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Are you anticipating having to take the motor back out? Why not bolt the transmission and all the sensors back in place at one time? I may have missed you commenting on this, if so my apologies.
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Mar 25, 2013 19:00
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I really wanted to start it to make sure everything was cool before I finished bolting everything back on. That way if I had to tear it down again at least I'd already have the transmission and most of the accessories out. At this point though I'm leaning more and more towards finishing the assembly before I diagnose. Just gotta look real hard and make sure everything is where it should be under that intake manifold. The alternator/tensioner/water pump/AC compressor part is my least favorite part.
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Mar 25, 2013 19:41
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So I'm assuming the flywheel is on there now? It's just I never saw you say it explicitly.
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Mar 25, 2013 21:14
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Haha yeah it's on there. I put it and the exhaust manifold on beforehand and never really documented it.
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Mar 25, 2013 21:18
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Dumb question, is the crank sensor on that engine mounted to the bellhousing or the engine block? I ask because on the engines I'm used to, it's on the bellhousing, so if you plug it in and try to test fire without the trans installed, you're going nowhere.
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Mar 26, 2013 19:15
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Right behind the harmonic balancer, unfortunately.
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Mar 26, 2013 20:59
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Okay, so people have had similar problems before. I've got a couple leads I'll be looking into before I just say gently caress it and bolt everything back on then deal with it. Apparently: When installing the cams it's pretty easy to misalign them by one tooth. This causes a no spark and maybe no fuel A certain fuse likes to blow when doing rebuilds (grounding issues maybe? I have no idea) that causes no fuel no spark The aftermarket security system may be to blame. I hope to god it's not this one Finally, the immobilizer will allow cranking but cut fuel and spark. It may be as easy as putting the key in the ignition then pressing the unlock button. I'll check all of these next time I find my way out there.
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Mar 27, 2013 14:27
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Mostly worked on the Civic today, but I poked around a little bit. I popped off the valve cover and aligned the timing marks and found this:   I'm no expert but it looks like my main timing chain may be off 1 tooth. Anyone wanna weigh in?
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Mar 30, 2013 23:06
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Anyone? This constitutes pulling the timing cover so I'd rather be sure about it. I consider an awful forum consensus enough.
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Mar 31, 2013 23:59
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I got no clue, but I did read. Sorry. 
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Apr 1, 2013 00:14
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Here's the diagrams from the manual, for reference. My concern is with the harmonic balancer marks not lining up with the big arrow on the cover. Is that amount of play okay or is that off a tooth?  I've read online that if one piece is off one tooth neither spark nor fuel will run.
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Apr 1, 2013 02:29
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As close as it is to the mark, it doesn't look like it could be off an entire tooth. I'd slap a caliper on there, measure the distance between the mark and the arrow. If it's less than the distance between teeth, I'd think you were good to go. You don't want to pull the cover off, but the teeth on the cam gear should be the same distance, so just measure there for a comparison.
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Apr 1, 2013 03:34
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Upon looking at the diagram and looking at the picture, I think you're all right. I am not responsible for you grenading your motor. Turn it over with the wrench a bunch.
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Apr 1, 2013 03:41
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Beach Bum posted:Upon looking at the diagram and looking at the picture, I think you're all right. He's been cranking it, and its not getting spark. If there was gonna be carnage, it'd be done by now. OP, I'm gonna definitely agree with you, it looks a tooth off to me on the crank marks.
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Apr 1, 2013 03:44
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Oh, I thought he'd taken the Civic motor apart or something. I didn't realize that was the s2k motor.
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Apr 1, 2013 03:47
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Looks dead nuts on to me. Try lining up the crank mark perfectly (rotating running direction only) and then see how much the cams are off, considering they're geared down 2:1 they'll still probably look right. Like poisonlizard said, they have to be either on right or a full tooth off, it's not possible to be off just a teeny bit, which is reassuring.
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Apr 1, 2013 05:37
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Arrgh alright I'm gonna keep assembling, and probably put everything back on but the airbox/filter/intake. Then if it still doesn't want to start I'm going to grab the electrical diagnostics book and see what causes no spark/no fuel/both after verifying the no spark with an in-line test light and the no fuel with noid lights and a fuel pressure test. All that extra poo poo still won't get in the way of the timing cover if I need to pull it. In other news the civic got a much needed oil pan gasket and brake master cylinder this weekend. Also I'm getting transferred to a more technical engineering job for the same lovely pay and getting some hits on different, much better paying jobs! Spring time best time.
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Apr 1, 2013 23:31
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Dicked around with it for an hour or so tonight. I verified no spark and no fuel. I have fuel pressure, but no pulse to the injectors (finally got to use those noid lights). I checked every fuse with a test light and they're all good. I'll check the pulse from the cam/crank sensors next but after that all signs point to timing or security. Probably finishing the bolt-ons this weekend then happy fun time diagnostics.
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Apr 4, 2013 02:12
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Girlfriend's out of town this weekend... you know what that means! Whole day tomorrow reserved for car work, after I nurse off the hangover.
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Apr 5, 2013 17:17
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Adiabatic posted:Girlfriend's out of town this weekend... you know what that means! Whole day tomorrow reserved for car work, after I nurse off the hangover. Looking to be a good weekend for work, I'm hoping to get my E30 going again.
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Apr 12, 2013 02:02
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BTW are we still talking RVA shop space up in this? cause... http://richmond.craigslist.org/off/3733981588.html
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Apr 12, 2013 02:03
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Adiabatic posted:Dicked around with it for an hour or so tonight. I verified no spark and no fuel. I have fuel pressure, but no pulse to the injectors (finally got to use those noid lights). I checked every fuse with a test light and they're all good. Without an ignition signal, the ECU won't know to fire the injectors. Your problem is crank sensor or its connection to the ECU.
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Apr 12, 2013 02:10
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Moxie Omen posted:BTW are we still talking RVA shop space up in this? cause... That is tempting.
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Apr 12, 2013 02:35
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drat... I take that exit off 95 on my way back from work every day. So convenient. So tempting. AI GoonShop?
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Apr 12, 2013 04:54
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That IS a hell of a price for a shop with all the goods. Goddamn.
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Apr 12, 2013 05:22
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How did the weekend of car work go? Still stuck?
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Apr 12, 2013 11:08
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Jut posted:How did the weekend of car work go? Still stuck? Found out my grandpa is dying. It was expected but it's put a wrench in plans for a bit.
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Apr 12, 2013 13:24
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Adiabatic posted:Found out my grandpa is dying. It was expected but it's put a wrench in plans for a bit.  sorry to hear that man...best wishes and all.
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Apr 12, 2013 14:10
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Gramps pulled through, told me to stop being a pussy and get my car fixed. Going to stop being a pussy and get my car fixed. Stand by for updates.
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Apr 16, 2013 13:29
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Hell yeah, best grandpa. I'm glad he pulled through, make sure you spend as much time with him as possible while you still can.
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Apr 16, 2013 13:50
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Adiabatic posted:Gramps pulled through, told me to stop being a pussy and get my car fixed.   "If you don't fix that drat FERRIN CAR of yours before I die I am going to die a shamed man and haunt you forever because my grandson can't even fix some drat SIMPLE FERRIN CAR MOTOR"
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Apr 16, 2013 14:19
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I like to imagine he clawed himself back from the precipice of death because of the shame.
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Apr 16, 2013 15:57
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Fix the car, take him to the track in it.
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Apr 16, 2013 18:44
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IT RUNS AND I AM A COLOSSAL IDIOT Anyone see anything wrong with this picture?  The ground wire on the back of the head was disconnected.  Fixed that, hit the starter, noid light flashed, about peed myself, and ran over to connect it back. It fired up in less than a crank and there's no horrible noise coming from the engine!!! SO EXCITED. Gonna do a celebratory transmission bench press then all I have to do is connect all the accessory poo poo back and we're DONE.
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Apr 21, 2013 19:00
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Congrats!
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Apr 21, 2013 19:07
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Here's the update from yesterday. Major points: IT RUNSTRANS IS INPretty flywheel, about to put the clutch on:  Sizing up the space I had for the transmission (The engine is dropped about 3 inches in this picture):  Previously posted picture where I realized I was a dumb and left the ground connection on the rear of the head unbolted: Fixed:  At this point I took some spergy video of me hooping and hollering with the engine running, then started under-intake work while I waited for my buddy to come help with the transmission install. Water pump:  A/C Compressor: I may or may not have had to take the water pump back off to get it down there  Of course I can't find a simple hose clamp, so this is where the under-hood area was left off yesterday:  Back to the transmission:     After much cussing and facepalming, with no pictures to show from it, we were able to secure all 8 bolts on the bellhousing. We also reconnected the driveshaft, shifter, and trans mount:  So now I just need to re-route those wires, get a hose clamp, and reinstall the alternator, exhaust, couple brackets, lower rad hose, tensioner, and belt. One more day's work and this project will be done!
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Apr 22, 2013 14:11
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It's awesome that you got it running! Thank goodness it was just a ground wire.
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Apr 22, 2013 17:53
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Headed back to see if I can get her driving tonight. Stay tuned.
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Apr 22, 2013 21:04
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So it drives, but I'm in limp mode. It won't go above 3k rpm and it has P1362 which is related to the timing apparently. I really think it goes back to that being 1 tooth off deal. Good news is I drove it 20 miles and there are absolutely no bad noises. Not out of the woods yet but boy do I see the exit.
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Apr 23, 2013 02:12
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The true test is to see if pieces shoot out of the engine when you hit 9000rpm. That's where adhering to those torque specs pays off.
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Apr 23, 2013 05:26
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