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boobstastegreat
Aug 9, 2004
yum


Boots cost more than tennis shoes, but they can last for decades with proper maintenance. They look better with age instead of becoming "funky" like other shoes. Fit is more important with boots, and they generally tend to run large. Good boots are made with leather. Leather is a natural fiber that requires care, but it also breathes and can sometimes be waterproof. Your boots should be fairly snug when you first get them and they will break in, loosen up, and develop a great look with time.
 
Welcome to the boot thread.
 
COOL NEW STUFF! (12/14/2012) Color #8 shell Alden Pitt Boots: http://leathersoulhawaii.com/2012/1...-pitt-boot-lsw/
(12/19/2012) Natural Chromexcel and navy suede Alden Indy Boot: http://leffot.com/2012/12/17/new-alden-restocks/
(1/11/2013) Oak Street's Trench Boot in natural or black: http://www.contextclothing.com/item.php?id=3785
(2/25/2013) Ultimate Indy Boot: http://leathersoulhawaii.com/2013/0...-indy-lsw-lsbh/
(10/15/2013) Wolverine 1000 Mile boots - Marine Field Shoe Chromexcel: http://www.selectism.com/2013/08/16...le-boot-morley/ http://horween.com/history/boondockers/

Styles
Plain toe – 1000 Mile Boot, Redwing GT Boot, White's Boots, Roy Boot

Cap Toe – Tricker's Cap Toe

Moc Toe - Alden Indy Boot, Oak Street Bootmaker

Wingtip – Alden Plaza Boot, Allen Edmonds Dalton, Trickers Wingtip

Winter boot - LL Bean, Sorel

Dress boot - Rider Boot

Hiking boot – Danner

Hunting boot - Russell Moccasin

Chukka: Carmina

Desert Boot: Clarks

Chelsea Boots: Crockett & Jones

Cowboy Boots: Don't buy these. But if you do you better ride a horse or live in Texas at least. Don't ask about them here because we don't know.
 
Leathers
Calfskin: Historically made from baby cattle. These days, “calfskin” is typically kipskin which is a younger cattle. Calfskin typically has a nicer grain and a tighter break (low amount of creasing). Highly breathable typically. If you are buying boots that are “calf skin” and they are under $300 don't bother.

Shell Cordovan: Highly coveted and very expensive. Shell cordovan is made from a 100+ year old technique from Chicago's Horween Leather Company. Special fibers from the butt of a horse are hidden under the skin and called the shell. The shell is tanned and finished over a 6-month period which produces leather with a very high luster, which results in a long lasting and beautiful boot. Often compared to calf skin, shell cordovan will not develop a break (creases in the leather) and has been made into boots and shoes that last 50 years with proper maintenance. Shell Cordovan boots start around $600.

-Pull up leathers
Chromexcel: Another leather from Horween. Chromexcel is recently popular in boots, shoes, and other leather goods. Chromexcel is rugged looking but can also be brushed to a very bright luster. Natural Chromexcel develops a very nice patina. Chromexcel has a tight break (not as tight as calf skin) but molds and stretches to your foot over time. Get a Chromexcel boot that is a snug fit to account for the stretch. Chromexcel is breathable, but prone to scratching and scuffs and tends to hold moisture more than other leathers. Chromexel is self polishing so you don't need to do much more than brush it with a horsehair brush. It is also water resistant due to the high oil and grease content in the leather, but it is not waterproof. More info here: http://horween.wordpress.com/2010/0...mexcel%C2%AE-2/

Featherstone Leather: Feather Stone is another pullup leather similar to Chromexcel. It is less popular and is only used by Redwing in their boots and shoes. It is more scratch and scuff resistant than Chromexcel.

Patent Leather: Patent leather starts like all other leather -- from the skin of an animal. The difference lies in the high amount of finish added to the surface of the leather. Many cheaper boots and shoes are made using this technique. Patent leather shouldn't scratch but will have a nasty “finish break” and overall, will look very cheap. Don't buy this garbage unless you're poor or haven given up on life.
 
Sole Materials/Variations

Vibram Lug Sole: Long lasting sole, good for winter climates, hiking, and general outdoor use. Can be comfortable but is generally one of the least comfortable soles. They can look a bit clunky.

Leather sole: Leather soles have no tread and are smooth leather attached to the bottom of the boot. 1000 mile boots have a leather sole and are  comfortable. Some leather soled boots (RRL Bowery boots) have an extremely firm leather sole and are uncomfortable – similar to wearing ski boots. If you wear leather sole boots in the snow or ice you will probably fall. A lot.

Crepe sole: Crepe soles are probably the most comfortable of all of the sole options, but do not last as long and are a poor choice for rain/snow/ice or any slick surface. 

Neoprene cork sole: Many of the Alden Indy Boots have neoprene cork soles. Neoprene cork soles will last about as long as a vibram sole and I would rate as average for comfort level. They are poor for snow or ice but, in my experience, seem fine for rain.

Commando sole: Above average for comfort, medium durability, and good for all weather. They look good too.
 
Made in the USA
Maine
 -Quoddy
 -Rancourt
 -Oak Street Bootmakers
 -Yuketen
Other U.S.A.
 -Allen Edmonds
 -Julian Boot
 -Russell Moccasin
 -Redwing
 -Alden
 -Wolverine
 -Danner
 -Dalton
 -Viberg
-White's Boots
 
Picks
Alden Indy Boot
Wolverine 1000 Mile Boot
Clarks Desert Boot
Redwing GT Boot

boobstastegreat fucked around with this message at Oct 15, 2013 around 18:19

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boobstastegreat
Aug 9, 2004
yum

FAQ
Q: How do I take care of my boots?
A: Read this http://shoes.about.com/od/shoe_care...ather_shoes.htm

Q: OK so where do I buy all of this stuff to take care of my boots?
A: Try http://www.heelingtouch.com/%A0They have every shade of shoe polish under the sun, as well shoe trees, dozens of various oils, and other products. Many boot retailers sell repair kits, which include all of the basic tools/brushes/chemicals plus a stylish leather bag to store them in.

Q: Can I use a significantly different colored polish to improve my shoe color?
A: No. This will ruin your shoes. 

Q: My shoes laces fell apart/suck
A: Here is a tutorial for improving your shoe laces. This tutorial in particular describes how to replace your plastic aglets (the ends of shoelaces) with copper or brass aglets. These look better and last much longer.
http://www.fieggen.com/shoelace/agletmetal.htm
Some shoelaces sites:
http://www.lacesforless.com/Shoelace.asp
Flat (waxed) laces are generally smarter-looking than big bulky mountaineer-style laces. Laces make a big impact on how your boots look. 

Q: Why are boots so expensive?
A: They are hand made, like upper tier dress shoes. Additionally, they require larger cuts of leather. The market for high end boots is also a smaller market, so production tends to be low.

Q: Are they worth it?
A: Sometimes. If your feet are still growing, it's hard to justify owning a pair of $500 boots that you won't wear for more than a year. The great thing about leather shoes is that they are good to wear for as long as they are in style. Classic boots are always in style and they are good to wear for many decades if treated well. Boots look better with age, tennis shoes tend to get ratty and moldy. If a boot costs five times what a tennis shoe costs, but you own it for ten times longer, then you saved money.

Q: I can't afford this poo poo...
A: eBay is a goldmine if you're willing to look for the right deal, and you can find many boots from the best cobblers on Earth on eBay from time to time. Good leather boots last a long time so buying used isn't crazy at all. Be wary of sizing though, and ask for actual measurements if you aren't sure. 

Q: What size do I order?
A: That depends. Boots tend to run a bit large. Leather shoes should also be the tiniest bit too snug when you first get them, this is because leather stretches naturally over time. Generally you will wear a full size down from your typical tennis shoe. You can generally find a local retailer that sells the same brand of shoe, so don't be afraid to try on some shoes you don't like just to see how that manufacturer sizes them. Generally if you know your size in Allen-Edwards (AE) then someone can give pointers about how everything else fits in relation.

Q: How do I know if a boot is a lemon?
A: There are a few qualities of cheap poo poo boots that will probably make your feet ache and no one will ever love you:
1. Look for a lot of unnecessary seams. Cheaper leather comes in smaller pieces so several seams will be used to hold it together. 
2. Another important thing to watch out for are thick rubber soles. Good dress boots will have a thin, sleek sole. Good general-purpose boots will have a "commando sole", which means there will be an additional rubber pieces on the bottom for traction. 
3. The sole is not only thick but projects a fair distance from the toe of the boot. You generally want this distance to be as short as possible for a sleeker, less clunky look.
4. Logos printed anywhere on the shoe
5. Leather that appears very plastic-like, which means it's low quality leather that's been treated with chemicals.

Feel free to post prospective boots in the thread and we'll tell you how ugly they are. 

boobstastegreat fucked around with this message at Dec 12, 2012 around 02:18

flyboi
Oct 13, 2005

agg stop posting


Excuse me but you can buy cowboy boots and not look like a total asshat

Ragehaver
Jul 27, 2001

"Though I often smell of excrement, I deserve your respect because I provide a valuable service."

flyboi posted:

Excuse me but you can buy cowboy boots and not look like a total asshat

Prove with pictures please.

edit: Just to add some content--

If you are new to boots and you don't know what to get, Roy Boots are basically best in class for comfort, quality and so on. Taste, well...that's up to you. Chromexcel Indy Boots are a close second, but I'm not wild on the stitching. Wolverine 1000 Mile boots are also great, if you are in a climate or season that can tolerate leather bottoms.

IMPORTANT: Be very wary of fashion boots that are $300 that you don't see listed above. They are often made out of cheap materials and overpriced for what you get. They won't compare to anything in the OP. That includes cheaper brands, such as Steve Madden, Vintage Shoe Company, etc. Expect a lovely plastic sole and crappy leather.

Speaking of which -- please add if you have any experience with "boots to avoid." Let's make a list and add it to the OP. It's always tempting to pick up a pair of Ksubi/Varvatos/etc for $90 on Gilt, but they'll be disappointing and fall apart on you if you're expecting a quality boot.

Ragehaver fucked around with this message at Dec 12, 2012 around 20:42

boobstastegreat
Aug 9, 2004
yum

flyboi posted:

Excuse me but you can buy cowboy boots and not look like a total asshat

That's fair.

I own a pair of GA Boulet's but I'm a white boy from Chicago so its rare I get to wear them.

flyboi
Oct 13, 2005

agg stop posting


Roper style cowboy boots don't have the "toe bug" that is considered standard on cowboy boots - they are almost like Chelsea boots without the retarded spandex to fit ankles too big for a size, have the same toe and heel as a Chelsea boot.

If you want to go full country on cowboy boots you can but you an also find a boot that fits exponentially better than a Chelsea boot but looks the exact same without sacrificing quality over not being a cowboy boot. I'll post pics tomorrow for proof.

OdinsBeard
Jul 12, 2003

Type 'iddqd' into the console to enable Beast Mode.


I bought a pair of Chromexcel Indy Boots (The J. Crew ones). From what I've gathered from the previous thread and the link about Chromexcel in the OP, they don't need to be polished, and regular care consists of a damp cloth and brushing. The Horween blog said they preferred Venetian Cream and Neatsfoot oil to condition Chromexcel.

Since a lot of people here seem to have these boots, I was just wondering how you all clean and condition yours. Is there a particular conditioner you like? How often should I be using conditioner? Does it change the color at all? Are the Alden Boot Creams and paste wax polishes or conditioners, the website doesn't really specify.

boobstastegreat
Aug 9, 2004
yum

I think it really depends on what condition your Indy Boots are in.

I've found the best thing for mine is to brush the dirt off of them with a horsehair brush, wipe down with a slightly damp rag, let them sit for a while(overnight), then brush again.

If you want to waterproof them you can use something like Pecards leather dressing http://www.pecard.com/mm5/merchant....Code=leathdress

The Pecards and all waterproofing conditioners will change the characteristics and make them darker. Try the brushing/damp cloth method and see if that cleans them up for you.

Othewise, Saphir Renovateur works wonders but it is expensive. http://leffot.com/shop/saphir-renovateur/

Edit: I've also had some success with saddle soap but haven't tried it on Chromexcel leather.

Casu Marzu
Oct 20, 2008

me larvae long time


For more Made in the USA boots, you might want to add Thorogood Boots and Chippewa Boots to your list. Both make decent looking work boots and are extremely easy on the wallet, too.

ephori
Sep 1, 2006


I think LL Bean Katahdins (made by Chippewa) would be a solid add for the low-end along with Clarks and such.

Jazz Marimba
Jan 4, 2012



I know they're not dress boots, but would you guys be able to recommend a pair of steel-toed work boots? I've been wearing a pair of hand-me-down men's size 10.5, but I think they've finally been worn down enough. I wear women's size 9, and would be wearing them daily in Chicago's outdoor weather conditions, so my main concerns are that they are comfortable and stay dry.

boobstastegreat
Aug 9, 2004
yum

Women's, steel toed, waterproof work boots are pretty specific. Chippewa makes a good boot. http://www.bootbarn.com/Chippewa-Women's-Waterproof-Insulated-Steel-Toe-Logger-Boots/1017797,default,pd.html

Cpaka
Jun 6, 2007



Casu Marzu posted:

For more Made in the USA boots, you might want to add Thorogood Boots and Chippewa Boots to your list. Both make decent looking work boots and are extremely easy on the wallet, too.

Duluth Trading Company carries a Katahdin-lookalike that's made in the US by Weinbrenner (Thorogood's parent company) and is reasonably inexpensive. I picked up a pair of them today and am giving them a test run, but they seem to be solidly built and very comfortable right out of the box. The sole is a little thick because it has a foam backing to the rubber tread, and coupled with the included insole makes them feel a little bouncy.

http://www.duluthtrading.com/store/...oots-39022.aspx

resident
Dec 22, 2005

Make it easy


OdinsBeard posted:

I bought a pair of Chromexcel Indy Boots (The J. Crew ones). From what I've gathered from the previous thread and the link about Chromexcel in the OP, they don't need to be polished, and regular care consists of a damp cloth and brushing. The Horween blog said they preferred Venetian Cream and Neatsfoot oil to condition Chromexcel.

Since a lot of people here seem to have these boots, I was just wondering how you all clean and condition yours. Is there a particular conditioner you like? How often should I be using conditioner? Does it change the color at all? Are the Alden Boot Creams and paste wax polishes or conditioners, the website doesn't really specify.

I think the Alden Boot Creams are closer to polish, based entirely off the fact that I was recommended a neutral polish since the local Alden retailer didn't have the Alden branded stuff in stock.

I have non-Chromexcel Indy boots and I use Obenaufs when they look dry and neutral polish when I want a dressier look. Both made mine appear a bit darker for a short period of time, but they mostly return to the original color after awhile.

Kiger_Soze
Feb 1, 2005


Just got a pair of Red Wings in the mail from Karmaloop...

http://www.karmaloop.com/product/Th...herstone/279782

On one of the boots the laces are uneven. Looks like it wasn't sewn properly. Can I get these replaced at any red wing store?

Kiger_Soze fucked around with this message at Dec 13, 2012 around 05:35

Casu Marzu
Oct 20, 2008

me larvae long time


Cpaka posted:

Duluth Trading Company carries a Katahdin-lookalike that's made in the US by Weinbrenner (Thorogood's parent company) and is reasonably inexpensive. I picked up a pair of them today and am giving them a test run, but they seem to be solidly built and very comfortable right out of the box. The sole is a little thick because it has a foam backing to the rubber tread, and coupled with the included insole makes them feel a little bouncy.

http://www.duluthtrading.com/store/...oots-39022.aspx

Oh drat, I haven't seen those before. I have a pair of their wedges and they're comfortable as all hell. I really like how those look, and it feels pretty cool supporting a factory that is like 40 miles from me.

Smudgie Buggler
Feb 27, 2005

If men were actuated by self-interest the whole human race would cooperate.


If anybody has any questions about R.M. Williams boots, I could very well be able to answer them. I own five pairs, and (also, not consequently) know their products and manufacturing processes pretty drat well. R.M. Williams use interesting and now-rare methods to make their boots, and I think the end product can go toe-to-toe with that of some of the most respected bootmakers in the world, especially in terms of value-for-money. You see people wearing these boots literally every day in this country, and I have never met a single person who doesn't love the poo poo out of their RMs.

I've also dealt with Steve at Nungar, who used to offer the [Style]Forum Special (which is, by far, the most elegant looking men's boot you can get from RMW and something I totally recommend getting over the more common Craftsman last with Goodyear welting). If you're going to order R.M. Williams boots, I recommend you use bootsonline.com.au or deal directly with RMW if you don't mind paying sticker price for maximum speed and reliability. Steve is a nice guy, but he's slow, disorganised, and prone to gently caress-ups. RMW customer service is top-notch, and reps know their poo poo.

My God. Sex.

What is the quality like on Allen Edmonds boots, seriously? There are no Australian resellers whatsoever, but if y'all say they're good and the sizing is predicable then I am not going to be able to stop myself buying these.

Smudgie Buggler fucked around with this message at Dec 13, 2012 around 08:35

No Wave
Sep 18, 2005




Smudgie Buggler posted:

I've also dealt with Steve at Nungar, who used to offer the [Style]Forum Special (which is, by far, the most elegant looking men's boot you can get from RMW and something I totally recommend getting over the more common Craftsman last with Goodyear welting). If you're going to order R.M. Williams boots, I recommend you use bootsonline.com.au or deal directly with RMW if you don't mind paying sticker price for maximum speed and reliability. Steve is a nice guy, but he's slow, disorganised, and prone to gently caress-ups. RMW customer service is top-notch, and reps know their poo poo.
Forum Specials were one of my first boots ever and they're the poo poo. Only problem was that when I got them I didn't get topy or anything and the soles eventually wore through. I took them to the RM Williams store in NYC and they put a rubber covering over the worn out sole, which is fine and all, but that sole's worn through now too and it looks pretty rough.

The reason for this is that apparently you can only replace the nailed sole IN Australia (nobody knows how/it's not worth it to offer the service in the US), and you have to send them there to do it if you live in another country.

So I don't know. Maybe I'll just wait a few years until I go to Australia. Lesson being that if you get nailed sole RM Williams, get the sturdiest covering that you can get on your soles.

Smudgie Buggler posted:

My God. Sex.

What is the quality like on Allen Edmonds boots, seriously? There are no Australian resellers whatsoever, but if y'all say they're good and the sizing is predicable then I am not going to be able to stop myself buying these.
Extremely high - by most accounts higher than Alden (I say this owning a ton of Alden and basically no Allen Edmonds, because I like Alden's styling more, generally). Allen Edmonds is probably the best buy in quality dress footwear in the world. Some of their shoes, especially the models that don't last long, have weird foibles to them in terms of fit or, for the Amok, random squeaking. But they're extremely consistent, so if there's a good model it's always good. And Dalton's one of their more beloved models, so from a quality perspective you really can't do much better anywhere near this price range.

As for sizing, I don't know, someone else will have to step up. I really don't recommend buying shoes without trying them on first, though. If you do, that Forum Special thread you posted probably has some of the most comprehensive RM Williams to Allen Edmonds size comparisons I've ever seen.





Totally aside, I do want to emphasize to anyone here who might take the plunge on shell cordovan that it's absolutely worth it. My first shell boots from Alden don't look very different after 5 years of regular wear... and I just picked up a pair of Cigar Indies, which are the most comfortable pair of shoes I've ever worn (the last it was built on was originally designed to be an orthopedic shoe). It's hard to emphasize just how convenient and versatile shell is, as well - you don't ever have to think about them, because they don't scuff very easily and you're always properly dressed for any normal occasion (I bike to work in them and I can be ready to go to any restaurant etc. any time). I can't really imagine life without them at this point.

No Wave fucked around with this message at Dec 13, 2012 around 10:57

Smudgie Buggler
Feb 27, 2005

If men were actuated by self-interest the whole human race would cooperate.


No Wave posted:

Forum Specials were one of my first boots ever and they're the poo poo. Only problem was that when I got them I didn't get topy or anything and the soles eventually wore through. I took them to the RM Williams store in NYC and they put a rubber covering over the worn out sole, which is fine and all, but that sole's worn through now too and it looks pretty rough.

The reason for this is that apparently you can only replace the nailed sole IN Australia (nobody knows how/it's not worth it to offer the service in the US), and you have to send them there to do it if you live in another country.

So I don't know. Maybe I'll just wait a few years until I go to Australia. Lesson being that if you get nailed sole RM Williams, get the sturdiest covering that you can get on your soles.
Whaaaaa? Bollocks. Any decent cobbler can replace that sole. It's an old method, but it's not totally alien to modern cobblers. I've had screwed soles replaced in Brisbane by Some Local Cobbler and it was fine.

That's shameful if they told you you have to send them to South Australia for repair. It's just a leather sole that's screwed rather than welted.

Seriously, just take them to the best cobbler you know of. Shouldn't cost more than $40.

quote:

Extremely high - by most accounts higher than Alden (I say this owning a ton of Alden and basically no Allen Edmonds, because I like Alden's styling more, generally). Allen Edmonds is probably the best buy in quality dress footwear in the world. Some of their shoes, especially the models that don't last long, have weird foibles to them in terms of fit or, for the Amok, random squeaking. But they're extremely consistent, so if there's a good model it's always good. And Dalton's one of their more beloved models, so from a quality perspective you really can't do much better anywhere near this price range.
Oh God. My poor wallet.

Just-In-Timeberlake
Aug 18, 2003

iSheep krew represent


Smudgie Buggler posted:


Oh God. My poor wallet.

I just got my first pair of AE's and my god, I will never go back to wearing lesser shoes. I find myself randomly just going into my closet to look at them, or just hold them and admire them.

I'm torn between the Dalton and the Long Branch for my next buy, what do you guys think goes better with jeans?

For reference here is the Long Branch

No Wave
Sep 18, 2005




Smudgie Buggler posted:

Whaaaaa? Bollocks. Any decent cobbler can replace that sole. It's an old method, but it's not totally alien to modern cobblers. I've had screwed soles replaced in Brisbane by Some Local Cobbler and it was fine.

That's shameful if they told you you have to send them to South Australia for repair. It's just a leather sole that's screwed rather than welted.

Seriously, just take them to the best cobbler you know of. Shouldn't cost more than $40.
I've tried a few to no luck. It's an extremely uncommon construction in the states - in fact, I don't think any shoes made here have ever used it. Googling around it appears to be something uniquely done in Australia.

But I'll put my feelers out one more time.

golgo13sf posted:

I just got my first pair of AE's and my god, I will never go back to wearing lesser shoes. I find myself randomly just going into my closet to look at them, or just hold them and admire them.

I'm torn between the Dalton and the Long Branch for my next buy, what do you guys think goes better with jeans?
Dalton, get rubber put on over the sole. The true way to boot. A boot you can wear all day and out at night anywhere.

Smudgie Buggler
Feb 27, 2005

If men were actuated by self-interest the whole human race would cooperate.


No Wave posted:

I've tried a few to no luck. It's an extremely uncommon construction in the states - in fact, I don't think any shoes made here have ever used it. Googling around it appears to be something uniquely done in Australia.

But I'll put my feelers out one more time.

Are you in New York? You said you went to the RMW store there. I'd look up prestige cobblers in NYC or LA or Chicago or whatever and see if they know what the gently caress about screwed soles. If you find one that understands what you're talking about, ship them there. It'll still be half the price of shipping it to Australia and paying RMW's absurd sole-replacement prices.

My understanding is that screwed soles used to be a very German/Austrian thing. I know RMW is one of the very few places that still uses the method, but I don't think it's uniquely Australian.

golgo13sf posted:

I'm torn between the Dalton and the Long Branch for my next buy, what do you guys think goes better with jeans?

Dalton, no question

Look

Look at this



Ohmahgerrrrrd

I need it. Why is there no AE reseller in Australia. They would be popular as hell, especially given the enormous dearth of shoes at any price-point between Florshiem and, like, Bally/Ferragamo.

Smudgie Buggler fucked around with this message at Dec 13, 2012 around 14:39

Smudgie Buggler
Feb 27, 2005

If men were actuated by self-interest the whole human race would cooperate.


quote is not edit

Just-In-Timeberlake
Aug 18, 2003

iSheep krew represent


No Wave posted:

Dalton, get rubber put on over the sole. The true way to boot. A boot you can wear all day and out at night anywhere.

When you say put rubber on, is that something done at a shoe place or do you mean what is on the AE website? They have a V-tread Tap Sole option and a Clare Rubber Sole option.

http://www.allenedmonds.com/aeonlin..._40000000001_-1

PHIZ KALIFA
Dec 21, 2011

THUNDERDOME LOSER

Hey, is Doc Marten's "for life" line any good? I have a pair of DM's that I like, but they're getting up in years and will need replacing soon. Is the warranty all that they hype it up to be?

DevNull
Apr 4, 2007

And sometimes is seen a strange spot in the sky
A human being that was given to fly



A few good places to get Alden boots.
http://leathersoulhawaii.com/
http://www.epauletshop.com/servlet/StoreFront
http://www.unionmadegoods.com/

They have special colors that you can't get directly from Alden. Such as http://www.epauletshop.com/servlet/...-Natural/Detail

No Wave
Sep 18, 2005




golgo13sf posted:

When you say put rubber on, is that something done at a shoe place or do you mean what is on the AE website? They have a V-tread Tap Sole option and a Clare Rubber Sole option.

http://www.allenedmonds.com/aeonlin..._40000000001_-1
Tap sole - you can get it done anywhere if for whatever reason you buy without. It looks like a leather soled shoe, but you don't feel the inevitable pull of entropy upon your luxury footwear with every step

DevNull posted:

A few good places to get Alden boots.
http://leathersoulhawaii.com/
http://www.epauletshop.com/servlet/StoreFront
http://www.unionmadegoods.com/

They have special colors that you can't get directly from Alden. Such as http://www.epauletshop.com/servlet/...-Natural/Detail
I will suggest that anyone buying Alden do so in-store at least once before buying online. It's not at all a big deal for Alden because they're basically never on sale so you're only eating tax - and it's absolutely worth paying an 8% premium to ensure that they fit properly. I mean, seriously, best 8% you'll ever spend. And their sizing is quite complex. I'm 9E Barrie, 9D Trubalance, and something else in Plaza.

You're right about the makeups, though. Most stores have at least a few cool things - like #8 captoe boots are all over now.

No Wave fucked around with this message at Dec 13, 2012 around 19:27

Just-In-Timeberlake
Aug 18, 2003

iSheep krew represent


Well, just ordered some Daltons.

And my Billy Reid Bond peacoat just came in, cannot loving wait to pair them.

Nestharken
Mar 23, 2006

The bird of Hermes is my name, eating my wings to make me tame.


I vote to change the thread subtitle to "It's Just Allen Edmonds In Here Too". On a related note, I just got a pair of their Eagle County boots in tan:



Since these are going to be winter/gross weather boots, I put a healthy coat of Obenauf's on them; like other beeswax-based treatments, this darkens the leather. The one on the right has been coated, but not dried or buffed yet.



Before and after:



Soooo comfortable.

Splinter
Jul 4, 2003
Cowabunga!

What's the deal with the sole on those. I see them on a lot of boots, but I don't see them mentioned in the OP. They are rubber, right? Where do they fit in the comfort/durability/traction spectrum?

Alastor_the_Stylish
Jul 25, 2006

WILL AMOUNT TO NOTHING IN LIFE.



Splinter posted:

What's the deal with the sole on those. I see them on a lot of boots, but I don't see them mentioned in the OP. They are rubber, right? Where do they fit in the comfort/durability/traction spectrum?

They're called wedge soles, and they're just a wedge of soft polymer. Many wedge soled boots have no cushioned insole because it's a bit soft on it's own. In terms of durability it's more durable than leather but less than nitrile.

Not that great in the rain and snow because it's so flat, but that makes it easier to clean, so whatever.

stupid puma
Apr 25, 2005



Yeah those soles are pretty slippery on snow and ice. I've had a couple nasty falls.

Wheeler
Nov 24, 2003



DevNull posted:

A few good places to get Alden boots.
http://leathersoulhawaii.com/
http://www.epauletshop.com/servlet/StoreFront
http://www.unionmadegoods.com/

They have special colors that you can't get directly from Alden. Such as http://www.epauletshop.com/servlet/...-Natural/Detail

My understanding is that each store puts in a specific order to Alden for boots in the sizes and styles they want. Alden fulfills the orders around 8 - 14 months from what I hear. That's why popular sellers run out quickly and have to wait for another order to come in (with cascaded orders being fulfilled one after another). That's also why each store (Leather Soul, Alden of Carmel, J Gilbert, J Crew) have their own unique styles and offerings that are generally only available through them.

DevNull
Apr 4, 2007

And sometimes is seen a strange spot in the sky
A human being that was given to fly



Wheeler posted:

My understanding is that each store puts in a specific order to Alden for boots in the sizes and styles they want. Alden fulfills the orders around 8 - 14 months from what I hear. That's why popular sellers run out quickly and have to wait for another order to come in (with cascaded orders being fulfilled one after another). That's also why each store (Leather Soul, Alden of Carmel, J Gilbert, J Crew) have their own unique styles and offerings that are generally only available through them.

I am under the impression that there are a few specials that are only made for that store as well. So Union Made had some derby shoes where the color combo was unique. I think these http://www.epauletshop.com/servlet/...-Natural/Detail are unique to Epaulet. There are other places with the chromexcel Aldens, but not for the Brixton.

Smudgie Buggler
Feb 27, 2005

If men were actuated by self-interest the whole human race would cooperate.


I got a request by PM to do a side-by-side comparison of RMW Craftsman with the Turnout ("Forum Special"), so I figured I'd just do a comparison of all the RMW boots currently in my house. I don't actually own a pair of Craftsman because I think they're ugly. But my father does, so I borrowed his. His feet are bigger than mine, and he doesn't take care of his boots. I had to polish them before I took these pictures because I'm not going to show you dudes boots with scuff marks and gouges taken out of them. Ugh.



Running left to right:

'Macquarie' (narrow-medium round toe), chestnut kangaroo leather, screwed sole, 9F
'Craftsman' (medium chisel toe), black yearling leather, welted comfort sole, 10.5G
'Turnout' (medium round toe), tanbark kangaroo leather, screwed sole, 9F
'Turnout' (medium round toe), black calf leather, screwed sole, 9F
'Yearling' (narrow-medium round toe, riding heel), black yearling leather, Goodyear welted leather sole, 9.5G







I also have a pair of comfort-soled Turnouts that are getting resoled in preparation for a holiday in Europe in Winter. My black Turnouts are also about due for some polish, and they look a bit dull next to the freshly-shined yearling Craftsman. Don't be fooled: the calf is well worth the extra $70. It's a lot nicer.

As you can see, a screwed sole is much more elegant than having a big ol' welt on your boot. At least in my opinion. I also think the Turnout last is the nicest RMW do, and it doesn't hurt that it's also the only last apart from Craftsman that you can get in any width. For instance, when I realised I'd made an oops with the sizing of my Yearlings (which I no longer wear unless I'm riding a horse, which is nearly never; also, yes, yearling is the name of a leather and Yearling is the name of the last - confusing) and wanted to get another pair in 9F, I couldn't get them. They only do them in G and E widths. I called the factory and asked why, and they said because it doesn't look right with the block heel in an F fitting. They're really particular, and if they think what you want isn't going to work, they won't do it. So I ended up with the Macquarie, which is the same toe with a normal heel.

However, the Forum Special is actually slightly more than simply a Turnout with a screwed sole. You're supposed to size up a whole number and drop two width-letters. I don't recommend this. If you're getting a screwed sole and your foot is less stumpy than like a 7H, it's going to look plenty sleek. Don't gamble with sizing, or you risk them being either unwearably tight, or too loving wide causing the arch of the boot to bag the gently caress out after a few wears. Just order true-to-size. Unless you're ordering something outlandish like ostrich or crocodile leathers in a 14D or something, RMW are most likely going to be happy to take even custom-made boots back if they're the wrong size and just wait until someone else wants whatever you ordered. RMWs run a little wide as shoes go, so I'd say if you're usually a size 10 with a regular width in American shoes, you want a 10F in RMW.

Let me know if you guys have any more questions or want any more pictures.

Smudgie Buggler fucked around with this message at Dec 14, 2012 around 12:01

Smudgie Buggler
Feb 27, 2005

If men were actuated by self-interest the whole human race would cooperate.


What the gently caress is it with me and double-posting?

Smudgie Buggler fucked around with this message at Dec 14, 2012 around 12:01

concerned parent of three
Jun 10, 2002


PSA - Bean boots are 30% off today and free $10 GC with order over $50.

concerned parent of three fucked around with this message at Dec 14, 2012 around 14:31

Mandalay
Mar 16, 2007

WoW Forums Refugee

Does anyone buy boot trees? I feel like my standard shoe trees aren't quite up to the task of boot-shaping. http://www.zappos.com/woodlore-boot...b3-001b2166becc

golgo13sf posted:

For reference here is the Long Branch



I own this and really appreciate the fit and versatility. Less sleek than the Dalton, for sure, but it's a boot I can gently caress off to some random Asian country (or the Mission) and feel like I don't have to baby the soles.

The Dalton looks better but is less functional even with tap soles IMO

Mandalay
Mar 16, 2007

WoW Forums Refugee

concerned parent of three posted:

PSA - Bean boots are 30% off today and free $10 GC with order over $50.

Doesn't seem to include katahdin engineer boots

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Tigren
Oct 3, 2003


Mandalay posted:

Doesn't seem to include katahdin engineer boots

Bean Boots, literally. Not boots sold by LL Bean.

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