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Knyteguy posted:I like this idea, but how would you hook this up to your car speakers? Would you sacrifice sound quality?
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Dec 18, 2012 01:23
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Geoj posted:Wire an amplifier directly into the car's wiring harness, and then plug the tablet into the amplifier with a 3.5mm stereo to RCA cable. Depending on how much you spend on the amp you could actually have better sound quality than with a headunit of the same price. Ah thank you. I'm probably going to hold off a bit and just go the tablet route then, it sounds pretty awesome and it's cheaper than any good HU w/ nav. quote:I would say just hook the headphone jack up to a preamp/crossover/line driver whatever to an external amp. If anything it might be cleaner than a regular deck because the source isn't on that noisy power, and you can get more than the average 2-4v and a little control out of a decent one. Sounds easy enough thanks  .Side note: does anyone have any input on these speakers: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_975B57X/HELIX-Blue-B57X.html?search=975b57x&skipvs=T ? A Crutchfield adviser suggested them when I inquired about picking a good speaker set. They're pricey, but if the quality and sound is wonderful then that's OK. Would these be a good all around speaker? My truck has a factory installed 8" sub that covers the bass enough, so I mostly need mid-high range. E: Here's the email they sent me. There's a bit of spec stuff at the top Hi [Knyteguy], Some of the best speakers we carry that will work in your pickup are the Helix Blue B57X. They not only sound great but are rated at a high 91dB in sensitivity so you get lots of volume out of them before you ever put an amp on them. Some folks find they never need to. Check them out here: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_975B57X/HELIX-Blue-B57X.html?search=975b57x&skipvs=T Fortunately, they work in both the front and back of the truck and we provide the wiring harness for free for an easy install. I've put them in a list for you to order directly from if you decide to give them a try. Let me know if you have any other questions. Nancy Crutchfield Advisor Advisors@Crutchfield.com https://www.crutchfield.com 1-800-388-2911 ext 3249 Knyteguy fucked around with this message at 04:21 on Dec 18, 2012 |
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Dec 18, 2012 04:13
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I have never heard of Helix before, and sensitivity is not something you should care about. Get some cheap Pioneers from Amazon or something if you're not going to switch to components.
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Dec 18, 2012 04:31
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Knyteguy posted:Side note: does anyone have any input on these speakers: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_975B57X/HELIX-Blue-B57X.html?search=975b57x&skipvs=T ? That category is littered with multiple price point options from Pioneer, Kenwood, Infinity, Polk audio, Alpine, Kicker, JL Audio, and Focal. I haven't been following car audio lately but I've never heard of Helix and wouldn't touch them with a ten foot pole unless they were the only manufacturer that made speakers in that size. I literally would trust any of the other 8 brands before gambling on something that probably only gives crutchfield higher profit margin. Maybe do some research and see where this company came from and if the reviews are positive. Maybe they're the hot up and comer, but somehow I doubt it. They're supposedly a Rockford subsidiary out of Germany, but still.
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Dec 18, 2012 04:58
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I guess Helix is at least one of Rockford's other brands, so they might not be that bad. But their stuff ranges from pretty bad to pretty good, and I wouldn't want to be the one to find out exactly where.
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Dec 18, 2012 05:02
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^^^ Thanks for the tips; I'll pass. Not trying to play Guinea Pig... I'll check out Focal and perhaps Infinity (wasn't sure if either company was any good) I noticed that Lowclock mentioned a component system. I actually have a component system in my truck stock (well a 5x8 and a separate tweeter per side in front, no crossover), would it be advantageous to get a component system? Over a coaxial system? From an article online: quote:Imagine that you're listening to a drum solo. Because the woofer and tweeter are mounted on the same axis, the drum set will sound correct (at least location wise). Now imagine a component set where the installer mounted the woofer in the door and the tweeter in the A-pillar (the piece between the windshield and the front door). Now it's more likely that the snare drum will appear much lower in the vehicle than the cymbal. This can be overcome by mounting the woofer and the tweeter much closer together. The higher quality coaxial speakers are actually component sets where the tweeter has been suspended over the woofer such as in many top speaker brands. Would it really be extremely noticeable that the instruments and in particular the drums are coming from separate speakers? I'm a drummer so this would be pretty important to me. I definitely want the most natural sounding setup I can get with my budget. Thanks again .E: Typo Knyteguy fucked around with this message at 06:08 on Dec 18, 2012 |
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Dec 18, 2012 06:05
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The ability to move your sound stage sounds a lot better than just keeping perfect phase with the other driver. Coaxials usually have lovely first order crossovers anyways which make them out of phase anyways. Even if you did have nice 4th order crossovers on that same speaker, you wouldn't hear the phase difference anyways. The higher the frequency is, the easier it is for the ear to detect it's directionality and location and blah blah ear stuff. Ever try to find out who's bumping their system in traffic? It can be pretty hard because bass doesn't have this effect. If you put in properly aimed tweeters though, it seems to move everything because of the opposite. If it sounds the best with the tweeter on top of the mid/woofer or someone really doesn't want to mount them, then cool, go for it. I've never heard a car that sounded best that way though.
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Dec 18, 2012 08:36
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My brother (an EE) is currently working on a tablet HU. Still in the early phases, but he has a android tablet working with light sensors, and physical buttons and knobs. His intention is to make it a fully functioning head unit, and set it up so that you dont have to use the touch screen when driving since that can be a bit of a pain in the rear end. Its slow going right now, but if your interested ill post updates when meaningful things happen.
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Dec 18, 2012 16:26
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Knyteguy posted:^^^ Thanks for the tips; I'll pass. Not trying to play Guinea Pig... I'll check out Focal and perhaps Infinity (wasn't sure if either company was any good) The only problem I have with what that article is saying is that you often don't have a choice where to mount the woofer, but that's not true with a tweeter. A tweeter will have a much larger impact on the directionality and staging of the sound, and if you could mount the woofer up high right next to it then that'd be great but you can't. So the implied advice is mount the tweeter by the woofer, which is really bad advice if it's down low in the door. My cars have a tweeter mounted high either on the dash or the top of the door, with a woofer down lower. They sound fantastic. Don't worry about trying to control speaker positioning until you're spending a ridiculous amount of money on custom gear.
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Dec 18, 2012 17:16
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As you may have followed, I own a 2012 WRX Premium with the stock stereo. I am looking at possibly replacing the entire stereo and would like your expert input. I want a better sound and a mostly stock look without losing any of my bluetooth or steering wheel mounted controls. Below is my wishlist from Crutchfield: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-I8cJoNZcnqX/app/tools/WishlistViewer.aspx Feel free to rip it apart and let me know if I should change anything and why. I know that one of the items is discontinued. Spank you all and Happy Holidays!
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Dec 18, 2012 17:45
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Lowclock posted:The ability to move your sound stage sounds a lot better than just keeping perfect phase with the other driver. Coaxials usually have lovely first order crossovers anyways which make them out of phase anyways. Even if you did have nice 4th order crossovers on that same speaker, you wouldn't hear the phase difference anyways. The higher the frequency is, the easier it is for the ear to detect it's directionality and location and blah blah ear stuff. Ever try to find out who's bumping their system in traffic? It can be pretty hard because bass doesn't have this effect. If you put in properly aimed tweeters though, it seems to move everything because of the opposite. If it sounds the best with the tweeter on top of the mid/woofer or someone really doesn't want to mount them, then cool, go for it. I've never heard a car that sounded best that way though. Thanks, I'm really a newbie when it comes to car audio. If someone doesn't mind, can you let me know how this build would end up working?  Here's a bigger version of this picture Is this setup pretty copacetic? I'm probably going to go pickup a Nexus 7 in the next few days if so. I'm still undecided/ignorant about amp/speakers and the electrical ratings of them (impedance should be the same on both? RMS on amp should roughly match speakers?) E: quote:The only problem I have with what that article is saying is that you often don't have a choice where to mount the woofer, but that's not true with a tweeter. A tweeter will have a much larger impact on the directionality and staging of the sound, and if you could mount the woofer up high right next to it then that'd be great but you can't. So the implied advice is mount the tweeter by the woofer, which is really bad advice if it's down low in the door. Awesome man thank you. The stock tweeters in my truck are mounted right below the window with the woofers right at the foot of the door so I was worried about this. Components it is then! (now I just have to convince the wife that tweeters aren't a website, and yes it will sound better) Knyteguy fucked around with this message at 18:28 on Dec 18, 2012 |
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Dec 18, 2012 18:20
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draccio posted:As you may have followed, I own a 2012 WRX Premium with the stock stereo. That link isn't working for me. I just did a replacement on my 2013 Crosstrek, which should have fairly identical install, so I can offer more detailed advice on stuff like the SWC setup if you need it.
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Dec 18, 2012 19:42
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powderific posted:That link isn't working for me. I just did a replacement on my 2013 Crosstrek, which should have fairly identical install, so I can offer more detailed advice on stuff like the SWC setup if you need it. Son of a bitch... lol Deck = Kenwood KDC-BT952HD Stereo Control = Axxess ASWC Front Speakers = Alpine SPS-610C Rear Speakers = Alpine SPS-610 Sub = Sound Ordnance B-12 Amp for Speakers = Blaupunkt THA475PnP (Discontinued) Amp for Sub = Kicker 11DX250.1 I am not partial to any of the brands I choose but having a great sounding system on a "budget" would be great. I listen to most music except for heavy rap and country.
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Dec 18, 2012 20:13
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Knyteguy posted:If someone doesn't mind, can you let me know how this build would end up working? Yeah that should sound pretty nice if it's installed well. That Three.2 throws out a ton of voltage and will be a great volume control. There's also some different DSP and EQ stuff built into some apps too. Should work great. Knyteguy posted:Is this setup pretty copacetic? I'm probably going to go pickup a Nexus 7 in the next few days if so. I'm still undecided/ignorant about amp/speakers and the electrical ratings of them (impedance should be the same on both? RMS on amp should roughly match speakers?)
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Dec 18, 2012 20:39
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I'm not particularly experienced with car audio speakers so I can't steer you much there, but I highly recommend getting the harness and ASWC from http://ae64.com/ His harness has wires for the SWC that Crutchfield's harness won't, and he'll flash the firmware to newest before shipping out. I'd also suggest getting some spacers from http://www.paranoidfabrications.com/ as it'll let you mount the speakers without drilling holes in your doors. Both of them were really great about shipping stuff out quick. This tool: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_4316_House-Brand-DUR15.html and a set of plastic panel tools from Harbor Freight were really helpful as well. Double din decks look a lot more stock to me—Crutchfield's selector thing claimed that they wouldn't fit into my vehicle but they definitely do. I'm not sure why it says that when Metra and Scosche both make adapters. The Scosche one is better since it has little wings for the stock screws. Here's what I put in mine, more as an example than something I'm necessarily recommending since I haven't been able to compare it to much: - JVC KW-R900BT headunit - JBL MS-62c speakers (haven't installed these yet, they're replacing a set I've had some issues with. Should have them installed by the end of the week or so unless it snows.) - Rockford Fosgate Prime R1L-1X12 sub - Rockford Fosgate R300-4 amp in 3 channel configuration JBL's 608c components seem like a really good deal at $98 or so from Amazon.
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Dec 18, 2012 20:42
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powderific posted:Good poo poo about stereo equipment... I swapped the deck with JVC KW-R900BT. Just hope I would not lose the audio and USB connections in my center console. I swapped the discontinued amp for Rockford Fosgate Prime R300-4 as I have owned a Rockford amp before and it was awesome. I kept my speaker choices as I do not want to spend a lot of money and would rather have a good core and swap the speakers later if warranted or wanted. Would http://ae64.com be a better choice than my Axxess ASWC choice? How do you like the JVC headunit? Would my selections work properly together?
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Dec 18, 2012 21:10
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The AE64 guy sells the Axxess and a wiring harness. The Axxess is your best option, it's just that the AE64 guy has a better harness and he'll flash the Axxess to the latest firmware before shipping out (and update later for the cost of shipping if you need it for some reason.) His prices are totally in line with amazon and whatnot too. Harnesses from Crutchfield don't come with the SWC wires, so you have to cut into your factory harness and it's a pain. Unfortunately, both of the center console ports use separate proprietary connectors. For the USB one, you can get a compatible jack that you then solder half a USB cord to it to make an adapter (you can get these from AE64 guy.) That's what I did and it works great. You definitely need to be comfortable soldering, but it's not super hard. Unfortunately, there's no off the shelf way to maintain the minijack output. You could use a multimeter to figure out what wire is what on the proprietary connector and make your own adapter, or you can run a new wire to that jack. I really like the JVC headunit so far. It has a lot of features for the price and works well with bluetooth. The only hiccup I've had is that, unlike the stock HU, Rdio doesn't pause when I turn off the car and it loses connection. It's also a little slow to connect on starting. It was on sale at sonicelectronix for $170 when I got it, so you might look around a bit for a good deal. Just a warning on the RF amp—it's huuuuge. I managed to slip it under my passenger seat without removing anything, but it's a tight fit and I scratched it up a bit in the process. If you put a little tape on the seat rails it'd probably save you from that. Obviously this isn't going to be as much of an issue if you're mounting elsewhere. I'm actually glad for the size now as it's such a tight fit I don't even need to screw it down. Short of the car being ripped in half it's not going anywhere. Should help keep it cool as well. I don't see any reason why your selections wouldn't work well together. The only other thing I'd think about was if you were running new wires to the speakers, or wanted to just use the factor wiring. I ran new wires so I'm not totally sure, but I think you can get adapters for the factory plugs if you don't want to cut into them.
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Dec 18, 2012 21:29
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I was thinking about replacing the wires if the factory ones are not up to snuff. If I were to do that, I would wire up adapters to the audio and USB connections within the center console. Keeping it looking neat and as stock as possible would be my goal. Have not been a teenager for many years and do not want things half-assed and wires everywhere.  Thanks for the input, I definitely would need help with installing everything.
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Dec 18, 2012 21:38
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Lowclock posted:What do you mean with the "2 2-channel line out converters" part? All you should have between the 4 channel amp and the 3.2 are the RCA cables, unless I'm misunderstanding you. Thanks again for your reply. The line out converters are just me thinking of a way to use the existing speaker wire, because I really would like if it I didn't have to run too much wire through the interior panels; so basically I would just be converting the existing speaker wire ends from the factory harness to RCA jacks and plugging that into the pre-amp (speaker->pre-amp), and then cutting the line or extending it somewhere to connect directly to the amp (also with RCA jacks speaker->amp->preamp). I could be/probably am totally off-base on how to add an RCA jack to speaker wire though. Would there be an easier way to do this, or would running new wire pretty much be the best solution? E: ^ pretty much the same, looking for a clean look
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Dec 18, 2012 21:48
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Knyteguy posted:me thinking of a way to use the existing speaker wire, Aren't you already using the speaker wire to drive the speakers? Something tells me you haven't thought this all the way through yet. But no, you do not want to put converters on your preamp signal just to save wiring hassle. You want RCAs from your preamp to your amp, because they are clean and compact and coaxial, so the signal is shielded and resists interference. Besides, line level converters usually step the voltage down from speaker level, not the other way around. They're not just a wiring adapter. Don't be afraid of gutting your truck. It's way easier than gutting a car. Yank the seats out and the trim should all just unsnap so you can run the wires under the edge of the carpet. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 22:24 on Dec 18, 2012 |
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Dec 18, 2012 22:21
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LloydDobler posted:Aren't you already using the speaker wire to drive the speakers? Something tells me you haven't thought this all the way through yet. Ah, yes you're right that was an unnecessary step. That will save some money then . Maybe I will just gut everything like you said (leaving factory wires of course) and run some decent gauge speaker wire to the whole setup. I have to pull the back seat to reset the outside entry lock numbers anyway.I actually just reserved a Nexus 7 16gb tablet, so I'll be picking that up today. At $199.00 I'll still be saving a ton over the head unit I was planning on getting at first, and will still be saving over a non-GPS double din unit. I just found this app for Android/iPod which will be absolutely amazing called Torque. Apparently it interfaces with the car's computer to digitally output pretty much anything you want to know. Example:  I'll be taking project photos while I'm going so if anyone is interested in how it goes let me know, and I will post them. Knyteguy fucked around with this message at 00:35 on Dec 19, 2012 |
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Dec 19, 2012 00:27
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e: beat Yeah don't do that. I don't even know what kind of car you have, but I bet you can pop the sill trim and pull the carpet back enough to run a pair of RCA cables and make them invisible a lot quicker, cheaper, and easier than hacking it up like that. RCA wires are not huge, but sometimes power wire is. There are charts out there with appropriate ratings for the different AWG sizes. Any half decent amp is going to be too much power for the little stock speaker wires, and really should be replaced.
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Dec 19, 2012 00:53
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Got my front components switched to the JBL MS-62C and it's SO MUCH better. Took me a lot longer to install than I'd expected, but I suppose that's the way it goes. Really happy with the speakers though—I'm glad I decided to just switch instead of trying to get my other set to sound nice. These are almost perfect with a flat EQ. A few tweaks and it should be golden.
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Dec 23, 2012 00:02
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Lowclock posted:e: beat Hey so real quick you think I should re-wire through all the doors and such? Local audio guy said it probably wasn't necessary but then again he might think I won't buy if it's too much work. Also does anyone have any opinions on http://www.crutchfield.com/p_2062ZXDSP1/Kicker-Front-Row.html?tp=37274 vs http://www.crutchfield.com/p_161THREEP2/AudioControl-THREE-2.html?tp=37274 Another local audio shop has the first, and I'll be buying most of my gear there anyway (90 days same as cash). They seemed to think it was pretty hot poo poo (I don't think he was trying to make a sale). The only problem is it doesn't have a volume knob. I was reading about amps that have remote output controls though via radio or something so you can mount a volume knob. Does anyone know anything more on that? Local guy also mentioned something about splitting an RCA or something to allow for a volume knob on the kicker.
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Dec 23, 2012 06:19
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Knyteguy posted:Hey so real quick you think I should re-wire through all the doors and such? Local audio guy said it probably wasn't necessary but then again he might think I won't buy if it's too much work. Knyteguy posted:The only problem is it doesn't have a volume knob.
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Dec 23, 2012 06:53
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Lowclock posted:Personally, I would re-wire to prevent hacking up any stock wiring, and to actually have some decent gauge wire. Alright thanks the help. Just trying to finalize the plan before buying stuff. I'll be going for the big install next Saturday. I'm going to attempt to mount the amplifier under the driver's seat, and mount the line driver/EQ in an open spot in the dash. Hopefully I can finish in a day 
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Dec 23, 2012 07:15
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I personally use factory speaker wiring only because I run subwoofers so I clip out the low frequencies from the cabin speakers and therefore don't really push that much current. Stock wires are more than adequate unless you're pushing stupidly high current through them. They're also wired through the door jamb in a really reliable manner, usually better than what you can do when adding new ones. Basically when you use a good aftermarket head unit wiring adapter, you can run RCAs back to the amp, then 4 pair of wires right back to the head unit area along the same path, then splice in using the adapter and never touch your factory wiring. It makes for a few extra feet of wire but unless you have some nasty interference it's fine. It's never been a problem for me and is way easier than running new wire to all 4 corners of the car.
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Dec 23, 2012 07:34
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LloydDobler posted:I personally use factory speaker wiring only because I run subwoofers so I clip out the low frequencies from the cabin speakers and therefore don't really push that much current. Stock wires are more than adequate unless you're pushing stupidly high current through them. They're also wired through the door jamb in a really reliable manner, usually better than what you can do when adding new ones. This, this, this times like 1000. You're generally not pushing more than about 15-20 watts RMS to door speakers (even when cranked to 11) unless you're running an amp for the front speakers, and 50 watts will run through the cheap factory wiring just fine. Pulling new wire through the existing channels into the doors is a pain in the rear end on an older vehicle that only had speaker wiring in the doors to begin with - and a massive loving pain in the rear end on something with power windows, locks, mirrors, personal blowjob machines, and 500 other wires going through that little sleeve. Modern cars have so much wiring that doing a clean installation that doesn't use factory wiring takes a lot of work - it's cheaper, cleaner, and more cost-effective to re-use as much factory wiring as possible. If you're sticking with single speakers in each door (or a single set of components in each), the factory wiring is more than adequate. Even if you go with a separate amp, it's a lot easier, cheaper, and faster (and just as effective) to run the output side of your amp into the existing factory speaker wiring. And to be totally honest, pushing more than about, say, 20-30 (clean) watts RMS through most car speakers... is just begging for tinnitus. Ask me how I know  I also run a sub though, and personally, I feel that you should include a sub of some sort, even if it's a small, low-powered model, if you give two shits about sound quality. Most of my radio listening is NPR, and the sub even makes a difference there; when I listen to music it's generally streamed from my phone over A2DP. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 12:44 on Dec 23, 2012 |
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Dec 23, 2012 12:27
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This might not be the place to ask but I thought I'd give it a to anyway. My door cards are hosed on my Miata, what's the best way to attatch door cards to a cars doors? Iv tried the plastic fixings but inevitably the door cards will come off in my hand when I pull them, Iv tried velcro tape as well as the tacks but that's didn't work much either. Any advice?
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Dec 23, 2012 14:02
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some texas redneck posted:and a massive loving pain in the rear end on something with power windows, locks, mirrors, personal blowjob machines, God drat, I need to get myself a new car.
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Dec 23, 2012 16:50
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JackRabbitStorm posted:God drat, I need to get myself a new car.
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Dec 24, 2012 00:00
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So I was wondering if anyone could help me out a little. I'm new to car audio, but after having blown out front speakers for a few years I decided to get a new stereo system for Christmas. For reference, my car is a 2006 Chevy Cobalt. I'm getting a pair of these speakers for the front doors and a pair of these for the rear of the car as a gift. I'm buying the head unit, and was thinking of getting this one. My main question is - do I need to get an amp to go along with this, or will the head unit by itself be enough to power the speakers decently? Also, the Crutchfield website mentions buying a Radio Integration Adapter to go along with this; what exactly is that for? Thanks!
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Dec 24, 2012 05:46
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willie_dee posted:This might not be the place to ask but I thought I'd give it a to anyway. Try buying new junkard cards and new clips from the dealer? Often that little plastic crap is fairly inexpensive even brand new. Other than that I'm not sure how they're held on in a Miata. Also worst case just run some long sheetmetal screws through them into the door. It's not like screw heads are out of place on the interior of a car. It sounds like you have hardware missing, on my Volvos they always run a screw through the panel right where the pull is, knowing that sees the most force. lighter fluid posted:So I was wondering if anyone could help me out a little. I'm new to car audio, but after having blown out front speakers for a few years I decided to get a new stereo system for Christmas. Your head unit will put decent power to those speakers, I'm satisfied enough with my Kenwood with similar rating (through similar Polk speakers) that it's been almost 4 years and I haven't bothered to install my sub or amps in my wagon. It doesn't go loud enough to be heard in the next car, but it's loud enough that you have to turn it down to have a conversation. All while remaining clean and relatively bassy. Your Chevy runs a lot of the car's noises through the audio system apparently. That adapter retains those features. Try reading the description for more detail than that. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 06:38 on Dec 24, 2012 |
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Dec 24, 2012 06:35
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Larrymer posted:Looking for a double DIN headunit for my Saabaru. Probably want something with BT that I can run Pandora from my phone, Aux in and a USB (don't care if those are on the back, might be cleaner to run wires that way). Also would be nice if it matched the green interior lighting. Any suggestions for a clean deck like this? Was looking at some Pioneer units but $300 sounds kind of steep. I'm no audiophile, so it doesn't have to be the best thing on the market. I played with a Kenwood DDX419 at Best Buy today and liked it. Any opinions on if this would be a good buy? I'm kind of annoyed that it seems most head units only work with Iphones and not Androids. (like mine  )Edit: Also, which harness should I be looking at? This review says it's the wrong one for a 2006 wrx. http://www.amazon.com/Stereo-Harnes...x+radio+harness I would just buy through crutchfield, but it's an extra $70 or so. Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 20:29 on Dec 26, 2012 |
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Dec 26, 2012 20:24
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Jvc head units actually seem to integrate better with android than iOS, so check them out. Ae64.com is where you should go for all harness related info, and he sells many of them for way reasonable prices.
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Dec 26, 2012 20:46
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Is it possible to put a head unit + front/rear speakers in a 1998 Civic for under $200? I went to Best Buy and their installation fees alone were $110, seems ridiculous. I can do this myself.
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Dec 26, 2012 20:51
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I'm thinking about swapping back in my 1991 Rx7's stock head unit. I have some tapes I wanna play, I guess. Before I try to pry the Pioneer unit out and see how the wiring was done, is there some basic bench testing I can do to see if the stock unit powers up? Here it is:   I have a couple ways I could get a 12V reference to power it up, I think. I just don't want to take the seller's word for it that it's working.
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Dec 27, 2012 23:02
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Outside of grabbing the pin outs, you will need a 12v constant and switched source, ground, and at least two speakers. The issue with the 86-91 headunits is the tuners/amps go bad all the time. It may turn on, but you won't get any sound. Plus unless someone used a kit for the Pioneer, be ready for cut wires.
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Dec 28, 2012 11:20
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Maybe it'll just be easier to fish out the Pioneer to see how bad things are? I don't have any specific tools, any tips, since you know a bit about FCs?
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Dec 28, 2012 11:51
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| # ? Apr 25, 2024 00:49 |
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I'm gonna go with an insulting reality slap and tell you that spending any money on a tape player of any kind is a loving retarded decision. IT'S 2013 ON TUESDAY DUDE. Just go buy the digital files from Amazon or itunes now that they have literally everything. Then you can play them on numerous devices made this century. If your tapes are so drat special that they don't exist anywhere except for your tapes, get a small player, patch it in to your pc, and rip the audio to digital files. Rip them as a big wav and you can fully edit and eq the sound, level the volume, and then break the tracks up. Also you will then have them at your fingertips and can back them up for all eternity. The future is now, it's great, join us.
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Dec 28, 2012 16:56
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