of the panel + xrgb mini I came to about 4 frames latency. With these two taken into consideration you would need to have an extremely sharp eye for frame delay. The dark-to-light is what you visibly notice as "ghosting" and the latency is what you notice as controller input delay. Comparing to my Panny plasma the dark-to-light transition is 1 frame so the difference is extremely minimal.
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Sep 2, 2014 14:34
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The Gamecube Component Cable Crisis may be coming to an end. Someone has finally cloned the chip, and they have open sourced all of it. The only drawback is that, for now, it has to be directly soldered into the system. Perhaps someone will figure out the part number for it, or find something that's close enough to fit. Details here: http://www.gc-forever.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=2500 GitHub here: https://github.com/ikorb/gcvideo Video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IrIuFxJwK-0
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Sep 2, 2014 14:40
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The Taint Reaper posted:So I watched a bunch of people review 32X games going through the entire library. Now I've got VR Racing, Virtua Fighter, Knuckles Chaotix, Kolibri, Doom, Star Wars, Star Trek and a few other games. You have most of the good games. Metal Head is worth picking up for the interesting factor. The 32x owns though, never forget
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Sep 2, 2014 14:54
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The Taint Reaper posted:So I watched a bunch of people review 32X games going through the entire library. Now I've got VR Racing, Virtua Fighter, Knuckles Chaotix, Kolibri, Doom, Star Wars, Star Trek and a few other games. Get Tempo. Also if you like Space Harrier and/or After Burner, the 32X ports are arcade-perfect
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Sep 2, 2014 15:38
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Scrub Lover posted:Get Tempo. Also if you like Space Harrier and/or After Burner, the 32X ports are arcade-perfect Came to post this. Also, Shadow Squadron.
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Sep 2, 2014 15:56
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Imagined posted:I don't think I could ever spend more for a retro game than a current-gen new AAA game costs, $60-70. The most we ever paid for a game was for Beatles Rock Band, and we split that with a roommate (who kept it, lousy %@$#). I don't think I could when I was single, and I know for a fact my wife would shank me now. I've been wanting Super Mario Bros 2 on the NES for a while now, and haven't bought it because $15 seems too much. So there's your baseline for how cheap I am. I have two criteria for if a retro game costs too much for me, one is like you said if it's more than (or as much as) a AAA game. But the other is "does the game alone cost more than the system it's for?". If a Genesis goes for like $20-30 I'm not paying $40 for a single game no matter how bad I want it. I guess the other criteria how close the price is to an Everdrive. If I can just get (or already have) an Everdrive and the price is approaching half the cost of one then I don't get it. $10-15 is the high end of what I'll pay for Genesis games in-the-box or loose NES games. And I'd really prefer to pay no more than $5 for loose NES games.
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Sep 2, 2014 16:06
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No game, old or new, is worth more than 40€.
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Sep 2, 2014 17:02
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Katana Gomai posted:No game, old or new, is worth more than 0.40€.
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Sep 2, 2014 17:04
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I'm still deciding between a Twin and AV Famicom. univbee you mentioned that the Twin is easier to maintain and repair. Could you explain a bit more? AV seems like the practical choice as it is cheaper and I doubt I'll ever have a game that uses the disk drive on the Twin but drat do those Sharp Famicoms look sweet.
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Sep 2, 2014 17:15
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All I have is a Wii U that I hacked. I know that Nintendont can play GC games, but has anyone seen how they look?
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Sep 2, 2014 17:16
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Katana Gomai posted:No game, old or new, is worth more than 40€. I'm not sure why people are so adamant that a game can't be worth more than X amount... what about arcade cabinets? Extremely rare games with low print runs? You can have a ceiling of sanity, sure, but that isn't very I can't find a Gimmick cart only for anything below $200  Also, holy crap.
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Sep 2, 2014 17:24
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Housh posted:I'm still deciding between a Twin and AV Famicom. univbee you mentioned that the Twin is easier to maintain and repair. Could you explain a bit more? Actually the repairs were more in reference to the Famicom Disk System drive itself; as a bigger device it's easier to access certain things and there's a lower tolerance for things being out of alignment. I think the difference is pretty negligible if you're not going to be Disk System-ing though.
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Sep 2, 2014 17:25
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I've considered buying a nonfunctional Disk System just to put under my Famicom and never use.
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Sep 2, 2014 17:27
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If that's too much then just order directly from Japan.  I guess that's still a bit high. Don't worry. Sunsoft did re-release it on the PS1!  It's Super Spy Hunter on the disk that really makes it worth it. 
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Sep 2, 2014 17:34
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Cubey posted:Also let's be real: unless it's something like Steel Battalion, $200 for one single game is pretty dumb even if it's an excellent game. I have spent more than that on games I wanted to have on my bookshelf as keepsakes, I regret nothing.
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Sep 2, 2014 18:15
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xamphear posted:The Gamecube Component Cable Crisis may be coming to an end. Someone has finally cloned the chip, and they have open sourced all of it. The only drawback is that, for now, it has to be directly soldered into the system. Perhaps someone will figure out the part number for it, or find something that's close enough to fit. Awesome side effect: I think this could allow RGB out from an NTSC Wii. Could be good for RGB emulation box purposes.
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Sep 2, 2014 18:34
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univbee posted:Actually the repairs were more in reference to the Famicom Disk System drive itself; as a bigger device it's easier to access certain things and there's a lower tolerance for things being out of alignment. I think the difference is pretty negligible if you're not going to be Disk System-ing though. The FDS itself is exactly the same, the only difference is the power board which is 4 screws to remove on an actual FDS.
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Sep 2, 2014 18:37
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