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K918 posted:But literally why, if you are belaying from directly under your climber you're doing it wrong. I always wear my belay glasses in the gym even when top roping. Why would you subject your neck to abuse when you can avoid it.
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Jan 29, 2024 03:41
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Sab669 posted:The only pain I get [in my feet] is in the bone/joint for my big toe Just curious if you have any running theories for what's causing the pain? I have the same thing on my right big toe. Feels stiff at the joint and hurts a bit to curl it. I just noticed that it is crooked and pointing towards my second toe. Has me wondering if toe spacers and a ton of stretching is the answer, or if maybe I jammed the poo poo out of it months ago and never noticed.
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Jan 29, 2024 21:20
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I just assumed I'm a decrepit old man. Found out a few months ago that I at least have arthritis in my hands, although I don't know about anywhere else.
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Jan 29, 2024 21:45
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The almighty algorithm recommended an older Dave MacLeod titled "Why I don't use the inside flag" and it made me realize I don't think I have ever done one in my ~4-5 years of climbing  Do you guys like them?
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Feb 7, 2024 22:19
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It feels incredible the one time a year I can find one
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Feb 7, 2024 22:22
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Sab669 posted:The almighty algorithm recommended an older Dave MacLeod titled "Why I don't use the inside flag" and it made me realize I don't think I have ever done one in my ~4-5 years of climbing I mainly use them when it saves a foot swap to match a final hold on slabby/vertical stuff relatively often , which is every couple months if I had to guess. A lot more if you count the not particularly useful ones on easier grades that I do for fun. On steeper stuff I also sometimes find some on the kilter board, but they rarely feel necessary.
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Feb 7, 2024 22:32
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Yea his main argument against them was like, "I'd rather just swap feet" which I'd say is also how I generally climb too.
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Feb 7, 2024 22:57
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Yeah I never inside flag and assumed I was just climbing wrong/poorly (I am climbing wrong/poorly but that’s not why probably)
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Feb 7, 2024 23:48
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I don't use them a lot but I personally hate the attitude he espouses. "I've never trained them so I don't like them" is something I hear a bunch of my novice / mid-level climbing friends say and to hear an "influencer" support that is annoying. In every other sport I do (skating, yoga, snow sports) it's understood that the first few (hundred) times you try a new move it's going to be difficult, feel awkward, and potentially not even work. By practicing you gain the muscle memory and fluidity to execute the move properly and gain the advantage of a broader movement vocabulary. Sure, inside flags are not a super common move. But climbing for whatever reason seems to be super behind when it comes to even basic sports knowledge. I have to roll my eyes at the guys at my gym who confidently state that they "don't need" heel hooks, flags, or other slightly more advanced moves than "grab & pull hard". On some of my warmup laps I'll play games where I try to flag every move, or drop knee every move, or heel hook as many holds as I can. It's not efficient and I usually have to downgrade at least a grade or two to make it up the route. But now I have the muscle memory and I find these moves where others don't, and can climb harder as a result. What a concept. edit: inside flagging in particular is a fun one to try to do on every move b/c if you can find a good, slightly overhung route the moves flow together gorgeously. It's a wonderful feeling. It also helps your outside edging skills which are very useful outside of flagging. vonnegutt fucked around with this message at 16:28 on Feb 8, 2024 |
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Feb 8, 2024 16:25
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Poor Dave Macleod, reduced to "influencer" status. I remember when that video came out there was a weird flood of influencers doing videos about how we're all not inside flagging enough, which is probably not true. I'm not saying it's worthless, but it's up there with the figure four on rock or heel hooking over your head for "once in a while it's better." Personally I usually just regret inside flagging, even if it makes the move feel better in the moment, unless I'm able to complete it by stepping through because the position I'm in afterwards is always awkward and I end up doing the foot switch I avoided, but in a worse position.
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Feb 8, 2024 17:33
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M. Night Skymall posted:Poor Dave Macleod, reduced to "influencer" status. I really like his book but his video content lately has definitely been "cantankerous old timer REACTS to modern trends".
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Feb 8, 2024 17:42
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Can’t remember a single instance seeing me or someone else inside flag in the gym or outside in 10 years of climbing
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Feb 9, 2024 15:42
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I think the only times I might inside flag are on overhung routes where I might also be inclined to drop a knee. (Basically the only functional difference I can think of is that it helps keep the corresponding shoulder in closer to the wall.) Even then though I'm much more likely to switch feet. I'll have to pay attention and see but who knows when I might actually do it.
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Feb 9, 2024 15:51
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When an inside flag works it works amazingly well. Do you need to use them? Rarely. But when you use one instead of swapping feet and cut out a couple moves from your beta, it feels so good.
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Feb 9, 2024 16:03
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i got out today and climbed on REAL ROCK in ontario on feb 10th!!! global warming ftw
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Feb 11, 2024 00:47
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I very nearly did the same, but the weather was calling for rain in Niagara Falls so I decided not to 
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Feb 11, 2024 00:56
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this was rattlesnake up in halton region. almost totally dry, very little mud or water seeping from rock. and yeah, tshirts almost all day. really amazing
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Feb 11, 2024 00:57
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I've been wanting to make a trip up to Rattlesnake, it's basically like the only sport climbing near me [just over the border in NY, US] but idk it's hard to get anyone to agree to go so I mostly just boulder at the Glen
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Feb 11, 2024 01:52
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Sab669 posted:I've been wanting to make a trip up to Rattlesnake, it's basically like the only sport climbing near me [just over the border in NY, US] but idk it's hard to get anyone to agree to go hmu via pm if you're thinking about making a trip and i'll let you know if i can link up with you. extra+ bonus if you have gear. mount nemo and bottleglass are good and nearby too. the turtle rules but its hard to get in because of the reservation system. mount kelso is good ive heard too but mostly trad so i haven't been
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Feb 11, 2024 02:43
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So I've been on a quest to find the best way to remove smell from my shoes. I resole my shoes multiple time and at some point got one pair to smell horrible and like an idiot I switched shoes mid session and managed to get 2-3 pairs infected. It got so bad that I was considering throwing the shoes in the trash. I'm a lazy guy so I'm on a quest to find the best and easiest method. I first tried spraying ungodly amount of Lysol in a pair. Results : shoe still smelled Then tried throwing a pair in the washing machine. Result : really nice looking shoe with really sticky rubber that still smelled just as bad. Then I tried soaking in pure vinegar for 1 hour and then throwing them in the washing machine. Result : foot smell is completely gone, but the lingering vinegar smell (even after multiple session) is not perfect. Currently trying : denture cleaning tablets. Hopefully shoes will end up smelling minty fresh, but results will only be known tomorrow. Anyone has good success stories? I usually manage to avoid the smell getting in the shoes with regular Lysol spray and airing them out, but since my shoes get resoled multiple times, they sometime get stinky
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Feb 11, 2024 22:11
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KingColliwog posted:So I've been on a quest to find the best way to remove smell from my shoes. I resole my shoes multiple time and at some point got one pair to smell horrible and like an idiot I switched shoes mid session and managed to get 2-3 pairs infected. It got so bad that I was considering throwing the shoes in the trash. Do you climb in evolv or other synthetic leather shoes? If so, they're going to smell. Period. There is no hope.
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Feb 11, 2024 22:19
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armorer posted:Do you climb in evolv or other synthetic leather shoes? If so, they're going to smell. Period. There is no hope. Scarpa instinct 90% of the time. I usually keep my shoes with reasonable smell for at least 1 resole. Last batch got vile like I explained. It was "I can't take them off during the session at all" level of smell. After the vinegar treatment they are as good as new.
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Feb 11, 2024 22:30
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KingColliwog posted:Currently trying : denture cleaning tablets. Hopefully shoes will end up smelling minty fresh, but results will only be known tomorrow. This is what I do, you have to soak it for..a while, not like 15 minutes or whatever the instructions say, and you have to use several tablets, but it does work, and the minty freshness doesn't last too long. I typically soak in denture cleaner and then wash in a washing machine or just soak in laundry detergent and hand brush. It also just depends on how deeply set it in the funk is, sometimes it takes a few tries.
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Feb 11, 2024 22:39
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KingColliwog posted:Scarpa instinct 90% of the time. I usually keep my shoes with reasonable smell for at least 1 resole. Last batch got vile like I explained. It was "I can't take them off during the session at all" level of smell. After the vinegar treatment they are as good as new. Yeah Scarpa Instinct are synthetic. Synthetic climbing shoes stink like hell. One thing that might (no promises) help some is storing them 100% of the time with a shoe deodorizer packet in them, one of the charcoal ones.
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Feb 11, 2024 22:40
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My kid made nationals in bouldering! Super psyched. Has a shot at ropes too this year, we'll see how that goes.
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Feb 11, 2024 22:50
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Baddog posted:My kid made nationals in bouldering! Super psyched. Has a shot at ropes too this year, we'll see how that goes. Badass
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Feb 11, 2024 22:55
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Honestly this winter I’ve been climbing in thin socks because the gym was cold and it’s fine and seems to be keeping my evolvs not very stinky but on the other hand I probably look really uncool.Baddog posted:My kid made nationals in bouldering! Super psyched. Has a shot at ropes too this year, we'll see how that goes. Owns.
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Feb 11, 2024 23:49
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One of my climbing partners wears socks while crushing 5.13s Hard to say whether it cancels out the uncool factor. Might need to hit 5.14 to break even
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Feb 12, 2024 00:12
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Baddog posted:My kid made nationals in bouldering! Super psyched. Has a shot at ropes too this year, we'll see how that goes. hell yeah
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Feb 12, 2024 00:13
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Baddog posted:My kid made nationals in bouldering! Super psyched. Has a shot at ropes too this year, we'll see how that goes. Oh wow, that’s amazing!
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Feb 12, 2024 14:54
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hot cocoa on the couch posted:
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Feb 12, 2024 15:06
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I've been ice climbing 2x and each time I wake up with soreness in my groin, centered on my inner-thigh/hip area. Anyone has anyone else experienced this? It doesn't happen rock climbing Last time the pain got really bad later in the day, but today it's just sore.
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Mar 4, 2024 18:41
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I've only ice climbed once ever, but I'm guessing it's from the motion of kicking crampons into the ice and/or pulling them back out again. You don't really kick the wall when you're rock climbing.
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Mar 4, 2024 18:51
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Slimy Hog posted:I've been ice climbing 2x and each time I wake up with soreness in my groin, centered on my inner-thigh/hip area. Anyone has anyone else experienced this? It doesn't happen rock climbing Sounds like you need to do more Copenhagen planks
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Mar 4, 2024 20:14
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More / less fuckin'
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Mar 4, 2024 20:29
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ante posted:More / less fuckin' This is the advice I'm gonna take. Thanks everyone!
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Mar 4, 2024 20:45
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Slimy Hog posted:This is the advice I'm gonna take. Thanks everyone! User name checks out
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Mar 4, 2024 22:06
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Can anyone describe why a tweaked rotator cuff feels like? I get light pain and a slightly reduced range of motion in my right shoulder. Follow up: what can I do to make this feel better? I’ve been working with bands and also low weight military press. Oddly enough I think I tweaked it disc golfing
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Mar 11, 2024 19:10
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Mezzanon posted:Can anyone describe why a tweaked rotator cuff feels like? I get light pain and a slightly reduced range of motion in my right shoulder. I hurt my shoulder relatively badly while mantling poorly awhile back. I got pain in certain positions, decently reduced range of motion, and it would hurt if I ever slept on that shoulder. It seems like yours is probably more chill than that, so I'm not sure if this is actually relevant. FWIW I found this to be very treatable by PT. The only routine I have saved with the actual names is from when I first got the injury, but then I did standing shoulder flexion wall slides and the standing shoulder posterior capsule stretch. This was mostly from when it was at its worse. Everything below here I am not sure if it will be helpful, but here is my attempt to describe what I was told to do: Then I worked my way up to a bunch of stuff with bands -- especially like starting with both hands straight out in front of me with a band between, and then pulling them out into like a fly. Or to do one where you start out with arms forward and out a bit, and then rotate your arms all the way up over your head and behind you, then all the way forward again, and repeat. I am sorry these descriptions are bad - I'm not sure exactly what the word is for it, but the idea was to sort of activate my shoulders/back before climbing in particular. I also did low weight military press. Even once the pain went away, my range of motion was smaller, especially reaching the injured arm behind my back. Instead of being able to get up to my shoulder blade it would stop somewhere around like the small of my back. To fix this I would gently stretch it by using a towel or band to be able to kind of pull it upwards with my other hand. To long term improve mobility I found the stuff this trainer did incredibly helpful- she would run workshops at my climbing gym specifically on joint strengthening/health for climbing: https://www.nhandiimanfitness.com/mobility-training-1. I realize the chances you live near her specifically are low (tho she also does online I think), but I think that the keyword for her type of training is functional range conditioning: https://functionalanatomyseminars.com/frs-system/functional-range-conditioning/. The URL makes it look sort of gimmicky, but I really liked at least her version of it. The idea is working on mobility, but also strength at the very edge of your mobile range, which felt very applicable to climbing. Doing her workouts regularly really made my shoulders feel so much more safe/strong long term when doing sketchy stuff. e: Also lots of shoulder CARS: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GvPBEieIsWw tildes fucked around with this message at 21:58 on Mar 12, 2024 |
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Mar 11, 2024 19:52
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Incredible info, thank you so much!
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Mar 11, 2024 21:05
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