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dex_sda
Oct 11, 2012


gently caress yeah I got the first pitch done and got halfway through the second (which is somewhat easier).

crux pitches are gonna be a hoot, though...

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Amniotic
Jan 23, 2008

Dignity and an empty sack is worth the sack.

M. Night Skymall posted:

The easiest moonboard climb is best described as very hard, but the kilter and grasshopper can be adjusted to be fairly beginner friendly. Even then I have a hard time getting any of my beginner friends on them, gym climbs are usually more fun. Good for you for you getting into it though, I recently had to listen to a bunch of parents scream at my daughter's coaches about safety while simultaneously being unable to come up with the word for "belay" and I really wish other parents would take a more healthy interest in their kid's hobbies...

I'd love to start board climbing, but all my gym has is a 45 degree fixed angle tension board with extra greasy wooden holds. I can climb v4 in the gym and I can't even get on a v0 on the board to establish the start.

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UqwSahByqfQ

Some pretty amazing footage

Baddog
May 12, 2001


Trip out to Mt Lemmon for spring break.

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106743587/demolition-derby

grenada
Apr 20, 2013
Relax.

Some cool shots but Alex H. comes off very poorly in this (and I'm sure all of the worst parts were edited out).

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

Yea, definitely lots of cool footage.

But the guy being like, "Dude I'm just sitting down here dodging rocks" and Hazel going, "I do appreciate his friendship, but he is hard to love" made me feel bad for them.

Freaquency
May 10, 2007

"Yes I can hear you, I don't have ear cancer!"

Interesting, I watched it when it came out and thought that they played up the interpersonal drama a bit for the cameras. Honnold is still very clearly a driven, focused person, but it feels like he’s mellowed out quite a bit since the Free Solo days.

hot cocoa on the couch
Dec 8, 2009

any multipitch enjoyers prefer to self lower or rap on a grigri instead of an atc?

ploots
Mar 19, 2010

hot cocoa on the couch posted:

any multipitch enjoyers prefer to self lower or rap on a grigri instead of an atc?

For the middle person in a party of 3

gohuskies
Oct 23, 2010

I spend a lot of time making posts to justify why I'm not a self centered shithead that just wants to act like COVID isn't a thing.

hot cocoa on the couch posted:

any multipitch enjoyers prefer to self lower or rap on a grigri instead of an atc?

Follower belays the leader on a gri-gri, leader belays the follower on an atc in guide mode, when you switch leaders you switch devices, that way everyone's getting an assisted belay. Then for rappel, you stack devices with the atc on top so the rope doesn't pull through, first person down descends on gri-gri single strand rappel, second person down descends on atc rappel on both strands.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

ATC in guide mode sucks though. So much better using a grigri. Slapping an ATC in the back of your harness for the rap is no big deal. You can also do a biner block single stand rap if you want.

alnilam
Nov 10, 2009

spwrozek posted:

ATC in guide mode sucks though. So much better using a grigri. Slapping an ATC in the back of your harness for the rap is no big deal. You can also do a biner block single stand rap if you want.

This is how I feel - when i first started learning to top belay off an anchor it was like, here's this complicated process on lowering off of guide mode, you may never do it but you need to know how... or you can just use a grigri.

e: If i were climbing a huge multipitch with a full trad rack and counting every gram, i might feel differently.

alnilam fucked around with this message at 17:31 on Apr 7, 2024

ploots
Mar 19, 2010
If I were out all day on a long multipitch route I’d value the east feed and convenience of a grigri even more.

Slimy Hog
Apr 22, 2008

alnilam posted:

If i were... counting every gram, i might feel differently.

How often are we really doing this? Maybe I'm not as hard as other folks but I'm not climbing at a level where a few grams or even a pound will limit me

alnilam
Nov 10, 2009

Slimy Hog posted:

How often are we really doing this? Maybe I'm not as hard as other folks but I'm not climbing at a level where a few grams or even a pound will limit me

That's what I'm saying, i don't care at all, but i also don't do massive multipitch trad stuff and I could forgive those people for wanting to shed unnecessary equipment

Slimy Hog
Apr 22, 2008

alnilam posted:

That's what I'm saying, i don't care at all, but i also don't do massive multipitch trad stuff and I could forgive those people for wanting to shed unnecessary equipment

I DO do multipitch trad stuff but never at a limit where a pound will prevent the send.


That being said I've never climbed harder than 5.9 trad in eldo 🤷

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

Do you guys ever keep like a "log" or anything of how different shoe brand/models fit you? Like I assume a 41 in some flat Beginner shoes aren't the same as a 41 in something super aggressively shaped from the same brand.

I don't love my current daily shoes, but it's so frustrating trying to get a pair that fits. My only local store has a pretty limited selection, and the nearest REI [80 minutes away] also doesn't have a great selection. Previously I bought 3 different sizes and shipped the other 2 back, which I don't really want to make a habit of while searching for a pair I really like.

ploots
Mar 19, 2010
Yeah I keep a note with lists of shoes that fit well and shoes that didn't fit well, including the size and a short note like "stiff", "baggy heel". sizesquirrel can give you a starting point for translating one model or brand to another, but "solution 41 is oracle 9.5" doesn't tell you anything about the shape of the last, stiffness, or fit.

Xyven
Jun 4, 2005

Check to induce a ban

I've just been buying the same shoes for over a decade now. Once you find something that fits might as well stick with it.

If you're trying to find the right shoes, look around for gyms doing shoe demos

alnilam
Nov 10, 2009

Xyven posted:

I've just been buying the same shoes for over a decade now. Once you find something that fits might as well stick with it.

If you're trying to find the right shoes, look around for gyms doing shoe demos

This has been me. I hit such a good mark with the Muiras that I can't bring myself to mess with success, especially at 150+ a pop. I cycle between two pairs of Muiras as each gets resoled and when one kicks the bucket for good, I will probably buy more Muiras.

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

The trick is to buy 2 more pairs of whatever you like, because if you don't they'll discontinue them.

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KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs

Xyven posted:

I've just been buying the same shoes for over a decade now. Once you find something that fits might as well stick with it.

If you're trying to find the right shoes, look around for gyms doing shoe demos

Yeah same. I just buy Scarpa instincts. They feel like they used my foot as the mold.

I'll try another shoe every year or so to see if I want soft comp shoes and turns out I don't. But I'll try again whenever I get some extra random cash

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